Can anyone tell me how I could know if a balancer was out of adjustment?I was reading about HOW to adjust...but it said nothing about "symptoms".Thanks all.

It's usually a vibration. But it can be a whinning noise also. Had a tech tell me once that it could even cause a knock but I have never heard that.

Thanks Heathun...hope everything's goin okay for ya...getting in lots of rides I hope.I guess the only real way to know IF it's out of adjustment,is....to adjust per the manual.If it feels different,then it needed it.Ride safe bro!

blue heres a thread on it maybe it will help

http://www.bikeland.org/board/viewthread.php?FID=27&TID=53110

hey blue just go this route

http://www.schnitzracingstore.com/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=5129320

Ya Scotty...just awesome..."engine removal necessary for installation"...or some such nice simple mod. Think I'd FIRST go with a "re-adjustment" by the book.Not even sayin it needs it...hell,IDK.She feels fine.Nothing weird or different.Just you know,as we add up the miles,some things start happening that are so subtle we may not even realize it's occuring UNTIL we "redo" some things.I "think" she feels the same as when I first got er...but that's been 3 years ago,and several different configurations as far as drive train and engine use go.Ah,most likely leave er be.Maybe sometime up ahead.Thanks for the links though.The Shnitz route is DEFINITELY a NOT!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/22/2010 @ 8:54 AM *

Blue, it only takes a few minutes and it's simple. If you use a long flat head and have a long opened end wrench you can do it without removing any body work. Adjusting them just to make sure won't hurt anything, just make sure he's warmed up and idle down to warm idle.

Okay Heathun....thanks man...I'll most likely do it then here after a bit.Just for the heck of it.Certainly won't hurt anything doing it like the manual says....simple sounding anyway for a tard like me.

It's a simple straight forward job just follow the manual and adjust them in the order it states. I think it says to adjust the front first but double check. Don't loosen the locking nut too loose just enough to be able turn the adjuster so it doesn't move while your locking it back down.

Are we thinking this is a cam chain/drive chain adjust my balancers? Needle bearing wear is knock-knock if there is no noise, it's like saying, I'm going to remove the cams and realign them as if that is one big roller sitting in a bearing and where is it going to go?

Like pulling the wheel bearing out, and now reinstall it, she is good to go. Eccentric is the gear up against a gear my line bore. Once it is set, it is set. Don't bring up some off the wall it went away is one bike or two with a knock noise.

How can you compensate for a rubber cush-drive where you would feel a bump on lift and drive is a cush drive knock. You knock out the parts and change them, not set a gear up tighter up against another gear is the whine on the eccentric jamming that gear into the crank's gear.

Needle bearing needlessly waste your time go ahead, ain't my bike is more a logical look at that needle bearing and where is that going to go; think wheel bearing but gets worse with or without a whinear.

Whatever you do, DON'T remove the balancers. I'm certain if it weren't for that my bike would still be entirely streetable. But now, it vibrates so bad I refuse to ride it on the street. Don't do it!

Page 2-1 and 2-2. Show me where the interval is to change the whine on the service a balancer needs adjusting like a drive chain.

I'm not gonna do anything with em.Just wondered if anyone had experienced this.Thanks all.

Hey slow did you have the crank balanced when you installed the stroker ?

Nope just ordered it from muzzy

I had to have them balanced or i had some of them shake pretty bad!
L/balance the crank/carpenter head and pro-street here you come .......

Ancient American proverb "If it ain't broke don't fix it"