I lost the original key after i had made some copies...the copied key will not unlock the seat but works fine in the ignition...ive filed the shank of the key thinking it may not be going in far enough but no luck...anyone know a trick to opening the seat latch?

Have you pressed down on the seat? Push down at the front of the rear pillion. This usually helps if you can't turn the key.

Have you pressed down on the seat? Push down at the front of the rear pillion. This usually helps if you can't turn the key.

Forgot to hook up the rear seat lock cable to my busa once and put the hump back on. No way to unlock it except unbolt front seat and shove my skinny wrist back there between the tupperware to trip the lock by hand. It was painful and frusterating but it worked and no damage to the bike.

Interesting story but I'm afraid the 14 is not going to be so forgiving. You got yerserlf a fuking DI-lema here. The passenger and pilot seat is all one piece so no help removing one or the other. To make matters worse, you have two locks, middle and rear. Both locks cable off the same key hole. To make matters even more worse, we have a perfectly useless plastic cover bolted over that key mechanism. There's no way you will get your hands on that thing to twist the cable pull for both front and rear locks even if you were able to access it without tearing up the LH tail pod.

Looks like the least stressful way to do this would be to get the key code and buy a blank key from a Kaw dealer. should have a new OEM key in a few days. Plan B is cut the LH tail pod off, remove the plastic lock cover and turn the key mech by hand. Never tried this---just surmising here. I can look at my bike to see how this would work for you if you want.

OEM key---$2.00

Used OEM automic silver tail pod off Ebay, LH side possibly having minor paint damage (almost a gaurantee it's up for sale cuz it was dropped on the LH side), you should get for $40 without the blinker light which you could salvage off the fairing you have. I have worked with Dominic from the Chop Shop on Ebay recently and he's good people. Otherwise, I imagine a new OEM airing off BikeBandit or someone like that will cost you about $90.

You see the cable to the middle underseat area and another cable to the back of the seat in front of the tail light.

Here's the key mechanism on the LH side. Cover off. I imagine you could grab it and twist to pull the cables. Can check for you if you want since I have this cover permanently removed.

Just for kicks, morg, try pulling up on the back of the seat cowl. Sometimes the rear lock does not engage. You'd be a little bit ahead of the game if this was the case...but I'd just go for a new OEM key if I were you.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/9/2016 @ 4:43 PM *

^^^What you would need to do, morg is to pull the cables at the key mechanism the same way they would get pulled by the key turn. That would release the seat locks but of course, it usually relieves a lot of tension on the parts if you press down on the seat while working the key mechanism.

Thanks for the advice...where do i find the key code?...gonna go that route...

hopefully it was written in the owners manual and you have that. If so, any dealership can get you a fresh key. If you do not have the key code, it will take some proof you own the bike but you should be able to get an OEM key from the dealership the bike was purchased from when brand new. They probably have the key code on record but they don't go making a key for anyone unless they own the bike. That usually is verifiable by the customer presenting the key code. Seems like a dealership is the place to go for more info. You need a key. Even if you get seat off, you will have to put it back on at some point.

Little side note, I plan to remove the seat locks and use the bolt that secure the front lock to anchor the seat. I will be cutting down an OEM seat very thin like a drag racing fairing and then just run some bolts right through. couple bolts heads will be stuck in the seat but I can make em look like buttons. My busa's front seat is held on with bolts and it works out fine. The ZX-14 seat lock bolts are a mm smaller in diameter than the busa seat bolts but should be safe--the seat lock bolts are what holds the seat now, they just hold the lock, too. $60 you can get a used OEM seat on Ebay.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/9/2016 @ 7:30 PM *

I like that plan. I'd like to go keyless in the future.
Do you have any pics of your modified seat Rook?

Key pushed in all the way, slap the back of the seat (look at Rook's pic of the seat latch) and slam it hard like you've seen some long lost buddy and have the key loaded. Same slap, move the key just a little out. And I mean just a hair. Try that. My fit and finish was so good I'd drop the seat on and it would drop and lock.

Do you have any pics of your modified seat Rook?

I'd like to find a way to make a storage compartment like the Sargent storage pod but with no lock, and hide the bolts under the cover with a hollowed out passenger seat underneath to allow a little bit of storage and easy access to the electronics.
Has anyone made something similar before?

LOL we're thinking the same. To my knowledge, no one has yet converted the stock seat cover to a pop open storage compartment. I've been planning this for years. Seems like it would need to hinge at the back and have some dzus fasteners at the the front on each side. Could be done. Cut out the passenger seat and you have a large storage area with quick access to electronics. I have PC5, SpeedoHealer and Autotune under there. Unfortunately, the Ignition Module will not reach with the wire DJ put on it. I will need to mount it on the ram air tube and use an extra long CAN cable to connect to the DJ modules under the seat. Eventually I will figure out how to lengthen the Ignition Module wire from the engine harness so the module can be located under the seat with the other stuff.

Vic has carved out his passenger seat foam and is able to stuff items under the seat cowl.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/6/2016 @ 9:07 AM *