Hub,

I overstepped the mark.
I apologise.
But I just didn't appreciate my brother being brought into what I saw as a bit of a go at my expense.
I probably misread but you are not an easy person to understand (for me anyway).
I have deleted my negative post.
Sorry again...

* Last updated by: yannih on 7/12/2014 @ 8:51 PM *

Go for a ride. No stress.

Sorry Yannih. I don't know a thing about your brother. If I knew that was a sour topic, I'd have never commented on that post. No offense intended there at all.

Now let's get this engine gone all cattywampus figured out! I don't know if you're going to fix it or replace it, Yannih but I'm awful curious to know what caused the engine to blow. The only definitive answer will come from a teardown.

Sounds like you may want to sell her. The sad reality there is that you will probably make out just as well selling the bike as is rather than with a new engine.

Rook, no offense taken.

At this stage my last preference is to sell the bike.
It has given me so much pleasure.
It's my pride and joy and I have spent so much time getting it to where it is.

Right now im steering towards rebuild.
My thoughts are a rebuild will virtually guarantee a solid engine moving forward where as who knows what you are going to get with purchasing a second hand one.
It just depends if I can get someone to do it at a reasonable price.

I will also be talking to my dealer on Monday for further clarification of what they found.
One cylinder damaged or all?

Any other specific questions I should ask?

And how's jmac's form rubbing it in?
"Go for a ride"...
I reckon not even Hub would have tried that one on!

* Last updated by: yannih on 7/12/2014 @ 11:07 PM *

I probably misread but you are not an easy person to understand (for me anyway).

I get that a lot so no need to apologize. My old lady does not understand me today and we are talking decade after decade, trying to get the both of you on the same page, let alone the rest of the members.

Here comes the parts list and I mean in the minimum we salvage it:

Head = That seat's 45° angle is not damaged, then dremel the dome and call it a day for the hot spots.
Guide = If that guide is broken, it's calling the ball on the guide and seat work or a new head.
Valve = This is where you do not start the engine anymore, but leak-down the other cylinders by turning the crank manually.
Machine work = That seat and valve damage needs a visual.
Gaskets = Minimum is a new head gasket.
Piston = If not broken just dinged up, this brings on the 'what if' and if you are worried down the road, then it's pull the case off, refinish the one barrel with a nikasil finish, new piston, clips, rings, and wrist pin.
Rod = This is to make sure the height is still there so you match the other piston height against the damaged side.
Rod inserts = This is if the rod forced too much load when the crank came around, crushed the parts in the chamber, mushroomed out the insert.

My old lady does not understand me today

when my zipper hits da floor she understands

1bad did you see this thread from a month back?

https://secure.zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=6ED2E075-1372-66AE-3BCAD36B972D61D6

I was hoping you might be able to contact slowninja for us. Sent you a PM.

when my zipper hits da floor she understands

HA! If she had her 3X magnifying glass handy, then maybe.

* Last updated by: hagrid on 7/13/2014 @ 12:59 PM *

Hagrid. You are cruzing for trouble!
So I guess you haven't changed a bit.

* Last updated by: Wolfman on 7/13/2014 @ 6:05 PM *

...positively no idea to what you refer...

This is for anyone in Sydney Australia.

STAY AWAY FROM SYDNEY CITY MOTORCYCLES KOGARAH.
These service guys are absolute amateurs.

I just got my bike transported back to me from Sydney City Motorcycles after they looked at the above engine issues. I initially sent it there as they have done all my servicing work. I have had careless issues from them before but thought they were just one of's and gave them the benefit of the doubt in the past.

I am now sending the bike to another recommended race mechanic for a second opinion. I said I would remove the fairing to make it easier for them and keep costs as low as possible for the second guy to get a decent diagnosis

The first thing I noticed when looking down past the instrument panel towards the top of the front fender was an electrical connection hanging loose that definitely wasnt there before. I figured it was either from lights or indicators. I switched on the ignition and checked the indicators. Sure enough the front right indicator was not working. I delved around in the area, found the matching connector and reconnected.
Next, I noticed that when I turned on the ignition to check the lights/indicators, I now have a FI Error message flashing on the dash that wasn't there before. So after checking the engine something has not been reconnected correctly.
Unbelievable.
I then started removing fairings.
Nobody has touched those fairings except for me and Sydney City Motorcycles. I am very fastidious with my things and especially my motorbike.
The first time I removed the fairing to do some very basic work on the bike I noticed that a couple of the plastic fairing bolt washers were missing so I purchased some more.
When removing the fairings this time I found the majority of these washers were missing. Also one bolt had two plastic washers on it. Not only that, the fairing bolts were different sizes and not correct or matching on either side of the bike. I know they were perfect from previous fairing removals i did. They have obviously misplaced fairing bolts and just used what they could find.

Any bike i own and i will never ever set foot in that place again as they obviously just don't care.

Plus I'm going through an average time trying to resolve the current engine issues and the last thing i need is to put up with this kind of negligence as well. Any decent workshop would known that and never have given the bike back to me in such poor condition.

But live and learn.
Never again.

Beware!

* Last updated by: yannih on 7/14/2014 @ 1:08 PM *

That sucks Yannih. With the F1 code, I had that once on my 07 when I tried to start it without the top front fairing on. If they had that one off, there's a connector in there for one of the sensors (bike down sensor I think). Maybe if they missed one connector already, there's a good chance they missed that one too. It's up the very top center on the front of the instrument cluster. Good luck mate.

It's up the very top center on the front of the instrument cluster. Good luck mate.

I hear a lot of gripes about dealership service. I'm sure you'll get reliable opinions and competant work from a reputable independent shop.

Well gentleman!

I am officially stuffed.

Just spoke with the 2nd different set of mechanics after I shipped it to them for a second opinion diagnosis on the bike.
These guys were recommended to me from other riding mates as they work on street and race bikes.
They advised they would go as deep as the could without a major tear down of the motor.

They advised:

The Cam Chain Tensioner was not the issue. It was as it should be and nothing had loosened, slipped or skipped to send out the timing.

The inlet and exhaust values in cylinder 1 were bent.

Turning the motor over by hand with no plugs in was far tighter than it should be.

They had never seen anything like this after I advised this has happened at idle and could not advise whether it was a possible valve train issue where valve(s)had dropped lower than they should or an issue in the bottom end had occurred where for some reason the piston has raised further normal.
They were without opinion on cause.
Again a complete engine tear down was the only option at a high cost.

I asked if in their opinion Kawasaki would consider good faith assistance. They advised Kawasaki would be dubious of the reported facts of how this happened and their response would probably be something along the lines of
"The damage is not something we have seen in the past that is consistent with an engine at idle so sorry..."

So...

I purchased the bike for $9,500.00 and added about $3,000.00 worth of accessories.
I am not interested in an engine rebuild at $5,000.00 - $6,000.000. Just not worth the money.
I can't do it myself as I don't have the know how, tools or confidence to do such a job.
I am not interested in a second hand engine as you just don't know for sure what you are going to get and I am now very gun shy.

My beautiful bike is dead.

RIP...

* Last updated by: yannih on 7/16/2014 @ 10:40 PM *

Sorry, bud.

I'd park it in a high crime area and wait for it to get stolen, then I'd call my insurance company...

The Cam Chain Tensioner was not the issue. It was as it should be and nothing had slipped or skipped to send out the timing.

The inlet and exhaust values in cylinder 1 were bent.

Turning the motor over by hand with no plugs in was far tighter than it should be.

They had never seen anything like this

... and could not advise whether it was a valve train issue where valve(s)had dropped lower than they should or an issue in the bottom end had occurred where the piston has raised further normal.

I can:

Sell the bike as is = 4-5K you are out 4-5K.
Ebay the bike as much as possible = 3K for the engine alone. I don't know the going prices, but 4,600 including ECU, harness, and the telemetry? Buyers like what's his name, the Jeep Mudude. Dwarf car spares. Those are your clients too don't forget.

* Last updated by: Hub on 7/17/2014 @ 6:42 AM *

LOL with a sign on it that says, "Steel Me. it's ok, really. Go ahead."

Cheap: I read a british article about auto shops and hidden cameras. 2 shops out of 10 passed. There are your odds.
Seats: You told me that 40 years ago when Cody took your balls to that foreigner chick key D did you round trip it.

Cheap: Yeah, and her dad's moped. I told him it was K-Putz and that was my best wee near half brow house inn her.
Seats: OK, so what next, fuck that turtle guy. No one listens to him he due some diagonal noze'ing from here.

Cheap: That bike is about 4 valves and a head gasket away from running again that turtle soupshit he's coming up wit.
Seats: I'd almost fly the guy out and he said his shell is filled with a kill box, some time waiting for parts or...

Cheap: Enough with the pipe dream. Dwarf car that thing, sit on it like an egg and let it rot one more year or?
Seats: I'd donate it to a museum and 50 years down the road??

Cheap: Fuk that. I rather listen to turtle.
Seats: No one listens to turtle. Fuk'inn riddling fuk'her.

Cheap: So what next?
Seats: Buy a set of metric tools for way less than 6k.

Cheap: You mean the ROOKey Move and just ask away, oh no 1bad and his one line ears?
Seats: Yes, you'll have to ear that too. Tool up with the best is one time. Sears or Snap is the seat you choose.

Cheap: I think I'll sell as is and wait for the highest and fairest bid I call a few dealers no matter what brand.
Seats: You are probably right. Call the independents too. Say you are hanging up to call the next shop/dealer and now your pool is...

Cheap: Sounds like a plan. Where did you get that idea?
Seats: Signed,

NOLTT

Tons of wrecked bikes out there. Engines are very durable, so a replacement would likely last for many years. That's what I would do. Replace it and ride that thing. You could do the engine swap yourself. It's just nuts and bolts.

I may have had a piece of luck.

I have located a 2009 engine with 13,000kms on it for a reasonable price.

I believe the 2009 engine should fit straight into my 2007 bike but is there anything I should look out for?

My understanding is the headers coming off the 2009 engine are a slightly larger diameter than the 2007 so i would need those included with the engine.

Is there anything else that anyone is aware of?

Thanks again.

* Last updated by: yannih on 7/17/2014 @ 10:34 PM *

Don't worry about the pipes fitting. Exhaust ports take the same header copper gasket so they fit. Pipe diameter is slightly larger. It still clears things.

Do not buy the engine unless you can get a leak down test or compression test. No throttle bodies right? And it's been sitting with how many vales open? So if has a starter motor, hook direct to the engine and starter with a battery. This should show compression if no leak available.

149 - 228 PSI or walk. So if the cylinders are not equal or off 10 or 5 pounds off of the other cylinder, oh well. The higher the compression the healthier the engine. With the leak, 1% says brand new. 6% is race tear down. 9-8% is street tear down.

Keep your current exhaust, that will be fine. Different fuel injectors, keep the 07 injectors matched to your ecu. Not sure about other stuff.

The used engine sounds like a good plan. You'll have the luxury of swapping-out any messed up parts from the salvage engine with nice clean ones from your old engine.

I'll be interested to hear what you find on the old engine once you tear it down.

I'll be interested to hear what you find on the old engine once you tear it down

+1