Question

my buddy got a gen 1 and the bike runs fine but the cluster is flashing empty fuel when topped of, temp and all flashing. checked fuses took the ecu out and everthing. no sure what it could be.

I'm thinking if you hold both mode and trip buttons down together, it will pop a code and tell you? That, or it clears the code? Then when it spits a code, it might be the first one showing the problem code number? So key on, engine not running, hold both buttons until the dash changes and what does it say?

Or say, I keep filling the bike up, but this time I really topped it off high? Let it ride. Once the gas depletes, maybe the float comes down, the stopping with key off, and starting again that day or the next time out, see if it clears on its own. More like a phantom code.

Unless you worked on the bike... think... what was the last thing I did to the bike?

With key on, my fuel and temp gauges blinked alternately when my battery was dead.

You must mean FUEL LOW. There is no EMPTY FUEL message.

With key on, my fuel and temp gauges blinked alternately when my battery was dead.

You must mean FUEL LOW. There is no EMPTY FUEL message.

the dash only shows miles
i tried to hold both buttons and stll no dice

pred, just ride it. See if it goes off with a lower fuel level. If it just came on and you haven't messed with the bike, say you let the float jump around and see if it unsticks, rather than pull the tank, empty the gas, pull the float level unit, etc.

the dash only shows miles

The meter unit is only showing the odo and nothing else? Can't be. Why do you think it's a low fuel indication? The fuel level bars and temp bars don't flash when you have low fuel, you get an alternating display of LOW FUEL and a gas pump icon.

pred, what year is it? If it's an '07 probably won't work... just guessing. And I think once it does trigger the dash, you press mode to see the code numbers appear? For both to alternate, they may dial-in with a loop and show one is the problem, and maybe a hidden 3rd?

Again, the bike runs fine. That says it's not overheating. The tank is another variable, so with clear line from a hardware store, the kind of clear used for the auto ice cubes or cold drinking off the fridge kind of line, run enough down to the pump, out the tank and down to a can of gas. The more you ride, the less cans.

Under the tank, pull the float, not the lower pump housing. You're going to reconnect the the fuel pump, but hold the float assembly and physically move it up and down, but first... When the key is switched on, it starts the pump. So either buy a short hose for the nipple out of the pump, or hold a cup or something to catch the initial prime to the fuel rail. Then you can run the float up and down, squeeze the float material, and see if it's soaked with gas. This can hold the float down for a false empty reading.

No joy, then the water temp sensor is what? A pain to get at, lost coolant, and once it's out, do you just throw parts at it and throw the dice it's a 13 year old part, and just replace it?

Here are the basics:
1. The connectors are apart.
2. A wire out of a connector.
3. Sensor is out of spec or shorted.

Also, there's something called 14 years of electrolysis. By just disconnecting the green corrosion that are on the pins, you'd have to look to see inside the connectors. Just dip them in vinegar, wait for it to stop bubbling, then dip in fresh water to clean the acid off. Could be something as simple as this. But then I would think the pump would not work if it was that corroded... something down the road to think about.

https://youtu.be/sR7ETdPmAuo

Have you checked the vent line from the tank?If that's plugged,you're gonna damage that tank and(probably) get false readings as well.I've always filled mine up into the filler neck.Never had it flash like yours is.Try the two button hold like Hub said.See what's in there with codes.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 6/20/2020 @ 1:20 AM *

Behind the cylinder in the back, under the throttle body, there is a water pump sensor. Is it plugged in? Looks like an '07 with that blue color?

The piggy over the ecu boot is a relay box for the fuel pump anshit. Not the ecu, not the relay unit. Near the back of the ecu, look for a plastic boot over a small, maybe a two wire connector. This is where you plug in the factory code reader, but by using a paperclip, stab both ends into the connector pins so the horseshoe loop connects both with the paperclip. This shows how to read what code are present without the factory tool. Write them down and report all code numbers that popped up.

The piggy over the ecu boot is a relay box for the fuel pump anshit. Not the ecu, not the relay unit. Near the back of the ecu, look for a plastic boot over a small, maybe a two wire connector. This is where you plug in the factory code reader, but by using a paperclip, stab both ends into the connector pins so the horseshoe loop connects both with the paperclip. This shows how to read what code are present without the factory tool. Write them down and report all code numbers that popped up.

Try it. After I hooked up my Bazzaz inline to the stick coils on my busa, FI ERROR flashed on my display. And I was able to read the code by doing the paper clip jumper trick. Turned out one of the contacts on the stick coil wire bent just a tiny bit and was not connecting. The bike ran and sounded fine on 3 cylinders so I didn't know what the problem was until I got the code.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/21/2020 @ 6:36 PM *

update

wire harness is a hot mess. some of the wires were burned and not connected. will be tracing some of it tomorrow. omg

Good luck.

update the speedo MPH started working but the RPM wasnt. hmmmmm

four burned wires omg a mess pics coming soon