Well, for me anyway, this isn't even a consideration since my bike doesn't sit long enough for the effects of ethanol to "work its magic" on my engine. I just gas'n'go.

I use Gumout Maximum about every 3000 miles.Two applications back to back.1/2 bottle..fill tank.Run down to refill...add second 1/2 bottle..fill tank.

Sea Foam about every 2 or three fills. I just pour in a couple ounces to a full tank for routine cleaning. For prolonged storage, I go 1 ounce / gallon of gas as recommended on the label.

Nope never, and I have never had any probs either......

What I do is use the best fuel available, 98 octane stuff mostly (I figure its cleaner burning) and I NEVER fill up at a 7-11, liberty or other 'plain wrapper' service station.

I also never fill up at a station where theres a tanker pumping at the time.

OZ

Tanker Pumping....excellent!Wonder how many people know about THAT one.I figure....plain wrapper(like conoco or stop an go,along those lines)is the best way to get fresh fuel.People always buyin fuel from em.98 octane....geez.....no such animal around here.92's the highest I've seen.And now....they're posting"contains NO ethanol".....anyone know what that's about?Good or bad?Just started seeing those stickers since about three weeks ago here.

blue07: I use Gumout Maximum about every 3000 miles.Two applications back to back.1/2 bottle..fill tank.Run down to refill...add second 1/2 bottle..fill tank.
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Rook: Sea Foam about every 2 or three fills. I just pour in a couple ounces to a full tank for routine cleaning. For prolonged storage, I go 1 ounce / gallon of gas as recommended on the label.

I'll be adding a little SeaFoam now and then.

* Last updated by: DZINURZZ on 5/22/2010 @ 12:01 PM *

you go to the right shell service station you can get 100 octane here.......

Not a big fan of the 'ethanol' thing either. I have heard stories about it doing nasty things to the inside of peoples fuel systems, and over here, plain wrapper service stations have a rep for mixing ethanol with their fuel and buying it where ever they can get it the cheapest, meaning that it varies greatly in quality.

This is why I stick to BP, mobile, shell or caltex

OZ

you go to the right shell service station you can get 100 octane here.......

From a post with pics i was following last year, it seemed the high octane premium gas was what caused the varnish inside the injectors. I use premium almost all the time and that's why I run a little Sea Foam treatment through every now and again. I've never seen the inside of my fuel system after 17000 miles so i guess that is an indication that it is not getting clogged.

I think using 90 or higher octane as recommended by Kawi is going to protect you from detonation. I can tell the difference between premium and mid-grade by how much my exhaust pops from unspent gas. It is worse with lower octane. Wouldn't want that to happen in my motor.

Low octane gas burns more completely. Still, I don't notice any difference in power between Premium and Midgrade. The only reason to run low octane gas is because it is cleaner. It isn't cheaper if it causes engine damage from detonation. RAce fuel is high octane so that the engine can be run at peak performance at high temp without having detonation problems.

Premium gas + a good fuel system cleaner once in a while = best of both worlds -- safe, high performance fuel that won't gum your engine. I feel it's a good investment.

For storage, I always drained the gas out of the carbs and empty the tank; let both dry during winter storage. If you only knew how easy it is to prep a computer bike as easy if not easier than a carb'd bike the same way. I do not add chemicals unless added by the gasoline engineers at the pump. I've heard all the stories from race gas decomposing the inner coating spray in the tank that prevents rust. That right there is going to get sucked up in the pump and jam behind some injector like making sausage out of that meat grinder with the multi-holesqueezing out that shit.

Then the other horror stories about a cleaner with some chemical and another cleaner without the chemical and this stops the other cleaner from melting the bake around the coil windings of the injector so the electric pulse width can hold that pintle open, to spray said duty cycle time with paint sausage licking the side and center electrode is good job you had to clean what?

I spend my additive money on pee saw. Saw that elixir you could not resist. Will the injector clog or narrow the hole? Yep. Better read the label and make sure it won't take the house paint off, you drop the can.

* Last updated by: Hub on 5/22/2010 @ 10:28 PM *

Ya...I'm careful about what I'm runnin in there as well.The gumout,OR techron has worked well for cleaning carbon and stuff out.(Just a guess on that...but my plugs look perfect when I've checked em.Exactly the color and condition they should be)...so I think the cleaners work?Winter....throw 1/2 bottle stabil in there,take er over and fill er up,let er run for 5,10 minutes.Good to go till Spring.Never had any starting probs or gumming with that stuff.I couldn't even IMAGINE going through the work of pulling the tank every year,draining,and all that.No thanks.My tank looks fine inside.Nice and silvery like new.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 5/22/2010 @ 11:43 PM *

I have a little sticker on my bike that says it needs a minimum of 95 octane fuel......

Different setups for different markets I guess.

OZ

I ripped my sticker off a long time ago but my manual says anti-knock rating of no less than 90. The higher the rating the safer you are from detonation.