Better luck with this one. If not, there's ways around it.

Galfer Rotors and EBC pads arrived in the mail as well as longer titanium front caliper bolts to support the front strap-down kit that also arrived. I broke down and ordered some CoreMoto front brake lines. The lengths and bangos angles available on Amazon just gives me a headache trying to get the perfect length and angle. Also ordered a pre-smoked taillight. I ordered an OEM light but the ebay pictures were misleading and it's actually broken.... Bummer. No returns.

Dyno day #3 on the 12th.

Galfer Rotors and EBC pads arrived in the mail as well as longer titanium front caliper bolts to support the front strap-down kit that also arrived. I broke down and ordered some CoreMoto front brake lines. The lengths and bangos angles available on Amazon just gives me a headache trying to get the perfect length and angle. Also ordered a pre-smoked taillight. I ordered an OEM light but the ebay pictures were misleading and it's actually broken.... Bummer. No returns.

Dyno day #3 on the 12th.

Brakes and stuff are all on. Lowering straps and all the cool bells and whistles.

I raised the bike up to stock height in the front minus whatever the straps are set to. And the rear is now lowered ~1.5-2 inches versus the ~3.5 it was. it is much smoother of a bike with the suspension working correctly.

I had my rear speed sensor fail, or get unplugged partially, or something. My speedo is all over the place and my KTRC/Power mode meters are flashing + yellow KTRC light is on sometimes.

I am also facing a real issue with chain stretch. I took it to a local car meet I organize and just on the way there and back (total of 5 miles with about 10 solid rips on the bike) my chain loosened SIGNIFICANTLY. I actually had to turn down a ride with friends because my chain was scratching the powder coating off of my swingarm.

Any suggestions on chains is welcomed. I have a D.I.D 530ZVMX2B130 ZVM-X2 Chain

Maybe I'm setting it too tight or too loose. I try to shoot for OEM spec + 20% slack from the small stretch

* Last updated by: danmin on 8/8/2025 @ 10:30 PM *

I rerouted the rear speed sensor wiring and no issues since. I think raising the rear of the bike caused the connection to randomly connect and disconnect or something like that.

I added a LaunchMaster 2-Step Rev Limiter and it seemed to cause a misfire around 5-6k RPM and again at 8-9k RPM. I removed this and the misfire went away. I still get some kind of ignition cut 25% of the pulls I have made around town. I think it's the kickstand sensor. I think I'll hardwire that sensor for the dyno tuning to go smoothly, or maybe forever.

I took the bike out on the highways a few times and it's a missle. Don't know what power it's making. I do know that the AFRs under boost (According to my AEM AFR GAUGE) is about 9.0-10.0.... very very rich. I think it'll be much quicker when it's leaned out some.

Dyno day at 9am tomorrow. Getting ready for the 3.5 hour drive tonight. I think 3rd time will be the charm. Bike seems like it's running strong... besides that miss and the chain stretching

Final Dyno Figures:

316 horsepower
178 torque
At the wheel

Conditions: 95F, 65% Humidity

I am having trouble getting the last graph from the tuner. The bike started to cut-out from 7-8k RPM after it was warmed up. The tuner told me it was from the spark plugs. That he ran into the same problem on another turbo ZX14 and replacing the plugs was the solution. Weird but at least he knew what it was right away. The argument could be made that maybe the bike wasn't making the power it could've with the cutout happening right when boost would start to hit. I asked if maybe it was "blowout" where cylinder pressures spike from boost and blow out the spark. Tuner assured me that wasn't the case. Luckily the spark plugs used are on Amazon and can be delivered in a day or less for $40 a set. Moving my gap from 0.017" to 0.020". If condition is unresolved I'll look into closing the gap to 0.017" again just to see if it helps.

Here is a clean run on the bike. RPMs stop at 10k but I planned to run it out to maybe 10.5 or 11, so maybe a little more power there as well.

Not the figures I heard but I'll add another graph once I can get my hands on one.

OLD GRAPH:

Overall less power than I expected. But still a lot. I might turn up the boost or go a different route with ECUs soon. But 300+ at the wheel is plenty to play with for a while.

* Last updated by: danmin on 8/13/2025 @ 10:10 AM *

Also ran into an issue with my ECU. I bought the bike with an ECU that was damaged. The rear tire ate into it. I bought a used ECU that was undamaged to be flashed to replace my damaged ECU, just as precaution. The Woolich software asked for 48 hours to unlock the stock ECU. So I left my ECU with the tuner along with the bench flashing harness and he said once he gets it unlocked he'll mail me the tuned ECU. He recorded or logged the AFRs at cruising and part throttle. At part throttle the tuner and I saw close to 20:1 AFR. Pretty dang lean.

In a week or two I'll report back as I hope to receive the ECU around then.

In the meantime- changing plugs, triple-checking wire routings and hose routings plus adding zip ties to secure, checking the velocity stack screws once more, checking all my engine bolts with a torque wrench again, change oil filter, installing low profile fuel pressure gauge or block-off, deleting the kickstand sensor, adding all my fairings

Were you anticipating closer to 400 hp? That's something to shoot for one day but for now, you increased hp by more than 50%! That's pretty awesome. For 400 hp, I imagine you'd need a bigger turbo.

BTW, did you get my latest response to our PM we had going? If not, I can resend it.

Turbo sizing should be good into the 500s. To make 600 is when you're supposed to size-up. I was hoping for closer to 350 just because that's what my math told me I was going to get. But I think I would need 5-6 more pounds of boost to get there. Maybe something I'll mess with in a few months. Someone keeps telling me to turn it up to 20 pounds and get a boost controller to make the bike slowly build boost rather than build 80% of the boost at 7k RPM. Seems like a lot to try and handle. maybe in a few months I will.

Let me check my PMs. I might've missed the email notification

I'm sure you'll have a better idea of how much risk you want to take if you learn about what you have currently. You don't want to blow bike the up. Enjoy what you have before pushing the envelope.

I agree. I think I'll leave it just as it is for a couple months and a few thousand miles. I don't want to be a victim of 'Boost Greed'

Fairings installed. Just waiting on the ECU tuning to wrap up. Taking it to a local car meet tonight

The bike looks incredibly cool Dan! I'd run it without the lowers a while to show off that badass turbo.

When I get mine, I think I'll eventually convert to a longer filter and separate exits for exhaust and waste gate. It's not going to be much of a cornering machine after turbo.

I think I'll run it without the lowers. I was going to install them but frankly I'm too lazy to cut the necessary holes for the exhaust and filter. Plus it's nice to see the whole turbo sticking out.

Here's a little clip a friend recorded of it from tonight's car meet.

Youtube

The double exhaust was something I always thought was cool. I bet Richard would make you one for your kit if you asked... I think that's what they do on the Hayabusa kits

* Last updated by: danmin on 8/16/2025 @ 9:22 PM *

I love that raw sound! The sound is truly menacing! At some point, put a 2 step on that bike.

I think this was the race you were talking about, Dan. I found a few where Art's GTR is defeated by a turbo 14. I'll give him this, that car is usually creeping up on the 14 around 200 mph. From the comments on the video, Art was running his most aggressive map where the bike was running moderately aggressive mapping. It's not just a test of speed, it's a test of how hard they are willing to push the vehicle. You don't carry ten maps without a couple being extremely aggressive.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/5tjE8TO2bRE

It's a fun channel offering prizes and contests for subscribers. I think the money involved in the races is a bunch of hoopla to attract views. I don't know how Art gets away with it. At least some if not all of the races are happening in the US. I recently heard of a youtuber who was busted for featuring illegal street riding even though his face was never shown in the video. That was his legal strategy but it didn't work.

Funny, the GTR came out in 2009 right after I got my first ZX-14. I saw one in Milwaukee. I even chased the owner down to meet him at a gas station. No race but I know we both had that in mind. The car had a very cool sound to it as the lower turbo spooled up. It sounded like a trombone reaching a high note. The price in 2009 was about $75k. That was a car for someone with a very good paying job in 2009 (still is in my book). Now you pay over 200k for the best GTR. No thanks, bikes are cooler and all I really care about is how quick I can go from 0-200. Over two-hundred, the cars are just better configured for aeros. Low and flat just seems to have a big advantage. For me, over 200 is a race against myself and a test of the bike. If anything can pass me at that speed, that's not a real concern.

* Last updated by: Rook on 8/17/2025 @ 10:52 PM *

I'll probably never get into building cars for speed or maybe even show again. I have a couple classics sitting in a field. Bikes are just too much fun. And much more affordable to buy new, used, or to upgrade. I would like to get my old pickup fixed up and painted to tow the bike around... Just need to find the time and space.

Having the tune cleaned up some more. Bike will be out of commission for a few weeks. Gives me time to plan my move. Got word that if I want the bike to make more than what it's making I need to commit to race gas or ethanol. Bummer. I can always ignore my tuner's advice, but something tells me he knows what he's talking about. Only way up is Maxx. I think it's going to be plenty of bike for me to enjoy for at least a number of months... Maybe even forever.

I'll update when i've got an update.

You might want to ask your tuner if using an octane booster is an option? I've been using Boostane Professional bumping pump 93 to 101 with great results. I was turned on to it by Rick Romans who was deeply involved in the development with Richard Peppler of the turbo systems. It only takes 2.56 oz. to boost 2 gallons so could easily be carried in small bottles in a tank bag or back pack. Rook is also very familiar with Rick Romans expertise!

Yep. I suspect Romans and Richard still talk because Romans checked in on the forum for a hello right after I mentioned him to Richard in my first emails. You're learning all the things Romans did, Dan. It could be false memories but I almost swear Romans mentioned having some difficulty installing the silicone intake tubes like you did. I remember seeing a photo of those aftermarket tubes on a thread here.

If you're taking a brake for a while Dan, pop in to say hi every now and then. I definitely want to keep in contact because I'm sure I'll have questions when I go through this process.

Will do! I plan on checking on every now and then. Probably won't be long for an update. I always check the turbo section though it isn't as popular as other sections.

I explored octane boosters and I explored committing to full e85. Neither were as convenient as pump 93. Every station around me has E. But quality of E is a big concern. 300 +/- on the street should be plenty of fun no matter what. It does feel like a waste to have the turbo kit I have and the engine built to the level it is, all for 300hp. I could've just ran low comp pistons + valve springs + studs... I'll consider it a break-in period. I can always take it back to the tuner and tell him I am running octane boosters or E and get a remap, or get a map switch or something along those lines. I'm still leaning towards Maxx, but I think I need to learn how to enjoy the things I have instead of chasing perfection ;)