I've spent the last couple of weeks dealing with warped front rotors. The cost of replacements is crazy. Has anyone converted the ZX14 rotors to full floating by replacing the buttons? If so any tips or tricks?
TIA

http://www.zxforums.com/forums/zx-14-forum/158602-front-brake-shudder.html

Hank thank you for the link
I had previously read that thread and followed the procedure you described with the aid of a good friend who is not only a mechanic on our helicopter but also an avid motorcyclist. We were able to improve the warp of the discs a great deal, and this process helped the judder. However it is still present and actually seems to be increasing once more.
I read this thread
http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=19762
and it really peeked my interest in trying this solution.

I have a second set of rims. Say there are about 3 of those 14's that went thru my hands. Say 40k worth of front braking only between the 3 bikes. So say around 40k, [20 each] no warp with the OE discs. I bought the OE discs for the extra front rim. That's looking at twice the problem?

https://zx14ninjaforum.com/userfiles/badzx14r/Hub2.jpg
See any rear brake assembly or rear caliper? Take no offense, it's just an observation, but is it the disc or is it the rider?

HAHA No offense taken HUB. I don't know that I have or have not contributed to the problem. Either way I have a problem with my brake rotors and I am looking for input on a solution.

If you can't afford Braking, Galfer or EBC brand replacement rotors, I know some people who say the Chinese knockoffs sold on Fleabay are ok.

GP, what year is the bike? Have you changed the interval 'as per manual or every 2 years, or whichever comes first?'

Guess what? My front tire is getting played out. I have a pulse going on. Are we feeling that sensation instead?

What are we to change per what interval per the manual or every 2 yrs??

Hub. What Rudy said ???
Tires have between 500-1000 miles on them.
Danny I have read some reviews on the eBay rotors. They seem to be overall positive with cosmetics being the main complaint. It's an option.

Also it's a 2007 that I picked about 15 months ago. It had 6000 miles on it. Now 10500

So what did the runout measure on your discs you
didn't post that?

Is it above the service limit of .3 mm ?

If service limit exceeded replace rotors if not, go
do a few stoppies and it will fix it right up.

Most of the time just pad transference from not
using brakes hard enough which will clean up with
a ride or two and some heavy braking.

* Last updated by: piken on 8/30/2016 @ 8:35 PM *

Brake and coolant every 2yrs. Let's say never. Pads stick, piston cannot return, friction sets in, disc never cools. Sound familiar?

If say I have warp discs,I'm going to try magic marker on both discs, then move one disc 180° so the pulse is split in half. First I fined my high spots, then know where to move having it marked [at both] before starting and forgetting who is in, who is out, etc.

Hub, measuring run out requires a dial indicator (as you know) with the front wheel mounted in a solid fixture.
That's why I used a wheel lift under the front forks with the bike strapped down to the lift.
The variation I measured was only a couple of thousandths but could be felt when braking.
I also noticed a variation in measurable run out if I just grabbed the wheel and spun it or if I rotated it very gingerly. It took a bit of effort to get a maximum run out of.002" on both discs but I could feel the difference with .004" or .005". To date, the brakes remain smooth and shutter free.
GP, first gen rotors were nfg. I gave up on them.
My normal maintenance is change fluids yearly and clean pistons, pads,pins, rotors and buttons with each tire change.

There are many folks who have warped the front rotors on ZX-14s and C-14s. There are a few who have never warped a rotor and think it's impossible or a myth. Grab and hold the front brake at a stop after heating up the stock rotors and calipers with some hard slow-downs and the rotors will warp from the concentrated heat. One friend who rides a C-14 with a lot of two-up miles has been through multiple sets of stock and aftermarket rotors in the machine's 78,000 miles. The BW II has over 60,000 on the clock with the same Galfer rotors it had on it when I bought it with 20,000 on the clock.The original owner (another two-upper) warped the originals and replaced them with Galfers. They are not cheap, but they were the end of the rotor replacement merry-go-round for me. Your results may differ.

You can also warp a rotor changing a tire if you're not careful. I always remove mine to put on a new skin.

Hub- all fluids except coolant were changed soon after I took ownership.
Hank- we measured run out as a guide to our adjustment as your previous thread directed. I recall it being way out until we corrected but I do not recall where we managed to reduce it to.
I agree rotors are rubbish really.
Danno-no recent maintenance that SHOULD have impacted the rotors. I think my options are limited. I will try what Piken suggested. If that does not work then I'll buy a new bike.

Ok not really

Mine warped too. I found out that much later that Big K replaced alot of warped rotors with new ones. But I think the replacements warped too. I put EBCs on mine. So far, so good.

I know some folks that had them replaced under warranty, but after they warped again, they decided to quit screwing around with stock parts and upgraded to almost anything else.

Well I tried Piken' suggestion of a few had stops and it really helped. However it seemed to return to after cruising through normal traffic.
The work continues