So, 5 months ago I was ridding (slowly) and started to hear a loud rattling noise.no compression on 1st cylinder

Engine opened, new, con rods bearings, new pistons rings, new timing chain and tensioner,
New head, head rebuilded(new valves,springs etc..)
Engine compression is now good but the rattling stiil persists.. I'm desperate..some ideas please. The bike is from 2008 but it's A6F code so from 2006.
62.000km on clock

Disregard.

Reread your post and saw where you already replaced the tensioner.

Hope you get it sorted.

* Last updated by: BIGO70 on 2/5/2020 @ 11:32 AM *

Video the rattle at idle. If you can't hear it at idle, then run the rpm up to hear it. A guess is cam chain tensioner not working.

* Last updated by: Hub on 2/5/2020 @ 8:01 PM *

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HUB, tensioner is new..APE manual

And it's a very loud noise..not the usual tensioner sound

* Last updated by: LTmaverick on 2/5/2020 @ 9:16 PM *

Did you verify the manual setting was correct? Maybe take off the cover and make sure the chain is not bad

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Did everything as the.manual says..
Probably need missed something but don't know what..

HUB, tensioner is new..APE manual

If the manual tensioner was adjusted, whoever adjusted it should have tightened it until the rattle stopped. Did you try adjusting the APE?

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Rook, the bike is still in the mechanic.
The problem is we don't know what the noise is..

The static crank take-up method: I'm going permanently mount the ape. I'm going to turn the screw and then move the crank CW and CCW until I have the slack taken up. I do not want to tighten the screw anymore, or I begin to eat the tensioner material. By having an ever so slight slack, and I mean an ever so slight slack, is to keep it from grooving lines dug into slipper from the chain.

Running method is not knowing if you have that ever so slight tension on the slipper or you are going to groove it and start eating parts contaminating the oil.

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You do the final adjustment with the engine running. You back off until you hear the timing chain rattle and then tighten it just until it stops. Check out my tutorial.

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Everyone insisted on the tensioner, because it is the most common reason.
There are more parts in a motorcycle engine that can rattle.
You didn't provide important details:
Is the noise coming from the engine or from the gearbox?
On the right or on the left side of the engine?
Is the noise equally mediocre or not regular?
A new tensioner may be faulty.
You can easily check:
1. Remove the tensioner.
2.Adjust the rod (socket wrench extension) to the hole (in place of the tensioner).
3. Insert the rod in place of the tensioner and press firmly with your hand.
4.Start the engine (pressing the rod all the time)
5. DO NOT RELEASE HAND PRESSURE TO THE ROD TILL THE ENGINE STOP!

IMPORTANT: Before inserting the rod, check that the tensioner skate is in place and is working (whether there is slack).

If the rattling has not stopped, you can exclude the tensioner.
Then give the details above.

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4.Start the engine (pressing the rod all the time)

According to the oil flow chart on page aim for the bucket, that hole is going to drop the oil pressure some, empty the crankcase, lose the oil pressure at the top end some, how to capture that psi when it comes out of the 'hole assist' for a better name for that tensioner/oil design, I recommend not to start the engine as described.

Rook, the old CB450 had eccentric type valve lash adjusters. It took more time to scrape and clean the paper off the cover and heads, they'd back off the shaft, let the rocker rattle, turn it back in till it stopped, locked it down. Know what happened? They ate cams and rockers because the lash was so tight to begin with. That gap was hand measured to 0.0015". Couldn't put a .002" thru it, it was that tight a spec for oil to capture that gap of oil. Rocker and cam running... good luck running the slipper the same way.

YEAR killing me, Larry's!!!

Signed,
NOLTT

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The problem is we don't know what the noise is..

Tick: That's after the lash has been checked. So you save parts and never start it again. You'll go from memory for this one. Lash tick is intermittent. Piston skirt tick is the slap of the piston changing direction from TDC to BDC.
The aluminum off the skirt rolls off that aluminum like snowballs being rolled up. So molten hot it leaves a line in the cylinder wall. Lose material you lose clearance and that tick is piston slap [when changing direction].

Knock: This is where the big end of the connecting rod uses inserts, not a roller bearing like the old Z1 cranks. That layer of aluminum bonded to the brass layer has that kind of old 450 clearance or less and if that is snowballed off, this creates a tick swing before a knock. That tick is the piston crown or the squish band area from head to piston... hits the head and ticks if you can hear it, but probably too late at that point.

Rattle: The access to the slipper is the right crank cover removed and with a pair of needle nose pliers, you move the slipper up and down to see if it holds in place or moves too much, is broken off, etc.

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Oil Filter: This is the quick and dirty, quit fucking around; tear it open and look for aluminum and brass insert material. Clean? Then start the bike, it's not the bottom end.

Oil Pan: This is the longer way around by pulling pipe, dropping pan and inspect. That's two choices of 'why fuck around', when you can clean the pan of gray matter material from the clutch pack and make the engine last that much longer without contamination build. Call the pan the gravity filter needing attention. You then can peek and push the big ends and see if the caps are blued from heat anshit.

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Hub
Does this engine have a hydraulic tensioner?
In older engines I always checked the tensioners this way - oil never spurted out of the hole (but the tensioners were mechanical)

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Does this engine have a hydraulic tensioner?

Yes. That's why you can hear the early design ratchet upon startup and then goes quiet when oil pressure is made. Oil flow chart shows crank to cylinder's main channel, up to tensioner, then up to the top end. So if you look in chapter 7 ~ 'oil lube system,' flow has to be narrowed down, meaning, entering the back of the plunger to hold it under pressure, pressure builds up then can travel up to the top end. With tensioner removed, flow takes the shortest path and never reaches the top end, but dumps out the side channel tensioner hole, and stops traveling up that main channel to the top end, that or low pressure up the main.

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Hub is good that you are watching
Ok, I understand everything - my mistake.
It's my idea for nothing.
He would have to make a special pipe to fill the hole (this would keep the oil pressure) - but it's too complicated to do.
But something seems to me that the problem is solved, or completed, because I do not write anything.

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It's my idea for nothing.

No it's not. If not for the hole, I would have agreed with your approach. Now if you want to pull the sparkstick connectors, or the main connector that the injectors/sticks use, hold the screwdriver and crank; maybe the noise will clear with that low an rpm.

But something seems to me that the problem is solved, or completed, because I do not write anything.

Sometimes you never hear what or how it was solved. Part of the game. Wait for the next post of some other problem and jump in. Sounds like your kind of stuff.

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