The one vent hole is the weather hole or the washing drain hole, you get caught or wash with water, etc. However, for this learning process of your generic tank vent tubes, you just blow thru the vent hole in the back of the tank or eye down the vent hole at the tank filler neck and now do you see you lining up the rain drain to tank nipple end? It is not about to cross over, meaning, so you know your weather drain tube is eliminated. Next tube...
... You keep the other two open. One goes to the tank recovery and the other goes to the emissions canister/pump housing. What you do is just golf-T the intake hose [used off the throttle body] that uses that one suck hose for the pump. I'm saying this being we can dual-discuss "how to open vent both or all 3 tubes" at the back of the tank.
Here is the no-no to any tank never played with; During a day's heat expansion in garage/outdoors, the tank is always burping. I can hear the tiny flapper in the gas cap singing I time in walking out to the garage for something say. Then say the owner's manual says not to overfill the gas tank.
The point is, you need to vent both hoses down past the hot engine. See, if that tank breathes and you topped off the tank past the lower filler ring, she will find that overflow tube, fill it, then dump it down the canister. Bike runs rough or rich, because that one cylinder pulling pump [red dot =throttle body vacuum] is dumping the raw gas [blue dot = gas overfilled past lower neck filler ring] into the canister to burn off.
Bottom line, you run open vents to atmosphere. You close the small [vacuum] line @ #4 throttle body cylinder so it does not suck air [if canister is removed = cough-cough* for racing purposes only]... that is your only warning. Other than that, you cannot* create* or destroy* gasoline no matter how you handle it... Geeeeeeeeeeeeee HAaaaaaaaaaaaaa gov*, get it?
* Last updated by: Hub on 2/3/2011 @ 11:36 PM *
Tormenting the motorcycling community one post at a time