I just thought I'd share a link to this immensely cool seller of after market parts for the ZX-14. A lot of us scoff at the possibilities to drop weight off the bike and I'm going as far as to agree, you're probably not going to be able to ride a 14 faster if it's a lot lighter. I reduced the weight of my Gen1 by 80 lbs and just watching the speedo, the Hayabusa I own which is much closer to 100% stock is no worse at cornering. My new 2024 14R even with stock exhaust and mufflers....it really doesn't handle a lot different than my modded Gen1. That Gen1 that was 20% lighter sure felt good though. It's cool stuff and it does change the character of the bike at least as far as the riding experience goes.

Enjoy browsing over this stuff and I'll share the joy with you if we end up buying some of the same parts.

https://www.agmotorsports.net/kawasaki-zx14r

Didn't know where to put it...

https://www.tomfordlaw.com/new-2026-kawasaki-ninja-zx-14r/

The article is about the 2026 14R and the the photo's of a ZX-400 but it's an honor to have it put here, Hub. The 2026 ZX-14R remains unchanged for fourteen years. Mother Tea's getting her mileage out of that design. I'd ride the hell out of a ZX-4. It would be a great bike for my kid though she'd have to learn on a DT-100 which is another bike I have own.

Awesome.
I have 14'' Delkevic slip on's on the way,
that will probably be the biggest weight reduction
item for my bike. (ZX14R)
What are the other 'key' items for the largest
additional weight savings?
(I'm not giving up my bar end weights, do they make
a 2lb bar weight that's half the weight? )

* Last updated by: Stratovarious on 11/16/2025 @ 4:38 AM *

What are the other 'key' items for the largest
additional weight savings?

I always go with the full system single muffler for the best exhaust weight loss. You get a little more power too.

A lithium battery is a big weight loss too. I used Shorai in the past but there are lots more on the market now.

Wheels are expensive but they're the best weight loss dollar for pound there is. BST is the standard for carbon fiber wheels but I'd consider RotoBox if you can live with the looks. Core Moto is what to go to for forged aluminum and they look incredible.

Mirror block off plates and a bar end mirror shaves at least a lb. Brock's CF mirror blocks are the lightest but there are cheaper CF block off plates available. A set of aluminum plates is even good. Any cheap bar end mirror will be as good as an expensive one. I tried CRG mirrors and cheap ones off Ebay. There's about zero difference.

I don't notice a difference with light aluminum bar ends and you don't have to spend a lot to get them. The OEM bar end weights are dead weight AFAIC.

Billet side stand.

Billet gas cap.

Aluminum rear sprocket.

PAIR system and install block-off plates.

Kevlar brake and clutch lines. Stainless steel braided won't weigh less than OEM.

Horn delete.

Rubber engine and air box blankets delete.

Carbon fiber, ABS or ZX-10 front fender conversion.

Rear fender delete with home made license plate brackets.

Reflectors delete.

Chain guard delete.

Coolant pipe harware delete.

Oil cooler delete. Never tried it but heard the oil cooler doesn't do much anyway and it's heavy.

All the fasteners that can be exchanged for aluminum. There's plenty I'd only go with Ti on but Ti is really expensive.

There are lots of small brackets that can be removed. A zip tie does the trick just as well in some cases. Other times, if you can fab out an aluminum bracket, that works as well as the steel OEM one.

Pirelli tires.

CF fairings weigh less but for the cost, it's almost splitting hairs compared to OEM fairings.

OEM footrest assemblies and levers are very light weight. Aftermarket stuff is cooler but it's heavier.

Those are the main ones. I have a thread on here that details all my weight loss mods if you'd like a link.

Plastic cover between top engine and front wheel delete.

Plastic triple tree cover delete.

Hot wind covers delete.

front directional light brackets delete.

There's a pile of stuff you can just remove as you go through the bike.

Front headlight delete....never did it but I see AGMotorsports makes a CF headlight block-off and you can get it with light weight LEDs for daytime visibility. IDK how they'd work for nighttime riding. Our stock headlights weigh a ton.

Belly pan and bracket...that's another good one.

Wheels are expensive but they're the best weight loss dollar for pound there is. BST is the standard for carbon fiber wheels but I'd consider RotoBox if you can live with the looks. Core Moto is what to go to for forged aluminum and they look incredible.

The Gen1 OEM rear wheel is 19 lbs 1.6 oz bare. No valve stem, sprocket, rotor, sprocket nuts or rotor bolts. I never weighed the front. The Gen2 I believe has somewhat lighter wheels than the Gen1. Mt Carrozzeria rear wheel was 12 lb, 6.3 oz with steel valve stem. My Carrazzeria front was about 8 lb, 2 oz. Carrazzeria quite making that extremely light wheel for the ZX-14. I actually think I got the last set that ever came off the factory. They went to a heavier wheel and that's still the wheel that is made for the 14 by Core Moto who bought out Carrazzeria. The new wheel has heavier spokes. I'd say they each weigh about a pound more than my Carrazzeria Tri-Rs.

IMV the aftermarket 'weight-saving' vendors should not even
list a product for a specific bike without including
the OEM weight of any given item, they surely know to the last
1/10th of gram what each OEM piece of gear weighs or
they wouldn't be in the business in the first place.

I agree. WebbikeJapan does a fair job of listing weights. Most suppliers will tell you the shipping weight but a 9 oz part with packaging might ship as a 1 lb part because they round up. If a part is really among the lightest and that was a focus of developing the part, you can be pretty sure they and their vendors will list the weight.

Most suppliers will tell you the shipping weight but a 9 oz part with packaging might ship as a 1 lb part because they round up. If a part is really among the lightest and that was a focus of developing the part, you can be pretty sure they and their vendors will list the weight.

I'm not super happy
with the sound, sweet, but not at all loud

I had the same reaction to my friend's Grave's slipons. It sounded great but it was quiet. I'm sure it can get louder at higher rpm. My expectations are based on a Tsukigi full system. That sucker was loud as hell. It was even embarrassing to me before I did the PAIR bock. The neighbors definitely heard it even at idle. It was louder than any Harley I ever heard and I'm not exaggerating. I have a Brock's full system waiting to go on the bike here. The weight is spectacular and the performance enhancement is top notch. I'm hoping it will be almost as loud as that CANNON I had on my Gen1. I once knew a guy who had fifty dollar exhaust tips for a car welded onto his stock exhaust. It was loud. I don't think it was as loud as my CANNON. They must have done something to amplify the sound with that exhaust because it was loud.

I have rear frame sliders coming in a few days, to
help in case I drop the bike.

Do you mean axle sliders? I had those front and back on my Gen1 and they never got a scratch even in a high speed crash. ...not a bad precaution for a garage tipover and that's the only reason to have any frame sliders on the 14 IMO.

One thing that is odd to me is that my oems's were
super rigidly mounted, the hangers for this set are
kind of 'free' wheeling... they're held pretty good
with the hanger but their not super tight and rigid
to the frame mounts.

They must be shorties otherwise they would be supported by the OEM exhaust hanger. My Brock's CT Meg has a steel bracket that weighs about 1 lb. You trade performance for strength. Pick your poison.

I have no idea why the right side exhaust has a
center of assembly hanger, while the left side only
has the one up where the muffler attaches to the
frame mount piece, very strange.

I'd have to see it but my guess is that the ZX-14 exhaust is arranged over to the right to rout around the oil pan sump. There's a frame bung on the right to support the entire exhaust after it splits off into two after the 4-2-1. That is the OEM setup so it should work fine for a much lighter aftermarket exhaust. ...but yes, assuming these are shorties, it would seem appropriate to have something to support the left muffler.

My advice always after numerous enquiries: get a single muffler full system. In most cases, it costs about the same as a set of slipons. It makes more power and it allows easy access to the drive chain. It lacks the symmetry of duals but it carries the traditional race aesthetic. If you're shopping price, you might get a deal on slipons but I bought my Tsukigi full systems for $600 each. That was 13 years ago but it was still about half price. My Brock's CT Meg full system was $2000. Worth it because I'll have no reason to replace it.