I've been building a turbo ZX14R for a while. It's now rideable and everything. Soon to get a MaxxEcu. I feel like I've earned the right to suggest parts to others looking to build a turbo bike since I'm nearing the 25 grand price-point for my build.

Here's what I've picked out for to build the simplest, most cost-effective, reliable turbo zx14. Feel free to disagree. I am happy to explain/defend what I have put on the sheet. I'll update the sheet as I learn more.

Sheet-

Head:
--Carpenter Valve springs
--Valve Spring Swap Tool (KAWI PART #57001-241)
--Valve Spring Adapter (KAWI PART #57001-1586)
--RBM Viton seals
--Cometic Head Gasket 0.030”
--NGK CR10E Plugs @ 18 thou

Clutch:
--SAE Outlaw Titanium clutch hardware
--MTC clutch fibers and steels (call to order)
--MTC billet basket
--MTC 2-stage lockup (Call to Order)
--Air/CO2 shifter to upshift under lockup load+high RPM

Block/case:
--SAE Outlaw Head studs
--SAE Outlaw oil system upgrade
--New Main Bolts

Rotating Assembly:
--Wossner Pistons 9.3:1
--Wossner 3/8” Rods (MUST SHAVE ROD BOLT BY BASKET)
--New Rod Bearings
--New Main Bearings

Timing:
--New OEM timing chain
--APE manual timing chain tensioner

Fueling:
--Injector Dynamics ID1050X
--Installation spacers
--HTP in-tank fuel pump/regulator
--PTFE AN6 Fuel Hose (E85 compatible indefinitely)
--5/16th EFI Hardline to AN6 Adapter (connects factory fuel rail to fuel lines)
--¼” vacuum line for pressure regulator
--Set Idle pressure to 43PSI

ECU:
--Route #1: Stock ECU. Some tuners can tune off just stock ECU. Example: Chris Boomstune
--Route #2 Stock ECU + PCV for map switch for different fuels
--Route #3 Stock ECU + PCV-PTi unit for tuners who do not tune solely off of stock ECU. Can add map switch for alternate fuel
--Route #4 MaxxEcu. Closed loop fuel adjustments. Traction control. Boost control. Launch control. Autoshift control. Flex-fuel. Engine protection measures.

Turbo:
--Route #1 RCC custom kit. Just turbo + oiling system + airbox block offs.
--Route #2 Scott Davis custom kit. Just turbo + oiling system + airbox block offs.
--Can also weld airbox if possible. Will lead to far less headaches down the line from degrading JB weld.
--JB WELD TANK WELD (to seal up air leaks and holes in frame. Reference instructions I supplied on what bolts and taps to use on install)

Suspension:
--Drag-valved rear shock (Ideally)
--Spring appropriate to body weight (Ideally)
--Reinforced Swingarm. Extended will be more manageable to ride due to wheelies from turbo torque.

Tire:
--Dunlop Q5S
--Dragmax
--Hookup

Gearing/Sprocket setup:
--Vortex 17 front (no rubber isolator)
--Vortex 39 rear (steel)
--3D chain with rivet master link
--SAE Outlaw titanium output shaft nut
--New sprocket nuts with nylon lock

* Last updated by: danmin on 11/5/2025 @ 4:07 PM *

Thanks, Dan.

Here is a comparison of "Plug and play" fuel systems on the market. Though you can DIY your own kit- unless it is the HTP kit, it will mimic the complexity of the RCC kit. This is just to show how simple the HTP setup is compared to the RCC setup, which requires running a handful of fuel hoses all over. Instead of a single fuel line to the injector rail.

I see, the HTP Pump has the fuel pump, filter and regulator all in one.

For the RCC systems, I would have thought the fuel pressure regulator would connect to the fuel pump to tell it how much to increase pressure. It makes sense that the regulator gets input from some kind of vacuum/boost sensor but from the diagram, it looks like the regulator is taking fuel away that has already been pumped and sending that fuel back to the fuel tank. ...or is that how it regulates? ... it shuts down flow back to the tank when the boost is high, opens up flow back to the tank when boost is low.

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/3/2025 @ 2:16 PM *

Right so the whole fuel system is pressurized by the fuel pump. From the pump all the way to the injectors. The pressure regulator is T'd off of the main fuel line to send fuel back to the tank past 43 PSI (plus 1 PSI per PSI of boost).

It's an effective setup. However, my fuel hoses are already cracking (another gripe about RCC's kit) and the system adds a lot of weight and complexity. Removing and reinstalling the gas tank is a little complicated. Also the rubber fuel hoses supplied aren't going to withstand ethanol fuels for very long.

I think I will change my fuel system to the HTP setup for simplicity, weight reduction, and Ethanol compatibility. I will also be changing my fuel line to be PTFE hoses for a near infinite lifespan on the hoses for any fuel.

For someone adding a turbo to their bike, the HTP pump is about the same price as RCC's fueling kit. It's an easy choice between the two for me. Reduced weight, very simple to install, ethanol-compatible, same cost, added fuel pressure gauge.

* Last updated by: danmin on 11/5/2025 @ 10:38 AM *

Late to the game, but I second the HTP setup if you haven't gone that route already. Besides the super easy installation (hooks directly to stock fuel connectors), it uses high end Fuelab parts instead of generic no-name pumps and stuff and to make it as compact as possible they basically took the bottom half off the Fuelab regulator and integrated it into their trick billet plate as one piece - slick!

I also do not recommend tuning strictly off stock ECU since while its possible, it does not see positive boost at all, and after crossing over the 0 vacuum threshold or 10% TPS the ECU swaps from MAP to Alpha-N style TPS vs RPM tuning which sucks for boost due to the dramatic difference in fuel requirements between light load at XXXX RPM vs high load/boost at the same RPM. A 1:1 regulator alone was not nearly enough fuel to give me safe AFRs when in boost, and it was hitting 15:1 on the first test drive with just the 1:1 reg setup WITH +10% fuel added above 3k rpm on the TPS vs fuel map. I messed around with stock ECU+Woolich+wideband setup for a while before biting the bullet and ordering a PC5+3bar MAP to build a proper boost vs fuel table since I'm tired of being rich at low load/partial throttle to be safe under boost. The ECU ends up jumping from the low load IAP table during cruise to the high load TPS table and swinging from perfect to rich, which is not dangerous or anything but it is annoying and not the best for plug lifespan. Maybe someone better than myself could take the time to do a million data logs and slowly dial in both tables, but I'd much rather get a MAP sensor that can see boost and build a proper boost vs fuel table :). At that point of a build anyway, whats another few hundred dollars for a PCV/PC6 and a MAP???

* Last updated by: Puck on 1/8/2026 @ 8:06 PM *

I agree. This was a bandaid to my Maxx setup. The bike runs 95% perfect. A little more time on the dyno would make it perfect. A turbo can only behave so many ways under so many loads. If you keep the spring the same and have an experience tuner (BoomstuneHQ) you can get away with stock ecu tuning.

I'm going Maxx for the record... I'll have a 2012-2015 ECU tuned on 10# of boost and ID1050x injectors + wossner low comp pistons and a stock head. Could be reusable for anyone wanting something bolt-on for tuning

Sweet, my buddy who tunes EFI for our shop just linked me the new MaxxECU setup with the onboard nano. Might go that route for version2 when I decide to step it up and upgrade the internals.