Took the stock exhaust off to put on my new system. Problem. Three of the manifold bolts came out with their nuts frozen to the tops due to rust. I got the nuts off the bolts but now I have to put the bolts back into the motor.
Do I put any high temp lock tight on them and how tight in do they go ..I ask this because I cannot find a reference to these in the manual except the torque values for tightening the nuts ..
Any help appreciated

Not sure I'm much help but if there's no sign of threadlock from the factory then I assume no threadlock should be needed? This assumes the studs have never been removed and maybe cleaned off by someone/and the factory didn't forget to threadlock them?
Not having this problem ever, I'd measure how much the other studs stick out and if fairly close/uniform, I'd install the other 3 until they thread in/match the other 5. Then use some anti-sieze on the nuts and torque. Maybe the holes for the studs are precision depth and all uniform so you just go in until seated? But as for how much to torque them at that point I don't know.
I just had my header off and had no problems with stuck nuts, etc, but let me add that during install, slowly/uniformly tighten each nut until you finally reach the required torque (13 ft/lb if I remember?) Then, I found the nuts kept loosing their torque, probably due to the new copper header gaskets crushing down, and I had to uniformly re-torque several times until they all kept their setting. Maybe I shouldn't have kept checking/torquing but I'd heard how these nuts can come loose and I was afraid of leaks (and tool access) after installing the radiator/bodywork so I wanted to feel sure the nuts were down enough. I felt the lost torque settings could also be due to the flanges maybe tightening down slightly unevenly and causing some binding(?).

Thanks. I don't think there was any residue on the bolts ..however one showed some white coloring as if there had been something used so I am confused.
On close inspection I have found that my shop manual gives zero torque numbers for the header bolts or nuts.(I was mistaken in my first post- I had the wrong bolt torque numbers- not the header bolts/nuts torques) In the section where there should be torque numbers there is a blank.

If anyone knows the answers to the torque values for header bolts and nuts I am all ears.

* Last updated by: painterdude on 3/22/2010 @ 4:40 AM *

painter Brocks web site says no more than 10 ft lbs

Thread lock is not absolutly needed but I would put a low or medium grade lock tite on just to keep from losing them (they like to come loose and fall off). First put in the stud then put on the nut. And Yes....you do need to torque the nut. By torquing the nut you torque both.

Not sure I'm much help but if there's no sign of threadlock from the factory then I assume no threadlock should be needed?

Take 2 nuts, run them down the threads and tighten them together. Screw the stud back in the head. Remember to match the stud length to know who hangs out with more or less threads in the head. Once the stud runs out of thread, you bark down the outside nut. This forces more lock on the other nut. This throws enough torque you do not rip the stud off into the head and now what?

So, no help with the liquidshit you trying to remove said stud out of a head is spins out so you can replace it with another. You want lock-0-Seal is your bike. My bike is more serviceable I get carried away with a hand torque like how much twist you need is sneak up on it I say.

Thanks hub..I was going to use the two nut deal to run the studs in ..just have no ideeer of the torque### needed.
Think the engine stud holes were slightly small relative to the studs to create a tight fit = vibration proofing. I wondered about using loctite high temp stuff to give back the grip the studs/thread holes may have lost having had the studs backed out. They sure squeaked coming out. Maybe there is enough grip to send them back in without locktight.

* Last updated by: painterdude on 3/22/2010 @ 5:36 PM *

It's all about Archimedes and his screw binding against the opposite wind. So, male female ends of the same screw pitch bind on the valve cover that do not unscrew by themselves. Same principal the stud screw binds up against the threads. That is why it is simple to hand spin studs and bolts into a thread hole. Once the bind occurs, she will not fall apart is think about a car with all the tiny screws and large bolts that build a car and it just does not fall apart years down the road, the parts fall of by themselves... Sans a soft gasket unloading the load.

Not many bolts on the bike are glued with bond or loctite. Safety things like the disc brake bolts or the engine frame bolts are things that come around in a circle like a wheel with a bolt backing out is just over a safety issue that may never occur you add the correct torque.

Now, with the pipe on the harmonics and that stud moving out as it is, you want that head area with moving hardware not locked in a hole forever. There is nothing wrong with loctite on the stud. I'm just saying this stud is under load/vibration and is better off service wise it floats in the threads you can hand spin things on.

* Last updated by: Hub on 3/22/2010 @ 6:20 PM *

painter, the factory manual says 13 ft/lb for the "exhaust manifold holder nuts". In the periodic maintenance section 2-7.
Be sure you have them torqued to your liking since a couple of the nuts are hard to get a wrench on and still have room to tighten once everything is back on.

Thanks so much Hub and KAK ..KAK thanks for that referrence ..alas my stupid shop manual actually does not have that reference at all at 2-7 in the periodic maintenance !!Whats up with that!! Ya I have figuired how to wrench on those bolts pretty good ..modified a ratchet. Works great ..well I still have cuts on my hands!!

Honestly, when mine do that i just leave the nut on the stud and run it back in that way. No leaks so i guess it works?

Thanks so much to all of you. Good to have such a crew around to rely on. I actually do all the work I can now on my bike and loathe sending anything to the dealer ship.They charge a fortune and more often than not create more problems than they solve- or so it has seemed. I suspect they subtly mess things up just to create more service work down the road.

* Last updated by: painterdude on 3/26/2010 @ 11:47 AM *