So i'm new here. Not a new rider though i mostly rode cruisers. My bike before my victory XC was a 2015 Z1000. Loved that bike but wanted a cruiser again. Now i have the funds to have a sport and cruiser. I've been shopping around. I want the 1441cc newer design. I've found an 18 with 1200 miles for 10k and a 13 with 7k miles for $6500 not sure which way to go, both are all stock. Any big differences in the years? 
Second question will be. What's the best mod for your buck power, drivability wise. On my Z1000 ivans ecu flash was awesome made it so smooth and added a little power. Power i really won't think i'll need more of lol but does he do flashes on these? Or is there a guru for these? Thoughts? I'm not carver i just love the acceleration. My fun car is an 11 Camaro with a whipple pushing 700rwhp, That kinda fun

Welcome. Life is good when you have a cruiser and sport bike. Both have their place. In my case, I have a 10 Fatboy and a 15 ZX14R. The 12 Zx14R and up are basically the same with minor changes. Either would be a fine choice.

There is a lot of experience in this group regarding mods (understatement). For me, I don't really need more power so I only shed some weight by getting rid of the stock exhaust.

Enjoy the ride.

Thanks for the response. Good to know no major changes. I wouldn't need more power, when i did ivans flash on my Z it just made it incredibly smooth power and he gets rid of the fuel cut off which rids the on off throttle jerk, at least on those bikes. He raises the rpm 500rpm and rids the power limiters in lower gears. Looks like he does it for the zx14r as well. It was well worth the $375 on my Z. I'd probably do slip on as well the stock mufflers are so big bulky and ugly lol.

The 13 and 18 are basically the same bikes engine wise.

Sounds like you are going to be doing some power upgrades that would possibly give you warranty issues if the 18 still has any remaining warranty.

If you aren't picky with color choices are are OK with the color of the 13 I'd definitely go with the 13.

$3500 less not to mention cheaper insurance due to it being an older bike.

As for an ECU flash or reprogram, opinions vary.

Just do a search on the site and you'll come up with all kinds of info on the options.

JMHO.

Welcome to the site!

My 2013

BTW

I just had Schnitz Racing reflash my ECU.

Raised the rev limiter 500, Removed top speed limiter, opens up secondaries quicker, turns on fans sooner. No need to reset traction control every time.

$75 plus shipping. Shipped to and back in less than 5 days.

He can also reflash it to your pipes for $200(the $75 is included in that)plus shipping. I didn't opt for that because the bike is already powerful enough for me.

Anyway...............

Welcome. Had a 13 and now have a 17. Would not go back to the 13. The lower the miles the faster the wallet opens.

Would not go back to the 13

Why not?

Say the bike's model series is massaged as the years go by.
Say from a hand crank camera is a set of points; to an 8mm camera which is a CDI ignition; beta would be a throttle position sensor on a carb; and we ends with a sd card that evolves into fuel injection.

Say, would you go back to points and carbs? That's how I see it when throwing money at obsolete tech.

Ok, so the 2018 is $9750. The other one already sold but now there's a 2012 for $5500 with 8k miles bike is mint he says owned but an older guy just has slip ons.... for over 4k savings... 2012 seems to be more attractive. I like the 18s gray color but the 12 is all black which i also like.

Do this... you have the color you like, it's late enough, mileage on one of these really does not matter, if well maintained, and it's saving money. In other words, it's a cheap intro to the bike model. If you're impressed, which I would be surprised if you were not, then you can save up for the next new model. If not a whole new model type and if it's not faster (which I doubt); you have a bike beater unless; you come up against another one of these.

Yea for the price, $5500 for the 12 that's what i'm going with. It will be worth all of that for a few years yet. 9k miles on the motors should be like nothing.

Hub,

Say the bike's model series is massaged as the years go by.
Say from a hand crank camera is a set of points; to an 8mm camera which is a CDI ignition; beta would be a throttle position sensor on a carb; and we ends with a sd card that evolves into fuel injection.

Say, would you go back to points and carbs? That's how I see it when throwing money at obsolete tech.

So what are the differences between a 2013 model and a 2017 model? I'm talking about motorcycles not cameras.

As far as I can tell there aren't any?

Should there not be any, why spend more money on a newer bike (other than if it had considerably lower miles that would offset the extra cost)?

Your analogy didn't make sense to me????

Yea for the price, $5500 for the 12 that's what i'm going with. It will be worth all of that for a few years yet. 9k miles on the motors should be like nothing.

Good deal!

Post up some pics when you get it!

Which is when????

Heading out this morning to go look. Its 4 hours away so it better be worth the drive lol.

Green, walk if it's been crashed. It bends up the steering parts. Like the bike rides straight, but the bars veer to the right or left when looking down riding it.

BIG,
13: Open Loop (+) because you can tune/flash it with dynojet box or have it reflashed.
17: Closed Loop (-) because of the 02 in the loop, flash has to override the code, where some codes limp power.

13: No ABS (-) only if you're spoiled with staying upright with a locked front tire.
17: ABS (+) becomes standard at the end of the production run. I'm sold with all the pebbles at said stop sign.

13: A quick diagnosis (+) where if you install a coded part, it clears the dash within seconds.
17: A slow clearing (-) where it takes a lot of key turns before it clears the dash, short of dealer clearing it.

13: Performance mapping (+) the latest massage [seems like] where there are subtle changes including the ECU.
17: Just gets better (+) HP is no problem, we just open the faucet a year at a time and spread it over the map.

13: Nissan brake parts (+) where they are no problems with keeping costs down on a cocktail dress.
17: Brembo Special Edition (++) where the front master is race-production, but not race-race, but WOT a difference.

13: Idle cable (+/-) sure, nice to lower it for lowering the rpm for braking, not fighting a few hundred rpm's.
17: Vac/ECU idle (-/+) lost is the adjustment, but I don't miss it one bit. Can't beat E.

13: ECU's E (+) is the subtle jump in gens, where the mode buttons on first gen dash, moves up to the left switch.
17: E's ECU (only gets better) is just waiting for the next gen to have clutchless rev shifts, multi-axis Electronics, or whatever they come up with... WATT a dash that would be is touch screen next; no bulky switches.

* Last updated by: Hub on 4/11/2020 @ 6:27 AM *

Ahhh, didn't know there were that may subtle changes from the 13 to the 17.

Looks like there are pros and cons for each model year.

Looking at those changes , I'm perfectly happy with my 13 model.

The only thing I would like would be a set of the Brembo's from an SE model.

I've been half assed researching how to retrofit a set on my 13 model.

Although I don't believe they are THAT much better than the Nissin's with a good set of pads. I'd just be doing it for the hell of it and to make my bike different.

Personally, I'm not a fan of all the electrical nanny's on current bikes.

I have everything set as low as possible ( if not off) on my RSV4 and it has every nanny currently known to man on it! LOL

Thanks

well i bought it. I don't think it's been crashed it rode great and i the bars felt good. It had a low speed drop for sure tho. Tell tale scrape on the bar end on the right and the plastic is a little boogered up. The guy had bought it from his friend then hurt his knee and couldn't ride it he's 55. Might need a battery he kept it on a tender and after the 4 hour ride home when i went to start it, it cranked a little slow. It is a monster for sure. Pulls like q freight train. Reminds me of my Z1000 down low but the power increase as the rpms rise is crazy. I tried the traction control settings. 3 is stupid, maybe for the rain its helpful. 2 was better, 1 was best could pull the wheel up a bit sil even with it interfering. I didn't try it with it off. it's cold here so i only went for a short ride and only had the balls to wind up 2nd and 3rd on the highway...125 came fast that was enough for now lol. I probably will keep it this season and sell it. It's not a very comfortable position for me have to crane my neck looking up when both hands are on the bars. One handed is ok but puts decent pressure on the wrist. Think is a monster tho. Can't figure out how to post a pic

* Last updated by: Greenhornet2 on 4/11/2020 @ 5:24 PM *

Figured it out. It has a full muzzy exhaust. I don't think it was ever flashed tho. Fan doesn't kick on until a little over 200 degrees.

* Last updated by: Greenhornet2 on 4/11/2020 @ 5:29 PM *

Congrats. Let's say the bike was sitting, very little to no charge while in his possession. Where a 4 hour ride says the charging is fine, the battery is in question about how well it can hold the volts. Got a volt meter? If he didn't remove the tender tether, find the static volts there.
Say statically checked in the morning:
12.8~12.6v is a serviceable battery.
12.2~12.4v needs charging.
12.0~12.1v borderline replacement.
8.0~10v drop when reading off the tender tether, start the engine and note the drop in volts = Done.

I think they still make handlebar risers for this bike. My arms go numb at that stock position. Installed the risers and poof, can ride for hours on end.

Edit: Ah, sounds like it was too cold for a 4 hour ride home? Back to the tether. Set at the 20v scale, start it and let it idle. Say it spikes to 14.6v and then settle to 14.1v or more. Charging is fine, battery needs changing.

* Last updated by: Hub on 4/11/2020 @ 7:11 PM *

Yea it was 40 degrees, it got trailered home lol.

Congrats on your new bike!

Heli makes some bar risers for less than $100.

Simple install.

Here is a link to everything you would want to know about riser options

risers

Post up some more pics when you get a chance.

BTW That Muzzy exhaust is sweeeeet!

Full 4-1 Muzzy exhaust drops at least 35 lbs off the weight of the Bike.
You can add spacers under the handle bars. I added 2-1" on each side. I used Genmar spacers. I did flip the throttle cables and disconnected the brake hose from the triple tree.

Then I raised my hands 5" with converti-bars.

$5500 for the best motorcycle that Kawasaki built in 2012 is a bargain.
Enjoy it.

* Last updated by: doubleD on 4/14/2020 @ 12:39 PM *

How much work was it to get the cables and such to work with those 5" bars? I bet you're super comfortable now. I almost just went for a concourse instead but i really wanted to try the 14r out.

How tall are you? I'm 6'3" and I got a pair of riser blocks like doubleD from ebay for around $30.
( knock offs but it's just a chunk of aluminum). I'm very confortable now. And you can put a Concourse seat
right on there too. I think the ZX14 is one of the most comfortable hyper bikes ever made.

Mad

You can also get LSL Superbike bar kit, replaces the top tree and allows you to use any standard bar.

Mad