Both of mine used to rattle on startup when it was new. It went away.

So I'm not going crazy.

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No Hub,yer not going crazy....you can't go crazy TWICE in one lifetime .

Thankls everyone.Blue your way seems to be better explained.One thing i was not sure is how long needs to be pushed in to install cct and not damage engine and another thing how much to turn rod.Now i know.Thanks again.

Yer welcome."just till the noise stops"...you'll be good to go.You needn't worry about TDC or positions of any cam lobes...I don't know WHERE that came from.She WON'T jump a cam tooth by running momentarily "non-adjusted".Remember,when she first starts up and you've got yer chain noise....the tensioner(factory) IS NOT applying pressure to the shoe,so if it was gonna jump a tooth,it would have by now.Don't worry.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/24/2010 @ 2:18 AM *

I wouldn't bother change the tensioner out mine has 24K miles and it rattles on startup then goes out. I don't really notice it anymore. I wouldn't want to be bothered with worrying about adjustments to a manual adjuster. Its obvious it is a matter of oil getting to it to apply pressure to the tensioner so think of it as an oil pressure gauge of sorts. If the noise quits then the engine has pressure and is good. Also with all the residual oil on parts I don't think anything can be hurt in a couple of seconds just don't rev the engine at startup, not wise anyway.

.Remember,when she first starts up and you've got yer chain noise....the tensioner(factory) IS NOT applying pressure to the shoe,so if it was gonna jump a tooth,it would have by now.Don't worry.

There is a ratchet that steps out for chain stretch and slipper wear. It only kicks back as far as that step moves or less. It's not much.

Page 5-15: 'Do not move crank with tensioner out. This could jump over a toof and now you are fooked!' < Paraphrased.

No Hub,yer not going crazy....you can't go crazy TWICE...

So TRUE!

You needn't worry about TDC or positions of any cam lobes...I don't know WHERE that came from.

wower, This is where we have a cam tensioner with a locking step. You hear the pressure push that tiny rattle.
If we go to our rear wheel drive chain, see how loose we are on the bottom? Well, we are at load on the upper rung when riding, right?

Now, imagine someone tells you to place the crank any old place, not really load the chain rung with one hand. That is your static check. The race tensioner body plungement can now push into what is full taught one one side. No chance for error, you have both a loose tensioner out of the hole to begin with on the removal, and the chain is held taught. There is a gap you have no clue how loose that chain is on the reverse push back you work like blue. That is where an engine may stop, push the slipper back into the tensioner that has no oil pressure.

As you remove the stock tensioner, lets say the chain is getting loose, as the valve spring is pushing the cam backwards, not up and past the ramp, so the taught chain has tension as if it were running. The warning note variable on page 5-15 does not state that a cam can push in the reverse> is more slack you think you are up against a tiny slack? Ask yourself if a chain can move in reverse, you happen to remove the OEM tensioner.

Did the cam move back, give more slack, you without removing a crank or cam cover, just two tensioner bolts?

What happens next is probably a push pin that will be pushed up against a loose tensioner that may feel taught. Back just enough to ride over a cam sprocket gear tooth you start up to adjust the race tensioner. The way blue set you up is how he was lucky about the installation, I have no clue. If the book warns not to move the crank with the tensoner removed, how much of a gap does it take for a loose rung to run over those shallow hy-vo teeth?

Let the entertainment begin!

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WoHooo...well Hubster..if it says..."do not move with tensioner out"....Then WHY are you advising him to "move the rotation" "backwards" or at all? I explained the safest way(that I know of) to install the adjuster bolt...by getting it as close as possible yet still giving it room to allow "some" chain slap...no more slap than the factory gives at startup.Even the instructions on the tensioner mention NOTHING about MOVING the rotation of the engine to get the cam lobes "anywhere".Once the engine is running,there IS NO "high and low" area in the chain movement.It slaps until it gets some tension on there to keep er in line.You can always get a dowel and place it in the tensioner hole and mark how far in the shoe is,then pre-adjust the bolt beforehand to get er in the ballpark.I eyeballed mine.But someone else might do it another way.BTW...where does it say anything about "getting the cam lobes in the "correct" position"....while installing the factory tensioner?I must have missed that part.I didn't see any way for it to jump a tooth(not that it couldn't)(MAYBE)...in the diagram I looked at...pg 5-19.Those tolerances are pretty close IMO.Look how the chain has really nowhere to go with the shoes sitting in there,even if the aft one was not "tensioning".Besides,yer not gonna allow the thing to run several minutes to adjust...it's a very quick deal.Get er close,then start,then adjust quickly.That's it.Maybe I did get lucky....things with my bike have seemed to work out pretty good so far IN SPITE OF MY LACK OF UNDERSTANDING.

Besides...look at it.IF the thing was gonna "jump a tooth", doncha think they would have come up with a different way to keep startup tension on their chain?I do.Some o' those factory tensioners...mine included...ran for at least 7-10 seconds before they kicked in.I've never heard of any 14 owner that jumped a chain at startup yet (but the NOISE is certainly there!!!)"a ratchet that steps out"...okay,I'll bite....where is this?Pics anyone?It doesn't matter how much "slack" is on the chain when it's running....once pressure is applied to the spot where the adjustable shoe is at,the noise(slap) stops.Whether it's running backwards,forwards,"not quite TDC",cam lobe "not quite there yet"...or any other position of the crank and cam gears.Geez...the chain aint THAT stretched or loose!At least mine wasn't.I read nothing about "tensioner removal".I did read about the screwdriver deal and the removal of the valve cover before I installed my manual tensioner.Guess I did get lucky....I had NO problems with mine...took about 5-6 minutes to get er done.She only ran about "maybe" ten seconds tops while I got er adjusted.That was it...no drama at all.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/24/2010 @ 1:55 PM *

Hub tell me about your experience with that 2010 model ZX-14. How was it better than our older ones, you said more refined?

Mine has rattled on startup for a bout 3 seconds since I bought it four years ago. That's the noise it alwasys makes if it bleeds down over night, it doesn't hurt anything and requires no adjustment so I just leave it alone. I've never heard of an automatic adjuster failing on a 14.

* Last updated by: Kruz on 6/24/2010 @ 2:03 PM *

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Then WHY are you advising him to "move the rotation" "backwards" or at all?

The suggestion IS to load the crank taught = NOT MOVE A FRACTION OF AN INCH is to ride over the sprocket. This way, the chain slipper is going to be buttup loose against the most loose chain slack is a taught front not about to move on the most slack. Ever move the cam chain backwards? I'll show you a video if you like. I'll run it backwards it scares even me.

.BTW...where does it say anything about "getting the cam lobes in the "correct" position"....while installing the factory tensioner?

Oh, that was the old Z1 CB750 static set for the old style/new style. "old style" cam chain tensioner walk. It never told you the cam would backup in reverse via spring tension, the manuals just said, "To adjust cam chain, set #1 cylinder on TDC compression and then move 15° past TDC." This paraphrase never told you about the cam moving backwards that might cause slack and you fucked up the procedure you do not get it figured out to turn the crank with one hand taught is taught MEguyveer style is ME understand book think is think I have the basics is advance the procedural walk. You have to figure [things the book cannot be an encyclopedia how a tre worksandshit. Those are things you figure out, like the cam sensor code might not be a cam code. And that did not tell you in the book go look at the crank senor tone wheel rolling backwards on your Hall-Effect.

Get er close,then start,then adjust quickly.

Get ear close? Blue, come EAR. Well before 360°, will you tag a valve, 'get er close' THEN START EAR UP?????

I told you this was going to be entertaining.

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I told you this was going to be entertaining.

Kruz, I miss the OEM tires. Very light. Grippy but gone for 2 grand worth of miles. Refined as in the ECU. You can only feel it from 4 to 4,500 about. If you thought you had grunt with a two year swing, then we might be talking gen runs from 06-07 are one generation of fuel trims/sub speeds. The 08-09 might run like mine would be the '09.

Between not knowing an '09's running, but do with the '010, I swapped out ECU's, lost the 4 to 4,500 rpm late model's grunt window. Like I said, I made 164.36 HP with the '08 ECU, but could not feel that gain. It smoothed out what was crisp at that 4-4.5 rpm range. The stock 010 made 163.28HP.

You can see the A/F line run smooth rich above the stock 010 line, close down that leaner, meaner, late model throttle response. Kind of neat actually. The suspension was just a little stiffer. Took the bumps better. But then again, I have mine on the soft side; more like a pogo stick. The suspension was better, only by clicks. Other than that simple ECU swap, I'd chase a 2010 rather than a leftover.

Still an impressive bike no matter the year.

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Well...Hub...we weren't talking about a CB 750...his is a zx14.So all the insight about the 750 doesn't apply to THIS topic...unless it's clear that's what we need to know....which he doesn't.And yeah....you apparently were selective in your reading and picked out again what would suit your theory.I SAID.....PREADJUST.Not just stick er in there and fire er up.And I said HOW to preadjust...if ya read my post.Did you look at the diagram?Did you see the shoes in there doing their walk?Now tell me the chain is gonna flip off the cam sprockets with TWO shoes holding it in place on the top and forward side.And a preadjusted bolt lightly resting against the aft shoe.Another thing that you alluded to...is "running" the engine without the tensioner adjusted.The engine HAS to be running to adjust it.There's no other way to detect when it's actually adjusted correctly except by sound.You cannot adjust this deal "on the static" as you say.You preadjust.Install tensioner.Start the motor.Listen for chain slap.If there is none,you back the tensioner bolt out till you hear chain slap.Once you hear that,you slowly adjust back in till it goes away,then back out 1/2 turn.You do this till it's GONE.If you hear slap on the startup,she's too loose and you turn in to stop the noise,then back out 1/2 turn.Stop the engine.Restart and listen.It will be fully adjusted by doing this.It aint rocket science.ANYONE can do this.The position of the chain,crank,lobes...none of that matters.The pressure is on the aft shoe.THAT's what stops the rattle...not the parts positions.There's no room for the chain to slap at the front,or top.Not enough to cause the chain to jump a link anyway.That's MY take on it.Just going by the diagram and physics of the whole deal.Besides....yer not sitting there twistin the throttle up and down.She's only idling,and not for long while you adjust.

And just to clarify something here...when I posted about my sensor...which pointed directly to TIMING...I didn't hear you or anyone else suggesting I check my rotor.I understood what was happening ONLY because my mechanic saw the loose bolt in the rotor.And again....Kawasaki is not writing the book based on AFTERMARKET parts.Has ANYONE EVER experienced a factory rotor loosening and getting off time(on our 14's).No,I didn't think so....and neither did Kawasaki.In the real world,it won't happen.The sensor throwing the code was proving that the sensor was fine.I didn't understand how to "read" the episode.And nobody else here did either.So clownin me about "chasing ghosts" or whatever just shows how little some people really know what's going on with their bikes.Simple timing issue...all the symptoms were there.Clearly stated by yours truly.It did in fact occur again about 4 weeks ago.Same scenario started happening.First thing...pulled the ignition cover...lo and behold....there she was,loose again,and out of time.THIS TIME I fixed the problem...no sweat.That aint gonna happen with your factory rotor.EVER.All the "check yer wiring harness for shorts."Phantom codes"....all useless and a waste of time.And who suggested I do all that?Tear into my perfectly good harness....test my ECU....? It would have been a hell of a wild goose chase,I'll tell ya that!Are we entertained yet?

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/24/2010 @ 11:55 PM *

Best part about the cam chain rattle is it's gone in 1.5 seconds. Decided to place my faith in the engineers at Kawasaki again for now. Back to the auto adjusting cam chain tensioner & happy about it.

For Sale: One APE manual adjust cam chain tensioner for zx-14. Used 3000 miles or so. Perfect shape, no problems.. just changed my mind. $35 delivers it to you in lower 48 states. Reply here or use whatever messaging system this forum has to let me know if you want it.

tnx,

* Last updated by: motoCycho on 6/24/2010 @ 11:43 PM *

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Another thing that you alluded to...is "running" the engine without the tensioner adjusted.

I said, running less than one turn of the crank bends a valve. You fired it up, never turned the crank around to feel for chain hop.

The engine HAS to be running to adjust it.There's no other way to detect when it's actually adjusted correctly except by sound.

YOu know, they used to adjust a valve measurement that was .0015" of an inch clearance. They used to adjust that old CB450 bye sound. Come to find out that tiny gap by ear is I'd like to measure that gap after that sound check. It was obviously a tight valve with a valve never seating. It was the heating up of the old cam and rockers = Adjusted BYE SOUND! Scored big time!

You cannot adjust this deal "on the static" as you say.You preadjust.Install tensioner.

And now you are going to tell me a chain is a chain and yo, you adjust your drive chain running, YES OR NO am I being entertained by my own theory or your logical steps to chain adjusting.

And yeah....you apparently were selective in your reading and picked out again what would suit your theory.

It's not my theory. Page 5-15 in dark CAUTION, blocked in bold letters; "We are assembling the cam chain tensioner now and this is the last part to adjust. We replaced a few shims. Everything is back in place. The top slipper over the chain is on, as is the slipper against the chain, but whatever you do; try not to move the crank or it will send you to the parts counter for bent valves an shit, we will now install the tensioner. Snap the trap that lets the shaft ratchet out on the fly. This now has set the proper chain tension."

There's no room for the chain to slap at the front,or top.Not enough to cause the chain to jump a link anyway.That's MY take on it.

Relax. I have your back. You keep on 'taking takes' and I'll take the time to open the manual, point out caution signs along the way, we see a caution sign for something as simple as adjusting the drive chain running an shit.

...I didn't hear you or anyone else suggesting I check my rotor.I understood what was happening ONLY because my mechanic saw the loose bolt in the rotor.And again....Kawasaki is not writing the book based on AFTERMARKET parts.Has ANYONE EVER experienced a factory rotor loosening and getting off time(on our 14's).No,I didn't think so....and neither did Kawasaki.In the real world,it won't happen.

In the real world, the factory are loosening parts or know exactly what the cause and effects are. They just will not write all the odd code causes but give you those 3 basics and you are on your own times 3 basics of fuel/spark/compression and all the oddball diagnostics that go with those, are chapter after chapter on compression alone. I have no clue even to this day what that computer bike is all about. I know enough to get me by. I'm on that bike everyday in my head if not physically out in the garage making sync mods or swapping ECU. I have no clue of all the variables that can happen on a computer bike or I'd build fuel injection myself from scratch. It just does not happen like that. FI evolved, not just appeared one day.

And just to clarify things here, I stepped one more step in the book is look; Some guy was crying he had tensioner noise. One said run it, the other said follow the book 15° past TDC, and I said to load the chain(s) in the static so the slack is in the back. Not run it quiet. NoT degree'd at some preset position. I said to hold it anyplace on the crank you like was the 3rd way. And guess which adjustment came away with the most quiet of the 3 adjustable variables?

I rest my case, even your mechanic can't keep a bolt tight on the bike it happened again? All the bikes with the same bolts and even I'm switching back to a stock tone wheel and mine never danced a code loose. Adjusting cam chains are part of a tuneup. I think I've adjusted a few static tensioner assemblies in my time.

Entertaining for sure!

* Last updated by: Hub on 6/25/2010 @ 3:03 AM *

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"It's not my theory. Page 5-15 in dark CAUTION, blocked in bold letters; "We are assembling the cam chain tensioner now and this is the last part to adjust. We replaced a few shims. Everything is back in place. The top slipper over the chain is on, as is the slipper against the chain, but whatever you do; try not to move the crank or it will send you to the parts counter for bent valves an shit, we will now install the tensioner, snap the trap that flies out that ratchet sets the proper chain tension."

Huh?We're not talking about a factory tensioner...And I haven't found that discourse in my manual...what page was that on again?

"I said, running less than one turn of the crank bends a valve. You fired it up, never turned the crank around to feel for chain hop."

Huh? So the cam chain doesn't turn the crank?(or vice-versa).Enlighten me...This is way over my head here.My valves are fine...did I miss messing em up here?

"I rest my case, even your mechanic can't keep a bolt tight on the bike it happened again? All the bikes with the same bolts and even I'm switching back to a stock tone wheel and mine never danced a code loose. Adjusting cam chains are part of a tuneup. I think I've adjusted a few static tensioner assemblies in my time".

What's a static tensioner assembly?

It wasn't the mount bolt that was loose..it was the outer ring lock bolts that had loosened."And even I'm switching back to a stock tone wheel"....since when have you installed an aftermarket ignition advancer?

"I rest my case, even your mechanic can't keep a bolt tight on the bike it happened again?

Huh??? You rest your case about what exactly?.What does "keeping a bolt tight" have to do with installing a tensioner..a manual one...THAT was the topic, not some convoluted diatribe about adjusting drive chains while the bikes in gear running... as opposed to the actual physics of the cam chain and it's design properties.Doesn't matter to me if you go through all that stuff to install a factory part.Mine works great.Anyone installing a manual tensioner the way I described it is gonna have a trouble free quiet cam chain.Bottom line.Thousands would agree with me...not that that matters.That's non important to me.I'm trying to help Rebus out...not prove how "Smart I am".I'm addressing his topic question...not blowin smoke to impress anyone.

"And now you are going to tell me a chain is a chain and yo, you adjust your drive chain running, YES OR NO am I being entertained by my own theory or your logical steps to chain adjusting".

Where did I say "a chain is a chain?"That was the whole point behind mentioning the chain action with the shoes and the design configuration of the way it runs around the cam sprockets and crank...that it was VERY unlikely to jump a tooth...which is what YOU said it would do...not me.Show me where I said that.

Rebus wants a quiet chain...doing what you say is NOT gonna get him what he's looking for.Now if he wants the same results as he's got...he'll do it your way...and most likely end up botching the job(no offense to Reb),having to take his bike to the dealer.Having them tell him something along the lines of..."yep,well,you really did it now...it's gonna cost ya,this deal here...two weeks we'll need it.She's gonna need this,and this ,and,oh yes...especially one of these..you managed to break that while you were....following WHO's advice?Some guy ya met on a forum somewhere?say it aint so...anyway-they ARE quite spendy,this "whatnot" you broke,so we'll need to get a hefty down payment from ya".He'll get his bike back(course,they won't have needed to replace anything)(but Reb won't know that)...the valve cover will leak...he'll need to run er back down there again.They'll tell him "ya,well they all do this...BUT...we have this "special" gasket that'll cure what ails ya"...naturally,he 'll bite.And GET bitten.And his "new" tensioner will STILL make noise.Sound about right?

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/25/2010 @ 3:55 AM *

If your bike never had a rattle(like mine)and now does on startup, what has changed. APE has made a product that is simple and easy to use but I am still not clear on why or what has happened to the factory set up to cause this rattle.

We keep saying it's normal because we all have it or will have but still ?????? If we install the factory set up all new, will rattle be gone ?

I'm just lookin at it in a way that makes sense to me.Someone else,well,I don't know what their motives are.I can't say why the factory tensioner would begin to allow chain slack...and that's what it is.Oil viscosity changes?Using a different oil weight?Temperature of the startup scenario.IDK.But I do know this...the APE(or whoever else makes one similar)remains constant.It's not dependent on any of the above things.You set it,that's it.Perhaps a recheck once in a while.As long as she's quiet,the tensioner is adjusted and working correctly.I've only rechecked mine once in 33,000 miles.As I said...It needed NO ADJUSTING.It was fine.And my bike's been put through her paces,top speed runs numerous times,and high speed cruisings as well...regularly.I don't have an ulterior motive for the stuff I share here with my ownership of my bike.I just do some things occasionally with her.If I screw it up...I say so.If it works without drama...I say so.I'm not afraid to be wrong about anything I share here.A guy says he's having this or that.If I think I can help him with the simplest,most clear way of explaining it (to me),then that's what I say.If it doesn't work...and I mess things up...I'm gonna say that...so the next guy doesn't make the same mistake.That's where I'm at.

Personally,it's hard for me to believe that the 14,the way the part is designed,and my own experience with mine,that it wouldn't rattle at startup.At least some.Maybe not as pronounced as someone else's bike.But some noise.It doesn't activate until it gets oil pressure up there into it,so I don't know why it wouldn't rattle.But if someone says they don't get startup noise...then they don't get noise.Period.Mine did.Loudly.I didn't like how it sounded.And installing a "new" tensioner to eliminate the factory part...well,I don't see how that's going to "fix" any noise problem considering the design of the part.If a guy has no noise...then why replace anything.If it just starting to develope....then there may be something that has changed to cause it to now begin.Part beginning to fail?Chain changing properties..stretching?Cam sprockets wearing? I don't know.Different weight oil?It's possible it's not the tensioner at all.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/25/2010 @ 4:22 AM *

Bottom line.Thousands would agree with me...not that that matters.That's non important to me.I'm trying to help Rebus out...not prove how "Smart I am".I'm addressing his topic question...not blowin smoke to impress anyone.

Bottom line, you put words in other peoples mouths. Helping rebus out is to point out that cautionary tale on page 5-15.

Camshaft Chain Tensioner Removal:

"Do not turn over crankshaft while tensioner is removed."
________________________________________________________________
That was the quote above. This is my title and the same quote. See if you do not agree.
Camshaft Chain Tensioner Installation is reassemble in reverse order, yes or no?

"Do not turn over crankshaft while tensioner is removed."
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

That's non important to me.I'm trying to help Rebus out...not prove how "Smart I am".I'm addressing his topic question...not blowin smoke to impress anyone.

I agree hole heart it be that as it may, I am not blowing smoke up page 5-15 am I? I'm just proving how smart the book is, not some hee-haw whackiss package, doing harm to a member's bike is that book must mean shit around here is here was a wise ass comment from the book?

HAnd the entertainment has yet to subside is I'm taking the book's side is call me a wise guy all you want. I'm too stupid on my own is I need a backUP, to shove it rug right back up your ass burn you running down the hall dogassburning learning curve.

Cam chain video is about to commence, I'll show you slack with tensioner installed, and then the proper load in my pants, move out of the hall way is ear comes butt squirts. Let me try that ass burn doggie style.

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You DO understand the book nomenclature...yes?Of course you do.Pg.5-15...."It's not my theory".....(If it's NOT your theory Hub,then where is this conversation on page 5-15?). "Page 5-15 in dark CAUTION, blocked in bold letters"; "We are assembling the cam chain tensioner now and this is the last part to adjust. We replaced a few shims. Everything is back in place. The top slipper over the chain is on, as is the slipper against the chain, but whatever you do; try not to move the crank or it will send you to the parts counter for bent valves an shit, we will now install the tensioner, snap the trap that flies out that ratchet sets the proper chain tension". This is supposed to be a hypothetical conversation about the pitfalls of moving the crank?...If this is true...why aren't my valves bent...and why does my engine run perfect.And why are my valves in factory spec...every one.And how bout the others Hub...how bout their bent valves and shitty running engines?Nobody's posted anything about the dangers of installing the manual tensioner...except...YOU.And you don't even HAVE one.Neither have you INSTALLED one.I know because you wouldn't battle about this deal if you had.You'd be encouraging Rebus to "fix" his problem,even if YOU didn't want to for your own bike,by getting the manual tensioner. The only person who doesn't see this charade is YOU.Everybody else is getting entertained.
I must be blind...I don't see any paragraph with a mechanic talkin to his student about installing a tensioner.I do however see the bold type...."CAUTION"....and I will offer you this my friend...PG..."foreward"...Right hand column,just below the description of the "WARNING" box explanation."CAUTION"...COULD result in damage(etc.etc.).Now back to pg 5-15.Top "Caution" Box....COULD upset the camshaft chain(etc.etc.).It's not a "will result",it's a COULD result.BTW...whose mechanic/student dialogue is that anyway?Yer stuck...stuck on the factory deal.This aint about "the factory deal"....this is about install and adjustment of a manual tensioner,and an explanation that NOTHING IS WRONG WITH Rebus's tensioner(which was his ORIGINAL question).Simple...straightforeword.He's got two ways to go.I explained Your way as clearly as I could....and the possible consequences of not getting it right(removing the cover,gasket,the screwdriver deal...all that..and getting it back together without any problems)AND,the very real possibility that his "shop" is gonna soak him because they can.

And I offered Rebus an alternative route.Simple,straightforeward, and a very REAL way of "fixing" his original question topic.No valve covers,no gaskets,no screwdriver Pop the Pin deals.No removing fairings,no removing throttlebodies or stick coils or any of the wonderfully easily breakable items that adorn the lovely top end..No unplugging of connectors.No hoping "I THINK I did that?...geez,not sure now.Shit...gotta remove my midfairing again just to be sure"...None o'that stuff.Which way do you think his original question/topic should be handled?

I'll say it one last time...his desire is to eliminate the cam chain startup rattle.PERIOD.That's it.Not a lesson in HOW TO TEAR DOWN YOUR TOP END and position the chain for the install(you still haven't shown me THAT little bit of gold).My way will eliminate it(and it aint just"my way"),your way will NOT eliminate it.Period.End of story.Find me ONE person who installed a manual tensioner...as per the instructions with the unit...that EVER bent a valve,or jumped a chain....Find me one Hub.Just ONE..NOT anything else...no cb750 or whatever. Damage to a zx14 HUB...now... there's my challenge to you.If you REALLY want to back up your theory(remember...the "caution" says "COULD"...not "WILL" here)...you'll find me one.One that I can verify for myself.I'll take the time to do just that,I will.I can back mine up with living testimonies... right here on THIS forum for starters.And I don't know any of the guys here personally.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/25/2010 @ 1:57 PM *

Are you sure you want to see this video? Blue? I have your challenge from start to throw you under the bus. YOu are looking bad I take a poke at a chain. Want the long version from start to finish or cut it down, show you the highlights? It's not pleasant to watch being on the receiving end.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TS_2JrdT1E4

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Well...I'm glad REBUS got his risers and cables assembled okay.That can be frustrating.Nice vid..... And you took the time to produce that just for me....awww...I'm touched Bro!Thank You! I see those chain jumpers are knockin down your door there!!!!! ....BTW..."I make THIS look GOOD"

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/26/2010 @ 12:03 AM *

My point is you missed the slack in the front like all the CB750/CB1100F squids back then as there is no change we fast forward 40 years to now.
And if you slipped it in first, pushed forward, then start it, bet me the noise is not even there. I'll have to take that bet once I change tires and brakes. I had to change back to the stock advance because I'm detuning the bike to an '06.

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Just fer shits and giggles.... ...How ya liken that AFTERMARKET timing advancer?Workin okay on your"I never change anything from stock" bike?Ya...they are awesome.If ya need any advice on resettin yer Cam Position Sensor,gimme a holler.Been there,done that!

"My POINT is you missed the slack in the front LIKE ALL THE SQUIDS back then".......Aw Hubster...you know how I get when ya sweet talk me like that!

"missed the slack in the front".....Hmmmm....last time I checked,the tensioner is at the aft part of the chain run. ...I KNOW this is what the thing looked like...yeah,that's gotta be it? .Oh well,work or not,my baby's quiet as a churchmouse since I changed that thing...what was that called again?

Wait a second...didn't you say YOU were the one working on the 750?I never got to get my then "dream bike".Oh well,no matter.I've got my baby now!....Just fer you Hub...see...I care about you too!(today's NOT WIDE OPEN trek into the "no bent valves "zone)!!!ENJOY!!(I did)

Isn't THIS entertaining?

And ANOTHER thing...let's get this straight....I'm a POSER,not a Squid!

You know Hub...you just may be on to something here.In yer(my)(thanks again)video....the slack at the front WAS there as well,as you so deftly and pointedly showed( ) .Do you think that MAYBE there might be a place on the Kawasaki Design team for ya?Looks to me like that area of slack right there just might benefit havin a "Hubster Helper automatic chain tensioner" right there..kinda like a frontal lobotomy deal.Whattaya Think Big Guy? ,,,"It's not pleasant to watch being on the receiving end"....I think I could watch another one o'those and be okay...thanks for askin...but I'm not so sure you can handle another video like that my man...ya sounded like yer getting ready to vapor-lock.Yer okay aren't you?( ..."vapor-lock"...sorry,must be a Squid thing from "back then"....

And before you ask...the answer is NO,you can't practice with my factory tensioner...I might need it if I ever decide to shave my azz,walk backwards,and relive the old "Harley Days"...you know....those ones where you would just SWEAR yer motor's gonna blow cause she's makin a helluva racket.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/26/2010 @ 12:19 AM *

Just gotta thank ya once again Hub for taking the time to create such an informative video display of the workings of the timing chain.You know,watching that vid made me realize something,and gain a new found respect for the Kawasaki design team.Seeing how that slack was taken out by turning that crank there,and knowing that the factory tensioner is in no way connected to the crank or timing portion of the engine,I realized that Kawasaki has come up with a way to telepathically get that tensioner to activate against that shoe(or is it a slipper?..I can't remember)at exactly the right revolution of that crank so that chain won't jump those TWO(double smart tensioner there) sprockets there at startup.It's AMAZING really...don't you think?Those Japanese....aint they somethin?What do you think would happen to that chain if I ran my engine backwards?Think that tensioner would know?It's quite intellegent apparently.

WOW...it just hit me.....NOW I know why you wanted those factory tensioners you asked about here.You smart man you!Yer savin em up for when the information revolution happens,and all the neato electronic gadgets are gonna be confiscated...yes?You'll have a technological GOLDMINE...kinda like "money in the bank" so to speak!Something to barter with,once the Apocalypse happens,and we're all trying to get our tensioners working okay?You...yer good you.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/26/2010 @ 2:09 AM *