When you flash an ECU it is first erased, this is done automatically when you hit the "Write" button. The Unlock ECU menu item is for ECU's that have been locked, this function allows you to unlock the ecu and it reads out the bin file then flashes an unlocked version of the bin file back into the ECU.

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Thanks, Oz/Justin.

I sorta got the 3-D map showing a timed cell, call it. The longer the cell block, the longer the duration to start sooner at higher rpms.

So yes, you figure the reversengineering is if you can change a TPS number, you'll have to match that sort of pascal type math to calc from either table. So the math of the one number [pick either map] will alter the other map so it matches no matter who you enter on what map.

Since numbers are foreign to me, the formulas I'll screw up, rather, check the 3-D map. I can see how the low rpm range has this gully drop at the 1800 to 3000 rpm [cruise range]. You have to figure we are at that rpm in 6th on the highway. That sure looks like a leaner setting?

And when you are in the upper rpm, the 3-D map looks like a mountain ridge. So, this is where, now here is my approach of the thinking. I'm going to cut/paste the mountain ridge so it looks more like a horizon = Smoothing.

Now, this pops in my head as to see the pascal method of the sub vs. the TPS vs. the IAP. This tells me if this is an accel mode gully, meaning, set the closing of the sub here, so match the fuel here too?

We understand where yes, match the TDC and degree back from there? Now, watt is being used are the other numbers. I need the abstract of that number. I agree, Oz, it's a duty cycle number, but what is the range, if 14.7 is a range, and the vac goes from there is the cmHg range, then which formula are we using if the Pa is in pascals? That is reverse the engineering. Some math head could tell. It's all about the basics.

Steps to toggle and click are one thing... I'm now inside the box so... Now... Sea me in a pool of clicks inside, but I'm after something totally different in some way, inside?

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When you flash an ECU it is first erased, this is done automatically when you hit the "Write" button.

Understood the automatic way. But with the raw button of the drill down menu, I hit erase, I am doing the same thing thing is this one step. I now load the stock files on top of the erase say for argument sake, as how the chip works like an old reel to reel tape player say.

I'm trying to collect the steps for that how-to. I know there is a sequence I'm trying to collect. I'm both studying the 3-D and how to play withatrick? I'm going to figure out who's Pa to use? Unless someone already knows which pascal triangle [formula] it is?
Is how I'm going to answer my own [reversengineering] questions as if outside the box again.

I needed a hobby: my nephew stopped building his choppers. So thanks, Justin for keeping my favorite obsession going = DFI [digital fuel injection]

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you figure the reversengineering is if you can change a TPS number,

Hub I found it much easier to work with the entire map as a whole and except what was already straight in front of me. As you can now see the numbers will make you go blind in a few hours. Keep to the Fuel Air Spark that you have always played. Forget the reverse as there is no need ???

I'm going to answer my own [reversengineering] questions as if outside the box again.

If you keep on this path you will soon be in the funny farm and your best work will pushed back 6 months to a year if you don't go Crazy.

There are no gear maps, and we all know the bike behaves different in different gears - unless the TRE only affects ignition (it might, but I doubt it).

Gear maps for flies only. Ignition = RPM from 1 to 6. (N) has it's own timing map which is very aggressive. Don't play here,,, ask me how I know ?

Hub what justin has set up as default is our safety blanket. Each time we open up his software the default compare for our what is to be a Newly created map lies in the back ground,,, So after each test run, click new ZX-14R and the stock flash for that make and year will erase and flash back in over the top with out worry, If needed. Nothing is ever lost.

After you click write you will always be asked if you want to save. Here choose your names carefully as they will make you nuts later.

Keep asking as we must ramp you up in the forward. Great things await me tinks.

Yeah, I have my ECU sitting here all ready for some sort of move. I'm slow, watt can I tell ya?

Gear maps for flies only. Ignition = RPM from 1 to 6. (N) has it's own timing map which is very aggressive. Don't play here,,, ask me how I know ?

Well that's what I'm looking for. Is N the backup? Am I about to set an N hack, burn an N setting in and low and behold. See what I'm saying? The parts inside besides the clicks.

It's either in hard or soft settings. It is either in stock or I burned in a backup mode without the hack. Budda boom budda bing! I answered my own question.

Hub what justin has set up as default is our safety blanket. Each time we open up his software the default compare for our for our about to be Newly created map lies in the back ground

Understood. It's a little like photoshop. There are saved 'layers.' So layer wise, I see this saved backed up bin files loaded on the hard drive.

So after each test run, click new ZX-14R and the stock flash for that make and year will erase and flash back in over the top with out worry. Nothing is ever lost.

OK. I see that you better save that file, because you found something. Which now I was not thinking is the 3-D is showing the full 2-D cell grid. Hit my head icon, I'm trying to match color with fuel to time with cell, but the cell is the same block no matter the position. I know the number calls the degree and the fuel number calls that too.

So when you said 'ask me' about N, I went to safe mode and the ignition table was a flat number across the board, and d'uh! So that concept said half of the abstract fits, now each square in 3-D'uh, fits that puzzle nowatt was I thinking? So yes, that looks like 17 is safe, 33 is the OE, and the N bangs at the 44 degree range, yeah, that grid of cells looks pretty aggressiveyelikeyelike.

Keep asking as we must ramp you up in the forward. Great things await me tinks.

Me tinkering too me thinks. I'm going to make my first attempt are the steps in that how-to. See if I have the steps as I'm going to attempt it blind.

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Me tinkering too me thinks. I'm going to make my first attempt are the steps in that how-to. See if I have the steps as I'm going to attempt it blind.

Is N the backup? Am I about to set an N hack, burn an N setting in and low and behold. See what I'm saying? The parts inside besides the clicks.

I too wondered this. If it were so, my Turbo Bike would be in a thousand pieces of that you can be sure.

Excellent,,, Each tuner will have a different approach. It only stands to reason we all should End up in the same place. But, so far that is not the case,,,but it should be, No ?

That's the only reason I bought this was to see if we are just doing the same thing inside [some things mind you] as we could outside? That's why I'd like to see that map fly in real time, rev the engine, watch how those cell numbers ramp the math out? Not that I can figure out a math formula, but I'm guessing it's in Pa values. I'm off to study pascal moves and figure out who comes close to these fuel numbers?

And I still have ninja's '06 stumbler running ECU. Love to see if some cells are dropped out in blanks? Man, that was a trip to see how that did affect the driveability. Now if you could burn over that map, run the OE bin over it and see if it was a map or there is a channeling defect at this certain rpm range, meaning a hard part on the motherboard? Then, I'd have to find some 14 and swap it out and see if that was it? Fun crap like that.

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Anyone familiar with the toggling of the box? I'm a little confused. Justin said to set the toggle back to center when you want to do a change. So the steps can be looked at two ways.

1. I load the fuel map, make changes, toggle to center. This burns the fuel map changes.
2. I now load a timing map, switch back to the right on the box and begin changing the ign map. I make changes, I toggle to the center so this burns this map change?
3. I toggle back to the right, click to burn the changes, save the map, etc. Is this one way of doing it?

The other way is:
A. I load and change every map on right toggle which is write/burn and never move the switch from the right postion.
B. I do not need to toggle every map back to the center toggle I make a map change.
C. I do all my changes with each map, do not need to toggle. I only toggle one time to save what I changed in all maps.
D. I now go to the center toggle once I'm finished with all my map changes. This saved the changes, I now switch back to the right toggle, I am now ready to burn.

Do we see the two moves? One works or both work, I added too many steps? I am missing a step?. Which is it? Many thanks.

* Last updated by: Hub on 8/24/2013 @ 9:08 PM *

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Hey Hub. Good to see there's a bunch of us playing around with these things now.
The whole toggle thing goes like this..... You do whatever the hell you like on your computer and save your changes. When you're hooked up to the bike you set the interface from centre to the right. This puts the interface into "read/write mode".
Each time you want to get the interface to either read OR write, you switch the interface from the right back to the centre (which is kind of like priming/resetting it), THEN you set the switch to the right and it's ready to either read or write again. EACH TIME you perform a read OR write, switch it from the centre position (prime/reset), to the right (read/write). Just remember right to write. The action of either reading OR writing is still performed by hitting the command button on the laptop.
Hope I didn't confuse you with that.

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Thanks, sweet. Let me walk you thru it so I think we are both on the same page.

I'm in right switch and have the ign map up. I made my changes. I set the toggle to center. I wait for some command or just toggle it on and off once, meaning back to the right. Say this is like shutting off the computer so it saves in memory the changes you made. You are back to the right, open the fuel map, make changes, toggle to center, toggle to the right. Select 'Write ECU' and this becomes one map, one new burned ECU, I select "Save," not 'save as.'

And if you read up about maps, there is all this math needed. I have zx10 injectors for the R. I would need to know the flow rate of that injector. I would need to know what the fuel numbers are in those columns against who's numbers? Those cell numbers run off of so many variables needed, I'm catching up on megasquirt's site.

If anyone is making map, the variables stack up. I send you a map... GetoutHAhere! The gas you use, the air you are in, how wet you ride thru the air, what ambient and humidity, meaning. So to make a desert map and send it to bangdang dingdong, something should light up in the head about map making and the math needed are those numbers.

So the next confusion trying to reverse the numbers, the manual says Pa as in mmHg pressures. So if we are load based with the vacuum (IAP) sensor, might the numbers be in Pa, as in a pascal type of calc? That cut and paste stuff is guessing at it. If we knew that number to calc off of, you see where I'm trying to tune a map this way? Not that I can gather all those variables and now divide all this up as the correct millisecond.

And then there is this 'filtering' section. Some of those radio entries are blank. So what are all those about? I figure this shit is like changing brass in a carb bowl, so I might as well get my brain wrapped around this new way of brass'inn up. The future is here, the confusion is clear.

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Hub.... I think you are asking if the toggling of the switch performs any actions on the bin file on the computer? It doesn't. It also doesn't initiate anything with the ECU either. It merely gets the interface and ECU READY/PRIMED to receive commands or files from the computer.
Like this: Connect and switch interface to the right (read/write mode). Give a command ie. "read ECU". Make and save changes to the bin file, or "open" another file. Toggle switch to centre and back to the right again (read/write mode), this gets the interface & ECU READY to perform another read or write operation. You do this each time you want to perform another read or write on the ECU, you toggle the switch to the centre, then back to read/write mode again. You still have to tell the computer to "send" or "read" etc to the ECU. All toggling the switch on the interface does is gets the interface and ECU READY/PRIMED to talk.
Does that make sense?

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Yes thats exactly right, good explanation sweetfa65 :)

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Thanks, I just wanted to make sure. Here are my steps. If I save, I cannot change. If I save as, I can change things. Those are the two differences between save and save as: is how I understand the two. That said, I want to save whatever can be read is to the right. When I move to center, like I said? It's like you shutting off the computer to save the changes, right? So I am going to set the toggle to the right, back to center, back to the right and save this OEM file twice.

So going to center is setting the changes to ROM. When to the right, you are writing out in RAM. Toggling to center saves that RAM type of radio click, or cell you changed, is set to read only this memory [ROM] you changed.

So the question was if I stack up all my changes, toggle one time, I only saved the last move. You get it? I get it if we are saying the same thing.

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So the question was if I stack up all my changes, toggle one time, I only saved the last move. You get it? I get it if we are saying the same thing.

"All" changes that are made to the map are saved in software, once you click write all are saved in ECU and on your hard drive. Unless, you say no to saving the info. Then is only saved in the ECU. Make sense ?

Lets look at it two ways. You tell me if both work or only one works?

A. I can bring up every click and change I want. Once I am finished bringing up every map and made those changes, I pull toggle to center and back to the right = It saved all I did and now burn it.

B. I have to bring one map up and when I make a change, I toggle to the center, toggle to the right, I now saved this one map. Move on to the next and then the next, my fingers are numb from the toggling of every map I change. Get it? I have to center the toggle so as to save the last move as we go. Then, whatever map is up, I toggle to the right, I now am good to burn all changes.

See those two moves? Which one works or do they both work if you make either move? So the moves are both doable or only one is the combination... Switch is it?

* Last updated by: Hub on 8/27/2013 @ 6:20 AM *

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Hub, you need to separate the Interface from the software.

The Interface reads and writes to the ECU and is controlled entirely by the software (apart from moving the mode switch that bit you have to do).

The software allows you to edit the maps and settings and save them to your hard drive.

The only connection between the software and the interface is when you click the read or write buttons. i.e. moving the mode switch on the interface will not save the bin file on the computer in the software.

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The only connection between the software and the interface is when you click the read or write buttons.

To the right, yes, I understand what the right click does. Yes, I understand what the center toggle does when moved there.

i.e. moving the mode switch on the interface will not save the bin file on the computer in the software.

Moving the switch to which position?

Study my two moves. Either they both work, or one is the charm. I'm understanding all the moves but this toggle. I can loophole one or I can't. So is A the move or is B doing the same thing? It's like saying, if I toggle once with all the files modified, that saved what I did.

Same as saying, I can pull up any map, toggle to center to save. Even if I didn't those moves are still there [or] I wiped them off. So, do you see the one saved variable by either one click or the numbing there of?

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neither of your moves are correct.

If you want to save the bin file to your PC, click "Save" or "Save As" in the WRT software and choose the location that you want to save it to on your computer.

If you want to write the bin file to the ECU, move the mode switch to the right flashing position (red led on) and click the "Write" button in the WRT software. The bin file will be written to the ECU.

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Thanks Justin. Technically in my way of thinking, it's A. So now it goes like this.

1. Make all my map changes and 'save.'
2. If I want to try this map, I toggle to the right and click 'write ECU' and follow the popups. Got it.

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Justin, what was I reading on your forum about turning the toggle to the left? We can save bin files on a micro disc? And the other wire harness is to read the maps in real time? So I have the laptop watching cell numbers change on the screen?

Are those harnesses ready for shipping? Thanks.

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Yes you got it. :)

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There is no micro sd card on the Mitsubishi USB Interface, the forum posts were probably refering to the Log Box for Suzuki denso ECU's

Yes the Kawasaki Type 3b on bike harness for the ZX14R is ready to go and available on our web site. We are doing a special limited time offer for the Kawasaki Type 3b harness for customers who have bought the bench flashing kit www.woolichracing.com/BuyNow.aspx?ProductId=129

* Last updated by: jkwool on 8/27/2013 @ 7:20 AM *

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Okay, sweet's moves are starting to sink in. Moving to center again, clears what I saved, [once I saved it] in the right toggle setting, meaning. So when I switch back to right, I have a clean pallet ready for another write.

What was I thinking!

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No, moving to center then back to right (flashing mode) resets the ECU so it is ready to accept another read/write operation. It does not clear what you have saved or change what has already been written to the ECU it just prepares the ECU for the next operation.

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Anyone mess with the ignition curves yet? Anyone see some bottom end tire crunching moves... Sans some pinking? The old style move is to advance till it pings, then back it off 2 degrees. How about those filter radio clicks? Anyone playing with those? You mean I have to try it first?

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