This freakin ZX-10R cam chain rattle is driving me nuts, 7000 miles now and the CCT still hasn't moved to next ratchet, sounds like a bloody Cummins diesel at idle.

Are all of the KHI CCTs this bad or do I need to replace this thing? Someone said to put the bike in 6th on a hill, shutoff the motor, roll backwards and let out the clutch and it will cause the CCT to pop into the next detent. Does that sound right, slackens the tension allowing it to self adjust?

My concern is that this thing get's loose enough to jump timing and destroy my motor, what a PITA, cause is a weak adjusting spring in the CCT.

Why not just pull the thing and put a manual CCT in and be done with it?

Mad

At the tensioner, is there a hex bolt and does it move as in a counter clock direction? So clockwise the tensioner moves in. Counter, this is where you bring the plunger back into the housing so you can install the housing. Then, place in 1st gear, slam the bike in reverse; this snaps out the tensioner. That's my rendition of not needing to find a hill, shift to 6th, etc. It's just a screwdriver in that tensioner backing anyway, you don't need that much of a whack at the release ring.

How about a generic zx-14 tensioner wire trick in a video? I remember the old tensioner style. If this has the same wiring, then yes, that wire has expanded out, can no longer hug the tensioner groove as if this reverse will help? No. More I show you what is happening as the plunger is moving in and out at idle, but is oil forced when running.

And no, the tensioner has to be removed before the chain jumps. That nose is too deep in and the tensioner too close to the chain to lift over. Or you'd have the valves tag by now.

Totally different design. My vid won't help the 10 crowd, but will with the first gen noise on a 14.

No point showing it, but I'll keep it up. That tiny 10 arm ratchet is holding a groove on that plunger. The 14's does not use that ratchet tooth pivot arm, but a wire that holds that notch in the plunger. So my attempt is yeah, run 1st gear, pull on the bars backwards, this runs the chain taught at the rear slipper, slipper tags the ratchet up, plunger moves out another notch. See if it quiets down running this static reverse adjustment.

I tried the sixth gear reset and it seems to have quieted down, moved to next notch but could move one more to get all of the noise out, may require a manual reset, remove the nut and push the ratchet with a screwdriver.

See, the reverse click-out seemed to do it. The manual move of one more notch; might bring on a too fast accelerating slipper. The arm [tension] upon it is now compromised. I'd leave it alone, let it naturally move forward... that, or wait and reverse-adjust in a few tank fulls, a 1000 miles or whichever comes first.

Roger that, thanks Hubmeister!