Just throwing this out there...
Any of y'all install this mod, and what is/was your experience?

https://store.schnitzracing.com/schnitz-oil-pump-system-upgrade-kawasaki-zx14r-06-26/

I had my local Kawi shop do this install for me (because I don't have time) and i'm pretty impressed with the overall turnout.

*edit*
I love how Schnitz says "there will be a slight whine as the gear sets"...I hope that sound sticks around, super cool wind up on acceleration!

* Last updated by: DTTyson on 11/7/2025 @ 3:49 PM *

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I chose the high pressure relief valve and the billet oil pump cover. I skipped on the gear, it puts more wear on your water pump and introduces more parasitic drag. I don't think it's a bad idea. A water pump is easier to replace than an engine.

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Anything empirical on this water pump wear, or is it more theoretical?
I trust y'alls feedback.

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Yeah, 19yrs the 14's been out and not an overheating/blown head gasket problem due to a water pump blade moving too slow.

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Fair, Hub, and duly noted.
But now i'm concerned that this mod will actually cause water pump or water pressure issues. I hadn't read anything to indicate this is a known side effect.
Has anyone in this community experienced this, or is this something of a more low probability issue to be cognizant of?

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Yeah, 19yrs the 14's been out and not an overheating/blown head gasket problem due to a water pump blade moving too slow.

That's true. We're trying to increase the oil pump volume though and the increased water pump volume is a side effect since the oil and water pumps share the same gear.

The oiling to the crankshaft bearings is rarely an issue but it's a common enough problem, we've all heard of it. Hub has a point though, nobody's ever reported a water pump failure. I'd stick with the gear. The real issue for me is that it's eating a hp when the relief valve and billet cover alone might be getting the job done just as well (and they might be eating a little hp too). I'd run the gear, DT. Try it out and see how you like it. A before and after oil pressure reading would be helpful but not even that would tell the full story. I've heard a builder say he personally witnesses oil gush out of the stock oil pump cover when he circulates oil in a dry engine. We know the stock relief valve opens at a lower rpm. If the gear increases oil pressure, I can't see how it can help but increase the amount of oil to the rod bearings. ...so I would have no problem running the gear if safety is the main concern. My idiosyncrasy is the small drag on hp but I'm the guy who worries about .02 ounces of weight in bolts. Send Schnitz an email and let us know what they tell you. I'll bet they'll say they use the whole kit on their race bikes. The idea of parasitic drag and water pump wear from the wheel was mentioned to me by 1bad many years back when I did the oil mods on my bike. He probably heard it from other people who race. There probably are opinions out there. It stands to reason but after all's said and done, none of it might be significant. I've never heard of a water pump burning out with or without the aftermarket gear. I've only heard of ZX-14s cooking a bearing if they didn't have oil mods, with or without the gear.

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Thanks Rook, that makes sense. I may have misunderstood Hubs comment, but that's not a shocker I'm sure. I took it to reference the stock oil pump gearing and water pressure. To be honest, I didn't dig any deeper than some general web perusing for any reported related issues, and the only thing I've come across is the potential for the oil pump cavitation under high RPM if the oil level is "low" - easily rectified by making sure the oil level is at or above the "high" level marker - also I'm not running with a low profile oilpan. I trust Schnitz to have done their homework before manufacturing and selling this type of mod. I'd figure if they're good enough to warn folks about gear whining during break in, they would warn about actual water pump damage potentials. I was considering reaching out to Schnitz on this, just for clarity, and will post up if I do and get a reply.

Understanding that many in this community are *ahem* weight sensitive and working to squeeze every pony out of this machine, and I appreciate that. I however am not on "team Ozempic" - there are plenty of equines for me now - I'm just trying to make them last as long as possible (100k miles + is my goal). I'm not one that's going to take this machine out to the professional straight track, but if someone comes up on me on the roadway and thinks they can edge up, well, that's likely not gonna happen, fat ass and all. If I didn't want to have some fun on this beast and push her from time to time, then I wouldn't even have considered the mod, or the flash, but I do so I have. Just don't wanna be one of those that spins a bearing by doing it, if it can at all be prevented.

Thanks again for your feedback!

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the only thing I've come across is the potential for the oil pump cavitation under high RPM if the oil level is "low" - easily rectified by making sure the oil level is at or above the "high" level marker

Now that you mention it, I remember that now too. I've heard a few owners recently advise to run the oil level high (even to the top of the glass). I don't think that could hurt much if you try it but if it's simply a backup incase the sump runs dry, you're going to get oil up in your air box and it wrecks your oil filter too. Oil in the airbox drains out the escape tube on the RH side. It takes about a year but it even will dry up completely leaving not even a film. You can wipe out around the bellmouths and stuff, it's just that much of the inside of the airbox has a rough surface being that there's no reason to make it visually appealing. The toothy surface snags fibers off of rags and that's going in your engine. ...probably no harm at all but it's not normal so I prefer to avoid it. Oil blowing up the throttle bodies is normal. I see an oil film around my throttle body clamps and a little on the cable reel on the side. My throttle plates had oil under them every time I had those access doors off. It's just when you fill the oil above the top line in the glass, that blows it up to the air box excessively and it does damage the air filter. I guess that's how I'd check it. If you have oil around your air filter on the exterior, you know your oil level is too high. ....and you should pull the filter because it would be best to change it ASAP.

I believe Schnitz would be able to give you top notch advice about the oil level required for the gear. The oil mods have been around a long time. I learned about them in 2012 and they were known even before that as I recall hearing conversations probably as far back as 2008.

I think the wining noise of the gear would be cool! Kind of like Mad Max's supercharger. I'd enjoy it as long as it lasts.

If I didn't want to have some fun on this beast and push her from time to time, then I wouldn't even have considered the mod, or the flash, but I do so I have. Just don't wanna be one of those that spins a bearing by doing it, if it can at all be prevented.

I think that's smart ownership.

Definitely let us know anything new you learn. I'll be doing the oil mods on my Gen2 and I might just go with the gear this time.

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