I am back .. Just missed teh 14 and the track a bunch, so when I found out that my bike spent a cold winter up north and came out of it with something wrong, Drastically wrong, owner and I reached an amical resolution and I brought the bike back home. Neither of us considered that I still had water wetter in the bike when it went north, which may have contributed to teh problem. I have not opened it up yet to find what is wrong but water into the radiator soon fills the crankcase...fast.. so will just have to open it up and see .. All exterior lines are good obviously and teh lines in teh oil cooler are good so into the motor we will go cause I dont think Barsleak will fix this one :)

* Last updated by: chrly on 10/14/2025 @ 7:40 PM *

First off welcome back chrly!! The oil cooler would be a good place to check and could be easily tested either on or off the bike. Plug one hose outlet and pressurize the other to a maximum of 15-20 psi. The second place I'd look would be the water pump which is easily removed and is shaft driven from within the motor. Looking at the parts listing the housing is o-ring sealed to the crankcase and if it froze it could push the inner seals outward allowing the coolant into the motor. If you find the oil cooler failed I believe I have 2 which have to be removed for the turbo installation. Happy to know you've been reunited cause it feels so good...

Great info Rick, just what I was looking for and thanks for the welcome. now all I gotta do is get my butt down there and get to work. I pulled the oil cooler off and checked it and it was fine but I have not pulled the water pump I will do that. Probably tomorrow. It’s great to have the green thing back in the garage !

* Last updated by: chrly on 10/15/2025 @ 8:29 AM *

I saw a post yesterday on FB of a cylinder head that had popped a freeze plug out. It was located in the top under the cams. I asked the poster if it was a 14 head but have not heard back yet, it sure looked like one. I looked in the parts diagrams and the cylinder head lists 4 92066-**** 18x10 plugs which look to be freeze plugs with no thread or pitch listed as is typical for any bolt or nut. This should be easily seen with the cam cover removed. That's not an easy task but I just checked my valve lash and it's not too crazy. I'm interested to know what failed myself...

I still haven't received a reply and looking closer at the throttle body boots this may be a Busa head though I expect the 14 head is similar with the 4 plugs listed. You can see the oil/water mix and how the water would run through as quick as it's poured in.

* Last updated by: Fordtech58 on 10/17/2025 @ 9:04 AM *

I am helping my son move for a couple of days so it’ll be Monday probably before I can get after this thing. I am also very very curious as to what happened.

Start it up with the radi cap removed, water topped off, now start it. You see bubbles, it's a blown or eaten away head gasket ring.

The ring is the crimped steel ring around the piston's diameter. This will get so red hot, deteriorates as it hot's the paper away and burns it at the water jacket and there is one way to find a leak into the crankcase. That, or pressurize each cylinder to find who is leaking.

That water wetter is pink in color> It will eat/rot the aluminum tubes it feed into/out of. Tore down a race engine and ate the hose nipple the hose slides onto. Puked pink liquid and dried out all over the hose and water pump housing.

Hub . Water goes thru radiator to crankcase almost as fast as I pour it in the radiator.

Well it's the dreaded pull engine and teardown I guess.

Yep kinda pointing in that direction... Funny tho. with oil in and no water , I started it up and idled for less than 5 seconds but no unusual noises ?? Reall curious as to what happened that would let the water run thru as fast as it does. It would be nice if I was a mechanic but I will just have to wait for shop to get time . Racing is done for the year anyway.

That's why I suspect the cylinder head freeze plugs. They're listed as 18x10 meaning they'd have an 18mm diameter and a 10mm wall where they're pressed into the head. If that's what's found they may be replaceable with the engine in the chassis, cams removed and engine pivoted lower on the rear mount with all others removed.

On the optimistic side, I ordered plugs yesterday .