Gentlemen,

I accidentally removed the Sub throttle sensor on my zx14 while removing the throttle assembly for a complete fuel system cleaning. Also installed new o-rings and insulators on the injectors, as some were cracked (weren't leaking fuel yet, thank God). The job went really good, other than the sub throttle sensor, lol. The bike runs great, but only runs at about 50 percent capacity. My max speed was 80 miles per hour. Bike feels like it wants to get after it, but I can tell the sensor is telling the ECU the wrong information because the sensor was removed (lesson learned) and not repositioned in the factory position.

My questions are:

1) Is there a way to adjust this back to factory settings, or am I better off getting a full throttle assembly as I've seen other people suggest?

2) If I go the new throttle assembly route, what would be the best place to get one? How would I know that another jackass (such as myself, lol) hasn't pulled off the same sensor. Can I buy one somewhere that guarantees it to work properly? I see quite a few on Ebay, but you never know what you're going to get from there.

Any help is much appreciated. Again, the bike starts, runs, and idles great. Issue is the Service 32 Code. Thanks in advance!

Welcome to the club. Guilty buying another body for over a grand. Just because I didn't want to leave it at a dealer so I schooled myself. Figure out a way to preload the spring inside the sensor. Trying to recall how I did it? With a tiny flat blade you can see the [I-slot call it] for a screwdriver. You are feeling for the direction that the driver will unwind. Get that half or full wind, I forget, but it's no more than a full wind.

Say you can just install the sensor on the shaft... unwound. If you can turn it in said direction, then just turn it up to the oval slot and that should be loaded enough. However, if you have to hand hold that load, slot it to the sub shaft, you should line up the oval hole to the set screw hole and start from the center of the oval say. Unless you can see the imprint from the first crush of the set screw, aim for that position.

Turn the key on. Note: First-gen will cycle thru each sensor and codes will clear in about 5 seconds or so. As the key is on, it begins to cycle, meaning, it is going to ping the sub sensor off. It means you are within range. In so many seconds, it shuts off the code if it is the early model gen family.

R models play a different game. It takes a lot of key cycles to shut the code light off. The easier loophole to the early sensors was to move them in their oval slots till the code wiped itself off the dash. For a different example, 02 sensor was unplugged, ridden, then plugged back in again. Code did not clear till many key cycles later. If your bike is early, you don't need an ohm meter, or the trick factory test harness to probe for the correct volt numbers.

So let's say you own the R family. Do you recall the sound the sub made while it zero'd out like the tach and speedo do when the key is first turned on? If you can hear that actuator [stepper motor] cycle on then turn off, it's dialed in. If it chatters and ratchet sounds, you're off the scale. Keep moving the sensor ever so little to get the code to shut off, or the ratcheting to stop and sound normal.
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Ohm meter readings:
Closed subthrottle 4.14 ~ 4.34v
Open subthrottle 0.42 ~ 0.62v

With a sewing needle, BL/W is (+)... G is (-) wire(s), you stab down between the rubber weather-pac boot and wire. This should contact the metal prong. Stab the other needle in the green(-) weather-pac boot and wire. Key on, meter set to 20v, closed sub sensor should read 4 volts and anything in the middle is within range.

Go to the left side of the throttle body and ratchet the sub shaft open and lock it open. This should read somewhere under a volt to say 0.50v, it says it's within range. Now I have no clue if the code should shut off like an early 14. If it's an R and if it acts like the 02 to clear a code, I have no clue about a mechanical kind of rheostat and how that is addressed for turn of time code wise.

That says I would try it anyway just for grins, rather than a meter setting.

That still says you can ratchet it for sound, no ratchet, and shuts off, code remains on, ride it till it eventually clears R wise.

* Last updated by: Hub on 5/1/2021 @ 8:04 AM *

I know of one guy who adjusted the angle of his primary TS. That bike runs great. It was a lot of trial and error and he did mark the exact position it was set at from the factory.

You're right, never touch those screws but now that you did, ...can you remove the subthrottle plates? If it's a Gen1, I'd do that anyway. Then it won't matter what the sensor tells the actuator motor to do.

mornin, Hub.

Hub and Rook, thanks for the info! Now that I think about it, I definitely heard the sensor rotate once I pulled it off. I thought my mind was playing tricks on me. I had the feeling in my stomach that was going to be my one mistake on the repair, lol.

I'm definitely going to attempt to preload the sensor again myself first. I love tinkering and figuring things out over trusting other people for repairs.

The good thing is, the factory markings are still on the sub sensor. I lined it back up, but I now know that it doesn't matter because it's one revolution off.

This was very helpful information fellas, thanks! I'll let yall know how it works out. Enjoy!

Hub,
It ended up being a half turn. I know this because if you try a full turn it will stop just after halfway way. The cool thing is, I was able to do it by disconnecting the sensor and rotating it using its own spindle. It sticks out just far enough to catch the fitting inside of the sensor. Im so glad the factory markings were still on there.

Going to test ride it shortly.

I'd say you got it. I don't know how sensitive the sensor is to the exact angle. It might need to be exactly x° to set it precisely as it should be.