I went to all the motorcycle shops in my area yesterday to check the price to get a coolat flush and oil change, and the prices didn't make any sense..the cheapest price I was quoted was $450. So I decided to do everything myself. But I misplaced my owners manuel and don't know how much oil and coolant is needed...

Full manual here:

https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=7E306F7E-1372-66AE-3BF5C2F1B1DCEF33

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RADIATOR FLUSH AND COOLANT CHANGE

I don't think anyone has ever done an oil change How To.

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I don't think anyone has ever done an oil change How To.

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Do it Rook that would be the easiest how to for you to make!

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That might be helpful to owners who have never experienced an oil change on any motor EVER. The 14 as we know, has all the oil change parts at easy access. There are a few things worth mentioning for . 1) very slight tip over risk. 2) aluminum threads in oil pan--use torque specs.

3) oil filter threads on until it touches the engine case, then how much??? I go until I can't turn it with my hand anymore. It's about 3/4 turn after it just touches the motor. ...hand tight + 1/4 turn with a wrench if you don't want "rassle" with it.

does that sound about right? been a few months since I changed oil on the 14 + I'm changing oil on 3 vehicles.

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that sounds spot on to me rook

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3) oil filter threads on until it touches the engine case, then how much??? I go until I can't turn it with my hand anymore. It's about 3/4 turn after it just touches the motor. ...hand tight + 1/4 turn with a wrench if you don't want "rassle" with it.

does that sound about right? been a few months since I changed oil on the 14 + I'm changing oil on 3 vehicles

Rook, sounds good to me too. If the basic "3/4 to 1 turn" works for cars then it should work for the 14.
Only thing I'll add is.....I like to use the Purolator Pure One oil filter, PL14610, because many here recommended it when I bought my '07 new. Since it comes painted a mustard color I have to paint it satin black. When I tighten it down I want to be sure it's tight and without damaging the new paint. This tip might help others even if they don't need to worry about the paint.
I wrap a little rubber tape around the oil filter, just enough to go around once with a little overlap. I buy the basic 3M 1" rubber tape. If you prefer to just tighten by hand but you think you're not tightening quite enough then the rubber tape gives you a stronger grip and you can turn it more without hurting yourself. If you still want to use a strap wrench then you can do that too without any damage to the paint. Heck, the rubber strip I use can be used again and again if tightened just by hand.
I don't know what filters you guys use or if color matters, but the factory black Kawasaki filter is about $10/11 when I bought one in '07 and the Pure One filter was $6 recently. I don't care about the $4 savings, it's the better filter I want and if I have to paint it then so be it.

$450 to change the oil and coolant????? can you say "rip off?"

Mad

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Changing oil / filter is too easy to pay deal to do it.

Remember to smear some oil all the way around the rubber o-ring on the filter before you put it on.

I turn mine on by hand only. Turn until it seats firmly, then grab it with all fingers and turn it 1/4 turn.

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It will go on easier than it comes off. Mine often gets crushed a bit taking it off. Don't go more than 1/4 turn past hand tight or it will be a problem next oil change. if you don't see or feel a leak after the job is done, no need to go tighter. Er on the side of looseness.

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That's why I like the K&N filter. Has a nut on the back, same size as drain plug, and already black.

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+1 on the K&N filters

Rook I take it 1 step further on the bike and car I fill the filter with oil before installing it gets oil to the motor a sec or 2 faster

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Not a bad idea but You can't actually fill it. Tried that. Most of it ends up running back out before you can get it screwed on tight.

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is there such thing as a BEST oil to use? i know synthetic is the way to go but is mobil 1 better than amsoil? Whats a good oil filter? im doing the flush and oil change tomorrow when the weather clears up

* Last updated by: lschevy on 3/13/2012 @ 1:23 PM *

is there such thing as a BEST oil to use?

There are zillion oil threads here and on any MC forum. Everyone has their own opinion. Mine is Fresh oil is best oil. I have used only Kawa oil, Repsol 4T Synthetic Race oil and Rotella Full synthetic. never noticed a big dif. They all are great when fresh. Repsol looses it's slickquiet quality with 500 miles. Rotella lasts a long time. Kawi lasts a thousand miles before it starts to loose its lubricative quality.

i know synthetic is the way to go

Lots of people recommend synthetic over conventional. IMHO, conventional is every bit as good but breaks down faster. I think it is an excellent engine longevity strategy to use conventional and change a lot more often. Use cheaper oil and dump it before it breaks down.

I believe that You will have a lower risk of oil leakage if you do NOT use synthetic oil. The choice is yours. I am using Rotella now but as mentioned, a good conventional motorcycle oil will work just as good if you change it often.

Whats a good oil filter?

OEM.. There are high flow aftermarket filters but my feeling is that they are not worth the risk of possibly filtering less thoroughly. Same goes for air filters.

im doing the flush and oil change tomorrow when the weather clears up

Good luck. Be prepared for a full day of work if this is your first go at those jobs.

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Changing the oil cant be to much different than changing oil in my car, and the coolant flush can't be that hard...why do you say it will be a full days work?

Th oil change will be easier than you'r car. That can be fdone in 20 minutes but I still recommend budgetting an hour even after you know what you are doing.

If you have drained coolant and bled system on a car, I'm sure it will be easy on your 14. I never did a drain flush on any vehicle before so it was a learning process. I'm sure I spent a good 6 hours. Throw in a couple more for taking pics to create the tutorial. I think that is a very realistic figure for a first time newbie like myself..

I don't underestimate time. You can create more problems than you solve if you are not flexible and generous with your wrenching time. That is why the shop fucks up so much, you know?

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I don't underestimate time. You can create more problems than you solve if you are not flexible and generous with your wrenching time. That is why the shop fucks up so much, you know?

+1 You’re on a bike that can go 186mph stock double and triple check everything you do!!!

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Hey rook I read your how-to on the coolant flush...i will be using engine ice I read that you dont have to mix it with water. My question is do you think the left over water after the flush break down the coolant by any chance

I did my first oil change this past weekend at 400 miles on my 14R. The metal particles in the oil and filter were unbelieveable.

I bought the OEM filter, P/N 16097-0004 from Ron Ayers for $8.32. These Denso filters are of very high quality and offer both high flow and dirt holding capability that simply isn't possible with the pleated paper filters that are so common in the industry.

I took the OEM filter to the auto parts store and matched it with a cap wrench that fit perfectly. I ended up buying a Performance Tool branded oil filter wrench for a Toyota filter, tool P/N W54118, for $5.89. Can you believe Kawasaki wants $32 for a oil filter wrench? Crazy!

For oil I used Kawasaki full synthetic. I got it for $8.95 per quart. It's made by Citgo, boasts a impressive product data sheet, and should work well. Only time will tell. Oddly, now my motorcycle emits a odor of smoldering oak wood. Seriously,,, how on earth can a oil change make my bike smell like a campfire? No matter, I'll run it this interval and then try Mobil-1 10W-40.

Mobil-1 motorcycle oil is on sale through the later part of March at Advance Auto Parts for $7.99 per quart if anyone wants to try it.

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Ive run mobil1 and actually sent a sample to Blackstone Labs and it held up really well I will get some when its on sale thanks for the heads up

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..i will be using engine ice I read that you dont have to mix it with water. My question is do you think the left over water after the flush break down the coolant by any chance

I am not familiar with engine ice so I can't give you a reliable answer pertaining to that product. I can say YES, the residual water left after the flush WILL dillute anti freeze coolant. I estimated the amount of water that was left in the system by measuring the amount poured in and what came out in the flush. I believe it looked like there was about 8-10 fl oz of water that "sticks in the system. I did not remove one of the large hose on the left --the one with the spring coil on it. That sucker prolly holds 6 fl oz tha cannot be drained unless you pull an end off and dump it.

Read the comments after the thread. There is a discussion about residual flush water contaminating and leaning up the mixture. buck20 had a great idea. Flush with coolant and that will eliminate the whole problem.

I'm sure you will not want to flush with engine ice because of cost. Also, I would say it must be a very safe bet that distilled water will mix just fine with Engine Ice. Only prob, the distilled water will lean up the engine ice.

I doubt that some water in your engine ice coolant will cause any deleterious effects on the cooling performance.

I do not believe engine Ice is an antifreeze. That is where a little water contamination could have an impact if your bike is stored in very cold conditions. even then, antifreeze that is not cold resistant rarely ever forms a solid mass of ice that will break an engine or radiator. It turns to a slushy and proll never any worse.....but that again is not something I want to chance so I try to get my 5 balls to float.

Check on the antifreeze protection of Engine Ice. I do not think it has ANY so be prepared to switch over to Motorcycle coolant for aluminum engines for cold storage. Don't use ordinary antifreeze or it will react with the aluminum and cause all sorts of clogging scale and crap in the system.

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Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant is an antifreeze offering freeze protection to -26oF (26 degrees below zero)

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