I recently bought a Brock's CT Meg for my 14 and probably will buy the exact same pipe for my new busa because I know of no other pipe that matches it. What really turns my crank is "loud" and manufacturers we have access to in the US won't go all out

Is that the one that's about $2500?
Is it super loud?
Delkevic's single can full exhaust is about $500.00
is it that much less of a quality pipe?
---
So the CT megaphone is super loud, or?
In my case, I need or like to keep a little
bit of a low profile, I love loud
but not super loud mostly for that reason,
my new slipons (delkevic) are just loud
enough to the point I can hear rpms
when shifting which is great, I'd like
them to be a little louder than they are
but not a lot louder.
The OEM pipes were definitely NOT loud
enough.

Another issue I've become even more aware of is that
in corners when needing to smoothly modulate throttle
up or down there is a disturbing response time lag, its'
kind of comical cause this is throttle by cable, not
even wire, but on the other hand, the poor response
time imv equates to;

I haven't noticed this on my 2024. Also, no problems on my 2008 except the extremely low throttle/low rpm throttle response I mentioned earlier. Other than that, if I open the throttle it goes immediately and if I close the throttle, it slows down. There is no delay from throttle grip to engine. One thing I'm sure there is is ECU intervention between actual throttle position at the grip and throttle openings in the throttle bodies. As you know, we have the throttle valves that are mechanically controlled by the throttle grip and there's another set of throttle valves on top of those that are controlled by an ECU map. You open 80% at 4000 rpm, the mechanical valves open 80%. The electronic valves might be programmed to open only 65%. Further, the ECU provides fueling for the throttle opening it's allowing you to have. The first two years of 14s were very restricted below 6000 rpm. Owners simply took the secondary throttle plates off and problem solved for the most part. Then in 08 they derestricted the secondaries quite a bit. I took my secondary plates out of my 08 anyway thinking it might unleash a bit of low end power. As far as I can tell, that made no improvement without also adjusting the fueling which I did many years later. The power was more linear but it's not like I felt a lot of extra power below 3000 rpm, the bike's just getting moving then anyway. I'm not sure what the secondary flies are doing in my 2024 but I don't feel any delay or any lack of power. I will say this, the bike goes apeshit at 6000 rpm which tells me, there's probably some low end power that is being restricted. My friend who also owns a 2024 said the same thing before I ever mentioned it. Two people noticing the same thing without any suggestion from the other, that seems pretty conclusive to me.

---

A flash is the best bet for set it and forget it but I don't think I'd go the old Dynojet way of the past if I were seriously into tuning and I'm not so sure I'd even bother with Woolich at this time. MaxxECU is fully developed now and it will be the future until something better comes along.

I'm pretty set on having Ivan do the flash,
mostly due to his transparency in listing EVERYTHING
that is going to be addressed in the flash, and
this is not a dyno , just a program I guess for
our 14's.
Other 'flashers' list a couple of items but that
is fail for my 'wants' I want to know everything
that they will be addressing, granted, some of
it isn't really necessary for what I'm looking
for but the transparency and 'detail' is there.
---
The dyno thing from what I read and hear can be
a hit n' miss deal, with some of the shops
doing some cleaver but dishonest tricks in
getting 'good' chart readings.

I was watching a Moore Mafia video of tuning the 2025 Hayabusa recently. He showed the ECU map for electronic throttle valves (equivalent to secondary valves on the 14) and the 2025 Hayabusa wouldn't allow 100% throttle until almost redline! ....it was no higher than 80% up to 10,500 rpm and less than that lower in the revs! It's extremely restricted from the factory. Still a great bike but huge restrictions that need to be reversed. No wonder it's slower than the 14R. The 2026 busa I'm buying has moved to Euro 5+ standards. I'm glad Chris Moore has bought one and will tune it because I want all the power available when I want to use it.

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I'm glad Chris Moore has bought one and will tune it because I want all the power available when I want to use it.

Hell yeah.
And this reminds me of the recommended shift points
that I posted the other day for our 14's some of these
games they play to please the EU are just plain silly.

I didn't post the downshift points, but they are something
along the lines of shifting down to 5th at 19mph lol,
if memory serves.

Chris is one of those guys with tons of 'street' credibility
isn't he and so is Brock, Brock puts out
excellent and 'honest' videos for his products
as well as his excellent tutorials.

Do you have Busa photos here? Beautiful bike for '25.

I'm pretty set on having Ivan do the flash,
mostly due to his transparency in listing EVERYTHING
that is going to be addressed in the flash, and
this is not a dyno , just a program I guess for
our 14's.

Ivan is a pioneer of the 14. He's an excellent choice and has a longstanding reputation for integrity.

Yes, the flash will be an assortment of modified ECU maps based on the dyno tuning of another Gen2 ZX-14. From what I hear, there is very little to be gained from a custom tune over a map made off another bike of the same model with basically the same mods. The maps I used on my Gen2 busa and Gen1 ZX-14 all were fine. The last map I tried on my old 14 was a little better. The self tuning I did on the road with Autotune got it perfect. I only could notice the improvements of Autotune at low rpm. I don't operate bikes at high rpm often enough or long enough to tell much difference.

I'm pretty set on having Ivan do the flash,
mostly due to his transparency in listing EVERYTHING
that is going to be addressed in the flash, and
this is not a dyno , just a program I guess for
our 14's.

Probably. LOL like I said, I can't feel the difference between 197 hp and 205. If a dyno graph shows 205, I'd probably take that one.

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Probably. LOL like I said, I can't feel the difference between 197 hp and 205. If a dyno graph shows 205, I'd probably take that one.

I was on L power for the first mo with this bike,
frankly , when I switched to F power, I can't say
whether I noticed a difference or not,
maybe that's like you say, you're not in the 10k
rpm range often, well I'm not either, I don't
think I've hit 10k , maybe 8 or 9k so far.
What I enjoy most is low end get up n go torque,
the g forces, that's waht also attracts me to
corners and sweeps, the G forces, or the
shift in g forces to different axis's.

LOL I have the photo but they won't load for some reason. I've had the problem for the last several months. My busa is a 2008 black and orange.

https://blog.brocksperformance.com/suzuki-hayabusa-2008-world-press-introduction/

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https://blog.brocksperformance.com/suzuki-hayabusa-2008-world-press-introduction/

Great looking bike.....

Thanks. I always thought it was the best looking of the Gen2s. The Gen3 had a beautiful black and orange too. I would have been tempted to buy that one if I didn't already have the B/O Gen2. I think the 2026 SE is strong competition in the looks dept.

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/28/2025 @ 6:48 PM *

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I would have been tempted to buy that one if I didn't already have the B/O Gen2.

B/O B as in Busa right? What does the O stand for?

B/O B as in Busa right? What does the O stand for?

B/O is my fast way of saying "black and orange." I have the B/O 2008 Gen2 Hayabusa. The 2023 Gen3 Hayabusa was also black and orange and it was another knockout.

---

I did see a black/orange , I think it was a '14
and wow, very stunning.
I also found some Red/white combos that look
killer, and the japanese Busa writing looks
so good on it. I assume it says Hayabusa or
something to that effect.

the japanese Busa writing looks
so good on it. I assume it says Hayabusa or
something to that effect.

LOL I can't say I know for certain what the kanji means. It's a good bet it means Hayabusa which is Japanese for peregrine falcon, the fastest animal alive. Its favorite meal is blackbird and the Honda Blackbird was the one to beat at the time. The Hayabusa not only beat it, it utterly destroyed it. I don't think modern motorcycle manufacturers can make those kinds of strides anymore. Maybe we should be glad so we can be happy with one bike for ten or fifteen years. It got ridiculous with liter bikes in the 2000s, one outdoing the other and turning around and outdoing itself two years later. Today, we have a couple stepping outside the boundaries but if you value your money, a ten year old bike isn't much worse. The problem is, ten year old bikes are selling for enough that you might as well get a new one.

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/2/2025 @ 4:41 PM *

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Its favorite meal is blackbird and the Honda Blackbird was the one to beat at the time.

It's main diet.
Good one!

I don't think modern motorcycle manufacturers can make those kinds of strides anymore. Maybe we should be glad so we can be happy with one bike for ten or fifteen years. It got ridiculous with liter bikes in the 2000s, one outdoing the other and turning around and outdoing itself two years later. Today, we have a couple stepping outside the boundaries but if you value your money, a ten year old bike isn't much worse.

Yep, good point, the new frontier imv is essentially tech, 6 axis gyro stuff,
that everyone has available now, cornering control, launch control, and
I'm not sure if launch control is part of the lowering of the the shocks
at starting 'gate' or not, but that was actually available around
2018 I believe.
So, that is basically the current and will be the new frontier, not much
they can do with power, cause humans can't eve handle much more I don't think,
of course I'm sure they were saying that in 1940 too. :smi

Today, we have a couple stepping outside the boundaries but if you value your money, a ten year old bike isn't much worse. The problem is, ten year old bikes are selling for enough that you might as well get a new one.

Agreed, when I bought this, I felt that way, what's the
difference if I get this bike or wait till I can afford
a new one, same damn bike in almost every practical way.
I budget is not even an issue at all, then yeah, a new bike
like my new friend's new Ducati , sure why not, nice and
shiny and we get to dirty the oil ourselves.
As far as old bikes getting great prices, so true, with
bikes like R1's and GIXR'S , but luckily there are some
models that don't quite tic all the boxes for some of
the hooligans, and we can get lucky on a low or fair price from
time to time.
I lucked out on this bike, it had 3800 miles on it and
the price was sweet, not crazy sweet but very reasonable
considering the excellent condition, save for minor
cosmetics that I'm not that worried about, considering
I always seem to get scratches and dents on my stuff
regardless.

I'm not sure if launch control is part of the lowering of the the shocks
at starting 'gate' or not, but that was actually available around
2018 I believe.

Launch control is a rev limiter set at the ideal rpm for a racing launch. The lowering of the shocks sounds like an adjustable air shock with onboard air compressor. I've never heard of that used on the front suspension. People strap the front to lower and if you want to raise it, you have adjust the strap. There might be other ways of adjusting the height of the front but I've never heard of any you could do on the fly.

---

I lucked out on this bike, it had 3800 miles on it and
the price was sweet

3800 miles is like new. If you can save 20% over buying a new bike, that's worth it to some people. There's always 'buyer beware" in a private sale though. I'd need a bargain on a used bike. Hate to put it this way but buying a used bike to me is like marrying a used wife. I might find a great one, but it's still inherently risky and usually a lot less desirable than new. I'm not going out on a limb.

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Launch control is a rev limiter set at the ideal rpm for a racing launch. The lowering of the shocks sounds like an adjustable air shock with onboard air compressor. I've never heard of that used on the front suspension. People strap the front to lower and if you want to raise it, you have adjust the strap. There might be other ways of adjusting the height of the front but I've never heard of any you could do on the fly.

Exactly , it was air or hydraulic, the front and rear lowered and raised in
a clip that I watched that point this out.
And yeah again on the front, I'm only aware of that with
dirt bikes, they'd mechanically lockdown the forks, and then
after launch, the locking device would release.

* Last updated by: Stratovarious on 12/3/2025 @ 4:27 PM *

3800 miles is like new. If you can save 20% over buying a new bike, that's worth it to some people. There's always 'buyer beware" in a private sale though. I'd need a bargain on a used bike. Hate to put it this way but buying a used bike to me is like marrying a used wife. I might find a great one, but it's still inherently risky and usually a lot less desirable than new. I'm not going out on a limb.

Yeah, not a lot of upside in trading in the wife for a used one.
Most of my bikes have been used, I've gotten lucky but could
surely have gotten stung.

Today, I took off in 2nd a couple of times,
got to 60 and shifted up to 6th before letting
the clutch out.
I know this is half nuts and can't be done, but
it would be so awesome if there was a sequential
gearbox that could be switched on the fly to
where we could skip gears. Remember how I was
saying I like to down shift from 6th to 4th often
without letting the clutch out for 5th,
just bypassing it,
well I'm realizing that getting to 60 wastes
a lot of time going; 1 2 3 4 5 6 when you don't
or can't be going faster and but want to get
there quickly and then just cruise in 6th.
I think my rpms were at about 6k when I
was at 60 + - in 2nd, then advanced to 6th.
I often click through the gears at a lazy pace,
but just was wondering today how that would
go, and I liked it.
----
I don't know what they do at the drags but
I think I'd want a transmission that had maybe
3 gears max, not any in between or a way to
lock some of them out / bypass them.

* Last updated by: Stratovarious on 12/3/2025 @ 4:48 PM *

Yeah, not a lot of upside in trading in the wife for a used one.
Most of my bikes have been used, I've gotten lucky but could
surely have gotten stung.

You can fix a broken bike.

I don't know what they do at the drags but
I think I'd want a transmission that had maybe
3 gears max, not any in between or a way to
lock some of them out / bypass them.

A three speed was considered fast for certain car engines in the 70s. It must have worked with the technology of the time or they wouldn't have done it. I'll take whatever is fastest and for bikes, that's a close ratio six speed. Even modern cars have millions of gears transmissions. I don't think it can be argued, staying as close to optimum rpm is fastest as long as the shifts don't take much time. Bikes shift like lightening.

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I had my ECU flashed by Schnitz Racing only because I hoped it would smooth out the throttle's on/off jerkiness. If it did, it's so subtle I can't really tell. I also had them remove the top speed limited while they were at it, even though I've never gotten near top speed and most likely never will. Oh I think the flash also made the bike stay in the same mode as when I turn the bike off, rather than resetting to the default every time ... at least I think that's right ... been a long time since I had it done.

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I had my ECU flashed by Schnitz Racing only because I hoped it would smooth out the throttle's on/off jerkiness. If it did, it's so subtle I can't really tell

Yeah, the on off throttle jerk and time lag or latency is
annoying to say the least, imv it borders on dangerous
in some situations, where you need it now, on or off,
particularly coming in, being in and exiting corners.
smoothly, predictably like a traditional motorcycle.
These bikes aren't even throttle by wire, so there
should be zero latency, and zero on/off slop.
My '09 Harely was even throttle by wire and it was
flawlessly smooth.
My 2013 ZX14R, even has a throttle dive or cut feature
built in to the ECU, this is even more annoying
for me than the on/off issue.
If I pull in the clutch when holding a steady throttle,
in 1/2 the scenarios (gear, speed, acc, decelerating)
pulling in the clutch has the idle dive instead of
climb, that is incredibly annoying.
I'm going to have mine flashed buy someone that actually
owns or owned this bike and isn't a cut n paste flasher,
and that's no reflection on the flasher that you used,
I'm not familiar with his work.

I don't think it can be argued, staying as close to optimum rpm is fastest as long as the shifts don't take much time. Bikes shift like lightening.

Yeah, I wouldn't mind having 7 gears for traffic,
I was referring to 0-60,if I had the fastest
quickshifter available and was expert-level with it
given a 0-60 scenario;
1) 2nd gear straight to 60
2) 2nd gear, 3rd gear, 4th gear, and or 5th gear to 60

The power curve for my bike is pretty linear up through
the point I'm hitting 60 in 2nd, my contention is
that I'm going to hit 60 significantly quicker
with option 1, as opposed to a few ms pauses and
power drops by spending time in 3, 4 and maybe 5th gear.

All of the above is not about riding in traffic,
rather, for those times when I need to or want
to put distance from where I'm at in 2nd to the
speed I'd like to be at in the quickest possible
time frame, I believe that goal is best met
by hammering 2nd straight through to 60mph,
at which point I might shift into 6th, and
or wish there was the 'impossible'/ unavailable
option of shifting like the traditional
manual shift of a car, straight into 6th,
from 2nd bypassing the in between gears.
----
I'm just now looking up funny Cars and Dragsters,
and without studying each 'return' , the consensus
seems to be;
Funny Cars generally used 2-3 gears,
and Dragsters generally used 2 gears, effectively
actually 1 gear, the 1st gear being used,
to get up to the starting line.