Hello gents,
I picked up an Ivan's TRE from fleabay, and it didn't come with the plug at the harness end. So, I'm wondering if any of you may have that plug or can direct me to a place that can sell me that plug end.
It's the one that you de-pin the stock plug and move the 2 wires over to this plug and plug the TRE into.

Mad

https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?Type=13&make=hdmc&a=9&b=44&c=0&d=1981%20XLH%20SPORTSTER%20ELECTRICAL%20-%20WIRING%20AND%20MISCELLANEOUS

Lots of combos here, but you want something like 33-32-27. Crush the round to make it a flat female pin. Then use 33 and 32 to connect together as your plastic connectors, but you don't use any connector wire holders, just the ma/fe pins. Same glue stab at the crushed pins inside the OEM connector is to hold as well as shield. Use heat shrink over the hd pins so you do not expose them. That, or cover with glue so they both do not separate or ground, screw the shrink. Any hd dealer will have these usually. You could use later model pins. I just used these early style connectors, because I had some ma/fe hd pins around. Later models use other type pins so use this parts finder on later years to see if you can work with those. Then if you want to sell the bike, pull the male/female pins you crimped on those short pieces of wire, then reconnect the OEM like you never touched it.

I'd pull the glue off, the remote pins comes with it. That was my setup. I made 3 male/female remote wires, the 4th one I soldered a resistor I had around so it wasn't as if all 4 wires were just reconnected again. I needed to throw off the correct signal or it would never code the 6.

I'll give you a for example...

I back probed a wire out of the main ECU harness connector. Imagine if I left the connector alone and ran how many remote wires with ma/fe pins just to reconnect the harness to the black box? Sure enough, that one pin lost contact once I removed the mod/test. I moved the wire so it made contact at the dash, stabbed glue across the wires so that one wire kept its same angle to make contact.

That's why I don't want to depress the OE's pin in the connector. I rather make a remote wire with workable pins. HD has a beautiful connector. Just move the integrated arm down and the pin comes out.

There are many motorcycle wire connectors available from this place.

http://www.cycleterminal.com/motorcycle-connectors.html

Thanks to you both for the links.

Mad

I think I found the right plug on Cycle Terminals, ( Thanks Rook)
I bought both ends so I can just make up a new plug if I need to.

Mad

Hey Mad, from memory when I considered a TRE years ago there was one thing stopped me.
I was going to lose my gear selector.

Has that changed because I though the idea of the TRE was to trick the bike into thinking it's always in the same gear.

Yannhi,nothing has changed... maybe.

Watch these 3 variables out of the shop manual:
1. Wire dangles out of connector = 6.
2. Connector not connected = 6.
3. Short/out of range signal = 6.

TRE = 6.
What is the most logical pick for a sensor to code?
Number 3 ~ signal out of range. Still connected, but out of range spits the 6.

Ivan does not offer a tre for the 2nd gen. Mother tea revised the system where it will code, but no timing hit like 1st gen.

VOES off an old harley was more like the father of the analog sensor. Love arguing with the hd types telling me it's an on off switch, when the book explains 3 timing curves. Remove the wire or vac hose off the switch, now you can call it a on/off switch. At start/idle/low rpm, timing was 10°. Past 2k rpm, it snapped to 55° and everyone thought it was more performance, but it just coded to a digital 10 to 55 seat of the pants 6.

And there you have it... as if saying you removed the hd's 40° smooth transition to full advance. I bought the shop manual before the bike came out. Studied the code page. Got an old harley manual and read the VOES [variable operating electric switch] abstract... came to this conclusion. Don't know if it's right or wrong, but it sure makes sense to my way of thinking; limp/check engine light/backup/fail-safe.

Hey Mad, from memory when I considered a TRE years ago there was one thing stopped me.
I was going to lose my gear selector.

Healtech makes the GIpro that allows you to select any gear map you want or turn the TRE off and it has its own gear indicator display. There was a member who had one for sale a while ago and I think he still has it. It was the older version with the larger display. Give out the call if your interested. Might be worth a try instead of buying a new connector.

Hit Danno up. If you don't I still might.

https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=7031382F-0C33-3AFA-A75BDD5EC0952660&page=0&searchTerm=GIpro&show=0

I'm not real concerned about the gear display. I usually know what gear I'm in by the sound of the motor and
how it behaves. And, ever since I installed a SpeedoHealer, my bike only shows 6th for a moment then goes back to 5th.

Mad