Good evening everyone!

So, as stated in my previous thread - I am sticking to my ZZR1400, simply because i think there's nothing better then this bike. And it's stupid to switch. So that's that.

BUT!

I did decide i want to put more effort in my ZZR1400 - which means: Get a P. Commander (or something alike) so i have more power in the lower revs, get my suspensions adjusted, get some nice angel eyes (maybe?) for the headlights etc etc.

Here's my thing though. My bike has ran around 33.000 KILOmeters right now. And my question is - Should i switch in my bike for a 'newer' one with less KM's?? - Why you ask? Well.... i would love a Red, black or White version of the ZZR1400. lol

I could also see buying a fairing set being an option, but that's also 1400 euro's or so.... And im not even sure if those are of the same quality!!

What do you think, guys?

---

What do you think, guys?

Tough one, if you get new, 6 more years of the new style ?

If you want a PC-3 for your current bike with the Ignition Module I will have one for sale? Old style lots of accessories to choose from. New bike won't have much for awhile.

Wait and see if new bike has issues then decide

I would keep what you have for another year. You have 33K, now and frankly what's the difference between 33K and 40K? Make sure the new one is all it's cracked up to be, don't forget they are adding a bunch of new electronics that often need to be "tweaked". As Romans said, if you wait a year there will be a ton of stuff available at a "descent price". Put a few bucks into your bike or just leave it alone, and when you go in to buy the new bike next year throw down a nice pile of cash... Cash is king! Keep tabs on the new ZX14/15 advances & products that work, let everyone else be the guinea pigs.

---

Should i switch in my bike for a 'newer' one with less KM's??

20,000 miles? I have 27K and I feel like the bike is running stronger than ever. I wouldn't trade it for another lower miles 14 as long as there are no problems. It's a matter of finances. You probably will spend a LOT of money for almost no increase in service life of the bike and /or replacement parts. Hell, you prolly have the original plugs in there(I do). Maybe even the original air filter (but I would change that 4 sure if it has not been done yet). The only way I would even think about trading was if someone was willing to give me a great deal on the old bike and there was also a nice deal waiting on the new(er) bike.

We are all so in a tizzy over the NEW ZX-14 that everyone is thinking you meant you want to trade off the old bike for a brand new 2012. That............that would make more sense because you would be getting something different for the extra money. But I agree with Rom and seno in that you would still be better spending money to hold the bike you have owned for only one year. Get some use out of it cuz you are going to get reamed when you sell. We all do. Especially if you mod but it's all a part of the game.

---

I could also see buying a fairing set being an option, but that's also 1400 euro's or so.... And im not even sure if those are of the same quality!!

If you want to change color, buying OEM fairings is a cheaper option than having a professional paint job. I like that Euro dark grey you have though. Still think it would be nice with some solid black areas.

I don't think you are going to get a huge amount more power in low end from any kind of tuning device and remap on a stock bike. However, if you plan a full system exhaust later on, A PC is a good thing to have on there first so that the bike is ready to run at its best.

The best thing I can think of for increased low end is to go to a 45 T rear sprocket. You may be able to do that with the OEM chain you have. If that is not enough, you can go to a 16 T engine sprocket. Top speed will be lowered but that's the trade off. The bike would still doi 150 MPH , I am pretty sure. There is a mathematical way to calculate that.

Other than a good pipe and PC, weight loss mods are the best basic mods. Drop the belly pan and frame work and switch to a Shorai 14 Ah battery and you lost about 17 pounds right there. Remove the PAIR and another poiund is gone. Take off heat insulator jackets and heat block foam in fairings that will be another couple pounds. Light weight wheels ar eawesome but expensive. Just make sure you don't break things. Always nice to be able to put it all back as it was for resale or maybe because you decide you like it better as it was.

---

Thanks for the replies guys.

To clear it up, i was talking about a '09 bike, or maybe a '10. The '12 model might be kickass but it's a bit too much money for me because we bought a house a month ago.

Rook, i didn't remove the flies yet. Shouldn't that make a hell of a difference? Not going to be bothered with those little pounds too much. hihi

What's the BEST way to fix up those flies? (Im not gonna do it myself, so i wanna tell my mechanic).

Btw, saw a nice ZX14 for sale, had around 8.000 KM's on it, BUT had a lengthened bridge (like 15 cm's). Would this be a bad buy because the bike has been racing lots maybe? (didnt see the bike IRL yet)

Also, do those OEM sets fit perfectly? Is there any 'brand' or seller i should go for because they make a perfect fit?

Thxthx!

---

Found a '09 model with 5000 on the counter... Black!!! RAWRRR

---

Oops.

* Last updated by: Matsuke on 10/7/2011 @ 1:44 AM *

---

Rook, i didn't remove the flies yet. Shouldn't that make a hell of a difference?

If your bike is an 06-07 model, fly removal will make a big dif.

I pulled the flies on my 08 and IMO, it makes so little dif, I would not have known anything was ever done. After I got my map adjusted for the flies out, that seemed to help to smooth out the power delivery. There was a sudden jump in power from 3.5 K to 4 K rpm. The smoothening of the powerband was the main reason to remove flies. I don't recommend owners do it having any big expectations. It's a free mod but gains are very minimal on an 08-11.

There is a thread in Performance upgrades. I can find it for you if you are interested but I am ready to head in to work right this moment. Just post if you can't find the thread and I'll get it for ya.

had a lengthened bridge (like 15 cm's)

Not familiar with that term "bridge" Is that the same as swing arm extensions to make the rear wheel back farther???
In any case. I wouldn't buy a bike that was raced much unless it was real cheap. Especially drag racing.

Also, do those OEM sets fit perfectly? Is there any 'brand' or seller i should go for because they make a perfect fit?

What sets are you referring to? Rearsets for the footpegs?

---

If your bike is an 06-07 model, fly removal will make a big dif.

My bike is a '06 model.. hmpf, another reason to get a '08 model so i don't have to mess with the flies! =p

I wouldn't buy a bike that was raced much unless it was real cheap. Especially drag racing.

Yeah, sorry - meant the swing arm extensions. harr harr! I guess you're right. bad idea to buy such bike.

What sets are you referring to? Rearsets for the footpegs?

LOL. Sorry i was so unclear. When i get excited and i want something done i sometimes fail to fully type in the questions!! LOL. Meant the Fairings of the bike. INCLUDING the tank. I have no clue what store, or user on Ebay sells good quality Fairings (+Tank)

---

I know a guy....if he's still doing the fairings thing....on ebay.I bought a set from him in 07.Perfect condition.Came off a ZERO mile bike.His store is called "velocityking"...on ebay(ebay Motors).His name is Tim Orr(goes by 'cementdrums').He had several sets back then.I don't know about now...but you can trust him.Hope this helps.Tell him Monty sent ya.He knows who I am.(Included Tank and fuel pump)(included ram duct covers).Also...ALL the fasteners to mount your new fairings with.You will need to install YOUR tank lock and cap on your new tank.

His sets are off of new bikes with ZERO miles.He sells the motors and stuff for the T-Rex's.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 10/7/2011 @ 10:45 AM *

His sets are off of new bikes with ZERO miles.He sells the motors and stuff for the T-Rex's.

Wew that sounds great Blue07! I will check it out!

---

Yeah, that is a good bit of info. As far as fly removal, you can do that fly removal yourself Your half way there if you are going to remove the gas tank. You just have to remove these two caps and there are the flies inside.

then you need a good quality, brand new 8" #2 phillips head screw driver and a soldering gun or small propane torch to remove the screws that hold the flies in. A coupel other simple tools will make the job safer. The danger is dropping a screw down the intake or strippingthe x slot on screw head.

Other than fairings and gas tank removal the fly removal wouldn't take more than a couple hours. If you are taking the gas tank off, might as well have a go at it. If you can't get one of the screws out, then leave the flies in.

* Last updated by: Rook on 10/7/2011 @ 3:16 PM *

---

LOL Rook,

You want me to hold a smoldering tool? i'll def. burn myself or break the bike!! HEHE

Since you mentioned the 2008 bikes and above have this *issue* fixed, im going to try to
find a low mileage bike with the right color AND the right year.. sounds like a solid
plan to me!!

So i don't have to go through this 'operaton flies'.

---

So i don't have to go through this 'operaton flies'.

Matsuke, your local Kawi Mechanic has done lots of the fly removal jobs. Pay him the 1 hour. Cheapest way to go. You will be glad you did.

Matsuke, your local Kawi Mechanic has done lots of the fly removal jobs. Pay him the 1 hour. Cheapest way to go. You will be glad you did.

Maybe you're right .. By the way, is physically pulling the flies out the only possible way, and if so, the best way?
I'am wondering if i wont damage the bike in any way when i pulled the flies. And would i have to get a PCIII to get the bike run OK if i pull the flies?

Thx.

---

Maybe you're right

Yup, he is. If you REALLY can trust the mechanic, that is far cheaper than buying a new bike. This fly pull is a lot more involved than changing and air filter. I don't think it is any more difficult than changing to a full system. ...but if you know your limitations and one of them is routine maintenance and NO MORE, then you're wise to let a trusted mech do your work.

By the way, is physically pulling the flies out the only possible way, and if so, the best way?

You can install a TRE which is a small electronic fuse. It will make your flies open sooner. There are two kinds of TRE. One is for flies the other is to lock the bike in Neutral map.

Just pulling the flies out is the best way to achieve the goal of true WOT all across the powerband. They don't really get pulled. It is actually fairly delicate. they are just 4 round plates, each with two tiny screws, holding it to shaft. The flies are 4 flapper valves.

I'am wondering if i wont damage the bike in any way when i pulled the flies.

No. Definitely not. That has been a basic ZX-14 mod ever since the bike came out and I have never heard of anyone blaiming flies out for any kind of damage.

would i have to get a PCIII to get the bike run OK if i pull the flies?

You need to stay away from running below 6K for very long if you are flies out and on the stock mapping. That is unrealistic for street riding. Put the PC in there with a good flies out map and you will have a safe AFR. You will also get the maximum performance.

The 08-12 has mapping which is very rich in fuel. The low end and midrange mapping has enough extra fuel for the extra air coming in

---

You need to stay away from running below 6K for very long if you are flies out and on the stock mapping.

Think about what you are saying. If I sustain any speed limit, my subs are open to the same fuel trim as if the fly was removed. Ask yourself, yes or no? This thread is starting to smoke up, Rooksteer. That fly setting at speed should ring a bell in your air stepping. You are missing a simple step. WATT is it?

That is unrealistic for street riding. Put the PC in there with a good flies out map and you will have a safe AFR. You will also get the maximum performance.

You are contradicting yourself, if you said there is not one incident about anyone using map or no map quest for tuning.

My bike had an AFR meter on it. I watched normal map moves from the factory. I set my emissions lower than gov standards and I have yet to use a pc, hack with a resistor kind of, the smoke is clearing a little. Yes or no, Rook? Can you run all day long under 6K and hammer it up to that rpm even? Yes or no?

If my bike ran lean, it would score a piston, melt a ring groove, stick a piston ring; blow smoke; make a ticking noise; have low compression, meaning, poor ring sealing. After 20K hard beaten miles for my age meaning, not as hard as others, but add my share in that air to lean fallacy in FI trim, did leaning out the bike without flies/without pc cause my compression to sustain close to book sealing? 228psi vs. my lean mean emissions machine have 220 psi in each cylinder but 210 in the other or was that a leak at the threads?

Rook, yes or no so we can see each wall very clearly in the room. Have I hurt my 14, someone mentions a lean fallacy flies out kind of smoking in the bathroom with a 14?

* Last updated by: Hub on 10/8/2011 @ 4:07 PM *

---

Think about what you are saying. If I sustain any speed limit, my subs are open to the same fuel trim as if the fly was removed.

The fuel trim is not affected by the presence or absence of a fly. It is rather the opposite. The fly opens or closes in response to the fuel trim. I am not sure where you are going with that in the first place, Hub. Maybe I am misunderstanding you.

You are contradicting yourself, if you said there is not one incident about anyone using map or no map quest for tuning.

If I ever said a map is unnecessary for mods that effect AFR, I would have immediately followed that with " ...but it is BEST to use a PC (if not absolutely necessary).

I freely admit, I don't understand what I am talking about....I'm just blindly following what most other owners have done and parroting that info back to anyone who has not heard it yet.

I can't see AFR so I just trust what I have been told about it by the vast majority of owners. If what I have been told is false, at least I have not heard of people damaging their bike from it. Matsuke's bike is an 06. The stock mapping is leaner. The chance of damage is greater.

You may be right, Hub. But even you have to admit that very few other ZX-14 owners would agree with you. Perhaps they are wrong like me. We all ride without worrying about damaging our bike though. sometimes it just pays to follow the crowd. sometimes it just pays to follow the crowd.
sometimes it just pays to follow the crowd. sometimes it just pays to follow the crowd.

I have heard plenty of explanations why a PC is best used with AFR mods. The only time it is of little or no use is when mod changes AFR so slightly that the tune adjustment required is approximately nothing. Have not heard any good explanations as to why a PC is of no use. The bike is not capable of self adjusting to such an increased flow of intake as flies out. Not Full system either. Definitely not turbo or NOS, you'll blow that pot licker up without a PC or some similar device!

so i would rather just put a PC in there and not worry about it. Get a map that is proven safe or a professional tune and you are okay and making the best power without going into dangerous AFR.

* Last updated by: Rook on 10/8/2011 @ 5:03 PM *

---

I'm glad that you parrotech. That makes me roll the bike off the trailer in a less competitive tune. Remember, this is street. Low rpm moves. Lean is when you accel; it swings lean. Watch carefully. That gps does not need a gear position. That IAP does not need to be in play. That fly is nothing more than an air cutter, not a fuel cutter.

I had an '06 with fly out and there was zero hez, zero lag. I could not keep the bike on the ground; was the sparky front end. We are fuel rich on accel, not leaned out. To make it easy, the IAP already took in data on the crank position, speed, etc. Final result, we get spray, not some leaned out scenario.

I hear map cry we install a PISSea.

---

LOL!

So! I have no idea what you guys discussed. And i've read it several times!

Rook, you mentioned it would not hurt the bike, well, you never saw this change hurt the bike. Then hub jumps in, and i THINK he said it might hurt th.e bike?

Also, what's with that thing of not being to ride normal under 6k rpm with flies out?? I
Mean, im a casual street rider addicted to speed once in a while, but i dont want to take the car if its foggy and the zx14 might slip because shes hard to control under those 6k's.

And about the pciii, does this map actually help on controlling the lowers better?

Thanks guys.

---

ALRIGHT.

Operation 'Flies Removal' COMPLETE!

Almost dropped one of the little screws into the motor, but its all good. God that scared me to death!!! LOL.

Romans, i will leave you a PM for the PCIII, also - Whats the ignition Module for??

Thanks!

Robert

---

LOL!
So! I have no idea what you guys discussed. And i've read it several times!

Got your PM. Cycle World reported that they ran the ZX-14 with flies out No pc-3 for almost 2 years on test bike. No bad results.

Brocks Dyno Maps showed lean area in the 3800 to 4200 RPM range. Prob is,,, 70 miles per hour = Lean.

I thought is was around 14.2,,,,,,, Hub what AFR are you Running now ?

What exactly happens when the bike runs lean .. ? How do you notice, and how can it only be in the 4k-5k area for example?

---

I am running @ 15.1:1 AFR on sustained cruise. All day long, baby! Then, I whack the throttle, she swings in the 12's. I use a cutter with the accel hit, she washes out to 11 AFR = Junk! Waste of gas. Low torque, but at WOT gas station price when a bone stock 12 gets you there a spit second less? Cut to the chase!

If I keep blowing it out my ass that this was just a faster event, no change to fueling, show me cycleworld's bike all sitting in the corner, seized/blown/had to have a PSEE, nada! Nada thing wrong with that abused puppy over there in that office full of take it home and beat it to deatheveragging bulletproof!

* Last updated by: Hub on 10/9/2011 @ 10:39 AM *

---