Had to replace the rear brake pedal assembly (original snapped when I had an accident). I bought a new assembly from a zero mile bike (or so the ad said). Anyway, part looks mint so no problems there. Installed it a few months ago, rode a few times on it and it "feels" ok. When installing it I had to make a few small adjustments in order to get everything set.

However, to me, it feels like the rear tire is dragging a little more then normal when I spin the wheel by hand on the stand. From what I remember (if im correct) the rear doesnt spin as easy as the front does and there should be some dragging from the tension of the chain. Is that correct? BUT, it feels like there is too much drag

I was thinking the new pedal assembly was too tight causing the caliper to have unwanted tension on the rotor causing the tire to drag a little. I checked the specs as per the manual and I cant seem to get the correct numbers.

Manual says in pic 1 between position A and B it should 45mm. My pedal was about 50mm so I adjusted back down to 45mm.

But then the manual says position C should be 80mm in pic 2.

Heres my problem. When position C is set to 80mm on my bike, the distance between A and B is 50mm (which is 5mm larger then spec. But when position A and B is set to 45mm, position C is no longer at 80mm.

This is what leads me to believe the caliper may be causing extra tension on the tire.

Does that make sense? lol.....What do I do here?

* Last updated by: bentz69 on 3/13/2016 @ 3:23 PM *

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The way the spring is returning the master's plunger, they're are measuring a range where the plunger's threaded arm does not fall out of the master. So no matter how the arm is raised up or down, the big spring is pulling the plunger arm at full retraction.

The way to find out is to remove the pedal plunger off the pivot arm. The arm is not attached to the pivot, the arm is now in full retraction by the inside spring in the master and now the plunger is not pushing fluid to drag the pads. If I don't want to go thru all the removal off the plunger's pivot, I now break the banjo at the caliper, see if the plunger arm was loaded?

The banjo break did not make a difference. We now have dirty fluid, water turned to white crystal, the white crystal under the rubber grows, pushes this square made oring and now the square can no longer rest in the groove, the rubber butts up against the piston, the piston can no longer be pulled back when the square returns flat, this pulls the piston away. My best guess scenario is to quad-ring is hanging up out of the groove causing drag = Banjo brought no joy.

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Heres my problem. When position C is set to 80mm on my bike, the distance between A and B is 50mm (which is 5mm larger then spec. But when position A and B is set to 45mm, position C is no longer at 80mm.
This is what leads me to believe the caliper may be causing extra tension on the tire.
Does that make sense? lol.....What do I do here?

The only thing adjusting the length of that threaded rod from the rear brake MC does is to change the height of the rear brake pedal. Changing the measurement between A and B will not preload the MC at all. The ~45mm A to B and ~80mm C are approximate. Adjust how it is safe for your foot position, cornering habits and of course as Hub mentioned make sure nothing is hanging by a few threads or it could fall apart on the road.

From what I remember (if im correct) the rear doesnt spin as easy as the front does and there should be some dragging from the tension of the chain. Is that correct?

Been a while since I spun my tires by hand and I did not note the rotations when I did. Seems to me the rear is a lot heavier but it spins EASIER than the front. The front has dual calipers that kiss the rotors all the time. Back has just one caliper. I do remember spinning my front as hard as I can and it is all I can do to get it to go around 2 complete rotations. The rear is very heavy but if I get that sucker spinning as fast as I can, it turns on its own for about 2 seconds---and I would estimate that is also about 2 rotations--though I never bothered to check that.

You might be suffering from new parts anxiety. I would take a short ride. Don't touch the rear brake. If the brake is dragging, the rotor will be HOT. Feel if the rear rotor is hot when you get off. If it's cool or just a little warm, you're OK. Nothing has changed with the brake per se. you just moved the height of the brake pedal.

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Don't touch the rear brake. If the brake is dragging, the rotor will be HOT.

That's one way, but we just want to jack the rear up so the back wheel is off the ground to turn it by hand. It's more a static feel for a locking quad ring. We want to jam on the brake pedal hard. We want to now elevate the back wheel. We hand feel the back wheel's up and down motion. We crack the banjo and if the hand did not feel an up and down change...Conclusion: Not the brake system from pedal to banjo = Normal.

Is Rook back from that hot rotor test ride yet? Sig line says? LOL

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Ok rook,thanks for explaining that regarding the pedal position. I wont waste my time with that.

Checking for a hot rotor is a great idea (did it to one of my cars once, completely forgot about it)...but its supposed to rain the next few days so it will have to wait. Ill update once I check that.

If the rotor appears to be normal temp after a ride then maybe its just in my head.

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Bentz most likely. It's as silly as the whole 10 minute bearing thing. Fine, stock bearings will let the tire spin for 30 seconds and Brocks $400 bearings will spin for 10 minutes. Until you seat the brake pads. Then either will spint about 2 revolutions.