Just grabbed an 07 zx14 w/7100 miles...everything seems to be in good working order as expected...GREAT bike!....but i do have a question--There seems to be a little 'space' from the throttle starting position to the point where it moves the bike...if i'm in neutral, i can slightly push the throttle forward and it idles very low...

anyone have any experience or advice about this?...thanks!

That is normal but NOT desirable. Comes with about 1/8" throttle play from the factory.

Also, if you force the throttle closed past the stop, that is normal that the idle slows down but again, not something I would do on a regular basis.

You should try to adjust the throttle play to as close to 0 as possible. That way, you know when the power comes on as soon as you crack the throttle. No more searching for the beginning of the cable.

There are two cable coming from your throttle case to the inside of the throttle grip. One is a return cable, the other is a throttle open cable. Each cable has a plastic nut and lock nut. Loosen the lock nut, turn the other to tighten. Try to adjust them so there is no play in the throttle grip. Remember to tighten the lock nuts when done.

From the SM. You should get one of these.

Throttle Control System Inspection
•Check the throttle grip free play [A].
Throttle Grip Free Play Standard: 2 ? 3 mm (0.08 ? 0.12 in.)
*If the free play is incorrect, adjust the throttle cables.
Check that the throttle grip [B] moves smoothly from full open to close, and the throttle closes quickly and com- pletely by the return spring in all steering positions.
*If the throttle grip does not return properly, check the throt-
tle cables routing, grip free play, and cable damage. Then •lubricate the throttle cable.
Run the engine at the idle speed, and turn the handlebar all the way to the right and left to ensure that the idle speed does not change. If the idle speed increases, check the throttle cable free play and the cable routing.

If necessary, adjust the throttle cable as follows. •Loosen the locknuts [A] [B]. •Screw both throttle cable adjusters [C] [D] to give the
throttle grip plenty of play. •Turn the decelerator cable adjuster [C] until 2 ? 3 mm •(0.08 ? 0.12 in.) of throttle grip play is obtained.
Tighten the locknut [A]. •Turn the accelerator cable adjuster [D] until 2 ? 3 mm •(0.08 ? 0.12 in.) of throttle grip play is obtained.
Tighten the locknut [B]. If the free play cannot be adjusted with the adjusters, re- place the cable.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/10/2013 @ 5:58 PM *

Yep what he said, you are the man rook

@ROOK--...i did some searchin and found info about the cable adjustments...made a big difference when shifting gears, etc...there was way too much play, seemed like 1/2 inch or so...definitely appreciate the info bro!

Good glad to give you a tip. That was one of my first wrenching jobs I did on the 14. Shpould have a tutorial for that but I did it once and never had to do it over again.

Yes indeed, it sure makes those small throttle opennings a lot more predictable, doesn't it. It's much safer for street and for sport riding. Makes the bike feel a lot sharper. The slack is supposed to be a "safety zone so you don't accidentally sna; open the throttle. I have done this on a couple times. It is not something is going to happen at low speed during technical maneuvering. Maybe at higher speed in upper gears if you hit a bump by surprise.

Anyway, I think any amount of throttle play causes infinitely more risk than safety.

yeah bro--it did make a big difference, especially when pullin off from a light/stop...i agree-it feels a lot safer, and now i KNOW exactly where i'm startin and where all of that power will kick in...

Yeah, was definitely my first 'job' too-lol!...I tend to stay away from doing my own work on my bikes, usually because I want to be sure everything is tight and the way it should be when i'm doin triple digits!...i'm actually thinking about replacing my front brake pads myself...still a little skeptical about it, but it doesn't seem like anything i can't do...just want to be safe as possible on 2's!..(btw, any recommendations on pads?)

yeah bro--it did make a big difference, especially when pullin off from a light/stop...i agree-it feels a lot safer, and now i KNOW exactly where i'm startin and where all of that power will kick in...

Totally and also when keeping the throttle on just a crack to avoid engine braking in a corner.

.i'm actually thinking about replacing my front brake pads myself...still a little skeptical about it, but it doesn't seem like anything i can't do...just want to be safe as possible on 2's!.

You can do that. You can simply pull teh pins and clips. The pads come right out. HAVE A SHARPIE ON HAND AND MARK THE BACK OF EACH PAD SO THAT THEY CAN BE RE-INSTALLED (if need be) IN THE SAME POSITIONS. Left caliper: top/left in, bottom/left in, top/left out, bottom/left out.....same sort of thing on the right caliper. MARK AS SOON AS YOU PULL IT OR YOU WILL LOOSE TRACK OF WHAT WAS WHERE. ....which would be best to avoid. Might not be the end of the world but...you know.

Front and Rear Brake pad Replacement

I have only used EBC HH sintered and OEM. My EBCs work as good as OEM but they are quieter. No squeal at low speed ever.....until about 20,000 miles, now I feel a little judder at low speed.

If you have aftermarket rotors that will make a difference in what kind of pads work for you. My EBC scintereds suck with my CZ rotors.

...Thanks again bro!!...it doesn't seem difficult at all...i just might go ahead and do it myself and save about $100!..i THINK the previous owner kept the OEM rotors, but i gotta check...i'm gonna get the HH sintered EBC's--found them for about $55, which seems good compared to other prices i was given...thought about going for some new rotors too, but the ones on there are in great shape for now...prob do that in the off season if not before...i'll look into the CZ rotors that you mentioned...

$55? ..must be rear pads. Still sounds like a good deal. CZ rotors are made by Carrazzeria and most likely they will only be found on a Carrazzeria rim. The CZ rotors I have have 6 holes but it may be possible to join then up with a rotor carrier that goes to some other wheel? IDK. OEM wheels have 5 holes for rotor bolts. Anyway, if you are going to change rotors, might as well wait and do the pads at the same time so they all bed in together. Best to have pads that wear to one rotor instead of switching between two different rotors. That was what I was told but in the end, I think it is a financial decision. How much you want to spend and how perfect does it need to be. Seems that any rotors and pads will bed in together after some use.

Some aftermarket rotors really need certain brands of pads though. The EBC scinterds seem to bind and squak under hard braking on the CZ rotors. The EBC scinterd pads were great on both my OEM front rotors and OEM back, however.

yeah, checked on the info i had about the pads and the $53 was for one rotor-smh...plan on ordering them next week...

btw-how much different is it to have a 200 rear wheel as opposed to the factory 190?..i currently have a 200 on it...wondering how much it's affecting my cornering...