Hi Guys, You are all so wonderful in helping me with understanding my new (2013) zx14r.
ABS = Anti brake system, like in my car so the wheels dont skid, i get that bit,
But traction control, that stops the wheel from spinning yes ?
Does it stop wheelie's?
I have Power L & H and traction :Off, 1 , 2 , 3 .
How does it know if the wheel is slipping / spinning ?? Does traction read from the front wheel rotation ??
Thanks guys, Big hugs Miss Maddy ;-)
* Last updated by: Maddy on 12/27/2015 @ 3:03 AM *
2013 zx14r se Metallic Spark Black/Golden Blazed Green, Woolich Racing ECU Flashed, Woolich quick shifter, well sprung suspension set up, Givi pannier bags , bar risers , touring bubble and a top box for my handbag.
Maddy - Traction control watches the rotation of the front and rear wheels, looking for when they're rotating at a different speed from one another.
When it senses that they're not rotating at the same speed, it kills the motor's power until they are rotating at the same speed again ... i.e. when whatever was causing that has been eliminated ... like a wheelie, a burnout, or the rear tire breaking loose while accelerating, such as when accelerating hard out of a corner and the rear tire breaks loose and starts to slide out.
The different traction control levels determine how quickly / harshly the motor's power is killed. On a lower setting you might be able to do a small wheelie before traction retards the motor's power, bringing the front wheel back down to the ground. Then full power is quickly restored.
But traction control, that stops the wheel from spinning yes?
Yes and no. Yes, spins but not a full tire burning spin. You'll feel the DTT (threshold-trigger-discarge) of the system intervening; by cutting out or deterring as much spin no matter the throttle input. So the F-1 would trigger the slowest, cause the least amount of 'stutter' upon a robust acceleration situation from a dead stop say. L3 would stutter the most, because this would be at the fastest intervening DTT speed.
Does it stop wheelie's?
No. Once the wheel is up, one tone wheel will slow down (front) and cut the wheelie. For example, the bmw ss has this wheelie control, but you can keep the throttle planted fully open and the intervention will keep the wheel from lifting more than it is at that time. Both prevent you from sliding off the seat rising any higher way before you have a chance to figure out what is happening. I'm going to take a guess and say the 14 cuts the wheelie right off, where the ss is more programmed for a WOT out of the corners type situation.
I have Power L & H and traction :Off, 1 , 2 , 3.
As if saying: I have: F-Off = Sport F or L 1-2-or-3 combo = City L-3 = Slicker roads (rain), where lo & 3 are the fastest engagements of a tire wrinkle.
With both hands, press palm to palm and spread all your fingers apart. Right now your index is touching your other index finger and so on. Call this; both 'tone wheels' are spinning equally. Now, spin your one palm so the one index of one hand is in between the index and middle finger of the other hand. Notice how you can interpret this as one wheel leading the other via a breaking loose of traction. Both of those tone wheels respond to any wheel slowing or speeding up; as being out of control. So this DTT is more or less 'timed' for speed as in F1 would trigger at so many milliseconds as oppose to the next setting of cutting the time sooner or closer so the intervention acts quicker. So (H)F-off would mean no intervention so you can spin the tire at the start line, warm that tire up for traction, and now it's all skill from flipping over, unless you reset the power delivery to DTT sooner than later.
How does it know if the wheel is slipping / spinning ?? Does traction read from the front wheel rotation??
It reads at the tone wheel locations, yes.
It reads both those slip/spin directions: Front wheel slows down = Wheelie. The ABS knows via brake bias lockup. So both systems use this tone wheel input from both ends. This is how the intervention knows by tone wheel sync speeds. Say the index finger is moving towards the middle of the index and middle fingers as the tone wheel begins to slow down. The sync is no longer timed with the windows at their respective front and rear tires. Rear wheel speeds up = The tone wheel at the rear is moving faster than the front tone wheel and this triggers the DTT to react sooner and cut the 'fuel injectors-ignition-fuel pump' to deter any more wheel spin and or wheelie. Crude but simple.
Though I sped up the vids to watch my lines, the first 13 seconds is all about that DTT (Deter That Traction) signal set in milliseconds. When the windows (tone wheels) move out of sync, the memory is so fast as in lightening speed, meaning, I hooked up an ohm meter to an output signal, barely moved the crank to cause electricity to move and the meter picked up that signal. So as you look at that finger phasing, your ever so slightest move across index over index finger, you just intervened. That's how fast the memory Discharge is. The Triggering is so fast, that Threshold number was processed, waited for the next signal and back to traction, no traction, back to traction, etc. is how those mode settings calc the tone wheel's phasing.
So how to look at the Lo-Hi is how fast or slow can I make the DTT [timed length of speed] increase or decrease the RAM (random are the signals saved and when to flush the memory out) is that speed of choice of 1-2-3. I think I was set at F-1, lit the tire off, left a trail of dust for the car I cut off, peppered the bike with the dust>> filling up the rear wheel cavity.. never again. I then understood 'mode intervention,' felt the reset once the bike regained traction. I was paid back with a dusting as you can imagine the one I left behind.
Interpreters will be here shortly to decipher the hubbish speak and recap.
* Last updated by: Hub on 12/27/2015 @ 9:33 AM *
Tormenting the motorcycling community one post at a time
L = max power 150 (when I let a friend ride my bike it goes on L & TC3) F- 190's TC OFF= No wheelie intervention TC1= can wheelie but it will cut it before you get too high (around 1-2 feet usually on parkway it cuts mine) TC2= can lift front wheel launching hard but immediately cuts it TC3- No wheel spin for adverse conditions such as: rain,dirt/gravel road
2015 30th Anniversary Edition 14R #250-> Brock's CT Ceramic Coated, Ivan's ECU Flash V2 & Map, Block off plates, HM Strain gauge quickshifter, GPR Damper, Spiegler lines, Muzzy's Sliders, Pazzo levers, Rizoma Next Fluid Tanks, DDM Ultra 5500K HID's Low & Hi, DB Windscreen, Cox Radiator guard, gold titanium bolts... too many to list at this point
Hubster what happens at 5000 Rpm that keeps you short shifting. Don't tell your afraid to get into it ? Say it isn't so ??? Erase that video before your buddies see it. I think we will have to get you some Boooostt Lol
Ha, I come up on that van at almost 90. How fast do you want me to push before I plow into the cuda? Officer take a chance coming the other way? Pass thanks. I'm sitting on 2 tickets, 3 years of insurance penalties and you wonder why I short shift.
Tormenting the motorcycling community one post at a time
Guys, WOW ! Thank you for all that information, Hub, i had to read that and google a few words but we got it. Extrapolator, Wonderful info, Seno, Good words, Thanks so much :-)
2013 zx14r se Metallic Spark Black/Golden Blazed Green, Woolich Racing ECU Flashed, Woolich quick shifter, well sprung suspension set up, Givi pannier bags , bar risers , touring bubble and a top box for my handbag.