From another site, not my words. Never heard of anyone defending ethanol like this. Interesed in a response
The mechanical problem with ethanol is not the moisture so much as it can destroy plastic/rubber parts in the fuel system. The phase separation can gum things up if the fuel sits unused for extended periods. Carb'd bikes are much more sensitive to this. Most FI bikes can handle it better. If your bike sits during the winter months simply add some stabilizer to the tank, top it off, and you'll be fine. If you have a plastic tank that has deformation issues or the bike will be stored for an extended period then just drain the fuel system.
Sorry but much of what you said is at best partially correct.
1. Ethanol does not destroy automotive plastic/rubber parts. If that were the case, it would have caused massive failures for the past 2 decades. It does cause certain seals and diaphragms in some small engines (lawn mower, weedwackers, etc.) to fail prematurely, but most automotive fuel components made since the advent of E10 are compatible with ethanol.
2. Some folks claim that ethanol - or its derivatives - are what caused the tank deformation in some motorcycle fuel tanks. This is far from a proven fact. Failures have been sporadic and carry no consistent pattern. Some bubble, some don't. I had an '08 RSVR Factory was just fine when I sold it last year. I fed it pump gas and didn't ride it very often, so it pretty much just sat in my garage with - horrors! - E10 in the tank.
3. Phase separation from ethanol absorbing moisture are not the cause of carbs getting gummed up. The main cause is gasoline itself going bad. Gasoline being a multi-fraction fuel, the lighter more-volatile fractions can evaporate off, leaving behind heavier more-viscous fraction that can block tiny passages and make small needles stick.
Older carbed bikes are more susceptible to this because they are more "vented" and exposed to atmosphere. Newer FI bike typically have vapor recovery systems that keep a fairly tight lid on the gasoline vapors, so less interaction with atm air. Still, some folks insist on ripping all that emission-control off so they can vent their tank and smell gasoline in their garage (why I have no idea). Then they wonder why their gas goes back so quickly. But AH HA!!! Frigging ethanol is to blame!!
4. Phase separation is much more an issue with gasoline fuel tanks that are large and in static storage for long periods, such as marine application. That's when you have 80 gallons of fuel, 10% of which - 8 gals - becomes a fairly significant quantity when it does phase-separate just sitting around at the dock surrounded by... you guessed it - moisture.
Most cars/trucks don't have much more than a 15-20 gal tank and are usually driven/refueled often and gets agitated enough that whatever small amount of phase separation does occur gets sucked through the engine and burnt anyway.
Vehicles stored over winter, however, definitely pose a potential problem. Either add stabilizer, or drain the tank are your best bet.