What’s up guys I know the Question has been asked before but my question is. is the stutter because of the ABS system being completely hooked up? or is it something else? because I have did an ABS delete but of course I took all the lines off, but I left the abs modular plugged in. So my question is now since I’ve started going to the track 1/8 mile I need to really gear up in the back. I know it don’t stutter at 1643 gearing. but I’ve been told I need to go to like 1645 or 1647 even. it’s a turbo bike it’s stretched pretty good and even leaving at like 6000 on my current 40 tooth rear sprocket I’m bogging down so I really gotta get the sprocket changed so any info would be great thanks

Yup, there is an issue with shorter gearing on the 14R. There is a combination that overrides it and it's not very complicated. Stock front and +4 or +5 on the rear, I cant remember now. Do some searching on this site and you'll find it or maybe a knowledgeable member will respond.

https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=37A073DD-AE91-25D0-70F1046450CA265D&show=0

ASSIST:
https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=37A073DD-AE91-25D0-70F1046450CA265D&show=0

Simple trick: Press and hold cntrl then tap the letter u and you get this . Then add the letters rl in both open can closing brackets. It should read 'url'. Then go back in the middle and add the http address.

You're in the cheap seats here and should know a little formatting to embed links/images as shown above the window you're typing in.

Welcome bizzy7902! I believe the stuttering issue is prone to stock combinations with or without a flashed ecu. My theory only is it's the traction control working with the abs and seeing improper speed/rpm/gear and individual wheel speed data from what's deemed to be within the factory parameters? That being said I run a track only Turbo 2015 with the abs deleted and the module attached to the harness. I run on a 7" M/T slick that's 82" circumference to compare to the Shinko or Dragmax I believe are in the 77-78" range. I'm currently at 18/47 and 74.5" wheelbase leaving at 6k on a 2 step with a Hays FastTrack hand slider that allows me to ride to staging and up the return road. I do occasionally feel s stutter when slowly riding through the pits in first or second gear but never during hard acceleration. My last time out 2/27 at the Texas Motorplex I made my best ever 1/4 mile pass at 7.913@168.40 with a 5.037@139.86 1/8th mile. I upped that best ever 1/8th ET the following day to a 5.035@140.88 with my 60ft usually in the 1.230-1.25 range on a good track with good air.
Hope this helps, where about are you from and what tracks do you get to race??

ASSIST:
https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=37A073DD-AE91-25D0-70F1046450CA265D&show=0
Simple trick: Press and hold cntrl then tap the letter u and you get this . Then add the letters rl in both open can closing brackets. It should read 'url'. Then go back in the middle and add the http address.
You're in the cheap seats here and should know a little formatting to embed links/images as shown above the window you're typing in.

Thanks, Hub. I tried that on my Mac and the command/u keystroke does nothing. I remember the the icon in the toolbar for creating url tags. I never use it anymore because we had that virus issue many years back. Since then, I don't click anything in a post, I just copy/paste if there's a url I can see. Of course, if it's a url to a virus, I'll pick it up even if I copy/paste. It's as safe as possible as long as you can read the url and it looks legit. The code tags are fine, I don't click anything that's text to link, you have no idea what that is actually a link to. You remember the Dickosaurus GIF Doggo posted back in about 2012? That or something in the thread apparently contained a virus. My Mac never caught it. I guess a few others did. The Dickosaurus was pretty funny though.

Copy url from the page you want to link. In the toolbar, click the icon second from the right. It looks like a scroll with <> symbols in front of it. You get the [cod][/cod] tags. Paste link between tags. It's been a while but I remember it. Everyone can see your url and decide if they want to click it. I guess I might continue to use text to link in my tutorials since there are usually a number of them. Generally, I avoid clicking on those when i see them here. ...maybe I'm a little paranoid. I don't want to get infected by a Dickosaurus though.

https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=37A073DD-AE91-25D0-70F1046450CA265D&show=0

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/16/2026 @ 6:32 PM *

My last time out 2/27 at the Texas Motorplex I made my best ever 1/4 mile pass at 7.913@168.40 with a 5.037@139.86 1/8th mile. I upped that best ever 1/8th ET the following day to a 5.035@140.88 with my 60ft usually in the 1.230-1.25 range on a good track with good air.

7.9

For Future Readers;

Stock/OEM gearing for all ZX14R's 2012-2023 is
17 tooth front
42 tooth rear

The consensus from sources I've found is that
16/43 with stock 190/50 rear tire is a safe change
in that it won't likely confuse the stock ECU,
and cause 'chatter', this set help get the bike
off the line and through gears quicker than stock
and lower the top speed.
---
Supposedly 1 tooth down in front is the equivalent
of a 2.5 tooth increase in the rear, but I'm guessing
that just going down 1 in front might cause chatter.

The consensus from sources I've found is that
16/43 with stock 190/50 rear tire is a safe change
in that it won't likely confuse the stock ECU,
and cause 'chatter', this set help get the bike
off the line and through gears quicker than stock
and lower the top speed.

Good grief, now I have tire size to worry about too? I prefer a 200/50 or 200/55. There starts to be a lot going on all at once but I'm inclined to guess a taller rear tire sort of adds to the effect of a larger rear sprocket. My brain is hurting trying to figure this out. I can only go one tire at a time but I see a collection of different sized sprockets in my future. I plan to delete ABS but the bike still thinks it's there because of the resistor. I don't know if KTRC can be disabled.

I prefer a 200/50 or 200/55. There starts to be a lot going on all at once but I'm inclined to guess a taller rear tire sort of adds to the effect of a larger rear sprocket. My brain is hurting trying to figure this out.

Le' me see if I can add a little heat to that brain cooking project
ya' got goin' on.

Well this confuses me too, but I'm looking at it this way;

If you rigged up a tire on the rear that was only
8'' in diameter, using some kind of rail system,
when you take off and are cruising, all things equal,
you're not going to cover but only about 1/3rd
the distance in the same amount of time as you
would with our stock tires which are about 24'' in diameter, without
me going out and measuring it, but suffice to say, I think you
can see where I'm going with this, the bike with the bigger tire
is going to go 3 times further in the same time period and that means it's
using 3 times added power cause it's putting out 3 times the work.
Something like HP is a product of mass moving over time.
I could be wrong, but it seems logical to me.
The 55 adds a little bit the overall gear ration equation, but
I would guess not enough to add another tooth to the rear sprocket,
but if .000000001003 second is on the table, maybe a guy should
do the actual calcuation.
-----
I do know that with some bikes like the GSX S1000F , the sport tourer,
a ton of owners go to the 55 over the stock 50 to solve an issue,
I don't recall the issue, it might have had something to do with
turning in better in corners.

* Last updated by: Stratovarious on 3/18/2026 @ 7:32 PM *

Post 12 says 1/2'' taller if using a 55 instead of a 50...

Readers; The discussion is aspect ratio changes
for rear tires, eg; a 19 55 17 is a taller tire than
a 190 50 17
(oem size for most or possibly all ZX14R'S)

I do know that with some bikes like the GSX S1000F , the sport tourer,
a ton of owners go to the 55 over the stock 50 to solve an issue,
I don't recall the issue, it might have had something to do with
turning in better in corners.

well, it turns quicker with less steering input. I believe this has to do with the rake of the steering, you raise the rear, the forks become closer to vertical. Look at 600s and 1000s, their forks are closer to being vertical. Look at a cruiser, it's forks are at a lower angle. Look at a chopper, its forks are at an exaggeratedly low angle. Low angle = stable and slow steering; high angle closer to vertical = quicker steering but more likely to tank slap on you. The 14 and Hayabusa are a happy medium. You can raise the rear through a few methods and there are raked triple trees for the front. I might try a raked triple tree for kicks but simply adding a quarter inch to the rear ride height is a noticeable change that still doesn't let me corner faster...like an Ohlins suspension doesn't let me corner faster nor do forge aluminum wheels. It's putting lipstick on a pig. Maybe if you learned on a small, light bike, these handling enhancements would amount to something on a big heavy bike. Anyone I have known just got a smaller bike instead....although, the mods to the 14 are cool. ...I'm not saying "don't do it", just it isn't going to turn you into a track star on your 14.

Post 12 says 1/2'' taller if using a 55 instead of a 50...
Readers; The discussion is aspect ratio changes
for rear tires, eg; a 19 55 17 is a taller tire than
a 190 50 17
(oem size for most or possibly all ZX14R'S)

Post 12 is you and you are approximately correct about it and only half right about it at the same time.

A 190/55, 200/55, 190/60.....all of these tires are A) taller/more eliptical in profile. I think the 200/55 is actually made for a wider rim which when you put it on a ZX-14 rim, squeezes it a little taller than it would be on the rim width it was meant to go on. The overall increase of tire diameter is about 1/2".

The overall tire diameter doesn't equate to the overall increase in rear end height. Remember, only the surface of the tire that touches the ground can effect rear end height. The top of the tire can rub your undertail but it has nothing to do with rear end height. ...so if the overall increase in tire diameter is 1/2", the increase in rear end height is half of that, 1/4". Noticeable to me but 1/2" would be shocking.

I have raising links for the Gen2 Hayabusa. Haven't tried them yet but verified that they do indeed raise the rear end one full inch measured from ground to just under the tip of the tail light. Sounds drastic but I've heard it's quite manageable. I still doubt it will allow me to finesse that 580 lb monster around a corner any faster than a stock one.

...but it's cool.

Post 12 is you and you are approximately correct about it and only half right about it at the same time.

Look at 600s and 1000s, their forks are closer to being vertical. Look at a cruiser, it's forks are at a lower angle. Look at a chopper, its forks are at an exaggeratedly low angle./
Low angle = stable and slow steering; high angle closer to vertical = quicker steering but more likely to tank slap on you

* Last updated by: Stratovarious on 3/21/2026 @ 6:47 PM *

Could be I have this wrong, but I thought a chopper for instance would
be said to have an extremely high fork angle (rake) sometimes up to 45 degrees,
while a sport bike has
the other extreme low fork angle (rake) of being quite shallow
often 23 ~ degrees.

I generally think of 0° as horizontal....the T-square is 0°, put a 30° triangle on there, that's thirty degrees. Ninety degrees is as high as it gets, that's straight up. But you're right, rake is measured off of a vertical line.

Google: Motorcycle rake is the angle of the steering head (neck) in relation to a vertical line, affecting handling and stability.

So a high rake is a low angle and a low rake is a high angle.

I hope it warms up out there for you folks, so you can get
out and ride soon.

We're getting there. We actually had a few warm days. I just wait until I feel the salt is all washed off the roads. I still have all my little winter wrenching projects to finish. The 14 will have a different look this summer. We'll have the Brock's on there, smoked indicators and windscreen, a couple part deletes, hopefully vinyl on the frame...that's a lot of work for me. The new Hayabusa will be out early this year. I have to take it home from the dealership.

I generally think of 0° as horizontal....the T-square is 0°, put a 30° triangle on there, that's thirty degrees. Ninety degrees is as high as it gets, that's straight up. But you're right, rake is measured off of a vertical line.

hopefully vinyl on the frame...that's a lot of work for me. The new Hayabusa will be out early this year. I have to take it home from the dealership.

I saw an orange busa this weekend at the gas station,
what a beauty, I also love that Japanese logo or writing
on the side, whatever is says, it's pure art.

Doing a vinyl wrap? Cool.

Just on the silver frame. Vinyl would make a nice tank protector too. I plan to vinyl the Hayabusas' gas tank where I contact them. Tech Spec is a great tank protector for the ZX-14. I used it on my Gen1.

what a beauty, I also love that Japanese logo or writing
on the side, whatever is says, it's pure art.

The kanji. I believe it means "Hayabusa". Peregrine falcon which the bike is named after. Yes, ancient, traditional writing adds mystery and gravity to the message. ...a whole bunch of layers of meaning.

The kanji. I believe it means "Hayabusa". Peregrine falcon which the bike is named after. Yes, ancient, traditional writing adds mystery and gravity to the message. ...a whole bunch of layers of meaning.

Tech Spec is a great tank protector for the ZX-14. I used it on my Gen1.

So here's a riding question for you Rook, and Hub;

I'm getting much more confident and perhaps competent
in high-speed sweeps, yet I have this issue with
worrying about leaning the
bike too far, or not leaning it far enough.

What I was kind of deciding today was that if I'm not scraping
parts, (which I'm not so far) I should be safe to lean
as far as I please, without worrying about low siding my bike,
provided good pavement, temps, etc , AND mildly to moderately
accelerating in sweeps, to the point where I'm having more
'fun' yet not to the point of scraping parts.
Does that sound reasonable?
I mean, I get in these long sweeps and 70 to 80+ and feel like
I can keep rolling on the throttle, not whisky throttle but
keep adding so long as I'm still really only leaned over maybe
35 or maybe close to 40 degrees, not to the point of
scraping parts, like waht is my warning indicator , when
do the alarms start ringing?
---
I also have this issue I've been asking pros about, getting
NO takers on discussing the theory of lean pressure vs
counter-steering, from what I figure at this point in my
riding , I feel like at higher speeds, the ration seems
to be a ballpark of about 90/10 , 90% counter steering
to 10% lean pressure, speeds above 60mph are almost all
countersteering as far as initiating throwing the bike
into a sweep, but it seems that once there, the leaning
more toward center of a radius or 'not',along with
foot pressure on pegs, has some
useable impact on tightening or expanding a radius,
bearing in mind that we also lean off, to help
stand the bike up for more contact patch which makes
the entire process pretty confusing.
One trick I learned from (I think) Simon Crafar videos,
is that we can expand a radius of a turn via
accelerating and of course shrink it by decelerating,
I've used this quite a bit in the last few months,
as a practice tool, it
seems to be pretty effective, I also practice
changing the radiuses by using less and more countersteering,
in other words, I'll use more pressure on the inside
bar to tighten up, and I'll also ease the outside
bar forward just a hair to practice widening the
radius.

* Last updated by: Stratovarious on 3/25/2026 @ 7:14 PM *

What I was kind of deciding today was that if I'm not scraping
parts, (which I'm not so far) I should be safe to lean
as far as I please, without worrying about low siding my bike,
provided good pavement, temps, etc , AND mildly to moderately
accelerating in sweeps, to the point where I'm having more
'fun' yet not to the point of scraping parts.
Does that sound reasonable?

You have centrifugal force pulling the bike over in a corner. The centrifugal force increases with speed. You have the weight of the rider and bike to lean, both of which counteract the centrifugal force. You're not changing the weight of the bike on the spot nor are you going to change your body weight. If you want to lean the bike more, you need to increase the centrifugal force which means you go faster. If you don't go faster, all that's left in your arsenal is to lean your body weight to the inside of the corner less. I've seen video of motorcycle Gymkhana where the rider actually does a reverse hang-off, he leans the bike low and sits up on the upper edge of the seat. He's leaning the bike so low at a very low speed he actually has to remove as much of his body weight as possible from the equation to prevent the bike from falling down. For speed riding, you're main concern is to keep the bike from flipping UP and over. I think your best option is to increase speed if you want to lean more. ...I mean, you can "not hang off" as much as possible but leaning and sitting on the upper edge of the seat is for Gymkhana in a parking lot, it's not road race style at all. I would go as far as to suggest sitting straight up in a corner and flattening down so you can use more of the bike's weight to lean instead of your own weight. That only goes so far though. The simplest way to lean more and also further the style of riding you do is to corner at a higher speed. Keep hanging off as the method you use to make adjustments on the fly.

I'd worry about scraping parts after you scraped them. I believe the scraping of parts is going to be something very easy for you to compensate for if it happens. I scraped my exhaust a few times. It was a noise I heard, I didn't feel the bike was going to lever up and low side. The way we corner takes several seconds and the changes in lean are incremental after the initial turn in. If you scrape something, I believe it will be a warning scrape, not a low side. A low side caused by the bike levering the tires off the pavement would be in a surprise situation where you were probably going to crash for some other reason if you didn't low side.

Yeah, what you suggested sounds reasonable. ...just be careful with the speed. Speed brings risks a lot greater than low siding.

You're not changing the weight of the bike on the spot nor are you going to change your body weight. If you want to lean the bike more, you need to increase the centrifugal force which means you go faster. If you don't go faster, all that's left in your arsenal is to lean your body weight to the inside of the corner less.

...just be careful with the speed. Speed brings risks a lot greater than low siding.

I think I'm going go ahead and order some curb feelers,
and rig them up, this is something I'd been toying with
for a couple of years, I thin it's time, I'll set them up
to where they will hit pavement a couple inches
before my pegs.

I should be able to get some decent ones from one of these guys;

Yeah this seems right, I've been thinking about this aspect off and
on for months, the lean is not really a product of lean, it's more
a product of speed, the speed enables the lean and then I guess
conversely , we don't need nor really want the lean unless the speed
or increased speed calls for it --- dictates that this just has to be
as a matter of sheer physics.

This echoes one of the memorable comments by Hub. Some years back, a member was asking the same question and Hub's opinion was, 'if you want to lean more, the most sensible way to do it (given road race style riding) is you increase the speed in the corner.' This advances the reason you ever wanted to lean in the first place. It builds on what you already learned. You actually have time to make adjustments mid corner.

One thing that I guess puzzles me though is that we see GP riders
leaning really far down in 40mph corners, or perhaps that is
an illusion, as they are maybe more-so just leaning of the bike scraping
knees and elbows as a gauge.

I think they're leaning themselves, not so much the bike. The bike is heavy, it takes a lot of speed to lean it. We are not so heavy so we can lean ourselves a lot even at lower speeds. LOL you see the Moto GP riders scraping knees and elbows at high speed?...that's because there's no room not to! They have to lean the bike that far, they're keeping their knees and elbows tucked in as much as possible and they still touch down.

Then with TT racers, it seem that very few of them get into
the knee scraping at all.

There's not a lot of corners where they need to on the TT. I can think of a video where I saw one. Everyone took the corner in admirable fashion but that's not the forte needed for the TT.

You mention Gymkhana, I'll have to look him up, but cops train this
way or have for a very long time, even at speed. The thinking is
or was that if the bike lowsides they're on top of it, though
I've never seen any actual data that it has actually ever
been proven as a life-saving or injury mitigating principle.

You probably won't die in a Gymkhana crash. I think any way you practice control over the bike transfers to situations that are dissimilar but practice in situations that are similar transfer most directly.

... and then aside from that , yeah speed
is risk period as you say, so there's that as well.

Yup. Very simly, there's less time to react. It applies to every situation and every speed. OK maybe there's a few situations where going to slow is more dangerous than going as fast as everyone. We all have our limitations though. If it's too fast for you to react, it's very risky and I guess that applies to going too slow too.

I should be able to get some decent ones from one of these guys;

More than likely will get some exceptional ones from one of those guys. Chances are, they're making them for the guys who aren't those guys. It's not a bad idea to try some curb feelers. I think you'll be feeing them before long. Half inch chicken strips on the road with reasonable tire pressure is pretty impressive. Think of all the motorcycles that have twice that including much smaller sport bikes.

The quick way to doing this is you just get some Pirellis and lower the tire pressure way down. Other tires don't feel good at extremely low pressure but Pirellis don't seem to notice much. You want small chicken strips, thats how to do it. ...otherwise just ride and have fun.