This will likely end up a LONG post. Recently, I switched from my TD05-20 to a billet GTX30R (5755x) oil-less turbo from On3. These turbos don't need oil feed and drain lines, so no scavenge pump and extra lines needed, but they do need coolant lines. This isn't a big deal for us since we have the oil cooler right next to the turbo to tap into. My main goal was just to get rid of all the annoying oil lines after getting tired of dealing with oil issues, oil leaks from the air filter, oil backing up in the housing at idle since the mechanical scavenge pump is RPM dependent and my turbo sat low, etc and my buddy recently got a set of the larger version oil-less turbos for his Vette and I figured they would be perfect for a motorcycle. Just wanted to share some initial impressions and info on my recent swap to one of them in case anyone was interested. Not going to be a very structured post or a full review, just a few pros and cons off the top of my head. Might come back and clean it up later, but for now it will probably be all over the place as I think of things to add that may be relevant.

First, some caveats - I am not on a ZX14, but a Concours14 (lol yep, the fat ninja). Since Concours forums are basically just group chats to talk about windshields, seats, and what oil to run, I find the ZX14 groups and forums much more useful to me but I do sometimes forget to mention the difference so keep that in mind. This bike is SIMILAR to a gen1 ZX14, with nearly identical 1352cc shortblock, but has smaller cams, VVT on the intake cam (which is awesome!), a more boost friendly 10.7:1 compression, smaller TBs, and supposedly worse flowing heads that are "as cast" and not hand finished like on the ZX14. Its been quite an experience cross referencing parts catalogs to find what is the same and what is different on the Concours since very few people build them. Typically they put down like 140-145whp stock through the power eating shaft drive. The relevance to all this means my spool may be slightly different from what you guys would make, and also between the detuned motor and high drivetrain loss shaft drive my power is probably 40-50whp less mod for mod. I havent had it dyno'd yet but will share once I do.

Comparison wise, I was running a TD05-20G, which is a bit larger than the normal disco potato because I only wanted boost through the mid range and top end - my low end is already great with the VVT, and being shaft drive not only can I not stretch the bike but I also cant change gearing so my first gear is useless either way and making boost at 2000rpm doesnt do anything for me. With an upgraded extended tip billet compressor, my last setup was making positive boost right around 3200rpm, and being journal bearing it had some noticeable but acceptable lag and some transient response delay. At idle, the turbine spun, but it was pretty slowly. Off the top of my head its ~53.5mm/68mm, but the extended tip compressor extends the wheel OD to 73.5mm while also making it 3mm taller. The new turbo is slightly larger @ 57/71, but its dual ceramic bearing instead of journal bearing so it spools at almost exactly the same spot, if not sooner, while having BETTER transient response(how fast it makes more boost when its already in boost) and not dropping boost between shifts at light throttle like the TD05 did (IE, if cruising at ~3500rpm with boost gauge showing 1psi, if I shift the gauge would drop to 0psi during the shift then go back to 1psi. Now, it stays at 1psi). Rest of combo isnt too important but it has the HTP Fuelab pump and reg setup, ID1050XDS injectors, APE HD valvesprings and HD clutch springs, turbosmart compgate external WG, Woolich setup w/wideband and logging for tuning the IAP/vacuum tables, and a PC5 w/3bar MAP for pressure based fuel tuning. Fuel is E85, and boost is currently at 10psi.

Overall it has far exceeded my expectations - besides deleting all the oil lines and scavenge pump like I wanted, I ended up with better response from the larger turbo, which was unexpected. According to the often misleading Chatgpt, I was expecting ~300rpm later spool, but instead it stayed the same or even slightly improved. Also, with the larger exh side being less restrictive, the bike is noticeably more responsive off boost and seems to make more low end power when not on the turbo. If you look at the compressor map, this turbo will be best suited for running ~14-15psi of boost and making ~350-400 crank HP, which are my eventual goals once I build up my spare motor to handle it. For now, I am @ 10psi on E85 and likely "only" around 300hp crank, maybe a bit more, which puts me lower on the efficiency of the compressor map but still way more efficient than a GT28R. A zx14 with this same combo should make more at the wheel than I make at the crank, probably 320-330+, but taking that 40-50whp off puts me around 270ish whp in bench race land. Bike has some weight reduction and weighs just under 650lbs with the hard bags on, and around 630lbs without them (vs ~700lbs stock(!)). All in all, I am very happy with the setup and its just what I wanted - a super comfortable touring bike with adjustable windshield, heated grips, and super comfy seat that just happens to also pull on modern high end literbikes and busas :). Here are a few pics of the turbo, and an admittedly crappy pic of the bike - filthy after working on it.

I probably missed some stuff but this thread is getting crazy long, but I'm happy to provide any pictures requested or answer any questions.

* Last updated by: Puck on 6/4/2026 @ 9:23 AM *

To recap, this turbo is a GOOD choice if:
- You prioritize top end/mid range power from 5k+
- You want to keep your oil cooler and need to mount turbo lower to where it has issues draining oil
- You want to make 300+whp and run 10+psi, and have the supporting mods needed
- Believe it or not, if you commute and want good gas mileage. Since your boost starts just over 3k rpm, you can commute like normal and almost never see boost. I daily my much heavier Concours and I have averaged over 38mpg on E85 over the last ~10k miles!

This turbo is a BAD choice if:
- You want low end and need to see your boost ASAP
- You dont care about running a scavenge pump and/or deleting your oil cooler
- You only want the basic 4-6psi setup on a basically stock motor and you're happy with ~240-260whp
- You are on a strict budget

how often is the oil change interval in the turbo? curious to see it mounted on the engine with the coolant lines running through it as well. Also, did you look into any of the oil-less air cooled turbos that Comp sells? Here is a link to one:

https://www.turbokits.com/comp-ctr3081e-5858-air-cooled-1-0-triple-ball-bearing-turbo-650hp.html

* Last updated by: danmin on 5/21/2026 @ 12:16 PM *

The grease gets serviced every 3,000 miles and takes literally 2 minutes to do if you install it with servicing in mind - just unscrew a single allen plug on the bottom and pump 3-4 pumps worth of the special grease into the top zerk fitting until it starts coming out the bottom and then replace the plug, thats it. I made sure I rotated the cartridge so it can be done without removing any fairings so its quick and easy. The grease is still pretty expensive, but since it takes so little every ~3k miles, one 3oz tube will supposedly last 8-9 uses which is almost 30,000 miles worth. It was $130 for the grease gun prefilled with 3oz of grease so I'm set for the next 2-3 years, and by then the grease should be cheaper and available from more places than just on3 and Comp - I know VS racing is making oilless turbos as well now for Huronspeed, but I do not believe they sell them directly yet. They are the makers of the Huron branded turbos used in the C8 corvette kits. I havent found out exactly what the grease is yet but its some sort of super concentrated and thick Navy/saltwater grease that makes the Lucas "red and tacky" seem like crisco lol - I got some on my hands and it does NOT wash off with water, Gojo hand cleaner, Dawn dish soap, or even freaking brake clean so its definitely tough stuff. Closest thing to it I can think of would be the white PTFE grease that comes with poly suspension components, but its even thicker than that.

I did look at the Comp versions as well. They actually have a fully air cooled one that doesn't need oil OR coolant lines which is a dream, but its like $1900 and they also dont have one as small as the GTX30R which is already on the big side. So between being larger than I need and also another $600 more expensive I decided to go with the On3 version instead. The Comp would probably be great if shooting for 500+.

The turbo comes with banjo bolts and 90* 3/8 barbs for the coolant lines. Since I kept my oil cooler, I literally just cut the return line from the oil cooler that normally goes across the motor and connects to the radiator, and installed it to the rear barb that I installed pointing straight down, then the top barb goes to the radiator line that the cooler used to return to - super simple and only needed a single short length of heater hose.

I'll get some pics eventually

(edit: Looks like the Comp is on sale for ~1600 right now, but that is WITHOUT a turbine housing so its still ~2k once fully spec'd out if you want the same vband housing as the On3)

* Last updated by: Puck on 5/21/2026 @ 1:22 PM *

Quick pic of the big girl with the new turbo. Its filthy after a weekend of working on it but I guess its as close as you can get to a sleeper since its totally unassuming if you just see it passing by. I did have to lengthen the exh dump after this pic since WB was catching fresh air at idle causing a false lean and dumping a ton of fuel at idle. She's good now though.

So far my only complaint is that it doesn't whistle as loud as the modded TD05 until you really get on it, before it would start to whistle before it even spooled and I miss that sound lol!

how much boost are you running currently? what kind of intake temps are you seeing

I'm running 10psi (E85). I just checked my datalog from today since I have to retune it and for some reason Woolich is not logging my IATs. I added it to the log viewer and they just show -60 across the board. Not sure if the channels have to be added BEFORE taking the log but I have them there now so hopefully they will show tomorrow. With the size of the turbo and where I am in the compressor map they should be pretty good, even with the charge pipe basically against the radiator.

I am still tuning the IAP/vacuum tables first so no full pulls were done and it only saw boost once or twice so the IATs wouldn't have been too relevant from that log anyway.

Edit Update: I wasn't mistaken, there is no IAT monitoring for Woolich, which sounds super silly to me but w/e. I think a MaxxECU is in my future for the new motor since Woolich is not interested in supporting this bike even though it shares so much with the ZX14 that they offer way more features for. Race tools package, quickshifter, 2step, etc are all unavailable from Woolich for the Concours, even though they have it all for its ZX14 sibling.

* Last updated by: Puck on 5/28/2026 @ 2:16 PM *

Posted a message on the Woolich FB group since their support system has not been very helpful. IAT channel is stuck at -60 and doesn't show in Live View or my datalogs. I verified sensor is installed, connected, and working. Probably just not enabled for my bike even though its basically the same as the ZX14 - they dont have all the same features enabled for the Concours and when I messaged to inquire they just said all request are done on a popularity basis, and since my bike is not popular its doubtful it ever gets more than the minimum features so even though its almost identical to the ZX14 I dont have access to race tools, 2step, quickshifter, etc.

MaxxECU or Haltech might be my next move when I finish building the backup motor for some real power.

Small edit - forgot to mention a big difference that would effect spool as well, the VVT. Besides the cams being smaller, the Concours has a VVT intake cam, and with Woolich I was able to advance the intake cam at the low end before it starts to make boost, then retard it as it makes boost to make it act like a bigger cam, giving me quicker spool and in theory a wider powerband vs a larger but non-VVT cam like the ZX14s. Of course I don't think anyone has actually tested the same turbo with and without VVT on these motors, but if I get some dyno time in the future I could disable the VVT by locking it to neutral and test before and after to see the effect on spool.

After a couple weeks of daily riding the new combo I'm very happy with the setup. Spool is actually slightly sooner than the smaller journal bearing TD05, and it picked up power noticeably everywhere and I had to retune the entire map. Off boost, the larger turbine flows much better and is less of an exhaust restriction so it became lean in cruise but two quick autotune sessions on the Woolich sorted that out.

Only have two minor negatives - exhaust noise noticeably louder and certain RPMs/speeds drone and are kind of obnoxious now. Also, as corny as it feels to say, it doesn't whistle as much or as loudly when off boost and early in the spool which I kind of miss lol.

Overall recommended. Price wise its not TOO crazy compared to some of the insane $2k+ turbos from big names like Comp and Garrett.

It did pick up a TON of water when I rode home in the rain one day, filling the airbox up to the velocity stack and making me panic thinking I blew the motor when it started misfiring, but after literally vacuuming my airbox and three back to back oil changes I added one of those "water resistant" poly filter socks and will make a shield for it to keep the front tire from soaking the filter.

* Last updated by: Puck on 6/4/2026 @ 9:26 AM *