I recently bought a '07 ZX-14 California model with 4500 miles with evaporative emissions. Is it possible to get rid of the emissions and can I do it myself? Is it even important or worth fretting about and should I just leave it alone? What is the consensus on dealing with California emissions anyway? Does it really slow things down and give you bad milage? Thanks for any suggestions.

It can be removed.Only thing it really is is like your car...it recycles the fuel vapors back into the combustion chamber.Should be able to lift your seat,get to that canister.Take that out,and plug the fitting(s) going into it(IDK how many there are under there...I think two for the canister?).You need to have the overflow hose clear.That stays as is.That one goes down along the left side of the engine and sticks out underneath.NOT THE HOSE WITH THE CLEAR BULB ON IT.Leave that one alone.You can buy small rubber stoppers for small tubing.Just stop up the canister tube(s)(on the fuel tank at the place where she comes out at the back of it there[under the front of the seat]).Once that tube(s) are plugged...you won't have to worry about fuel vapors going back.The tank tubing won't let that happen if she's stopped.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/4/2011 @ 10:04 AM *

Just my 2 cents. I have the same bike (Cal/'07).
I plugged the hose going to the airbox. Based on help around here it seemed the simplest way to eliminate the PAIR.
My only reason to do it was to eliminate or minimize the deceleration popping that my Area P cans made more obvious. It did help overall but the infamous 3,500 rpm bang is still there. Helped a little but I hoped for better results.
As for gas mileage, to tell you the truth I think I lost about 1 MPG. Don't laugh about such a small observation. I often ride the bike the same exact miles and the same conditions from tank to tank and I've gotten to know the bike well. Same with my old bike. I could guess when I needed to reach for the reserve.
Just as soon as I plugged the air hose I swear the bike lost about 5 miles before the "fuel empty" started flashing. Of course, there's the possibility that the tank isn't filled exactly the same from fill up to fill up. On this model, you have to be careful if you add too much because if the sytem is over-filled then it causes problems. I use my finger now to be sure to not fill too high. From my experience, if filled too high, the idle gets a little rougher and you lose a good 2-3 MPG. For me, I did it a few times when I first owned it and the symptoms were obvious.
The fix is easy. You just remove the seat and disconnect the red and blue hoses going to the canister. You blow into one of the hoses and if any fuel comes out the other that's more than a couple drops then you know you over-filled. Right now I forget if you blow into the red or blue (I think the blue?) Always worked for me. I learned about the fix when I called the dealer after only owning the bike a few weeks.
I may unplug the airbox hose and return things to normal the next time I service the bike. If I really am getting slightly less mpg I don't care but the decel' popping is the biggest thing. Get a SM if you haven't already. It will show you how high to fill the tank. Hope this helps.

So, from what I've read, it doesn't seem worth it to disconnect or even bother with the emissions stuff. Sorry, I'm new to the bike, but what is an "SM"? Also, and this also sounds stupid, but you mentioned "reserve." Is there a "reserve" on tank? I looked around but could not find one--and the manual doesn't mention it. If so, it is the first bike I ever owned that did not have a reserve. Thanks for all the help, guys!

Yes, we are like cars...the reserve is no worries, either. Or the canister, which I now know not to mess with it. The previous owner mentioned something about not filling the tank too much and you all have echoed that warning. Thanks for the tips, though. Really appreciate it. I'm realizing that this ZX14 is a very different beast, more refined, than my ZZR1200. Cheers.

You've got .8 gallons left at the flashing "EMPTY"...If you visualize that...you can kinda realize...OOPS....best do something NOW!!!DO NOT SPEED UP!!!!!!!(thinking you'll get there quicker!)

Depending on your riding style(which you CAN change anytime)you can figure about how many miles you have left before...before...yer walkin yer baby back home!If I'm pullin down 38 mpg... IF I stay riding like that at .8 left ...I've got how many miles till TaDA!?Less than 38.At least.So I better be just passing a fuel station,or know that I've got one up ahead within 20 miles.That'd be my scenario.I WOULD NOT RIDE FLASHING EMPTY AND CHANCE WALKING if I passed a station 10 miles back!I'd turn around and head on back to a sure thing!(course,if ya passed it 20 miles back...I would say,6th gear,45 mph for as long as possible!And PRAY!!!)

As far as the fuel running over and entering that tube,I can't say on the Cali models,but I've filled mine up past the neck.Parked and went inside for a hot dog...got that,came back out(Sun was shining bright)and had a nice growing puddle of fuel right under my engine.(It was not dripping on the pipes or anything)I DID NOT START MY BABY.I backed her away and reparked.The overflow tube on the NON-CALI models is down by the airbox moisture collector bulb.Right at the lower belly fairing rearmost tip,by the sidestand there.I would guess...MAYBE...that tube going to your canister is the SAME line,just hooked to the evap instead of going to the ground.Personally,I think you could remove that whole deal and be fine.But that's just my opinion.Hub is correct about the recirculation of the fumes(liquid).However...I don't (my opinion again)see any loss of performance going on by stopping some "fumes" from going back in.???(that would be the OUTLET side of the can).I think you could plug that,as long as you didn't plug the OVERFLOW(reroute that down underneath where the other line is at)and made sure your pressure relief line was okay.????If it were me...and I didn't want that emissions stuff on there...I'd do just that.It's really just trapping the fuel vapors as the tank heats up,then lets the engine pull em back in.Just so it won't vent to the atmosphere.Long as your vent tube is clear,there shouldn't be any problem with tank reverse pressure.It should still remain neutral.Mine vents to the atmosphere all the time...the classic "tank whistle" The "outer" tank is really just a shell...the vent tubes are routed under the shell part...going back to the rear part of the tank,at the seat front there.That's not actually coming 'OUT OF THE PHYSICAL TANK ITSELF"...the inlets are up at the gas cap there.NOT inside the actual tank.If you remove that tank,and turn it downward with the tubes facing down...it will not pour fuel from the tank.Any trapped condensed fuel WILL spill out of the inlet canister line(which won't be much)...but free-flowing fuel in the tank will not come out.It will come out of the fuel rail feed tube though.Yes..and make a serious mess!

No...yer correct...it's NOT like your zzr1200(I had one as well...SWEET bikes)

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/6/2011 @ 3:16 PM *

what is an "SM"? Also, and this also sounds stupid, but you mentioned "reserve." Is there a "reserve" on tank?

SM = Service Manual. You can go to this thread which is in the stickies on top of the General ZX-14 section. I guess some people had luck downloading an SM from the source provided there.

https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=7E306F7E-1372-66AE-3BF5C2F1B1DCEF33

I have a pdf of the 2006 ZX-14 SM which is exactly the same as the 07. If you want that pdf just PM me here and we can exchange emails. I'll send it to you.

No, no reserve to switch over to. Just the last dregs of the main tank after the low fuel indicator comes on. Once read a thread about how far the 14 will go after the low fuel indicator flashes and the tank runs dry. I think it was about 40 miles.

40 miles...only if yer pullin down 42,43 mpg..8 isn't a gallon .

Service Manual...pgs 17.50,51 APPENDIX.California Evap Emissions control.

I COULD BE completely wrong about all this....I'm only going by what I read in the manual about what does what?I THINK the evaps on cars are basically the same design?What happens when a guy removes the canisters on those?

The statement"Does it really slow things down and give you bad milage? " may in fact be VERY accurate.If I've got fuel being pushed into a canister....that's definitely not heading into my combustion camber(until......)

I have done this...been riding.Empty light begin flashing.Passed the road sign for a particular town up ahead....approximately 30 miles.Stopped at the station that was "in between" that 30 miles.Filled up all the way to the filler neck.Gallons?.....5.5.That's a .3 amount left before I filled up.That won't last long.Probably nowhere near another 20 miles.Maybe 10,I wasn't gonna risk it.

I did ride 28+ miles on a flashing "empty" code...at 45 mph all the way.Don't remember the gallons on that one.I was just GLAD I made it!

Having this happen...that's about the time it flashes through your mind(along with the Empty Code)that MAYBE the stock gearing might have been the best option afterall!!! Wheelies won't help you now

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/6/2011 @ 4:20 PM *

filmutah, I meant the reserve on my old bike.
Seems like everyone's fuel gauge senses differently. When my bike was new it would hit the "empty" with 4.7/4.8 gallons used. I believe the SM says something similar will happen. The "average miles" on the screen was about 39 or a couple tenths better, which I knew was wrong based on how much gas I added and the miles on the trip meter. In reality I've always got about 33 if all city riding. This stayed the same for a year.
Then the "fuel empty" started flashing with only 4.2/4.3 gallons used. Don't know why it goes to the empty sooner than it used to but it's stayed that way for the last 3 years. The average miles on the screen has dropped to 38.0 and is holding. Actual mileage is still about 33 with the slight loss I mentioned after plugging that hose to the airbox to try to stop/limit decel' popping.
Hard to tell if it's idling a bit rougher but I think it is and blowing out those hoses under the seat doesn't help and I see little or no fuel spit out the one tube. It was easy to hear the rough idle after I over-filled a couple times when the bike was new.
Wish I understood the evaporative sytem on this bike to know if I've done something that's actually bad for the bike by plugging that hose to the airbox. Sitting here, I'm not sure if that hose to the box is part of the evap'/recovery system without looking at the SM? Hub seems to know what's going on and any consequences but my dumb ass can't understand him when I ask.

* Last updated by: KAK on 11/11/2011 @ 12:22 PM *

I think I read in the manual somewhere that IF you caused fuel to overflow into that canister...you were supposed to replace it.I might be wrong.That canister doesn't do well with gummed up fuel residue inside.There IS a separator in the line...but I don't know what it does.The diagram's in the Appendix section.

Yeah Grn. When I first over-filled and saw the symptoms I called the dealer and the mechanic gave me the tip about blowing out the line. He said a few drops is normal but anything more and that would be the cause of the rough idle and poor gas mileage. He didn't say anything about replacing the canister. A good table spoon came out. I apparently over-filled one other time and after noticing the rougher idle I fixed things again.
Since then I don't think I've over-filled but it SEEMS to me the idle has gotten rougher (no gas mileage change) so I tried blowing out the hose and only some "thickened" fuel shot out, maybe a teaspoon, like you said, kinda "gummy". Not like fresh gas.
So I don't know now if my canister is gummed up or if this is just normal to see come out of a canister that's 4 years old now. I believe the SM says the canister should last a very long time? My bike was down and not started for about 10 weeks when I had the wheels and other parts out for work but I'm not sure 10 weeks could be the reason the canister has gummy fuel in it? Wonder what a new one costs just to eliminate the possibility? Gotta look at my SM to see if plugging the hose to the airbox is related to the evap' system at all.

Well...the gummy stuff has to go through your injectors(yes?).IDK really.But in the service manual...here,let me look...BRB..

Okay...pg3-126."For the California model,if gasolene,solvent,water or any other liquid enters the canister,the canister's vapor absorbing capacity is greatly reduced.If the canister does become contaminated(with those liquids)(my add-on)...REPLACE IT WITH A NEW ONE.

I think your idle problem is a contaminated canister.Just my opinion.4 years...that's a lot of fillups.

I think I mentioned above or something...IF it was my bike...in all honesty...I would remove that evap and just vent it like a NON-Cali model.You'll have to check out the hose routing at the back of the manual though to know which lines can be plugged.That model has a separator in the line...so I don't know how you would step by step remove that evap.But I'm pretty sure it can be done safely.Mine doesn't have one.And she runs great.Nobody with a Cali bike is chiming in on this.I'm guessing cause it's 'illegal' there?I wouldn't care personally.Do you have to get your bike inspected every new registration there?I can't remember...it's been a LONG time ago.You could always just reinstall when ya went to register it.Simple.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/11/2011 @ 1:35 PM *

Okay...so it doesn't need to go through the injectors.GREAT!No worries then about injector contamination.I honestly didn't know how it got to the engine.I'm looking at hose 7,8.Connecting to the sub throttlebody at the front(#3,#4).Is that going straight into the combustion chamber then?

So then Kak could just plug those two hoses(inlets on the block there) at the throttlebody sub,and leave his canister and hoses all connected for an inspection...and no problems with performance(idling)?Or leave the subs alone and plug at the rear of the tank?

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/11/2011 @ 1:53 PM *

Thanks for the help. I'm not POSITIVE the idle is a bit rough, might just be my imagination or after 4 years the throttle bodies could use a synch, change plugs...But I thought I'd blow out that line to see if it helped. I would guess other bikes canisters would look similar inside simply because SOME fuel is bound to enter over a longer amount of time? The SM says it's made to last the life of the bike. I admit to a couple of over-fills that were fixed but I'm not sure that would ruin the thing but it's possible. I also read about the canisters operation being compromised if it becomes saturated and it would need replacement. Not sure if that warning is more directed at performance or just how it keeps the smog compliance correct. I think it's more related to smog but I admit the bike idled poorly and I know the mpg went down at the same time I over-filled. I'd ran the bike to the "fuel empty" warning before I knew I had a problem. Second time it happened the rough idle let me know and I fixed it the day after over-filling. I still don't understand how the system, if "blocked" with fuel, can cut into the mileage by a good 4-5 mpg? But it happened and I doubt there was something else going on that came and went at the exact same time.
I may try the test the SM says to do on the seperator and see if it operates the way it should. Then maybe disconnect the canister and see if that changes anything. Seems like if it is semi-blocked or gummed up that disconnecting it temporarily would be a good test?? I like the idea too of just removing the whole thing except the over-fill line of course. I never liked the idea of so many rubber hoses that can't be easily seen. They get old and can crack and you don't see it coming. Grn, no inspections here so I don't think removing all the smog stuff would get me in trouble.

* Last updated by: KAK on 11/19/2011 @ 10:33 AM *

I use my finger now to be sure

Hmmm... That's what she said!

Hub, the air filter is clean. Replaced it last year.
What do you think of removing all the smog stuff (canister/seperator/hoses) and capping off the two ports at the throttle bodies?

Grn, your bike only has an over-fill drain hose for the tank and I'd assume a couple of caps for the two ports at the throttle bodies? No other parts or tubing?

* Last updated by: KAK on 11/25/2011 @ 10:58 AM *

Overfill and vent(could be only ONE line...haven't looked lately)It comes out under the sidestand area.No lines going to the throttlebodies.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/25/2011 @ 11:50 AM *