Have not peeked inside airbox since the flyectomy of winter, '08. Just thought I would check in there since it has been 2 years. Looks the same as I remember it. Slight oil film seems to concentrate around the primary flies and peter out as it eminates from the black plastic duct atop the throttle bodies. I didn't bother to clean it out at that time but I suppose I might as well now.


Also seems to be a light film of dust particles in there and the air filter bracket seems to have a visible build up of dirt. I can feel it when I wipe my finger across the inside surface up near the air filter. I have always run nothing but the stock filter unmodded. Just changed at 11,000 miles. I guess it doesn't filter everything out.

As far as I can tell, there is probably a little bit of dust everywhere in there. You can see some on the inside of the aibox covers below. Not too big a deal, IMO. Looks no worse than 2 years ago. Mifght even be the same grime as then. Probably won't bother doing this check for another 25,0000 miles. Had seen threads of goopy lookin' sludge forming in the airbox--looked to me like water/oil mixture. Nothing that severe with my bike. Just looks like some oil gets misted up in there out of the flies once in a while. maybe from heat alone for all I know.

QUESTIONS:

1. What would you use to wipe the airbox out--solvent, WD-40, gasoline>>>>>>.....??
2. What do you think about the dust particles that seem to be getting past the filter?

Don't worry. You won't scare me. This bike has never run anything but perfect and awesome. 0 problems with performance. You know, you futz around with your bike; you see things you would never see had you just left her in one piece.

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/9/2010 @ 12:57 PM *

1Bad told me that when they pressurized a 14 airbox for the turbo project it had all kinds of leaks, not really very well sealed. I doubt it's getting past your stock filter but it may be sneaking arund the edge seals like mine was.

No doubt. Those rubber gromet holes for the tank cover fairing would be the first place I would look at sealing up...if I wanted to bother with it.

Brake or contact clean. But really, it's more you let the dust cling to the tack. A lot of it is more fuel peppering like for ever action there is a spit back on the valve close. That tiny dried fuel feels tacky, right? The other is just mist from the crankcase. That is your more brown spots.

Still looks good! Close it down. It's more cleanup hassle than it's worth. Couple hundred miles and she is all the same again. I see it with the throttle body swapping.

That tiny dried fuel feels tacky, right? The other is just mist from the crankcase. That is your more brown spots.

I ran my finger over the inside of one of the caps pictured above. The film felt oily. Definitey a thin oil film. I think I'll wipe the inside out with a rag since I have those caps off. Then they go back on for another two or three years.

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/10/2010 @ 10:18 PM *

In that case, here is what you do. Pull the air cleaner. Remove the rubber slots and clean those, if I remember? Left side, rear of ram, look down in the service cover hole. Do you see that sort of gate or corner? Look for the big hose to the outside now.

This is your breather connector. Remove that hose. Attach a said drain tube so you can collect brake clean and the oil-tack. Cover the rubber stacks with something so the rubber is not so infected by the spray. This way, you can spray up top of the ram chamber's ceiling going all the way back to the corner drain tube.

After everything is clean. Work at night for this one. Take a flashlight, lay it against any hole used to attach something at the ram chamber. Turn the garage light off, aim well, then run your hand outside to see if that beam hits your hand or you can see it. There is your air leak, being on way of trying to keep the dirt out.

Cover the rubber stacks with something so the rubber is not so infected by the spray.

Thanks for excellent suggestions Hub. Always grateful. I looked at the directions for brake parts cleaner and it is nothing I would chance spraying on plastic rubber or painted surfaces. I'm sure it dries up very rapidly but I suspect it is mostly made of acetone which I have, in other situations, observed destroy rubber from close contact to fumes alone. The rubber swelled up within minutes and in a couple days it was cracked and disintegrating.

I started wiping the airbox out and discovered that much of the inside has a rough, scratchy surface that will readily trap fibers off a cloth. Cleaning would create more debris than not cleaning so I guess I will leave it. Maybe I will pat down a couple areas with a wad of tape rolled with sticky side out--wipe the smooth areas with a dry cloth and forget and move on to more important projects. I do like the flashlight idea for chasing down leaks. Might have a look at that. Thanks Hubster.

Maybe I will pat down a couple areas with a wad of tape rolled with sticky side out

Just tried that and got pretty close to nothing on the tape. My conclusion is there is NO appreciable debris in the airbox. Some of the rough surfaces up near the air filter felt a bit dusty to the touch but not really. Red Herring. Thanks for suggestions fellas. Plan to put a bolt and washer in that grommet the clean air hose sticks through and close her up. Going to install block off plates and pull the whole PAIR off this winter.

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/12/2010 @ 9:13 PM *

I don't think you're going to have an issue with longevity from any small airleak Rook, when I went to Grapevine Kawasaki to take a peak at the new 10r, they had an '06 ZX-14 on the showroom floor with 60,000 miles on it.

1+ Kruz!

Look at the H-D chopper crowd. Nothing but open mouth or a tiny foam sock you can see the slide thru the pleats. I'm joking, but darn near close if you can imagine. Now, that, 'Mizz GashWizzR' lives in the desert. You have a bunch of riders meet and greet, get drunk, do donuts or dirtrack race around her house or who know what they do there with the choppers in all sucking stages, they are not smoking down the road.

Besides, that is more gas-tac that is sticky. The oil should pick right up. But if not, guess what is dry and tacky? You do not want that carb clean vinegar with the 5% acid to it. You'll never get ALL of it out. It eats metal within hours and keeps going. In other words, don't try this at home.

That ram lives in a pressure-vacuum-balance. That ram chamber has the, 'for every suck, there is a push back out the velocity stack blow." That suck and blow action still has a mist of gas flowing all over that ram. The engineering has been all factored in to look as if you think you can clean that up. The very first valve to close once you close that service cap, will the mist return...

And if you want to see lean air vs A/Fratio... Mouse it!

http://grantkot.com/MPM/Liquid.html

And if you want to see lean air vs A/Fratio... Mouse it!
http://grantkot.com/MPM/Liquid.html

That was cool. Thanks for sharing Hub.