warm up prob not a bad idea but i don't think it would be necessary they can't have anymore lock tight on them as the kick stand bolts lol they should break loose easy enough. might be interesting to do 1 cold and the second warm to see if it makes a difference and post your results

* Last updated by: scottjkyl on 3/7/2012 @ 7:20 PM *

how bout taking some pics of the install and post em up in the how-to section with any recommendations you may have after doing it

Warming up bolts will always make them turn easier, won't it? What do you do if all else fails and you cant break loose a bolt? HEAT. I'm no old pro but in all the times I have seen heat applied, it has worked,, even on some pretty extreme rust situations.

scootn, I know lots of people have no problem supporting the bike under the oil pan but that is aluminum. You do NOT support your compact cars on their alum oil pans ever. The bike is light but if the pan bends, you will lose performance. Might not even know it ever happened. That is why I don't support the bike on the oil pan. I guess if it is just the engine, that is not as bad as the whole bike. be sure to avoid the drain plug guard and also use a piece of wood that covers as much of the bottom of the oil pan as possible.

I am putting on sliders soon too so I'll have to be doing what you are doing.

Most of the service-removable locktite can be heated to allow less torque needed to remove.

Some of the really permanent stuff has to be heated very hot, and even then you need a long bar to generate enough torque to break the fastener free.

I just had the two left side engine sub-frame bolts out, the ones that anchor it to the backbone on the left side. They came out without heat, and minimal torque, and had orange locktite on them. This is an example of service-removable, but I'm at a loss why KHI used 572/4 Orange on those bolts, since they don't need to be pressure sealed (example, bolts holding case halves together).

I put them back in with blue surface-insensitive loctite (actually, Permatex) and torqued to spec. Blue surface-insensitive is plenty strong enough and plenty vibration resistant.

But I'll keep an eye on them and if the bolts lose torque I'll step it up to a red semi-permanent.

Just read my LSL sliders install sheet. They recommend removing 1 engine mount bolt/time. HAve not tried this yet but perhaps that will make the engine support a nonissue--or less of an nissue?? I guess I would support the motor anyway, JIC.

If you only take out one engine bolt at a time, you don't need to support the engine. Remember, its also held firmly on the other side as well.

Be sure to torque it to spec, thats where most of the troubles probably come from, not doing that.

Thanks, Priv.