Hey, I'm new to this forum. Checking to see if anyone has any info on replacing the valve cover gasket on an 07 ZX14. All information and pics would be helpful. Thanks

Hello Minter.Well-I'm guessing you have the infamous cover leak?Okay-I've replaced my gasket one time,and stopped the leak twice(once,from the Original gasket,once from when the mechanic reinstalled a NEW gasket as he checked he valves).This is MY fix-it worked fine for me(and alot of other 14 owners).You get four 3/8ths inch m10 washers.On the left side of the valve cover(as sitting on the bike)you install two washers onto the valve cover bolts-front and rear.Then you tighten down-not to spec,but you watch as you tighten-the gasket will "begin" to be squeezed.As soon as it deforms "JUST A LITTLE BIT" at the seal there(front and back)you stop tightening.It will NOT be torqued to spec-so forget that.DO NOT CRUSH THE GASKET! Just snug down till the edge is "barely wavy".It will stop your leak.Wipe all residual oil off your engine around there-and at the gasket itself.One or two times of riding and wiping off after-you should have a "leakless" cover!!!

Thank you for the info

The washers worked,you saved me alot of time and money. Thanks blue07

Was it easy to check the valves?Not much room in there.43,000 miles,I guess I'll check mine this winter!!!

I didn't have to pull the valve cover off, but to check the valves it looks like you may have to pull the sub frame off that's connected to the triple tree. Let us know what you find out

Am I next? 3 Years. Mysterious oil consumption. About 2/3 quart every 2500 miles. Thought I was smelling some burnt oil last summer during my 200 mile rides. It gave a headache a couple times. Guess that was not just fresh asphalt I was smelling.

Not a drop on the floor yet. Nor in the fairings. Been sitting the last few months. Not able to burn any oil off the headpipes all winter and it has dripped down--a light film over the front of the engine down to the bottom of the headers. Nothing on the sides at all. I think if I keep letting it go it is going to get much worse.

on the lower headpipes and down to the oil drain plug protector shield. All on the front surfaces.

So -- I need to do the valve clearance inspection anyway. What is my first step? I assume tightening the valve cover would be a waste of time if I need to check valves, right?

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/17/2011 @ 9:35 PM *

Yeah...what Hub said .

Thanks, guys. I don't think this is a post one time and be done with it. Sounds like some pretty major work for my level of expertise. I'll probably get it wiped up and go for a couple rides then peal the plastic off and get in there. Valve check time too, as I mentioned above. This is going to be a slow summer. Came at a good time I GUESS.

I'm quite sure the Hubster could check and adjust those valves.I got as far as.....removing everything BUT the valve cover.WAY too much involvement for me....could see the only way I was gonna be able to get to the valves....was to remove the friggin Radiator as well.That sealed the deal for me.With the front end on there...nah...no way for me.My guy did an excellent job(didn't have to adjust any valves...and NO shims either)...plus I had everything off for him beforehand...so it worked out okay.They were all easily within factory specs.Next check...48,000.These I had checked at 24,000.

So just put the washers on the two bolts on the left side without replacing the gasket will fix the leak? Grn14

* Last updated by: bmurrph0614 on 5/13/2025 @ 12:43 PM *

We haven't heard from Grn14 in a year or more. We're hoping he resurfaces someday soon.

I think the valve cover leak was rectified with the Gen2. The Gen1 got an updated thicker head cover gasket and I believe the ring-os (rubber disk under the bolt heads) were updated as well. This seemed to eliminate the leak altogether on my bike. I replaced the ringo-s and gasket when I did my valve clearance adjustment. I'm not sure if the bolts were updated. I think they were but I didn't replace the bolts.

I found each cylinder head cover bolt to be barely hand tight. I doubt it left the factory like that, the head cover gasket probably shrunk or something.

I used one washer under the head of each of the head cover bolts. I torqued the bolts to spec. It was clear from the deformation of the ringo-s that the washers were causing more tension on them. This in turn compresses the cylinder head cover gasket more too. The leak was improved but did not go away. The leak may have lessened over the next two years but still was there. I replaced the ringo-s and gasket when I did my valve clearance adjustment and this eliminated the leak altogether on my bike.

There is a particular pattern you are supposed to follow in torquing the head cover bolt. I you loosen one bolt, might as well loosen all so they can be retightened in the proper sequence. Might as put a washer on all bolts if you do that.

Using washers on only the two LH bolts could cause some head cover warpage.

Once oil finds a path out, it's going to keep weeping even if the gap is tightened up.

You can only tighten the bolts so much because they have a shoulder that prevents them from going in any further than it takes the shoulder to bottom out against its surface under the valve cover. The washer trick allows the bolt to compress its adjoining rubber parts more. However the bolt can't actually go in further. There is no sense in tightening much past where the shoulder bottoms out. Over-torquing is rough on the bolt head hex and that's about all.

If you don't want to take off the cylinder head cover yet, give the washer trick a try. I would stick to one washer under the head of each of the 6 bolts. Tighten to the service manual torque spec, and in proper sequence. A single washer under the head of each bolt increases the compression of the ring-os by .5 mm. Two washers will squash the ringo-s so much they may be susceptible cracking.

Plan B, replace cylinder head cover gasket, ring-os, spark plug well gaskets and probably the bolts too if you determine that part has been updated. Fresh sealant will be applied and the oil seepage path will be eliminated. Here's my tutorial. Feel free to ask more questions, Hub might add some thoughts but I think he's going to agree with me. I got most if not all of what I know about the cylinder head gasket leak from him.

https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=91DAF396-D56B-84E2-1CB7DC17E5343386&searchTerm=head%20cover%20gasket%20leak&page=1

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/14/2025 @ 7:35 AM *

This is my next job. Never realized how bad it got under the tank. Started with it idling and sounding like crap a little bit then started pulling side plastic and darn there is oil dampness all over the valve cover and down the engine. Started to smell like oil burning which was a little oil on the header.
Guess it may be time to order a gasket and go from there. Totally unplugged the PC5 to make sure it was not the idle problem and it was not. Only has 6600 miles on it (2008) still with original plugs.
Have to YouTube to see about gas pressure relief to pull the tank but after sitting for 3 weeks it may have no pressure to worry about.

I have been riding the Harley (2021 Sport Glide) all the time and letting everything else sit. I am not sure but an old 450 Honda might be able to outrun the 107 ci HD.

I removed my fuel tank at least three times and I never had a problem with gasoline pressure. A little will probably trickle out of the pipe but not a big deal. Obviously remove it when the fuel is as low as possible to reduce the weight. I might have had a few drops come out of the breather nipples but it was contained in the plastic I rubber banded over them. No mess on th e floor at al.. . Set it on the floor with the gas cap looking straight ahead, any pressure from the weight of the gasoline on the hose fittings will be minimal. The electrical connectors are tricky. I have a tutorial on it if you'd like to check that out.

Still not interested in selling off your dream bike lytnin? I must have a Gen2 like my old one. If you're not letting it go, I can't blame you.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/15/2025 @ 6:21 AM *