Rook thanks for the Autotune tutorial, very well written. I have a question when autotuning on a bike that has been flashed (in my case by Ivan). When installing a PC5 on top of the Flashed ECU and setting up for autotune I assume you start with a 0 map in the PC5, is this correct? On my 2012 14R Ivans flash is so damn good (smoothness, drivability) that the only thing I am interested in autotuning for is tuning adjustments in the 80% to 100% throttle range for adjustments at the drag strip. This being the case I would not enter a target A/F in any cell below 80% ,correct, and use the 80% to 100% throttle cells to enter target A/F numbers??

* Last updated by: jstewart on 9/19/2020 @ 4:57 PM *

YES on all.

Start with a map having a fuel table with zero in every cell. That is NO adjustment to what the ECU has programmed for fueling. It's the same as having no PC on the bike.

Enter your chosen target AFR(s) in ONLY the cells of the AFR table you want to tune. If you don't want to tune AFR for the lower TPs and lower RPM, leave those target AFRs at zero and Autotune will not generate any trims for those cells.

After your run with Autotune active, You will have the trims Autotune suggested to approach the target AFRs in your Trims table. Accept the trims and those will be transferred to your fuel table. Now the bike will run with those trims applied to whatever numbers are programmed in your ECU. Do a few more runs and your trims table should be coming back with all -2, -1, 0, 1 and 2. That's about as perfect as you will get. I doubt you will ever get a trims table of all zeros. Every run is different, the air the temp, the humidity, everything.

I don't think it is wise to choose a large range for your trims. That will allow a large change in fuelliing and it might be in the wring direction. I believe what I did was start out with +/-20% and after that I reduced the range to help preserve the adjustments I had made in previous runs. Once you have small numbers in your Trims table, you don't want to screw those up by accepting a large trim that might be wrong. Autotune bounces back and forth, it does not always make an improvement in every cell of every run. Sometimes it goes the wrong way ad it is not quick enough to correct itself. That is why you need to do multiple runs.

Also remember Autotune doesn't work while you are decreasing TP. You must hold the throttle at the TP you want to tune and then LET GO when you reach the end of your run. That will be rough at 160 mph. The front suspension jumped rapidly on me at 180 in 6th gear and I will not be letting go of the throttle at that speed ever again. I suggest grabbing the clutch lever as you let go of the throttle. The autotune ON/OFF switch would also be a handy item to hook up so you can stop Autotune before rolling off the throttle.

It takes practice. It will be hard to go for your best times using Autotune. Maybe after practicing a while. I got to be capable with it but to tell you the truth, I was more focussed on tuning than anything else which is not real safe.

It will also be beneficial to do your runs in 6th gear if possible. Slower acceleration allows Autotune more time to narrow in on the trims. Lower gears still seem to work though.

Another thing that is best for Autotune is to have a unified gear map in your ECU. I do not know if flashers do this or not. Otherwise, you would be best to use Autotunes tune/gear capability which is something I have not tried yet.

Thanks Rook, good advice. I used autotune previously after working with Don Guhl to develop a flash for my VFR 1200 Honda. The big mistake I made was Rolling out of the throttle with the AT still active because I did not realise I was contaminating my readings.

Thanks Rook, good advice. I used autotune previously after working with Don Guhl to develop a flash for my VFR 1200 Honda. The big mistake I made was Rolling out of the throttle with the AT still active because I did not realise I was contaminating my readings.

Let me know if you have more questions.