Thanks Mokaw,
I'll stick with the 16 43 option.

I probably will too but I'd have to try to fit the 45T just to see for myself that it doesn't fit. There isn't a lot of space between the inner front of the swing arm and the tire even at stock WB. If the WB was shortened too much, I could see the tire rubbing at high speed. If the tire can actually expand under centrifugal force, it would get even closer to the swing arm.

'Swingarm clearance, stock chain, 45t'
Good point, and great heads up on centrifugal-force.
If the clearance was something like 1/8'' / 1mm + -
that might not be enough, 1/4'' 2.5 mm probably
still marginal. Tire manufacturers undoubtedly
have the expansion figures for a given speed for
their tires, getting those figures might be another
story.
--
You mentioned that you like the look of the 45T
I'll have to search images
for that set up, but right off I imagine they
would look great.
--
As far as getting the absolute best 1/4 mile times, I'm
thinking that I'm probably not going to need to
worry too much on that issue.
This machine impresses me so much, I'm starting
to get the impression, I'm more interested
in the in between ground where I'm riding well
at 'speed' yet being somewhat 'kind' to the
bike at the same time.
---
I was working again yesterday on getting through
the gears quickly, I find that 1st to second is
only butter smooth and predictable if I shift
into 2nd at 16 to 17 hundred + - rpm, which is a very
lazy shift, but smooth when done without clutch,
in fact much smoother than using the clutch.
Shifting to 2nd using clutch at 3 to 5 k is
very clunky, almost disturbing the way if feels.
I started out in 2nd a couple of times, and
the gear is obviously to big to be doing that
all the time, but it was very satisfactory to
be starting from a stop, and having no clanks
going through 2n to 6th gear.
There is something about 1st to 2nd that I don't
think is ever going to go away, I feel like it's
just part of the design, but again, a clutchless
shift above 1500rpm and below 2000 rpm is nice,
just not a good way to get decent 0-60 times
on the highway. So there is no compromise
that satisfies the equation that I can find,
if I don't take her up to 30 or so miles per
hour in 1st at least, then I'm not getting the
best out of that gear, wasting too much time,
and that clank ruins the experience for me.
--
Quick shifters; New topic coming up.
Center Stands; Another new topic....

* Last updated by: Stratovarious on 11/14/2025 @ 4:15 AM *

Swingarm clearance, stock chain, 45t'
Good point, and great heads up on centrifugal-force.
If the clearance was something like 1/8'' / 1mm + -
that might not be enough, 1/4'' 2.5 mm probably
still marginal.

It's fuzzy but here's what comes to me: A member called DogoZX-14 was doing his sprocket gearing mods on his Gen1 at the same time I was. He was going for the shortest wheelbase possible and the lightest chain plus shorter gearing. He went with a 45T rear and IDK what he did with the engine sprocket, probably went down to 16T. I can't remember the length of chain he used but it was shorter than the 120 pins I used which put me at stock WB. I definitely remember him trying to stretch the chain on purpose so he could adjust the axle back as much as possible. I believe he said his rear wheel was rubbing the front inside of the swing arm. The thread's on here somewhere.

You mentioned that you like the look of the 45T
I'll have to search images
for that set up, but right off I imagine they
would look great.

Even a 46T or maybe a 47 would look even cooler! It adds rotating mass unfortunately and reduces top speed. A 43T probably doesn't look too much different than a 45. I tried to post a pic from my collection but it wouldn't work. The 16/43 approach is probably all around best in terms of weight reduction while increasing acceleration. It also seems to be the only one we can use on the 14R.

I was working again yesterday on getting through
the gears quickly, I find that 1st to second is
only butter smooth and predictable if I shift
into 2nd at 16 to 17 hundred + - rpm, which is a very
lazy shift, but smooth when done without clutch,
in fact much smoother than using the clutch.
Shifting to 2nd using clutch at 3 to 5 k is
very clunky, almost disturbing the way if feels.

I haven't thrashed the 14R yet but on my Gen1, I concur with your description of hard shifts from 1st to 3rd. First to second is a little clunky, as is shifting between N and 1st. I even remember an unpleasant notchy feeling hitting 3rd gear from 2nd when shifting fast. This is another way the Gen2 Hayabusa was superior to my Gen1 ZX-14. The busa's shifting was flawless. If the oil change was overdue, it would stop in N when shifting from 1st to 2nd but the 14 does that too, if the oil needs changing.

There is something about 1st to 2nd that I don't
think is ever going to go away,

It wouldn't be worth disabling the positive Neutral finder right away. That might be what's causing this sensation you and I are both feeling. I've shifted my Gen2 fast but not like lightening fast and not at really high rpm. So far, it's very smooth but yep, I feel the tug as I click from 1 to 2 for sure. I haven't felt that millisecond harsh engagement into 3rd gear yet.

Quick shifters; New topic coming up.
Center Stands; Another new topic....

I can tell you lots about quickshifters, particularly the HM Plus.

Excellent!
I think I'll start a thread; ''Quick Shifters 2025''
it seems that most of those threads are
from almost 10 years ago, I'll bet a lot has changed.
I need to find out all I can on them, I've been
reluctant to go that route and if it doesn't fix
1st to 2nd, or a sprocket-changes doesn't make things
work out for the better too, I'll just pass, and
stick with where I'm at.
--
I spent a good amount of time again this am,
(just got back and will go out again in a couple hrs)
trying to nail down excellent shift points for
clutchless shifts, getting into 4 5 and 6 are
just about a no-brainer, can run up 5k to 6k +
getting smooth shifts and can get good 'lazy' shifts
if I kick' the lever quickly without too much
engine load.
I'll keep working on it till I feel like I've got
it the best I possibly can, 2, and 3r are the ones
for me to really work on. I'm not doing any downshifts
without the clutch, just rev matching, and that
is getting better.
OH, I have 1500miles on the oil, conventional KAWI oil,
I noticed today and yesterday that the bike did NOT want
to let me get out of 4th gear, like several times,
then one time I noticed that when in 6th, locked in,
I was able to push the lever about 2 inches, I thought
wow, that is a cool feature, so you know for sure
your in 6th, not 5th as the shift display visual
quality during the day is extremely unreliable.
THEN, though, It never did that extra travel again.
:shrugs: