Im planning on removing my frame sliders and I cant find the oem bolts. Does anyone have a part number for the the 2 bolts (one for each side) or the size of the oem bolts?

T,10X45
92153-1769

92153A BOLT,FLANGED...don't know if you're using the upper or lower oem bolt for the sliders....this is the lower bolt;)

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 6/3/2014 @ 10:29 AM *

These are standard metric hex-head bolts. You can order them from a Kawasaki parts supplier but you can probably find them much cheaper at a local hardware or automotive store. I picked up some at Lowes for about $3.00 for a bag of 3.

jwh20, if you are using those bolts for anything significant (ie motor mounts) the bolts from Lowes may not be strong enough, there are markings on the bolts that indicate the tensile strength of the bolts. So I would recommend that you check what the required strength is and what the OEM bolts are.

I was thinking the same thing. A weaker bolt might be stressed by the torque. I'd just pay the price for OEM and have that off my mind.

If the bolts are high-strength they will be marked as such. I don't believe these particular bolt show as anything special. But I do agree with your concern, using a standard strength bolt where a high-strength one is called for is a recipe for failure.

* Last updated by: jwh20 on 6/6/2014 @ 8:40 AM *

My local Tractor Supply has a good supply of Grade 8 bolts / nuts.

i picked up 2 10x50mm grade 8.8 from ace hardware for 1$ each.

are these bolts supposed to have locktite on them? if so, red or blue?

are these bolts supposed to have locktite on them? if so, red or blue?

The ones I removed from my '08 when I put sliders on had threadlocker on them. Use BLUE unless you NEVER intend to take them out again.

Ive noticed the motor mount and the frame mounting location is not lined up properly. honestly, it has been like this for few thousand miles.

Is this a problem? if so, how can i get this to line up correctly?

* Last updated by: bentz69 on 6/10/2014 @ 2:46 PM *

This looks like a Gen2, right?

I think I see what you mean. A sliver of the edge of the engine mount is visible at the back of the frame mount. I'd say no problem unless....unless the bolt will not thread back in smoothly.

There is factory threadlock on this bolt which makes it kinda stiff but was it hard threading out all the way out? I mean like it didn't get much looser once you broke it free until it was almost out? That would be binding, not threadlocking agent.

Inspect bolt and bolt hole. Damage to threads? Metal flakes? Will the bolt thread back in pretty easy or does it feel like you need to start muscling it? Will a brand new bolt of the same pitch thread in? Does the old bolt thread all the way through a nut of the same pitch (you can pick one out of the bin at the hardware store to test). If it doesn't go in without much effort, if you see signs of thread damage or if any of the aforementioned tests produce a failure result. You should fix it.

I've never removed an engine but seems like you will need to support it from below, preferably with an engine jack, loosen up all of the mounts and jimmy it around somehow until the mounts line up. Probably going to be a little more complicated than that. Remove exhaust, too.

You may be able to chase the threads in the engine mount. If that doesn't work, it's helicoil or drill and rethread. You may consider using a longer bolt that goes all the way through and putting a nut on the inside if the threads are damaged. That would work given the the new bolt can go through without damaging it's threads.

So, do the holes line up? That's all that matters. Now that I look at your pics it appears that sliver crescent of the engine mount is identical on both sides. Good sign, I'd say. Probably just that the gen 2 engine mold has a slightly larger surface than the adjoining frame mount location. Let's hope so, anyway.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/10/2014 @ 5:10 PM *