Sorry for another question that may have been answered before.
At the old site this was discussed and like an idiot I didn't save it. Hub mentioned something that I took as a possible consequence to plugging the hose. Since he has a different way of "splainin' thins" I may have just misunderstood.
I have Area P cans, no other changes. I don't want to install a PC at this time. The bike runs great and I don't mind some of the decel' popping but the dreaded 3,500 rpm bang needs to go if possible.
I've read that plugging the hose eliminates most of the decel' pop and should eliminate the big bang. I don't exactly understand how the system works other than it recycles spent exhaust back into the cylinder(s?)to be re-burned. If it's as simple as that there should be no performance/reliability negative to plugging the hose?
Only thing I can think of (and maybe this sounds stupid)is that the spent exhaust is recycled and could be factored into making the correct fuel/air ratio? Meaning, Kawasaki designed it to add the spent gases and by not allowing them to return the bike could run leaner?
Are the recycled gases sent to all cylinders or just one in particular? Also, the hose is the one on the right side, about 5/8"? and goes to a switch, correct? I don't see anything else coming out from under the air box.
Thanks for any help. I'll live with the 3.5 pop if I have to but would sure like to get rid of it.

kak from what i understand from reading other post its not recyling spent exhaust but in fact feeding fresh air into the exhaust system for the cats so when you put an after market exhaust on you dont need that extra air going into the exhaust if you go to Brocks web site and look at their exhaust installation they show you 1 way to eliminate that

In performance, I was about to open a thread about needing a PC or not with all the mods made to the 14. I want to compile all the times I beat the bike into submission, show you the clips that should knock that bike out it's too lean by someone's word.

Scott is correct. Read his post. No, you don't need a PC with slips. Pop wise, take that 5/8" looking hose you mentioned, take a cork and plug the hose. Take another cork and plug up the hole for a temp test run. All you did was plug two holes, nothing else to modify. Now go see if that stopped the pop... And I mean the 'big' pop at 3.5K or there about.

OK. Thanks for the help.
As usual, I'm wrong. The system doesn't recycle the exhaust. At least these dumb questions learn me.
I remember from early '08 the Brock's website saying they included a red plug that fills the hole and gives a place to re-insert the hose too. I think I have something similar that will work as well. I can get various sizes of electrical cable caps at work. Some here just plug the hose with a marble too.
Thanks for helping me understand how it works. Shouldn't be any negative side-effects.
I gave the hose just a 1/4" tug and it feels like there's nothing holding it in except its length? Just don't want to pull it out and something drops inside.
Anyone know exactly what the switch does/how it works that the hose is connected to?

That's all you do is pull the hose out. No fasteners. Nothing will drop inside your airbox. There's a How-Too with pics on how I did my PAIR block. You might want to check there for some ideas.

All I can tell you about the functioning of the PAIR valves is that they open to let fresh air into the exhaust which allows unburned emmissions to be decomposed more efficiently by the cats. If you run the bike with your thumb over the end of the hose that goes in the airbox you feel a pulsing suction. The suction is probably what causes the valves to open and draws in the fresh air.

Before you go ahead with it, you might want to do some research on the effect disabling the PAIR will have on your header cat if you have a G2. I heard it could burn or be otherwise damaged without fresh air from the PAIR.

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/14/2010 @ 2:19 PM *

KAK, As usual, I'm wrong. The system doesn't recycle the exhaust. I think you have it right. The fresh air does recycle the spent exhaust. I'm going to keep confusing you so only one makes sense. So, if you look at Scott's abstract how the PAIR works, it does seem to recycle the exhaust.

I remember from early '08 the Brock's website saying they included a red plug that fills the hole and gives a place to re-insert the hose too. I think I have something similar that will work as well. I can get various sizes of electrical cable caps at work. That will work. If I were to use the caps, I look at those as a tapered cone. Taper in is the suck of air. Now that is one direction is the Pair letting the exhaust pull on the cap with a slight vacuum of the gate opening, the reed valve is bent enough so the pull... Pull out?

I'm going to install a cone in the ram now. No way hose say I shove that hose back in the ram with the cap taper in the vulnerable suck direction? Not a suck me down the hose action but suck my cap out in the post ram(?) it down some throttle plate? The odds of that probably will not happen. V-stacks are too high. If it came out, it would bounce around the inner ram cage. Pass thanks me installing a taper the opposite suck. Get it?

Now, you send a tight ball bearing down there and it would take inches to crawl back up, then yes, I'd use a ball down the hose = She ain't going nowhere.

Hub on brocks site they instruct to cut off the taper then slide it up into the plastic block off cap

everyone that just blocks the hose should probably read the last 2 sentences of the explanation from schnitz:

To meet federal regulations, OEM's use clean air injection that adds oxygen to the exhaust. This allow unburnt fuel to burn and reduce hydrocarbon emissions into the atmosphere. For this to properly work, stock exhaust systems have a catalytic converter inside that completes the process. Once an aftermarket exhaust system is installed the added oxygen does little to help burn the excess fuel. Instead, it often leads to "backfiring" or "popping" when engine braking or decelerating. By disabling the clean air injection one can nearly eliminate all backfiring. Also, since the clear air injection is adding extra air from the air box you can gain some increase in air box pressure when at speed.

Keep in mind also that with the clean air system in place, any air/fuel sensors or dataloggers on the bike will show a leaner running engine causing you to tune your bike and adust the fuel system too rich. This can only be prevented by eliminating the clean air system and all associated hoses.

Thanks for the help.
I used a short 1" flexible plastic wire cap that fit very snug into the stock breather hose.
Needed a little lube to push it in. Ain't coming out. It expanded the stock hose just a little but it slipped in easily enough. Poked the hose back up to the same height as it was inside the box.
As for Brock's instructions, I imagine the only reason to cut off the taper is so the end will fit better/deeper into the plug.
What the Schnitz site said was what I wanted to hear(most of it). Hope it works.
scottjkyl/anyone, the last part of that Schnitz statement saying "with the clean air system in place any air/fuel sensors or dataloggers on the bike will show a leaner running engine causing you to tune your bike and adjust the fuel system too rich.
This can only be prevented by eliminating the clean air system and all associated hoses".
Not sure I'm reading it right. Not sure what they mean by "with the clean air system in place". Are they saying that with the hose plugged but the hose and switch/valve still actually attached they could effect sensors and give a false leaner read? I hope by "in place" they mean only if in operating order. And by "eliminating" they don't actually mean removing from the bike.

Of all the threads and articles I've seen, I've never heard an answer to the question as to what damage occurs to the cat without the supplementry air. Since the cat is no longer in play damaging the cat is of no consequesce...unless... the damage deformed the cat's elements so as to impede air flow. Otherwise It's a worthless obstruction. We are, of course, talking about using the bike on the track or strip only. That being the case, removal of the cat makes damage to it a mute point. Removal of the tubing is not necessary if it is simply blocked. Then you can simply unplug it when you want to put the street exhaust system back on...

KAK: Not sure I'm reading it right. Not sure what they mean by "with the clean air system in place". Are they saying that with the hose plugged but the hose and switch/valve still actually attached they could effect sensors and give a false leaner read? Your welcome; Kak, I think they meant the sniffer in the exhaust to register rich/lean running.

Schnitz:For this to properly work, stock exhaust systems have a catalytic converter inside that completes the process. In other words, if we ran the PAIR, we need the cat to complete the process. Like saying, we have the dough to make bread, but no water to complete the process. I'm over thinking things too. Make it simple, back it off a notch, KAK, 'this ain't rocket science.'

Schnitz: Once an aftermarket exhaust system is installed the added oxygen does little to help burn the excess fuel. [I'd argue that point, but another time] Instead, it often leads to "backfiring" or "popping" when engine braking or decelerating. [If PAIR is still in play = True] By disabling the clean air injection one can nearly eliminate all backfiring. True. Cold clouds vs. warm front and all that thunder about being cold meeting hot air goes the thunder, but condensed down a tube instead is that pop. Eliminate the cold air leak = Little to no pop will occur like Ryan pointed out.

CAT Failure: Look at it like this. Running old style heads without PAIR, you have carbon built up in the ports. Take the pipe off, stick your head in a port. If PAIR is in play, the one [pair] port is clean. Almost as clean as your spark plug being the heat is burning things off, not down. So, down goes the carbon buildup on the honeycomb. The PAIR shuts down enough heat that the cat cools down. Now the cat can't burn and stay clean. The carbon builds.

The bike feels sluggish like hard starting at it's worse. Poor accel before it gets worse. Once the carbon builds up, flows hot air slower, the heat builds on the carbon build. A glow plug effect happens like look at charcoal glow in the BBQ, Jeffo brought over to cook the meat and great! Now look at the metal heat up and begin to melt the honeycomb to where you might as well throw a blow torch on the cat combs and melt them into a puddle of molten...

And that is the danger of carbon build = Glow Plug Effect my BBQ is I like mine well done and done is this post too. Rebuttals?

* Last updated by: Hub on 2/14/2010 @ 9:48 PM *

Rook, I have an '07 so no cat in the header.

Hub, true it isn't rocket science. Just me and the two ways I could interpret what I was reading.
As I get older the questions are out-numbering the answers. Supposed to be the other way around.

KAK: Not sure I'm reading it right. Not sure what they mean by "with the clean air system in place". Are they saying that with the hose plugged but the hose and switch/valve still actually attached they could effect sensors and give a false leaner read? Your welcome; Kak, I think they meant the sniffer in the exhaust to register rich/lean running.

Like when you tune the bike...if the PAIR is not blocked, it will be mixing air into the emmissions and make an accurate reading impossible.

Allright. Thanks Rook.

You could tune the bike without the PAIR so the sniffer reads the real spent numbers. Once this tune is all she can tune, then you turn the PAIR back on. Since there is no 02 to sniff from the exhaust system, the PAIR is back speeding spent out the chamber so don't tell anyone about that tuning trick. Get it? Then along one for Merry [smiles] "Come Get Me' Worlds fastest with the cats and PAIR plugged in...

* Last updated by: Hub on 2/16/2010 @ 6:19 PM *

Sweet.