I thought it might be a good thing to have in case you got a flat out on the road and wanted to remove a wheel to bring in to the shop for repair. I'd hate to leave the bike up on that for any length of time with no rear wheel, though. rather rely on a plug and ride in to the shop.

Not the right thread, however I found an old flattened out oring, dipped it in wd40 and waited a few days thinking I made pull pork, but the rubber did not expand, nor did the tension break the oring. Inconclusive? Not really when dealing with rubber tests. Vinny expands, acetone warps: when my shot glass and I chemical up for a shadetree test.

If you have a helper you can lift the rear of the bike up on the sidestand and have your buddy spin and spray. It's kinda scary the first time, but you get used to it. The side stand isn't going to break.
Not how I usually do it, but I've done it on long rides away from home. "Bike Rallies."

Not the right thread, however I found an old flattened out oring, dipped it in wd40 and waited a few days thinking I made pull pork, but the rubber did not expand, nor did the tension break the oring. Inconclusive? Not really when dealing with rubber tests.

We started on chain wax and went to the PacJack so why not chain cleaner? I remember removing the link in my old chain and looking at the o-rings. They were flattened on the sides where they were pressed between the inner and outer plates. There was a bur of rubber that stuck out around the outside of the flat spot on each side. That bur of rubber is probably what detached and caused rubber whiskers to stick out on my chain after cleaning with WD-40. This same thing happened on my Vulcan 800 which had a chain drive cleaned with WD. If the thin burs split off from WD-40, I think that repeated use would eventually effect the whole o-ring. Let it soak a while and see what happens.

Naaa, like I said, I've played with enough chemicals and if something was going to happen it would take no more than 2 days. This was maybe a day or 2 longer. Here's the deal, I experimented on my nephew's chain and it rusted really bad. Wore out really fast but he sold the bike so just that little peek at wd doing that kind of damage, you can't convince me it's a lube. Convince me it's a penetrant, then we agree.

hmmm-- Rusted from WD? Interesting. Never saw rust on my chain but maybe it was rust around the oring that caused the burs to peel up and stick out??

Maybe lost the light, but the flash may pick it up? Shoot that last roller and see where it lands in the pocket? You could see that honda roller was not sitting under that pocket. My roller photo was where? So here is me with a torch and I press down on the WD nozzle and poof. I get my grease gun and now here comes the flame. Am I not waiting for the grease to light? And if I smeared the grease so it would match it not so condensed, but would it take it's time burning still?

So, where is the roller under the U? That means it saved the sheering of the pin. Convince me.

Mama kaw recommends kerosene for chain cleaning. Finally got around to picking up a jug from Home Depot and sure as shit it works really well for chain cleaning. Thank you mama kaw.

Plain ol diesel fuel works just as good.
It makes a mess, so be ready for that.

Convince me it's a penetrant, then we agree.

Active ingredient: Stoddard solvent... look at the label on the can.

It'll creep right past your X rings and break down the pin grease. Kerosene and fuel oil are too viscous to creep under the ring interface hence the teapot recommendation. Still has a time limit though. Give it long enough and the kerosene will creep past as well.

...and that's why you lube. The most important chain lube is enclosed in the rollers but if it doesn't last forever, it needs to be helped along with something.

I get where you're coming from, D. There are two different systems on an o-ring chain.

The first system is the pin-to-bushing interface. This is the joint protected by the o-ring. In a perfect world, the lube servicing the pin-to-bushing interface is never disturbed due to the o-ring preserving a sealed state.

The second system is the roller-to-bushing interface: no o-rings or other lube entrapment of any kind. This is where your Maxima, DuPont, gear oil, fill-in-the-blank has to pull up tough.

I'm testing a Zep product that is a heavy oil combined with a fine suspension of teflon. It also has a prodigious quantity of heptane. The net result: you spray the substance onto the surface to be treated. It's very runny at that point and is very accepting of capillary action. Soon, the heptane that was keeping the solution runny quickly evaporates. The resulting substance is a sticky grease that has crept into any adjacent crevice.

Unfortunately it is not fling resistant. My turn signal and rear wheel testify to such. But I have evidence that this spray grease surpasses the bar and chain oil I've been using.

that impossible to know for sure, lets put it this way...have you every heard of a person who oils his chain regularly and the chain has came apart

True indeed.

A well lubed chain wears the least and is the most forgiving upon it's sprockets. The resulting mess continues to be a topic.

this is just a question.....when you purchase a new motocycle have you every had any issue with oil coming off the chain....

My busa had something like a hard white coat of candle wax on it. I think the 14 was the same when new from the factory. My EK ZZZ had a gooey white grease on it that was kind of hard to remove. I just left it on and relubed after it flung off.

...or are you saying that oil is coming off the chain and you don't how the oil is getting on the chain? If so, I'd check the valve cover bolts. They come loose. I think mainly because of the rubber gaskets under the bolt heads get hard. Also, the cover gasket was revised. ...but you'd def be loosing oil fast if the leak was bad enough to get on the chain. Never heard of that.

A brand new chain is typically going to have a special coating for storage and transport so I wouldn't use that as a basis for discussion. Anything you do as part of the normal chain cleaning and maintenance cycle is going to bring forth the issues being discussed.

Oils are not made to NOT fly off a speeding bunch of turning links.As the chain temp goes up...they're gonna fling even more...UNTIL...there's very little left on there...not much to constantly lube those links.But if that's what a guy wants...sa'll good.The chain wax after sitting for an hour or a bit less after application will stay on those links. I know.I've checked it multiple times after using it before a ride.I could go out there right now and the chain(after being ridden now several rides(long ones)will still have a lot of the chain wax covering all parts of the chain...yet without any fling.EVEN through a car wash wanding;)It's very good stuff.The excess if there is any will collect around the front sprocket area...and drip off overnight as wax...not oil.So it really never builds up to any problematic point...excess melts off and that's it.No mess...Been using it now for several years.Only fling I got was when I applied it...and went and rode right after.THAT's a NO-NO with this stuff.

If you clean your chain with kerosine(as you should periodically)you MUST dry the kerosine off well before applying the Maxima.I use a hair dyer sometimes...or several clean dry rags and run the chain along it's path while squeezing with the rag.Works really well to dry the excess off.Apply the Maxima...and use the 'kerosined' rag to clean the outsides and upper and lower roller parts until clean of excess maxima.Your chain will Love you..;)

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 8/22/2014 @ 9:54 PM *

GRN14[quote][/quotIf you clean your chain with kerosine(as you should periodically)you MUST dry the kerosine off well before applying the Maxima.I use a hair dyer sometimes...or several clean dry rags and run the chain along it's path while squeezing with the rag.Works really well to dry the excess off.Apply the Maxima...and use the 'kerosined' rag to clean the outsides and upper and lower roller parts until clean of excess maxima.Your chain will Love you..;)e]

now if the chain has a rubber o-ring would not the kerosene hurt it

You'd think so but apparently not. That is the sustance the book recommends to be used to clean the chain. It seems a litle harsher than WD-40 but I've used it dozens of times and never seen any ill effects.

'now if the chain has a rubber o-ring would not the kerosene hurt it?'....no....what are the ingredients of Kerosine?

KEROSENE:
a light fuel oil obtained by distilling petroleum, used especially in jet engines and domestic heaters and lamps and as a cleaning solvent.
Its not manufactured by combining ingredients, its a petroleum product. Prolly somewhere between mineral spirits and mineral oil.

IDK if rubber is made from petroleum these days but some petroleum products can damage some kinds of rubber. All I know is kerosene seems to work on o-ring chains as good as anything and it doesn't cause damage and kerosene is what the book recommends. so THERE!

The manual continues...

"Immediately blow the chain dry with compressed air after cleaning.
Complete cleaning and drying the chain within 10 minutes"

Motorcyclist interview with PJ1 CEO....

"MC: What about cleaning the chain? Almost all the OEMs and chain manufacturers recommend cleaning the chain with kerosene.
PJH: First, some kerosenes can, I think, affect the O-ring itself. Secondly, kerosene can leave a film, and that makes it more difficult for the chain lubricant to attach itself to the chain's surface. Naphtha [used in some spray chain-cleaners] can also leave a film.
MC: So how's an owner supposed to clean their bike's chain?
PJH: Well, if there are some commercial products out there--and a lot of people use our Super Cleaner for that--that can remove the dirt but not leave a residue, that's the key to the whole cleaning process without damaging the O-rings or undermining its seal."

Regina chain website.....

"When the accumulation of dirt on the chain (sand, mud, asphalt particles or other foreign materials) is excessive, the chain must be washed with a brush and kerosene. After washing, the chain has to be dried immediately with a jet of compressed air."

So it seems there's a possibility of damage using kerosene if not completely removed, or if allowed to remain in contact for an extended period.

Squeezeout: You seen turtle around?
Layerlube: No, but if he gets a hold of this, he's going to squeeze someone's test...

Squeezeout: ... Tickles me to death he's probably sucking this in.
Layerlube: Well-l-l, [my best Ronny Reagan] he's going to tell those rim weepers a think or 2.

Squeezeout: I was just thinking, I'm the same old shit he squeezes in as a cleaning agent.
Layerlube: Oh man, don't let that shit out it just makes it worse.

Squeezeout: Oh shit here he comes.
Layerlube: Fuck! He's got the red carpet under his arm.

Squeezeout: Yeah, he's looking for trouble one more time 'banner' beware.
Layerlube: Are those tears on his glasseyes?

Squeezeout: Yep. He's been slapping his knee looking down for it first is that burst of tears.
Layerlube: He needs to clean those or he won't be able to see the message box.

Squeezeout: Look at that Red carpet fluff down on the floor no ripple flat ass a bored.
Layerlube: