Hi everyone I have a 06 ZX 14 with 9k on it. I just started the bike to go for a ride and suddenly the motor started making a strange sound like something broke and started knocking and just died. I tried to start the bike again and I could hear the starter motor click but the motor wont turn. Does anyone know what the issue could be?

How has the bike been ridden? Hard? The noise could be anything. I'd pull the spark plugs and look at the electrodes first. A beaten electrode will tell you that something, perhaps a broken valve, got into the head. If they all look good see if you can manually turn the motor over. If it's still stuck you need to get a borescope or start thinking about tearing down the head for starters.

Mad

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G'Day Baconboy, I sure hope that what happened to you isn't the same as what happened to me but it doesn't sound good as it certainly sounds very similar.
Read the below and good luck with it all...

It will never happen to me

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Probably rod seized on the crank = No starter moving the crank as if welded the rod to the crank. Too bad it wasn't a 2012 or later. I have a perfect engine.

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There have been Gen1 14s that have had connecting rod bearings break and I have heard of a couple Gen2s that did it too. Although Kawasaki never admitted it was a problem, talk on the threads was that one side of the crankshaft didn't get adequate lubrication. I think it was the LH side. They usually let loose at high rpm but I recall one report of it happening at idle. It seemed to happen before a lot of miles were put on the engine but I would call anything under 10k low miles even though it's a 12 year old bike. Whatever it was, you're lucky you weren't riding when it happened. Hayabusas can suffer from the same defect, I hear. I hope it's fixable but if not, I wouldn't hesitate to get another, especially a Gen2.

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Rook, think this out...

"..., talk on the threads was that one side of the crankshaft didn't get adequate lubrication."

Say a couple of hundred to a thousand are crated and shipped. No recall notice. No design flaw because of inadequate lube/pressure/etc. I don't buy it with the other 999 bottles of beer on the wall 999 beers, ship pit around, 1/4 mile it around, 998 bottles of beer on the wall...

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the Kawi bike owner's manual usually recommends not to let the bike idle for too long... there could be a reason for that

I don't buy it with the other 999 bottles of beer on the wall 999 beers, ship pit around, 1/4 mile it around, 998 bottles of beer on the wall...

Yes, usually the bearings seemed to have let go under extreme load but these bikes should be able to take an extreme load. The stories of spun rod bearings were on street bikes. I don't recall ever hearing of a 14 have this happen at the drag strip. If it was from harsh use, the track 14s should have been spinning bearings left and right. A couple of the owners reported doing all the routine maintenance and never riding the bike very hard...yes, so they say after their bike blows up but they might be telling the truth, too.

We don't hear nearly as many reports of this with the Gen2. Correct me if I'm wrong but didn't Kaw do some rod bearing lubrication improvements on the Gen2? If so, that seems like they might have had concerns that went beyond just an extra 90 ccs of engine to lube.

the Kawi bike owner's manual usually recommends not to let the bike idle for too long... there could be a reason for that

I think they recommend 2 minutes from a cold start. That's what I let mine run for. If there's a danger in too long of an idle time, it's probably related to heat, I would say.

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Japanese rods/cranks have tight tolerances. Top end starves with low oil pressure, low rpm. I keep the hours off the bike so I kill the engine at lights. Then take right off before the starter clutch gear (exaggerating) stops spinning. That's with every bike so far. Check for cam wear = Nada.

When it happens it's instant... engine failure that is... there is no more oil pressure at the inserts. Oil pours out of the big end of the rod, drops pressure, but still continues on at a lower pressure. Then the tolerance goes wide = Knocks. Once you hear a knock, kill it and never start it again.
Clue number one: cut the filter open. Clue number two: drop the sump pan.

I think they recommend 2 minutes from a cold start. That's what I let mine run for.

Every 14, from day one mind you, I roll it down the drive, light up the bike in first gear, and before the proverbial starter clutch stops I pull away well under 20 mph. That's 2 minutes times wasted divided by worn out, low comp, wear you don't roll up to someone and say, 'wanna race?'

* Last updated by: Hub on 8/22/2017 @ 8:52 PM *

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Sorry to hear Bacon.

Never been a fan of excess idling. But we don't know that's the cause here. Like Hub said it's just "undocumented" hours on the engine (the ECU knows maybe). Also it's always been rumored that parts of a motor can starve for oil with excessive idling. I suppose a rumor that ingrained in our motor culture must have something to it, not sure it's really ever been proven.

But even with excessive idling, let's say double the hours of a 9k mile engine that's still not enough hours to justify grenading.

Hopefully Bacon will tear into the motor. If there's any positive side to this, it's we might be able to learn something from it.

Every 14, from day one mind you, I roll it down the drive, light up the bike in first gear, and before the proverbial starter clutch stops I pull away well under 20 mph. That's 2 minutes times wasted divided by worn out, low comp, wear you don't roll up to someone and say, 'wanna race?'

OK Hub, you've talked me into it but not until I think the oil is at least starting to warm up. It gets a little chilly up here in spring and fall. 60° right now at noon.

* Last updated by: Rook on 8/23/2017 @ 11:32 AM *

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I came across something about oil. So 10w30 says, cold, the oil flows at 10w, but thickens up and stabilizes at 30w when it reaches 100C temp. So if you know I start out from the drive before the oil light shuts off, then kill it stopping the wear x's time, we still pop the valve cover and find no damage.

Doesn't that squash the fallacy of sitting still warming up to that theory? I had to test my own theory instead.

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if per KHI instructions for beginners before riding it tells you TO WARM YOUR BIKE TO NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE BEFORE OPERATION !!!!!!!!!!

Damn

But then again what does KHI know about that motor

* Last updated by: Badzx14r on 8/23/2017 @ 3:57 PM *

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I'm not certain of this. I blieve you're supposed to let it warm up enough to avoid stalling it out then start riding it. You're not supposed to get on it until it's fully warmed up. A couple minutes is the most your bike needs to start riding.

I normally start mine, put my gear on and by the time I've got it down the driveway it's been a couple minutes. Good to go.

OK folks--I know I'm a total newbie here--having had a 2016 SE (new leftover) for about three months--but I did RTFM. And on pg 99 of the owner's manual--it does say--"Do not start or race the engine after starting it--even if the engine is warm. Run the engine at idle speed for two or three minutes at idle speed to give the oil a chance to work up into all the engine parts." That's what I've been doing...all seems to be well! Excuse the public service announcement--- :-)
PS--it also says ---"Do not race the engine while the transmission is in neutral"--all info straight from KHI!! :-)

14 blah blah blah replies on a troll post - not bad

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14 blah blah blah replies on a troll post - not bad

its 106 degrees outside in the shade not counting heat index
so my bike warmed up in the shade

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It's true, some people with Gen1s don't know that first bar is a bar because they live somewhere where it's hot enough for the air to warm the engine!

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...good convo but I don't recall the guy ever saying he let the bike idle a long time or not.

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Troll post??!! Dang--I fell for it! I claim newbie status---

I guess so. It's been 3 days and not a word from baconboy. At least I got some new info about letting the engine idle.

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At least I got some new info about letting the engine idle.

It was in your Owners Manual all along but you rather trust somebody off the internet that knows more than KHI !!!!

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Pulling the engine out this weekend to see what broke :(

the bike was idling for 30 seconds and than it started knocking.

It was in your Owners Manual all along but you rather trust somebody off the internet that knows more than KHI !!!!

Hub's an idea man. I don't know why he trusts the owners manual for break in procedures but not engine warming but he's got some good ideas where he differs from the book.

the bike was idling for 30 seconds and than it started knocking.

So you're not trolling us?

I don't think this will be covered by warranty now if they didn't cover mysteriously blown engines in 06.

* Last updated by: Rook on 8/26/2017 @ 12:03 AM *

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