I changed the oil at 100, 1000, and just the other day at 3000 miles. This was the first time I put synthetic in. I expected to maybe have a slightly noticable difference. Probably so slight I would think it was possibly in my head justifying paying $60 for oil.
This was not the case. The idle noise is obviously quieter. The shifting makes far less noise and feels easier on my toes. There is no longer any clunking into gear.
I am sold. I will be continuing to keep synthetic in for the life of the bike.

What kind of synthetic did you use ? I have a gift card to cycle gear, and they have Motul 7100 for $9.99 a quart, which I would normally NOT pay, but it is a gift card, so ........ I usually use Rotella T6, but have been wanting to try Motul for some time

Yep i feel the same way worth every penny

I read in one of the sportbike mags that you should not use synthetic on a bike during the breakin period.

Hmm.

I did.

My first oil change at 500 miles I used official Kawasaki synthetic (WIth tax, it was almost $14 a quart, by the way), so who knows...........

As much money as I have in this bike, I will use synthetic every oil change. I think the advance protection of synthetic is worth the extra money when you really value an expensive apex predator machine like these bikes are.

* Last updated by: ZX14MAN64 on 12/10/2012 @ 8:51 PM *

The bike will run cooler too (at least with Amsoil). Worth every penny. I use it in my mower and snow blower.

* Last updated by: alg8er on 12/11/2012 @ 12:01 AM *

I used Motul 300V. I have not noticed it running cooler but probably won't be able to tell as the temperature took a big drop about the same time i put it in.
You don't suppose the oil controls the weather?...

I like both Amsoil and Motul 300V. Motul 300V seems to hold better than Amsoil. I was able to run it for 5000 miles and the shifting was still good. Amsoil lasted 3000 miles and the shifting went back to normal i.e a little clunky/noisy. My bike is burning some oil and I have been thinking about going back to non synthetic but just the way the motor runs on Motul is worth the price, even if I have to change the oil every 2500/3000 miles.

I just ordered some Motul 7100 because I had a gift card, hope it is as good or close too as the 300V

At the risk of being the negative poster on this thread, personally, I think a lot of it is placebo effect and the more you pay for an oil the greater the effect. I'm afraid I just can't go for this.."I've just changed to brand X fully synthetic and it's transformed the gearbox" or the engine is "a whole lot quieter and smoother". For every motorist that swears by brand X there'll be one that thinks it's shite and recommends brand Y. I've reached this opinion over 30yrs of riding and even more on 4 wheels using all brands/specs/prices and found no significant difference. I do however change my oil regularly, sometimes more regularly than the manufacturer's schedule. Matching the specs on the can with the vehicle manufacturer's requirements is the important thing for me. One thing is for sure and that is modern oils are far superior to those available even 20 years ago. I guess everyone has their own opinion and makes their own judgement but I just can't justify to myself paying the high prices some of the premium brands command if I can't see, feel or tell the difference. JMO

I did two oil changes with dino oil at 120 and 850 miles. Now I've got 2700 miles and am switching to synthetic as soon as I get to it. $25 for a five quart container of Castrol full synthetic at Walmart. Broke it in like I stole it and so far so good - no oil burn and runs perfect. Just make sure you don't by oil with the extra friction reducers in there that can screw with your clutch.

Kind Of agree with pegscraper, I basically do enough frequent oil changes that synthetic will be just a waste for me
And the best thing that silks out a gearbox that I've experienced with this and my previous bikes, is a properly adjusted chain

If you don't use a 4T (motorcycle specific) oil, don't stretch the normal change intervals, even if you use full synthetic. 4T means 4-stroke engine with common transmission/sump. Gears meshing is very hard on the oil and "shears" the polymers, thinning the viscosity. 4T oils have specific additive packages for this use that help mitigate shearing. A 4T dino oil may be just as good as a regular synthetic when it comes to use in common transmission/sump motors.

* Last updated by: Danno on 12/11/2012 @ 5:29 PM *

No placebo effect here. Bike runs 1 bar cooler at the same ambient temp. Tranny doesn't clunk/jerk into 1st gear as hard. Oil is in much better shape after a few hundred miles (can tell just by looking in the oil window). All obvious improvements over the oil I was using before. My car shows similar results with Amsoil over not only regular oil, but a couple synthetics too. But hey, use what you want.

No placebo effect for me either. I have gone back and forth a couple of times and the shifting is definitely better on Amsoil or Motul. If you change your oil every 2500/3000, I'm pretty sure you could get by with the cheapest stuff as long as it is motorcycle specific. I would like to change mine every 4000/5000 miles. If I can't fix my oil burning issues I may have to shorten my interval but one thing for sure full synthetic holds longer than regular oil. There are numerous studies proving that fact but if you're looking for an indisputable fact you could run both and send it to a lab. It's relatively cheap.

I use Amsoil in my car, and change it once a year. Last month the oil was tested (pre-change) and it tested good.

I used in my ZX14 and changed it once a year. Twice one year because I did so many miles going to COG National etc. etc.

Same results.

So the test Amsoil publicized of running New York taxis on Amsoil and only changing it once a year even though they did over 50,000 miles is the real deal.

Nothing comes close.

EDIT: and if you run the bike 20,000 miles and then put it up for the winter, the Amsoil sitting in the crankcase won't eat your bearings like dino oil will (since dino oil degrades over time even just sitting in the crankcase doing nothing)

* Last updated by: privateer on 12/12/2012 @ 9:37 AM *

I agree with pegscraper - placebo effect.

* Last updated by: runnerhiker on 12/12/2012 @ 12:47 PM *

I'm going with Mobil 1 full synthetic for Motorcycles.I tried Brocks 0W and my bike used oil and the cam chain started rattling.My bike shifted terrible at 2000 miles.I'd go back to Amsoil but nearest dealer is 40 miles away.
Advance auto is 3 miles from me.
Craig

Wholly disagree on the placebo effect. There was a very noticable difference after the switch. I am very attuned to what my bike feels like while sitting still. This is the first time I have ever had synthetic oil on any of my bikes.
Regardless of what can be proven, I know it is not all in my mind. I was hoping for no difference so I could go back to regular oil. Oil change frequencies are not an issue either as the longest part of the procedure is getting the bike up on stands.
I have about 33 years of riding expirience. I have had bikes that were barely held together junk to this monsterous contraption.
I am now almost 400 miles away from that oil change and still stand by what I origionally posted.

For those who are having trouble because the dealers are so far away, try amazon.com

http://www.amazon.com/Motul-300V-Liters-836041-101343/dp/B000VJPULY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1355352418&sr=8-4&keywords=motul+300v

Havent put synthetic in the 14 yet, but I do remember my busa shifting alot smoother when I went to rotella T6 synthetic ....

I don't know how much difference it makes on an already really smooth engine and transmission but on my V-Twin it really did quite all the motor noise down significantly. But it does get changed so often that I don't know if it's worth it. I live in FL so if it will help protect the motor against all the heat here then it's worth it. Any performance gains above and beyond the better protection are just a bonus. If I switch that's what it would be for, protection not so much looking for any performance out of it. I know some have dyno'd an extra couple HP with synthetic but the margin of increase is so small that you could chalk it up to any number of factors (weather, dyno, humidity, etc).

I can agree though to some extent with quieting noisy engines down as it does lubricate better.

It's not just the extra mileage capability of Amsoil, it's better protection. If an oil can last a year, and 50,000 miles, it's a better oil. If you've tried Amsoil and had no improvements, fine. If you haven't, don't automatically call "placebo effect", as it just sounds like sour grapes, or trolling. A cooler running engine is impossible to be a placebo effect. Losing the clunk/jerk of putting the bike into 1st is impossible to be a placebo effect. My oil being the same color/consistency at the end of the year as at the beginning of the year is impossible to be placebo effect. Now, tell me your results of using Amsoil. I can't speak for all synthetics, as I had terrible results with other brands.

Amsoil made my ZZR 1200's motor slightly more reluctant to start, reduced fuel mileage (slightly) and made shifting a bit more difficult compared to Mobil 1 4T. For that reason, I have not bothered using it in the ZX-14.

Lytnin' (who also runs Mobil 1 4T) told a story of rebuilding his friend's ZRX dragbike motor that was full of Amsoil. He said the stuff was so thick and clingy, he could hardly hold a part between two fingers. It seems Amsoil uses an additive that makes it cling to an engine's parts, which could be good, but also seems to have the effect of thickening the oil, making it flow less easily. To me, thick and gooey is not good.

This is anecdotal evidence, not empirical. Your results may vary. Both oils were 10W40 4T. I have heard of Amsoil 0W40, but don't know if it's a 4T product. It may flow a bit better than their 10W40.

"It's not just the extra mileage capability of Amsoil, it's better protection. If an oil can last a year, and 50,000 miles, it's a better oil. If you've tried Amsoil and had no improvements, fine. If you haven't, don't automatically call "placebo effect", as it just sounds like sour grapes, or trolling. A cooler running engine is impossible to be a placebo effect. Losing the clunk/jerk of putting the bike into 1st is impossible to be a placebo effect. My oil being the same color/consistency at the end of the year as at the beginning of the year is impossible to be placebo effect. Now, tell me your results of using Amsoil. I can't speak for all synthetics, as I had terrible results with other brands."

Re read my original post. I said I found no discernable difference with all the oils I've tried and yes, Amsoil is one of them. Maybe I could have left the Amsoil in for 20k+ miles and it would have handled it easily but that's not for me.
Trolling no, just an opinion. Sour grapes, why? I really couldn't care less if someone claims they tried an oil and it gave them a smoother gearbox or a quieter engine or even 50% more power and an 8 sec quarter! I'm certainly no chemist and no nothing of oil formulation. All I know for sure is I've never had any issues using 'lesser'oils so, personally, I see no reason to change. Again, JMO

* Last updated by: pegscraper on 12/13/2012 @ 11:02 AM *

I've always used Motul....v300...and 7100.These are excellent oils for the ninja...IMO.I'm pretty sure the v300 is what they put in at the dealer.Looked the same as my v300 I first changed with on my 14R...At 180+ miles.After that...7100 full syn...

I tried several others on my 07....supposed to be really good.They usually started faltering on the shifting feel within 1000 miles.Never tried Mobil 4T.Probably won't.The Motul was very good...and let me know when it was time to change.Like clockwork.I don't think you can do much better with 'other than' Kawasaki motor oils.When they say 'specifically designed' for "your" ninja....I think they mean it.It's possible that Motul is not 'just another' oil.Who knows?May just be hype...selling Kawasaki products...but it always worked very well in my Kawasakis.Up to 5k at one time....and she still shifted excellent,and remained pretty darn clean at that mileage.

I may be wrong here..but to my knowledge...only the 2012's and up actually have a full syn recommendation in the oil change area of the manual....?????It is one of the options anyway...listed in there.Long as she's shifting well...I don't personally see a reason to not extend the oil life mileage?I can't really remember feeling a difference between the 300V and the full syn 7100....other than mileage.And that never actually got played out to it's max....

On Brock's website..he did mention a 'warning' about using Mobil 1.I don't know why exactly...but it's there.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 12/13/2012 @ 12:08 PM *