In the first 3 gears once I hit about 6-7k rpm the clutch starts to slip catch slip catch. Now I know this isn't a bad clutch as the bike only has 2600 miles on it, plus in the higher gears the clutch doesn't slip. Now I just changed my front sprocket and read that the slave piston can sometime come out when removed, so I am thinking the clutch must be partially disengages, just not enough to notice in lower rpm's. I have had this issue before in previous bikes, and the solution was to adjust the clutch cable, but being that this is a hydraulic clutch, how do you adjust it?

* Last updated by: soulja on 6/17/2011 @ 10:56 AM *

Its entirely possible your clutch is slipping. Kawasaki's service range is very wide, yours could have been on the low side when it was assembled and they ok'd it anyways.

Another possibility is you may be spinning the tire slightly. New sprocket = more torque.

It doesn't sound like you have a slave cylinder issue. It probably wouldn't get into gear in the first place if that were the case.

Either way, you should investigate it. If you continue to ride with a worn clutch, you could send fibers through the oiling system, and spin bearings. It's only a few bolts, pull your clutch cover, and pull the first few plates/fibers and make sure there isn't any abnormal wear, discoloration, etc.

Your hydraulic clutch has NO adjustments.Works or doesn't,like Slow said.Slipping?While accelerating?Hard accelearating?

IF the slave piston came out...you would have seen fluid coming out as well.It will move when it's not being held by the shift rod....but installing it in a timely fashion will not harm anything.It will push back in when it's against the rod.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/17/2011 @ 12:28 PM *

Regarding spinning of the tires, are others experiencing this that have changed their front sprocket. Now that I think about it, it may be tire spin because when I had my ATRE turned off it didn't happen. Will retest to confirm. If it still slips I will check the clutch. If I do confirm that its the extra torque from enabling the ATRE then will stiffer springs cure the slipping?

You funny Soulja!"slipping tire"+"stiff spring rate"......Maybe you could just..........EASE UP ON THE THROTTLE a tad! BTW...

And MAYBE.....I could just STFU!!!!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/17/2011 @ 12:51 PM *

I guess it will come down to two causes. Either the clutch is crapping out and sprocket combined with the ATRE is cause it to slip now, or the clutch is fine and the sprocket and ATRE is cause the wheel to spin.

You guys with the flies out and 16t sprocket, are you getting wheel spin or clutch slip? I would think it would be more pronounced with flies out.

Okay....good question....but first...you say tire spin.Okay...under what circumstances are you possibly getting tire spin?Road surface....tires cold or warm?Slick cement road,or asphalt?They WILL spin under the right conditions regardless.16T front will increase acceleration..not torque or HP.So,you can get an increase in spin depending on how you're throttling.And WHEN you're throttling.AND....what kind of tire and tread do you have,and what PSI?

I know of at least ONE member here that got a tire spin at over 90 mph shifting.So....it can happen.This was with his passenger on board as well.I don't know his gearing combo at the time,but these babies definitely can do some amazing things under the "right" conditions.

IF your clutch is working fine,then begins to take a dump after everything warms up good...it may be actually having a problem.But if it's working and shifting into first okay...and holding while accelerating,then it very well COULD be tire spin.What's your rear sprocket size?A 16t+42 or 43 will spin much easier than your stock gearing.Going to a 16t will increase your likelihood of tire spin.Any mod(flies out,timing advance,gearing,Throttlemod(Rifleman's),or low end power mapping with or without pipes WILL produce a snappier response.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/17/2011 @ 3:10 PM *

My mods are just a full Micron Serpent system, PC3, ATRE, and 16t front, stock rear. Well, I have confirmed that it can't be tire spin. It slips in all gears when getting high in the rps range of course it take a little more in 4,5, and 6. I guess I am going to have to crack open clutch and take a look. Do 14's have weak stock springs. I remember haveing weak stock springs on my 05 12r. Maybe Kawi used the leftovers for the 14.

On another note, it the clutch doesn't have to warm up good to start slipping. I can hop on the bike and do it at will. The throttle is just a simple smooth rollon and once it hit a certain rpm the bike starts jumping.

Upon further pondering. I am not sure this is clutch slipping. Cause I remember with clutch slipping the rps would jump for a quick second. This feeling is like the bike hitting the rev limiter. Hmmmm????????? Any thoughts?

Okay...NOW...we're getting somewhere!!"Hit a certain RPM and the bike starts jumping"....WHAT is the ATRE deal?I've heard about it...but have no idea what it's supposed to do(bypasses the timing retard?)...remove the ATRE...now go ride.See what she does.NEXT....Unplug your powercommander.See what she does....BEFORE you start jumping into the clutch(at your mileage...it's probably JUST getting broken in )Take the other "possibles" out of the equation FIRST.They're much easier to "unplug" than chasing and trying to rip yer clutch pack apart and all that.IMO...yer clutch is PERFECTO!!!Sounds to me"certain RPMS" like it's more a fuel issue OR electrics(speed limiting somehow,maybe?)What exactly DOES it do when yer having this problem?IF you increase or stay on the gas,WHAT does it do?Meaning...staying on the gas or increasing for more than just"a clutch slip" deal.IF you punch it when it starts doing this...what happens?Does it sputter...cough...what?RPMS go up and hold steady?Or sounds like it's dying for fuel?Maybe AIR?How's the air filter?Any exhaust smoke when it starts this deal?If so,what color?

Seriously...it could be something VERY SIMPLE.

My clutch at one time DID actually start slipping..it was a replacement clutch master cylinder unit...a "new" one...but it was defective.If I recall correctly...the symptoms were very similar to yours....but the engine never coughed or anything...like a rev limiter as you're describing.It would slip...and you could clearly feel it slipping and all.And hear it.AND..this is important...the LEVER feel was soft and spongy,not firm and snappy like new.I'm not suggesting this is your problem...I don't think it is at all.

I'd go with "removing" the do-dads first(PC,ATRE)...one at a time...see if it clears up.

IF your clutch lever action feels right...I would steer clear of assuming it's the clutch pack.This bike is well know for it's "indestructable" clutch.Not that it can't happen...but these birds aren't known for having failing clutches!Maybe 2600 miles of Dragstrip launches..ya...that would maybe be it...BUT.....

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/17/2011 @ 4:57 PM *

It very well may be the ATRE cause I didn't have the jumping when I put the ATRE in normal mode. This is when it doesn't open the subthrottle early. I will give it a test ride again and see.

Hmmm....I knew this would be easy!Good one...you solved your broken clutch!

Okay, so I took it down the rode and had the ATRE in normal mode. The bike revved up the rpms no problem. I guess next. I will recheck all of the connections and make sure they are secure. If so, and it still show the same symptoms, I may just send it back as defective and pull the flies out. I was going to pull the flies, but I stripped the first screwed and just wimped out. Figured, I would just settle for an ATRE.

"stripped a screw"...you aint the first my man!There's a good write up with pics here somewhere about takin those out.Might want to read again and go for it.Go for it....SLOWLY.Then you can have your power,response,gear indicator..oh yeah.And get that PC re-mapped for NO FLIES/Aftermarket Exhaust.

You can still EASILY get that stripped screw out(well,the plate anyway).Ever use a dremel?Seriously....you can dremel that screw top off,then unscrew the rest of em.Gotta go slow with it all.Grease up that barrel good,all around where the dremel might throw chips or whatever;put a clean rag under the actuator arm(on top of the primary plate)(covering the intake).GENTLY grind a little at a time till the plate will slide up and over the drilled screw shank.JUST BE SURE TO NOT OPEN THE plates,and clean the barrel REALLY WELL before buttoning her up.Take yer time loosening those others...and use a steady amount of turning/downward force while loosening.Do Not let the arm move,or you'll slip with the driver....and end up jamming the driver into the barrel.Be careful...slow..steady.Heat the driver tip till VERY VERY HOT.Set the tip into the screw grooves.Let the screw heat up.Then turn,slowly.They should all come out "easily" doing it this way.Won't hurt to heat the engine up either before you do it.A nice short ride ought to be enough to get everything expanded in the engine area.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/17/2011 @ 7:17 PM *

weird, i've never heard of that happening.

The reason I thought tire spin is because you said the first 3 gears. That's where the most torque multiplication is happening.

Once you said it happens worse in the high gears, I would have said clutch slippage. More load on the clutch.

To answer your question about springs, if you're over 200lbs buy the brock's clutch spring spacers, or a heavier spring. If you're under 200 lbs, you shouldnt have any problems.

Hmmm, well I am 255lbs, maybe 270 suited up, so I could be possible that with the ATRE enabled, the extra torque plus my weight is causing slight slips. Maybe?

Possible i suppose. I would definitely look into stiffer springs (around $100) or the spring spacers (around $25)

If not, you will be replacing your clutch soon.

Okay, an update. I went to look things over and noticed that the bolt on the reservoir was not tightened all of the way so my ground was just sitting there on the bolt. I then just went ahead and put the ground on the part of the frame that Rook posted on here somewhere. I dremeled the paint off like he said and tightened the ground. Then I took the bike out, turned on ATRE and let it rip. No more "slipping" feeling and it pulled through the rpms without an issue. I am then thinking, SWEET!! It's fixed! I turn around and head back to the house. As I started riding over a bumpy part of the road the bike started surging on and off. I am thinking maybe I am turning the throttle some by accident while going over the bumps. Just to be sure I turn around and head down the road again. Then all of a sudden the bike just dies and I then coasted to a side road. When I tried to start the bike it would not respond. No starter noise or anything. This was with the clutch level pulled and in first. Then I put it in neutral and tried to start it. It tried and stopped. I then hit the starter and cranked the throttle at the same time, similar to give a car gas to start up, and it fired up longer, ran for about 5 seconds, and then turned of, so I sat there a minute. Then it started up normally. Took it back to the house,totally confused. As it stands now. I checked the PC connection to make sure they were secure. I even started the bike and unplugged the ATRE to see if it would cause the bike to turn off, and the bike still ran with the ATRE unplugged, so that is not the issue. Thinking it may still be the ground. I took a piece of wire, and secured it to the battery negative ground on the right side of the bike and ran it over to the left and have it secured with the PC ground on the right side of the bike. I just took it out for a mile or so and no problems, but still very paranoid that the symptoms could occur again, that I may not ride it to work (32 mile each way) tomorrow. Can't imagine it cutting out on my while in the middle of the freeway.

Possible that the bumps jogged your tip over or kickstand sensor. If you tried to re-start it without cycling the key it wont do anything. After you cycle the key It will work, i believe. Or something like that

I am starting to think it may be the ATRE. I remeber this happening with my 07 ZX10r cutting out a few times while riding. I had an ATRE on that bike too. I also noticed a member name ninjamaster experiencine similar issues, and he happens to have the GIPRO ATRE installed also. HMMMM???????

Do you have the stock clutch lever?
I bought an aftermarket one and the clutch slipped like you described because the lever was not designed right.
I got an updated lever part from the manufacturer and it's fine now.

I am starting to think it may be the ATRE.

Ya don't say! Really? I can't believe it! Can't be! No way! Hey, did that asshole show up and gonna spank us for fucking with snowflake? Fucking bulletproof comes out the crate all toned and able baby. She squidly comes alone with a bear shitter.

Say, I'm HA gonna throw thisayshit on my bike an pull over for half a day drain my battery away.

Hub,

As many posts as I have read of yours, I still don't understand you. :)

There's a pretty heated argument about TRE's in another thread.

Basically, Hub is saying "take the TRE off your bike, the bike no-likeys"