I have the Rostra cruise control install about done, except for 1 or 2 more test rides tomorrow. All in all it is a pretty straight forward install, excluding the ‘wonder’ component.
I followed these instructions, which are for a Kawasaki Concours 14. Save for wiring colors, the instructions appear the same for a ZX-14.
Purchased here:
http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=369
Instructions for Concours 14 here:
http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/docs/Rostra%20install.htm
and Jim's info, here:
http://www.sdb-e.com/RostraGL1100i.pdf
Setup is largely unmarked from the above instructions. Back tail light wire is blue/red, not just blue as on the Concours. Good instructions and photos. Kudos to Brian and Jim.
VSS setup:
During the setup there is a VSS (vehicle speed sensor) wire, gray, from the Rostra, to the pink of the Speed sensor, Figure 7 in Brian’s instructions. No matter what I did I could not get the diagnostic signal to correctly ‘test’ for this connection, despite there being correct continuity of the wire to the Rostra, and the bikes Speed Sensor being checked out by Kawasaki as within electrical specs. Thomas, of Rostra, going on the idea that this connection works for the Concours 14; he has no hands on practical experience with this - just going by what I told him of Brian's instructions, thought that the ‘brain’ was bad, and asked me to send it back in to the store I purchased it from. It has a three year warranty. This is the 'wonder' factor, is the box bad, or the VSS signal from the 14 different than the Concours? Rather than have such a long ‘wait’ time for shipping to Murph’s, he to Rostra, Rostra back to him, and he back to me, I decided to ‘test’ out another method of picking up speed signal, with a magnetic pickup coil and magnet set on the front wheel. That was about $30 shipped.
That setup worked. I’ll send the box off for replacement during a vacation. I purchased the magnetic pickup from Brandon Dist. That guy said to use 2 magnets if the diameter of the drive shaft was 3-4" or smaller. I initially put on 2 magnets, per instructions from Brandon Dist.
I put the magnets on the inner circumference of the front wheel with a little silicone. I used a bit to cover the entire magnet as well. The pickup and bracket go under the front fender, and to get this photo you have to be in just the right place. I’ll paint it black now that I know the setup works correctly. You can not see the bracket unless you are at the 'correct' angle.
Mounting locations for box (front) with bracket at rear on left intake wall, left bolt:
and cable bracket:
Basic touch pad, powered up post bike startup by relay:
Testing: After initial diagnostic testing of pad and signals, up to the VSS signal, which I could not get, and then the addition of the magnetic coil/magnets, which are not in the diagnostic, all was ready for a road test.
Set with the PIN settings of Brian's instructions, with the addition of the magnetic coil pickup changes:
During ‘testing’ of the cruise function, at low speeds, say 35-50, it was just 'passable’. On the highway at 60-90 the bike would cruise with surging, a real nuisance since the repetitive surges were about every 3 seconds, as soon as the bike slowed to 4-5 MPH below the ‘setting’, it would then speed up. No matter the changes to the gain pin switches (1 and 2) , or the cylinder pin switches , nothing notably really helped.
I played with the 7 pin, as Brian recommends, which changes the setup from 8 cyl to 4 cyl, not much difference. Then I used every setting in the ‘gain control (pins 1 and 2), and no help, gain control with all the cylinder settings (pins 7-9), and no help again. There were a few occasions of changing the cylinder settings, to 4 cyl 'high' and 'extra high', which then made the cruise control engage and continue to accelerate, seeming to no end, until I kicked it off. I set it back to 4 cly, 'low', where it is now.
I finally changed the PPM setting (pins 3-6), which were set per instructions at all OFF, a PPM rate of 2000, to a setting of 4000. That made the cruise perfect at high speeds, or any speed 50 MPH and above, though getting it set at 50-55 is not easy. You have to set to 60 and 'decel' backwards. 60 MPH and above it sets correctly, and rides just perfect. It is so smooth you feel like you are in a space ship warping along ! :)
But that setting changed the low end cruise ability, because where I could use the cruise control at speeds in the 30's and higher, 60 MPH was now the lowest I could set the control to, correctly, and 50 with a PITA.
I have added 2 more magnets, now totaling 4, and will see if I can lower the PPM to 2000 and get back low MPH cruise, and smooth as well. That test is for tomorrow morning.
A nice thing about this unit is that there are no canisters. Wire and mount the box and gadgets and you are done. If it were not for mod’ing the three brackets to ‘fit’ (box, cable to TB actuator and magnetic pickup), it would be about a 4-6 hour job. As it is, it took about 8 hours total.
I cut and welded the cable bracket so that it mounts behind the right side of the engine brace, angles in and down. The box bracket was simply shortened and bent to mount on the left intake, left mounting bolt.
Note: Though Brian, of the Concours instructions, states you can email him with questions, he did not respond to my wiring question, about his Figure 8, and text instructions for color of wire for the clutch switch. Text calls for “black wire with white dots” to the Rostra light green wire. The photo shows the ‘gray’ wire from the wiring harness to the Rostra light green wire. Use the ‘gray’ wire from the wiring harness to the Rostra light green wire. I would have also liked to talk to him about the VSS diagnostic he had.
Now I can cruise and have my right hand free for beer! 
* Last updated by: JDC on 6/8/2009 @ 10:08 AM *
