Have you tried adjusting the lever? and does this affect your problem.
My guesses without seeing and feeling what it is doing would be air in the system or springs (but you didn't mention clutch slippage)
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Created on: 11/05/11 11:14 AM
Replies: 9
heathun
Location: Carrollton, Ga
Joined: 02/15/09
Posts: 543
RE: Any help with my clutch appreciated.
11/11/11 2:51 PM
Have you tried adjusting the lever? and does this affect your problem.
My guesses without seeing and feeling what it is doing would be air in the system or springs (but you didn't mention clutch slippage)
Grn14
Location: Montana
Joined: 02/25/09
Posts: 15511
RE: Any help with my clutch appreciated.
11/11/11 3:50 PM
You may have hit on it right there Kak...hard acceleration while using the clutch.You might not notice while you're accelerating hard just how much or how little pressure you're using to pull it in.If the piston rod in the lever itself is somehow not seating back correctly or smoothly cause it's damaged or for whatever reason,just moving too quick for a good seat in the hole there,then...maybe?You have stock levers on there?I'd look at the piston rod and assembly right there at the lever.
Maybe pull that whole unit off,and inspect it closely?There IS a return fluid hole in there.Perhaps she got some diaphragm bits stuck in it?See any wear on that rubber in there?Black 'dust' in the bottom of the res?
* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/11/2011 @ 3:57 PM *
Rook
Joined: 03/28/09
Posts: 21240
RE: Any help with my clutch appreciated.
11/11/11 5:36 PM
I wouldn't freak over a little black sediment in the res of the clutch or brake. I am positive I saw that in one or both last time I bled them and my clutch operates fine. The rubber parts need replacing because they ware so I think that black powder may be pretty normal if it is just a slight film on the bottom.
IMHO, the special grease on the clutch slave pushrod is optional. it will wash off from the action of crankcase oil seeping up the rod. When I pulled the pushrod, there was only motor oil on it. If there was a microscopic film of molybdenum disulfide on it, I doubt it is crucial to lubricating the rod.
Grn14
Location: Montana
Joined: 02/25/09
Posts: 15511
RE: Any help with my clutch appreciated.
11/11/11 6:43 PM
Only mentioned the 'dust' cause once that rubber begins to deteriorate,it may not be long until small chunks begin to break off under the cap where the threads are at.You're right...the 'dust' probably won't hurt a thing...I've had it in mine as well....
The pushrod thing...ya.Rook's keerect about that.They do mention however that that rod can get bent.I don't know HOW...but I guess it can.
You might want to remove your oil cap...and work your clutch just to see how much or how little the steels are moving in there.(engine off).Put er in first,note the clutch action.Push forward...see how it holds.Try clutching fast and regular several times.See what that does?Lever returning back okay without the motor running?
* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/11/2011 @ 6:48 PM *
seno
Location: Lithia, Florida
Joined: 08/31/11
Posts: 592
RE: Any help with my clutch appreciated.
11/20/11 6:26 AM
What is the condition of your fluid? How old is it? Have you bled the system?
Grn14
Location: Montana
Joined: 02/25/09
Posts: 15511
RE: Any help with my clutch appreciated.
11/24/11 5:01 PM
Have you tried a MiteyVac?These things are amazing in clearing a line and removing all air.It doesn't HAVE to be a Miteyvac...any auto brake fluid pump will work(NOT the bulb type...a piston pump type)One that'll either force fluid into the complete line,or will PULL all the fluid through the line...either way.Could probably get one at your Auto Parts Store.I swear by em...they really do work.
I would(if it were me)avoid breaking loose any banjo bolts.If they're not leaking fluid...best IMO to leave well enough alone.If they're NOT seeping fluid...they're NOT pulling in air either.I'd stay clear of loosening ANY fluid line fittings.
Actually,your lever 'play' sounds kinda normal.If she's springing back when releasing,sounds like she's fine.Your clutch(well,mine anyway)ONLY had about I'd say,maybe 1 inch of travel when actually engaging or disengaging.I could pull mine in around at least an inch before it started to do anything...then the disengagement or engagement was very minimal as far as the full movement of the lever.But it would return to the fully 'out' lever position every time.If it's working the clutch okay...meaning no missed shifts or grinding while going in gear or anything,then it's probably fine.The engagement/disengagement distance really isn't very much.She's going into 1st okay?(from neutral?).Aside from the clunk?No stalling or binding?
It can not be adjusted,so wherever the lever actuates is where it actuates.Long as she's clutching okay...sounds alright to me?No slippage...or is there?.
You could perhaps check your pushrod...just to be sure it hasn't been warped or something...something that might cause it to bind in the sleeve as it comes back out.
* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/24/2011 @ 5:15 PM *
Grn14
Location: Montana
Joined: 02/25/09
Posts: 15511
Grn14
Location: Montana
Joined: 02/25/09
Posts: 15511
RE: Any help with my clutch appreciated.
11/24/11 10:24 PM
Yes Hub...we ARE buds .
Now listen...I've got a serious question for ya...I have this one pesky lower fairing bolt that just wants to keep loosening up.You recommend some black duct tape,or plain old chewing gum in the bolt hole for this and reinsert the bolt?I'm fresh outta bailing wire...or I'd drill a teensy hole next to the bolt and run er through the fairing and frame.Whattaya think?Aside from havin to black magicmarker the wire to match the black fairing,I think'd be alright...yes?
* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/24/2011 @ 10:36 PM *
Grn14
Location: Montana
Joined: 02/25/09
Posts: 15511
RE: Any help with my clutch appreciated.
11/25/11 1:40 PM
Hummmm...okay.Air entering at the line on the Miteyvac...ya....that can happen,but I just made sure that the hose was a tad smaller than a bigger line.Maybe you can cut a piece off,then start again.I've done that.IDK...I just connected mine to the slave nipple.Opened the upper res.Filled that.Began getting suction at the bottom,opened the nipple...and kept doing it that way,closing the nipple only when I went to refill the res,or empty the small fluid bottle.Seemed to work okay.I'd run the engine first though,to get the fluid heated up some.I also leaned the bike into a wall towards the right side there.Pumped the lever several times,then raised the bike on a rear stand to bleed.Any air trapped in that slave piston deal will move out and up the line doing that.Worked for me anyway.Sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do.The book addresses 'no problem' problem solving IMO.Ideally,you wouldn't be doing acrobatics.But stuff happens sometimes Just be sure your baby can't roll when she's leaned over like that.OR,that the bars don't move on ya.You can lock the steering,then roll er forward and lean er....and have er in first so she won't move while ya pump the lever.Won't hurt anything resting on the locked bar end there.
* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/25/2011 @ 1:44 PM *
Grn14
Location: Montana
Joined: 02/25/09
Posts: 15511
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