THAT is exactly what I described doing Kawnow and it's so easy and simple is why I don't get the hubbub... been doin it that way for years, and with big cruisers, never one mishap n takes all of about 10 seconds to check!

(gotta add holding the front brake though)

* Last updated by: mad5674 on 3/1/2012 @ 4:42 PM *

"Rook what you are describing there is a monkey fuckin a football not someone checking oil"....it's HIS way of checking.WTF with the critcizism...leave it at the door.I've done it Rook's way...whatever works.No offense.If you're joking...at least show a smiley face or somethin.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/1/2012 @ 4:37 PM *

Interesting how the pics scottjkyl provided contradict what happens on my bike.
His level actually rises a little when on the stand. Mine drops quite a bit...from barely at the bottom of the glass
(on rear stand) to right in the middle when the bike is balanced straight up. His level is a little cocked too for some reason. Since the oil will always be true level, his sightglass marks must be positioned differently than mine(?).
So I don't know how to explain the differences.
As for oil temps and when to check, you always warm up the motor fully, turn off and let it sit a good 5 minutes. Doing it any other way will give you a false read.
Hub, you say page 112 says "if the bike was running, let it sit for a few minutes." You interpret that as the bike wasn't at full operating temp and somehow backs up your opinion that you can accurately judge oil level with cold oil in the motor. How do you know how long the bike was running?
If you change the oil, start the bike only long enough to get oil through the new filter, shut down with cold oil, you can't get an accurate read in the glass. After 5 minutes the cold oil will still be trapped in the motor and not drain so you can read it accurately.

* Last updated by: KAK on 3/1/2012 @ 5:41 PM *

Yeah, KAK, I take that as two ways of checking oil. It sounds like one is saying, 'if you just changed the filter, this is how much you time you'll need for drain down.' The other is saying, 'if you just came from a ride,' it seems that both need a few minutes of drain down time, but cold or hot? It is not saying check cold or check hot.

If we are going to be vague about where to set level, hot or cold, personally, I'll be adding more oil if we could measure window height between cold/hot variables. That means, I want a cold-high-level-middle line. I do not want a hot line, come the cold morning, my level is below spec.

Again, I'm chasing that raggedge bubble, but not where it pumps into the ram chamber, I over pressured the crankcase bubble.

3.7 = no filter change.
4.1 = w/change.
4.5 = with drains captured you do not see.

That means, 4 and 1/2 quarts are being pumped inside. 1/2 a quart will ruin the bubble bursts. 1 quart will you wonder where the grunt went. Something like that.

As for the checking the level at operating temp, that's how you're supposed to do it.

Oil expands A LOT when hot. The volume is much dif with hot oil than cool.

I would think checking with the engine hot would make for the most consistency because a hopt engine on a cool day is about the same as the hot engine on a hot day--as long as you check it very promptly. BUT, that is the problem, you check it rigth away after shut down, a couple hundred ml of oil is dispersed up in the engine and it aint commin down treal soon. Aint comin down in 15 minutes. Ain't commin down until well after the motor has cooled off. SO, there goes your hot check out the window, IMHO.]\

Check when cool. Think about it, you fill your crankcase with cool oil after a oil change. Let it sit an hour so every drop runs down off the clutch plates. Look at you sight glass. THAT is COOL oil you are looking at and if you measure and put in the KAWI suggested amount, the oil will be right in the marks. Try filling with hot oil some time. The level will be above the top of the window.

"Rook what you are describing there is a monkey fuckin a football not someone checking oil"

heheh, I took it as a joke. But now that you mention it, that may just be the reason I check oil so often!

I still maintain that you need to get your eye down to the window to see the oil level and marks properly.

Yes we have been over this topic a # of x but it is a good one. SOme one suggested using a hand mirror to get a low view of the sight glass. Sounds like an award wiener.

Kick stand down or not, leg on pipe or not, kneeling beside the bike is a precarious position to be in while holding the bike up. I would say if you are a bit leery that is just common sense. You can learn to handle it but it is always a bit risky, like lifting a bike on a sidestand. SH!t happens and then it is not so simple all the sudden what you were trying to do.

Yeah. I Have a valve cover leak and I can tell after I add oil, there is this sweet spot where I get max grunt. As far as using rear stands and a level to check your oil, it is not necessary I just had to do that to know for sure if and how much oil I was loosing. HOWEVER, we don't have the same physical attributes... I can lower my 14 till the pegs touch down and lift her back up for reps but if you dropped you bike or feel you will it is best you use stands. That has nothing to do with oil check accuracy.

kak remember if the bike is out of plumb on the stand or off, it will drastically change the level in the sight glass an 1/8" off in either direction will make it look full or low

Just imagine if we had a thread on how to hump the wife or girl friend , this site would have 6000 members and just as many was to do the job.

could just imagine some of the replies we would get and the debate

bet that would make for some good reading lol

Lol I ve got the wife manual

Ya...I stand corrected."COLD check" is not necessary.I still check mine before I take er out....sometimes.

Speechless.

I still check mine before I take er out....sometimes.

That is the only way to do it IMHO.

Just looked at the SM and it does not really seem to indicate that warm or cold check should be treated any differently. Just says to "wait several minutes for all of the oil to drip down to the crankcase." Several minutes is not long long enough unless they mean at least 45.

Some people question the worthiness of this topic but I'd say it proves itself by the many different opinions.

"Some people question the worthiness of this topic but I'd say it proves itself by the many different opinions".

Ya...things can be deceiving and vague at times reading that manual.You must think like a Ninja .

Why can't you have the sight glass on the left side and position so as to be in the correct spot for full while on the side stand.

That would do for a quick reference when heading off for the morning.

Still have the bike level one for the oil change, get it right times

I suppose its all about money.

Hmmm...I'll take a guess here.Other than doing it as you said...if you 'lift' the bike off it's sidestand,and pull towards you,IF it falls away while trying to balance it, it will be saved by the sidestand...They probably don't expect the bike to fall into the rider and cause any problem.IDK...just a guess.

What you say Ethin makes perfect sense....IDK why they can't do it like that.Maybe they want us to 'get to know our bike's balance'....maybe?Kinda of a pre-ride test?Make sure we can still feel when she's leaning one way or the other?Good way to 'bond' with yer baby....having to depend on your own abilities to keep er from crunchin?

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/2/2012 @ 6:45 PM *

Probably 'cause it could sit on any unlevel surface on the sidestand.

mad5674,Grn14, I agree but level ground aside it would be simpler to do

You would have to think in years to come that an electric gauge will be on the way, we already have a low press light that been around for a 100 years , so why not a level gauge like the fuel tanks have that gives you an average over time as well as the red light.

no doubt it will come one day, and so will electric bikes with no oil at all.

so will electric bikes with no oil at all.

Methinks the electric bike is gonna make production before the oil level indicator light but good idea anyway. We do have a low oil pressure light now but I guess that is not the best thing to rely on for proper oil level.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/3/2012 @ 7:15 PM *

Some people question the worthiness of this topic but I'd say it proves itself by the many different opinions.

* Last updated by: KAK on 3/5/2012 @ 12:23 PM *

I'm just pointing out how different the level can look depending on the method you use and if you use stands.

+1 and if you have hot oil or cold or if you have some of the oil run back to the crankcase or all....

There are a lot of variables. that's why i like the cold check after the bike has not been run for several hours. All the things that affect oil level appearance have stabilized. ..,except getting the bike perfectly vertical.

get your bike level, check the oil and get it where you want it. Now put the bike on the stand, and check the oil level. Just get it to that same level when the bike's on the stand. (-) = (/) The amount of oil is the same.

get your bike level, check the oil and get it where you want it. Now put the bike on the stand, and check the oil level. Just get it to that same level when the bike's on the stand. (-) = (/) The amount of oil is the same.

I think he was saying to fill it as normal and check to make sure it is between the marks. Immediately put it on the stand and see how it looks. If it barely shows in the glass as you say, that is how it should ALWAYS look when on the stand. You could draw a mark across the glass with a sharpie if you wanted.