How do you set the throttle points on the pcv? What do you mean clutch basket banging?
Throttle points are what the directions tell you to do for your initial setup. I have no clue without product in hand. That is a Jeffo question, call me is call him is call him out and help the guy, Jeffo!! You're a member. Open source are we. If I had product, we would not be going through this. I stay stock. I do not need one [running stock pipes]... Sans, coming up with a question in a thread. I figure with enough pee-see owners, someone would piss up a How-To. You know I'd be pissing on it.
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Clutch banging: You want the long or short or add both together? OK, CB750's are notorious for a bellow kind of noise in the crankcase. A carb sync would solve the internal chain being slapped out of sync between, get this, the points are not perfect like FI. The carbs had to be sunk both low speed and each carb had to be sunk to the other as in equal pulses at the manometer.
See how much tune you had to match? You had to match both 1-4 points to match 2-3 points being equally firing at said crank position = Good Luck!
Next came the low speed screws that you just followed book and turn it out one turn. You know how much more tune is there, yet you just leave it at 1 turn out you follow book? Good Luck!
Last came the throttle 'idle sync,' where you have 4 carbs on their own, with their own slide at some idle position. You had to line up all the needles fluttering or merc levels to contend with back in the oldays.
This was the one and only cure to solve a knocking sound at idle, you pull the clutch in, the noise goes away = Simple sycn stopped the clutch from banging the locked plates back and forth in the clutch outer which then created the, "Bong Show." Budda-bing, Budda-BANG! All out of sync.
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Fast forward to today's FI, the points are gone and now it is perfect point to point in degree are the sparks = Smooth.
The elimination of each individual idle screw is now one screw for all 4 cylinders, eliminates [most of the] bang by leaps and bounds = Smoother.
Having the low speed screw select the best flow for each port [flows like a fingerprint], you now dial in the most = Smoothest.
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And when I say, "You have got to ride my bike"!... You are about to ride my bike, rebus!
NOTE: Sync first - Throttle point last. Yes, we will have a severe surge if the sync is out of a FI throttle body. Yes, clutch to chain to crank knock, we have the clutch pulled in, the noise goes away... In fact, go out to your bike, start it and pull the clutch in. Did it quiet down? Then you need a sync! One way of telling by a trained ear mind you, so start training yourself.
Tormenting the motorcycling community one post at a time