Really Dan, I just want to hear the sound of an exhaust on that bike as soon as possible. I don't know if I can handle riding it a year with the stock exhaust and on the other hand, I do know it will take me a year to install the turbo. ...so an extra $2500 for a Brocks full system and enjoy the breakin before turbo? Maybe I could use the exhaust for another 14. I do want to replace my Gen1 I wrecked so maybe the full system would fit that. ...or maybe the turbo would fit a Gen1. Then I'd have to buy the Gen1. I could mix and match!

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Ha thats true. I wish I had taken the easy route and just shipped it off or at least of a quote to have BoomstuneHQ install my stage 2 ultra kit. I am past new ZX14R prices just in parts and tools and replacement parts for stuff I broke. Theres a chance I did something wrong and toasted the motor as well as the shiny parts I threw in there too. I also realized just now that I've been at this for more than 3 months now. I am hoping I can wrap up before the riding season is done. I have been postponing moving until this bike is wrapped up. Getting too tired of living in the country.

If I did it all over again I might go Busa. Just because they are a lot easier to work on with the engine installed. dont need to drop the engine to do valves, remove head, etc. If I knew I would eventually go turbo, I wouldve gotten a busa. Wish the rear end of the 14s looked as good as the gen 3 busa too... grass is always greener I suppose.

Gen 1 and 2 headers fit eachother in my experience. I sold my Brocks AlienHead to my buddy who had a Gen 1. I would advise you search Facebook Marketplace for used exhausts first. There is a stong discount 50-90% off of used Brocks 14 Exhausts. Also... You could also go the redneck way and just remove the mufflers and add the clip on shorty tips. Pretty sure those are sub-$200. Sounds reasonable for what it is. I might have a Brocks exhaust that my buddy is selling. I'll see him tonight and see what he wants for it. I think he has the predator or something. It isnt in perfect condition but it's good still. He's also got a first gen 14 that is 100% being parted out if you want it or something from it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/202104644208?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=202104644208&targetid=2512152189032&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1026438&poi=&campaignid=21214286338&mkgroupid=161030074701&rlsatarget=pla-2512152189032&abcId=9407521&merchantid=8266854&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21214286338&gbraid=0AAAAAD_QDh-mrmlJvMKzZ9fD2jHiVFRWW&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjdTCBhCLARIsAEu8bpKULwSNpWQZeWxQKkWViJeWUMHFneyYBUXIImcQ2Cq_UHyy2-AvGEEaAs6wEALw_wcB

Haha. Not sure if these are the right ones but this is pretty dang cheap and lets you drop about 40 pounds of weight. Comes with baffles

I also realized just now that I've been at this for more than 3 months now.

...and you built the engine. I'm sure I'll be picking away at mine for at least 12 months and I'm just putting the turbo kit on.

If I did it all over again I might go Busa.

You'll make more power with a ZX-14 than any gen of busa with similar setup. The TTS supercharger was making more power out of the 14R than the Hayabusa. Of course, if money's no object, I'm sure you can pick whichever you want and build it to make as much power as you want. I could turbo my Gen2 busa now that you mention it. That would solve the problem of digging into a brand new bike, wouldn't it? ...but then I would have to turbo the 14R someday too.

Gen 1 and 2 headers fit eachother in my experience. I sold my Brocks AlienHead to my buddy who had a Gen 1.

It's been years but I think I remember back in about 2012, Romans told me Brocks no longer made a Gen1 specific header because the Gen2 fit both. A Brocks Gen1 header probably is best for a Gen1 but good luck finding one of those today.

You could also go the redneck way and just remove the mufflers and add the clip on shorty tips.

I knew a guy who had car exhaust tips welded onto his Gen1 stock pipes. I think it sounded great. It cost him about fifty bucks plus the fee for welding. For the Gen2, especially the latest ones, I'd be a little concerned about the fueling with any aftermarket exhaust. My coworker said his shop told him the bike was running pretty lean, I assume more so at higher rpm since he is riding the bike on stock mapping right now.

Haha. Not sure if these are the right ones but this is pretty dang cheap and lets you drop about 40 pounds of weight. Comes with baffles

Baffles schmaffles! I like it as loud as it gets. That's one thing I'm expecting to like about a turbo exiting the lower fairing.

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June 20th, 2025

I'd give you my flashed ECU for an exhaust and filter but it's not compatible outside of 2012-15 unfortunately. The used brocks full system would be $300+ shipping if you wanted to talk about that some just PM me. I'd personally just get the shorties from Ebay and a Schnitz flash. for about $350 all-in. I've got a like-new 2012+ P08 I'd ship to you for pretty cheap. May as well make the riding season worth it while you can!

Got my tires swapped the the black wheels with ceramic bearings. Went to a buddy's shop. He's got a nicer space and arguably cooler bike. Some high comp, built motor, carbon wheels, half-mile BoomstuneHQ bike. He's tearing it down for new fairings.

I'd give you my flashed ECU for an exhaust and filter but it's not compatible outside of 2012-15 unfortunately.

I think there might be a few things about this 2024 ECU that are unique. I'll probably wait to buy a used 2024 ECU before I flash. Guess I'll go the old Power Commander rout. I know people used them on top of a flash. I have a PC5 on my wrecked Gen1. I could just switch that over. I hate to flash my brand new stock ECU LOL!

The used brocks full system would be $300+ shipping if you wanted to talk about that some just PM me.

I'm stuck on the 17" CT Meg. It will cost me 10x as much but I gotta have the best. If I turbo the 14R, will use the Brocks on my Gen1 I plan to buy in the next year or two. I already have a Tsukigi exhaust on my wrecked Gen1. The exhaust looks good except for a slightly flattened spot on the muffler from the crash. I'll slash cut that fucker off. The new Gen1 will need the best Brocks exhaust at some point though. I remember it was 2009 and Brock came out with the CT systems. He hasn't come up with anything better since.

I have the same Tsukigi exhaust for my Gen2 busa and it is ab-so-lutely amazing. They made expansion chambers in the head pipes for the Hayabusa. It's not as loud as the ZX-14 was but it really looks like they put some hard thought into designing that exhaust for the busa.

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June 22nd, 2025

Ignore filthy garage.

Ceramic Bearing Wheels are on. Looks good. Looks like a bike again. I am working on brake pad spreaders for the front brakes.

Gotta do the chain and boost reference lines still. I pressure tested the airbox and it held a lot of pressure. I added some epoxy to previously identified leaking spots and risk areas and it is leak free.

New Lockup-compatible clutch cover arrives in a few days. then I do my first start...

I am working on brake pad spreaders for the front brakes.

A special tool for opening the brake pads so the rotor fits between them? Sounds nifty. I always just twisted a wooden shim in there and they open up slowly.

I pressure tested the airbox and it held a lot of pressure. I added some epoxy to previously identified leaking spots and risk areas and it is leak free.

We have a guy on here called 1bad who was talking about smoke testing his air box. It had lots of leak points. I'll probably invest in one of those tools someday. Also, whatever thing you're using to produce pressure in the air box. It seems like using both at the same time would be ideal if that's possible.

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Nah I've played with those smoke machines and i hate them. They work great maybe 2-3 times then they stop working. Each one costs about $50 and the smoke fluid stinks and won't clean off of anything. I just used this air compressor adapter with a pressure regulator to pressure the airbox and then sprayed soapy water all over every surface. If there is a leak you'll see bubbles blown from the leak spot. Only downside is everything is covered in soapy water residue, but that's far far better than the smoke machines. Just gotta be smart enough to soak the potential leak areas and read a gauge.

The pad spreader is for when the calipers and pads are installed on the bike. Keeps the pads from resting on the rotors any amount until the lever is pulled. Won't add much resistance if any to the lever. I'm thinking it'll work on the rears, but not the front. There isn't a lot of meat to drill holes into the brakes for the springs to sit in.

It might not work and I'll just throw the springs on a different bike.

I replaced my pads with some Ebay Brand Chinese brake pads and they survived pretty well despite my best efforts. I'm gonna throw in a new set of the cheap ones until I start going fast. I am hoping to save up for a good brake system while I baby the motor for 1000-2000 miles.

Only downside is everything is covered in soapy water residue, but that's far far better than the smoke machines.

Yeah, I'll bet. I was reading about the smoke machines and it says you can use a conventional smoke bomb! Imagine cleaning that out of the air box!

The pad spreader is for when the calipers and pads are installed on the bike. Keeps the pads from resting on the rotors any amount until the lever is pulled.

I see, to avoid rust on the rotors and more, to avoid that annoying squeal. It's more the fronts that produce the drag after the bike sits a while.

I'm gonna throw in a new set of the cheap ones until I start going fast.

I was thinking Berringer for my Gen1. They have a tiny rear brake caliper. I'm pretty intrigued with the thumb brake too and the floating rear brake MC. ...been a few years since I looked at all that stuff, they might have something new. ISR was also a brand I was interested in. Decent brakes and very light weight. Those exposed pots look really cool. Of course, you always have the top shelf Brembo stuff. My 2024 has Brembos but as for just normal riding so far, I don't feel a bit of difference from the Nissans on my Gen1. You have to be a pretty aggressive rider on the street to use really good brakes. I do like instant grab at the slightest touch though. The old Nissans weren't bad for that at all but it could be a touch better. I think it's mostly the MC responsible for that. You really know what good brakes are after you ride a bike with bad brakes. That's my busa, wooden brakes! They're just barely up to the task but fine I guess after you get used to them. Brakes is the weak point on that bike though.

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I've looked into all the popular brands and combinations. Brembo upgrade, BrakeTech, Beringer, Braking, Galfer, but everyone just says they are good and thats about it. Hard to decide without side by side comparisons. The Beringer setup is pretty popular. My understanding is that it is a universal setup though. So you'd need to make sure caliper spacing and all that jazz is correct. I know someone who is installing Beringers on their bike, but they have BST wheels so the bolt pattern of the wheel can house the right rotors and so on. Hard to find much about the Beringer zx14 install and needed parts. What is easy to find- are people complaining about a $2-3k cost for putting Beringers on their bikes... Also most riders just keep the Nissins. They do a reasonable job already. I'm sure if I threw name-brand brake pads on there it would help out a lot too. I already have stainless braided brake lines, no ABS, and recently refinished Rotors.

June 24th, 2025

Installed Clutch cover that fits the 2-stage lockup. Added oil. Hit the start button for 10-20 seconds to get oil pumped through engine. Haven't started it yet. Made some funny mechanical noises when holding the starter. I'm hoping it's from the new parts like the mechanical scavenger pump. Gonna stick a camera in the spark plug hole to comfort myself before starting it

* Last updated by: danmin on 6/25/2025 @ 2:51 PM *

June 25th, 2025

Added AFR Gauge. Fixed boost reference lines and routing. Waiting for some amazon electrical parts to come in so i can finish wiring things correctly. Also waiting on more vacuum hose to run some to the boost gauge. Then I'll start it.

* Last updated by: danmin on 6/25/2025 @ 2:55 PM *

I'm sure if I threw name-brand brake pads on there it would help out a lot too. I already have stainless braided brake lines, no ABS, and recently refinished Rotors.

I've used EBC HH pads. I guess I'm a spoil sport but they work no better than OEM in my opinion. They don't squeal under light braking like the OEM pads can.

I've always heard the MC is really what is responsible for feel and if you look underneath the Nissan front MC you see a number molded into the housing or the clamp. That number must be the bore of the MC. I don't recall whether it's large bore and short stroke or small bore and long stroke...I just know I was talking to a guy who knew about it and he remarked that the number molded into the MC would indicate a fairly aggressive brake system. I don't brake aggressively very often but I still appreciate the instant grab with max braking in minimal lever travel. What's good for racing often is good for the street too. This is only my opinion but SS lines don't make a bit of difference if your stock rubber ones are in good condition. I put kevlar on the 14 and braided SS on the busa. Looks cool but made no difference in braking, at least how I use them. ...but like I said, I depend on distance a lot to slow down, even on a track. I never practiced the technique much of being on the throttle and then going straight to hard on the brake. I still like a brake almost like an on/off switch rather than needing to feel it out for max braking. I can max brake in an emergency, I just have preferred not to do that for ordinary riding.

Be careful before starting that baby up! Funny mechanical noises, I hope you were on the phone to Richard right away. I would.

The gauges look incredible! You must have done some research to find those little ones which are ideal for a motorcycle. The best I found were the small, rectangular ones with digital display. I much prefer analog. Nothing wrong with a numeric expression but if you're looking down for a split second, analog is fastest to process mentally. Our buddy Kruz, is an aircraft expert and he said that fighter jets are still using analog gauges.

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That f--ckin exhaust pipe looks as bad as f-ck! I don't know what you're going to do but I'd be tuning it to blow some fire on decel. I don't even care what happens to the fairing, I'll buy another one. I know you have a pile of money sunk in this Dan but I see you have your main coolant pipe off. Samco...hint hint. Shrink straps for securing the hoses. You'll shave a pound of hardware. ...only if you want, I know you have a fortune in this bike already. I'd go with a bright red on the Samcos, that'll be your accent color and the main pipe will be visible through the side vent. Either that or black and no accent color. Now's the time to decide.

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I am right there with you about analog gauges. hard to find one for AFR that works with the way my mind works. This one has the digital number in the middle as well as a red, yellow, and green ring around the top that shows where in the lean-ideal-rich range the bike is in. Sorta doesn't match the more classic analog boost gauge but oh well. The main dash has a flatscreen on it.

I saw that ZXPredator guy put on a Brembo MC RC19 or something like that for his brake and clutch. I might do the same one of these days.

And no calls to Richard. No telling what the noise is to be honest. There's not oil in a lot of areas where there would normally be, just assembly lube. also my balancers are out of balance and so on. I might stick a camera into the cylinders to make sure the cam chain didn't jump a tooth or something. Could be a whole bunch of different things. If I check everything out and nothing looks weird then I'll do the first start.

This one has the digital number in the middle as well as a red, yellow, and green ring around the top that shows where in the lean-ideal-rich range the bike is in.

That works about the same as analog for me. I had a bar graph on my Gen1 for AFR. As long as it's visual instead of numeric, I can see what's basically going on at a glance.

I saw that ZXPredator guy put on a Brembo MC RC19 or something like that for his brake and clutch. I might do the same one of these days.

That was that big dude from Canada. He was a teacher. Good guy. Yes, I think the 19 was the one to go with but do your research. If you drag race, might want something altogether different for the clutch than the brake. It's amazing how facile human motor skills are. You can have a brake that sucks as bad as a busa's and still learn to use it effectively. LOL I pulled that sucker about to the grip once or twice. It will lock the tire but if I'm looking for just shy of locking the tire, I want to find it as soon as possible.

also my balancers are out of balance and so on.

I'm pretty sure you can delete the balancers. You can on the Gen1. The busa doesn't have balancers if I recall. I know I saw some kind of balancer delete aftermarket part for the ZX-14. Less weight, less rotating mass...although I'll worry a lot less about all that with turbo. LOL some people are looking to keep as much weight as they can up front, even adding weight.

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I'm pretty sure you can delete the balancers.

You can delete them. You just have to split the case to do so. I had the opportunity to delete them when I was building the engine but lots of people said it made the bike feel really buzzy, also others said it didn't change a thing. I did't want to risk it and be unhappy with something only an engine removal and rebuild could fix.

I emailed Richard and he said none of the components should make noise. I'm gonna run gas through the fuel pump and see if maybe the exposed fuel pump lines are what I am hearing. The noise sounds pretty weird. I wish I could record the sound properly and post it here for recommendations.

When I bought this bike it only had one front brake. Old fluid, air in the lines, crappy track brake pads, brake pads soaked in fork oil, it really sucked to drive 300 miles back home. I almost hit my own car in it a handful of times despite a lot of distance and braking forethought (my buddy drove my car home for me). Made me appreciate the OEM brakes once I installed the other caliper, pads, lines, new fluid, etc

* Last updated by: danmin on 6/26/2025 @ 11:42 AM *

I did't want to risk it and be unhappy with something only an engine removal and rebuild could fix.

Good choice. The balancer delete is probably a better mod for a race only bike. IDT you need to worry about a few hp with the turbo. I might try the balancer delete on my Gen1 first if that engine is still good.

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June 27th, 2025

Hose day

(and second fuel plate from RBM cause i screwed up the first)

* Last updated by: danmin on 6/27/2025 @ 12:37 PM *

And here you go Rook. The easy way to build a Stage 1 bike-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBxpDsWHkHs&t=11s&ab_channel=ProvenPowerCycles

260 on pump gas and about $6500 worth of parts isnt too bad.

You got the brake lines I see. Kind of a necessary mod for coolness but like I said, makes no difference in braking performance. It's one I'd always do for the coolness factor though.

I watched the Proven power video and it brings up one important design aspect that wasn't changed with the Gen2. That bolt that fastens the fuel tank cover goes straight into the air box. You don't want to tighten that bolt too much because if you do, the well nut will split against the thin metal of the air box and then you need to go in there and press it out so the inside portion doesn't drop down an intake. I really like the the air box frame idea but they should have molded a closed bung into the air box for that screw. It's just really dumb to allow the possibility of drawing unfiltered air into the air box if that bolt ever falls out. I'm guessing that's one place you're loosing pressure with turbo even if the bolt is in.

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I had stainless on the front and back already. I changed swingarm length from +12-14" to +8" to +4", brake line in the back was hilariously long. Front lines had one line down to the right caliper then a short line to the left caliper. I decided to get two long lines to feed straight from the MC. Don't want to deal with big temp differences between calipers as well as potential for water and air accumulation thanks to the high point.

Not to mention that all my lines were different colors. Rear was red, front long was silver, front short was black. Also making the switch to Dot 5.1 while i'm in there

* Last updated by: danmin on 6/27/2025 @ 5:39 PM *

A heads up on the DOT5, it might leak. I've heard of that problem a few times with the stock brakes. Seeps out of the reservoir.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/27/2025 @ 6:37 PM *

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