Received the EBC 4HH front brake pads I ordered today. The supplier's website listed them as being the correct sintered EBC pad for the ZX-14. I was a bit surprised to see that the EBC front pads are designed so that there are two half pads on each side of the rotor instead of one solid pad like the OEM.

Did I get the wrong pads?

here's a pic.

I sure hope you got the right ones since I have the same one waiting to go into mine.....

Mad

Just called the place I ordered from and am waiting for return phone call.

Checked their website and The part # on my pads is what comes up on their site for the ZX-14 sintered front pad. The pic on their site shows a solid pad rather than a two piece/side. I think these were designed for a dual piston caliper like what is on the zx10. The 14 DOES have 2 brake pad pins/side so I have hope they will fit. Will they want to spin without the extra support of a single backing plate? IDK?

I also put up a thread at bikeland.

Don't sweat too much. I remember reading about this issue a few years back. I think I recall someone saying wrong pad and another response saying they work the same.

I saw the double pad/side pictured on one other site I considered buying from and didn't think much of it. These pads were probably designed for track bikes with dual piston binders. I you want the race grade pad for the 14 you get the dual pad too. They didn't design a solid backing plate for our bike.

AT least I hope that is what they will tell me.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/6/2011 @ 11:08 AM *

EBC Sintered Metal Brake Pads for Your C14/ZX14

The fronts use EBC FA417/4HH, the rear EBC FA254HH.

Looks like you got the correct ones to me, Rook.

LOL JUST sent you a PM like 2 seconds ago. Thanks, Pal!

LOL JUST sent you a PM like 2 seconds ago. Thanks, Pal!

lol... I have Ferodo pads (recommended by BrakeTech for my rotors) and they are designed the same way.

Actually...so are the stock pads.

^^^one of Hub's finest^^^

My Vesrah's were four separate pads as well.

What did you pull off, Rook? Bet they were four separates, too.

Oh

So we do have 8 pads on the front brakes.

.......and we DO have dual piston calipers like the ZX-10.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/6/2011 @ 11:50 AM *

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/6/2011 @ 11:50 AM *

Thanks for pernting that out to me fellas. Guess we're ok Mad. Talked to Erin at Competion Accessories and he is unable to find where any other EBC pad is used. He is checking with EBC for me and will contact me later. (Very nice customer service at Competition Accessories--I ordered a TechMount steering stem mount for GopPro from these guys also.).

The problem with websites is that when a product is made in several dif configs, they often use the same pic even though the it is obviously not the same thing that is used for all applications.

we DO have dual piston calipers like the ZX-10.

My 10r has the brakes from my old zx14.

Now that that problem is solved, what about resurfacing the rotors? I hear it is best, when changing to a different brake pad, to sand the rotors. Best performance of new pads is achieved by eliminating as much embedded material from the old pads as possible. I enjoy messing around with this stuff and it gives me piece of mind. Has anyone else done the rotor sanding? What kind of sandpaper would I use. Any precautions? I'm sure you don't want to take them down too much and riskmaking the rotor surface uneven.

I know some guys do, but I have never worried about that, Rook... and brakes work fantastic on all of my bikes... well, not the 9r... but I'm working on that.

Thanks, Dogo. That 10 really looks good, BTW. Great performance and they hit the mark asthetically that year.

That 10 really looks good, BTW

Thanks... love the Raw Ti so much, I'm painting my 9r the same color.

Thinking about bar end mirrors for the 14>
any input?
VV

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=00C45730-D56B-84E2-103362A907B066ED

Hiya Rook!...good call on those ebc's.Really good pads.How's your rotors doing?Any judder from the front?If not....personally,I'd leave em be.I tried the sanding deal a couple of times on my stock rotors...as well as sanding the pads(oems).No go....didn't work on mine.Juddered as bad or worse than before.Only thing stopped mine totally was new rotors(ebc's) and HHsintered pads.Smooth as silk now for SEVERAL thousand miles.It doesn't take much "warpage" to feel it in the lever.Glazing will do it as well.But if it's glazed,it should clear with a light sanding.Lots of pros and cons concerning the sanding deal.Like anything else....everyone's different.Light sanding to me might mean "elbow grease" to someone else...if you DO sand...be VERY careful.Don't overdo the pressure.I wouldn't like sand in one spot...say...trying to "get that weird" color out of there.You know,something like that.Deep pits or "grooves" need to be just left alone....just the total surface...evenly.

Hard stops and heavy brake application I believe(at least with my old stock rotors)damaged the rotors with mine.I thought "trying some emergency stopping" would be a cool practice for me...I think I warped my rotors doing that.Heavy bike....good brakes....LOTS of force on a heating rotor.I would not recommend practicing emergency stops all the way to a "stopped motorcycle".Or grabbing the brakes at all while bedding in your pads.Just use em normal....light touch and regular stopping.

It's very difficult(IMO)to use a continuous equal pressure while sanding.That may be why it seems to work for some and not for others.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/6/2011 @ 2:56 PM *

It's very difficult(IMO)to use a continuous equal pressure while sanding.That may be why it seems to work for some and not for others.

Thanks for posting, Blue. Yeah, some sort of turn table might be best. Wish I would have hung onto that high-fi a couple more years. I knew it would be good for something again some day. (lol )

My brakes have always worked perfectly. No warp no wobble no judders. Only trouble was a bit of rust on the rotors where water sat between the pads. Not much of a problem. It is gone after a few applications of the brake. So i will just leave well enough alone for now. The rotors have worn a bit, I can feel it with my finger that they are thinner where the pads dragged. They still have a lot of life left in them however.

What about brake parts cleaner---since I have all the pieces removed from the calipers???? Wopuld you (or anyone) recoomend using that stuff on the calipers??? I'd like to since they are apart but I don't know about putting that stuff on any painted surface, not even painted brake parts.

What do you mean "I have all the parts removed from the calipers"?You aren't talking about pistons and seals are you?The pads and internal sides of the calipers can be sprayed with that brake cleaner...just yeah,watch the paint on the fender and stuff.It won't hurt the caliper coating...at least it didn't on mine.You can spray that area out (inside) with the pads in there if ya want...I did...seemed to clean it up enough?I wouldn't let the spray pool or sit on any surfaces.I used a rag and just wiped the drippings and stuff off as I went along.And off the wheel rims as well.Stick a rag behind the caliper to catch any over spray.Don't leave any on your tires either.

I think the calipers are like anodized or something...not just painted.Mine didn't orange peel or anything.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/7/2011 @ 2:04 AM *

You aren't talking about pistons and seals are you?

I think the calipers are like anodized or something...not just painted.Mine didn't orange peel or anything.

Brake parts cleaner--I'll cover the bike in plastic or spray on a rag and apply to brake parts. I think the stuff is pretty much mostly acetone. That's some noxious sh!t. I used it to remove a THICK clear coat I sprayed on my sprocket and that was 24 hours after applied. It came right off like it was never there. A bit dangerous when handling toxic substances, I hear. Lead or asbestos or what ever rides withcthe acetone right through your skin---so I have heard, anyway. Used to use acetone with art materials which there are plenty which are considered too toxic for ordinary home repair or commercial use.