Next battle is my stripped out front engine mount. The threads in the head are well cross threaded. Not sure how or when this happened. Disappointing to say the least. Ordered fresh bolts to try and salvage the remaining head threads with sharp new threads. And if that works- a healthy helping of permanent loctite to fill the gaps. Bolts arrive tomorrow (July 3rd).

Also been trying to iron out my idling issue. Bike doesn't like to start most of the time without throttle input. AFRs are 12-13. I am hoping this is just too rich. The zx14r idle is supposed to self-adjust one warmed- but this bike has been warmed and still doesn't work right. I tested ground continuity, idle air controller resistances, throttle position sensor voltages, the works. No problems. No improvement. Sometimes it'll idle for minutes. Sometimes for just a few seconds. Perhaps the ECU IS trying to fix the idle...

I am wondering if maybe the Microtech was seeing 1 PSI at idle or something and was spraying fuel, making the mix too rich. This would be an issue since I have had the side airbox plugs open and leaking. I am leaning most towards a fuel pressure issue. My gauge reads about 38 PSI when it needs to be 43PSI. Could be a bad reading. Could be the low pressure. I have a new gauge in the mail to verify.

If no improvement I will call Richard at RCC about the fuel pressure. The tuner should be able to adjust the idle air control with his Wollich Tuning Suite worst case-scenario.

* Last updated by: danmin on 7/2/2025 @ 10:41 AM *

July 2nd, 2025 (Normal Hours)

-Installed long term solution bolts for side of airbox holes. Don't appear to be leaking.
-Emailed Richard @ RCC about my idling issue.
-Cleaned bike.

Richard saw my email and just called me to suggest I adjust the throttle "stop" for the primary blades. I knew they weren't open enough to idle, I was just hoping fueling could be adjusted to remedy it. Especially since I had heard to never adjust that screw from factory without syncing throttle bodies and whatnot. Oh well. I adjusted it and it runs great. Fires right up. I wonder if thats why my bike didnt like to start before the build began... Couldve also been the zero-lash valves I found...

I didnt get a picture of the bike worthy to post up here, but it is all cleaned up. No more oil and grease smears in weird spots or clumps of dust settled on parts I havent touched since removing the fairings back in February.

I am thinking my bosch boost pressure gauge isnt working. stays at zero pretty much regardless of RPM. Might bite the bullet and get an AEM one to match my exisitng one.... 150 bones for the gauge. Yikes. Is there a beggars section of this forum?

Besides the gauge and my motor mounts. I dont really know what to do. The suspension is set to about where I want it (limited by oil pan). Its cleaned up. Runs great now. Front Sprocket cover is on. Chain riveted. Fluids bled. Fresh oil and filter. The works. I'll just sit in the garage and stare at it racking my mind on things to do. Thats usually how I end up in these scenarios anyways. Project cars or project bikes from boredom. Maybe I need to channel that more into my work. Meh.

I suppose its just about ride-able technically. I think I will still hold off for the tune. or else..

* Last updated by: danmin on 7/2/2025 @ 1:25 PM *

AFRs are 12-13. I am hoping this is just too rich.

Perhaps the ECU IS trying to fix the idle...

Maybe that's why my fuel injected C3 Corvette never ran good. I always set the target AFR to like 14.5 thinking that was the ideal AFRs for combustion. I sold the car after restoring it for 2 years and never getting it to drive right. I never claimed to be a tuner or know about that area of stuff haha. I'll remember to bounce questions off of you next time.

After adjusting the idle screw it starts and idles great. maybe a little more adjustment is needed- but it idles at about 1100 Rpm. And good call about the MAP sensor. Richard gives you a little device that you plug into the hose right before the map sensor. pretty nifty. i posted the instructions for the install on post #1 of this thread if you wanted to check those out and look for the MAP feed change. That section is at the very very end.

Today I'm going to work on the engine mounts and the fuel pump setup. My DIY fix causes the gauge to read correctly and about 2 minutes after turning the key on- it flashes empty. The stock fuel pump keeps track of the temp of the fuel in the tank. if the sensor is not submerged in fuel, it messes up the resistance reading and tells the ECU that there's no more fuel in the tank.

Adding a 1k ohm resistor instead of using the cylinder. We'll see how it works

* Last updated by: danmin on 7/3/2025 @ 10:39 AM *

I was trying to design the lower rad mount (since you are expected to delete it) to go around the turbo and connect to the original spot, so the rad and heat exchanger are supported and no vibrating against the turbine housing.... I noticed a big fat threaded hole in the core or whatever it's called of the turbo. Where the oiling happens and the shaft lives. It doesn't leak or smoke or anything out of the hole- but I don't know if I want any mud and water sitting in there over time. I'm going to look for a plug. especially because that hole sits directly behind the uncovered portion of the front wheel.

Additionally, has anyone ever messed with fender extenders? I am going to try installing one. I just don't want to mess up my carbon fiber zx10 fender drilling it for an extender that won't work.

I always set the target AFR to like 14.5 thinking that was the ideal AFRs for combustion.

I'll remember to bounce questions off of you next time.

Additionally, has anyone ever messed with fender extenders?

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/3/2025 @ 12:03 PM *

Rook: It extends the back of the fender to catch stuf that would get thrown upwards? I remember seeing those on ZX-14s back on the forum in o8. I believe they just had a self adhesive.

Yep, thats the idea. I'll do some searching for it.

Me: I was trying to design the lower rad mount (since you are expected to delete it) to go around the turbo and connect to the original spot, so the rad and heat exchanger are supported and no vibrating against the turbine housing.... I

I torched the lower bracket bracket idea. Too late to try it. Way too much stuff in the way.

Just took her to the gas station. Only needed a gallon or so, but now I know it wont fall apart if it hits a pothole, and it wont scrape the pan given the current suspension setup. First time it's left my house in 6 months. feels good.

List of check up items:
- pressure test cooling system (think I have a leak in my radiator
- fix leaky gas tank AN fittings
- figure out stripped engine mounts
- test boost gauge to see if its working (I dont think it is)
- chain slack
- Grease or clean the seat release mechanism... Doesnt latch good or at all sometimes
- Mount Idle Air Control Valve
- Adjust idle up just a little more

Finished Product items:
- get new gauge mount (brake fluid dissolved the last one)
- figure out why my gas tank is not sitting on the frame right
- research remote fuel pressure gauge
- cover/fill holes drilled in tiger tail
- Drill out side fairings to accept M10 size bolt
- Order a set of fairing bolts and rubber washers and rubber adhesive strips (I hate squeaky fairings)
- Install lights and fairings

They still got 'em but damn, they got expensive!

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/puig-front-fender-extender-kawasaki-ninja-zx14r-concours-14?sku_id=1174805

Or you can go with Ebay one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/226542754951?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=226542754951&targetid=2512152189032&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9017707&poi=&campaignid=21214286338&mkgroupid=161030074701&rlsatarget=pla-2512152189032&abcId=9407521&merchantid=6296724&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21214286338&gbraid=0AAAAAD_QDh86iB9PKdTiMldUJMRMF5pph&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1JjDBhDjARIsABlM2SuQHN5fM0qd4ecGHeTdEmoyB6zAnt46Ik4fOhM2cRNI9smJjgeOxuoaAkwfEALw_wcB

I know screws seem like the best way to attach it. I'd probably use somer kind of rubber washers with that and probably find a used fender. Keep the original for backup if the screws crack the fender. ...or just use heavy duty mounting tape. I've used light duty to mount wheel weights and it's very strong. I'm sure I lost a few wheel weights though. A larger surface area should stick very well. I heard the heavy duty mounting tape is incredibly strong. Never tried it because I always have wanted to remove stuff if ever needed.

Just took her to the gas station.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/3/2025 @ 1:16 PM *

Still having trouble starting and idling?

Nope. Idling and starting issue is 95% solved. Had to adjust the throttle plate stop screw on the left side of the throttle bodies. The throttle blades were closed too much at rest to let it idle.

I just need to adjust the screw another 1/4 or 1/2 turn in.

Looks like the Puig one is only $8 more when said and done with taxes and shipping. I'll order that one.

* Last updated by: danmin on 7/3/2025 @ 1:21 PM *

July 3rd, 2025

Wrapped up for the night.

- figured out stripped engine mounts
- tested boost gauge to see if its working
- chain slack checked
- Grease or clean the seat release mechanism... Used DuPont chain saver wax to grease it up.
- Mount Idle Air Control Valve
- Adjust idle up just a little more (it's at 1100 RPM on the dot (just about))

* Last updated by: danmin on 7/3/2025 @ 8:11 PM *

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS (2008-2015):

STAGE 1

STAGE 2

INTERCOOLER

Reworked Stage 1

ZX14 Build Sheet

Wrapped up a little document I have been working on. I've been collecting some info for each "Stage" of building the engine. Might help newbies understand the full picture better.

* Last updated by: danmin on 7/4/2025 @ 12:19 PM *

Thanks Dan. Does the Reworked Stage 1 include your edits to present information you felt was lacking in the original instructions?

Yeah. The reworked one isn't finished, frankly, but it helps cover the parts I felt weren't entirely clear. Not that they are plentiful for stage 1, but I think still doesn't hurt to know. I installed some things crooked or in the wrong order so I had to undo newly installed parts or really work hard to get a good angle on something.

Rook, PM'd the big man and got this thread pinned as well as yours. I'm sure it'll help out the next gen of turbo zx14 guys

That's awesome danmin! I was going to do the same but my thread isn't going anywhere for a while. I'll try to do yours justice when I go this rout. For now, I'm planning to put an order in at Brock's. Glad to just be out there riding the bike fully stock. I'm about to head out on favorite route right now. Gotta get her up on the scales soon for the stock weight and then start taking off parts.

LOL I'm seriously considering buying a used Gen2 so I can do all the same that you did. Damn, two Gen2s! We have a guy here who has three Gen1s though! I need a new one of those too!

Woah, 3 gen 1s is a lot. Nice to have the option to customize each one differently though. Ride safe.

Tuner backed out on me. Looking for another.

Woah, 3 gen 1s is a lot. Nice to have the option to customize each one differently though.

Actually it's one Gen2 and two 08 Midnight Sapphire Blue Gen1s. BigBS is the member who owns those plus a Hayabusa and maybe some others, IDK.

Tuner backed out on me. Looking for another.

There's gotta be a few of them in Texas. Look for one that specializes in ZX-14s. AFRs are probably somewhat different for turbo than those used for naturally aspirated bikes. The fueling will be used to make the best power but the cooling effect of the fuel might be a big consideration for turbo AFRs too. At this point, you might as well go for the best. ...otherwise, I'm sure Richard will sell you a secondary ECU. It's the quick and easy rout but I would prefer something that was adjustable like Dynojet or a flash. For general use, I think that secondary ECU will be the simplest, safest thing to use but if you really get into racing, you'll want to have control over all kinds of variables, geographic elevation, humidity, air temp, etc....everyone does that. I bet that secondary ECU is a big part of the reason for the large hike in price between the Stage Two and the Stage Two Deluxe. At this point, with all the money you've put in the bike, I'd just call Richard and buy one off him. ...but if you can find a highly reliable tuner in Texas or anywhere in the south central USA, go for it! A little trailer ride back and forth is part of the bigger journey.

I've got one of those secondary ECUs from Richard. That's the reason why my tuner backed out. I've only found 2 tuner in a 4-hour radius of me. BoometuneHQ in Houston (4.5 hours away) or another shop in Sherman (2 hours away). They've both tuned the MicroTech ECUs and multiple Turbo ZX14s.

If I had a power commander then I could get tuned almost anywhere. 99% of tuners won't touch Microtech.... In fact a lot of them have said it's outdated.. But I just need to keep AFRs in check for the turbo. I'm not scraping to get the fastest trap speed or anything like that.

Here's a picture of the ECU Richard Sent.

If the Microtech maintains a safe AFR, is there any big advantage to a tune?

The Microtech doesn't read AFR, just boost pressure. So it sees 10 PSI or whatever and fires the injectors at a certain frequency to provide enough fuel for the engine. I don't think it sees any RPM signal either, just boost pressure. So the tuner will curate the fueling at a given boost pressure to keep AFRs safe up top and down below. Microtech just blindly shoots injectors when it sees any boost pressure. I think they have modules to read AFR available from the manufacturer, but I don't know how they work or if they're compatible with this unit.

If the rpm is the cause of boost pressure and boost pressure is what determines the fueling requirements, I would think boost pressure is the main consideration. You should have a good idea if the MicroTech is producing safe AFRs since you have an AFR gauge on the bike. Of course, you need to know what AFR to shoot for because it may be different with turbo. It would be necessary to data log to see if the engine is ever running lean for a fraction of a second. You'd want to clean any little spots like that up by tuning. ....and most fuel maps have different AFRs in various zones of the table. That's performance related, best torque is rich, best hp is lean. ...so yeah, I can see how a good turbo tuner would be an improvement over the Microtech. The Microtech probably just keeps the AFR stable and safe at all TPs and RPM which is fine but there's better.

A PC5 is about $400 I think, haven't checked prices in a while. You can tune for boost pressure or AFR with that. I'd also consider what Woolich might offer for turbo tuning.

If the rpm is the cause of boost pressure and boost pressure is what determines the fueling requirements, I would think boost pressure is the main consideration. You should have a good idea if the MicroTech is producing safe AFRs since you have an AFR gauge on the bike.

Thats a good point.

Of course, you need to know what AFR to shoot for because it may be different with turbo

Richard instructs at the end of all kit instructions, regardless of the stage, to "Verify mapping on a dyno, ensuring air/fuel ratio under boost is 11.5:1 to 11.8:1." RIchard wants the bikes to run pretty rich under boost just to keep things safe. My AFR reads 12.5-13.5 when I rev it anywhere from idle to about 4k RPM. So I am a little lean.

Found a new tuner. 2.5 hours away. Going to drop the bike off Wednesday at 9am. Chris Huckseby at Back Alley Custom Cycles is tuning it. Seems pretty legit. He is in a number of motorcycle drag racing magazines on turbo bikes. I'll update when I can. Right now I am adding zip-ties to the injectors to keep the connectors from walking off as the bike runs.

* Last updated by: danmin on 7/7/2025 @ 9:39 PM *

The bike looks awesome, Dan. Looks like the fender extender might not fit between the radiator and the tire. I bet you could find an increased rake triple tree (cha-ching!). That would improve high speed stability and wheelbase and give you more space between the radiator and the fender. Otherwise, a plain old radiator guard. You'd have to adapt it to the intercooler heat exchanger.

Thanks Rook. I think the picture doesn't do the radiator and wheel fitment correctly. There's a pretty good angle curve to the radiator that allows for space between the wheel and rad.. I mostly just wanted the fender extender so the turbo stays clean.

The fender extender is arriving in the next few days... I guess we'll see if it fits.

I've been reading over everything and the only thing I don't remember doing or documenting was whether or not I added red loctite to the tiny screws of the billet intake plates. That's a required step... Richard says they WILL rattle out and fall into the engine eventually.

Now that the injector rail is installed it's a huge pain to remove the injector rail with the engine installed. And no way am I removing the engine again. I'm going to remove the BOV and top frame plates to see if I can remove one and inspect for thread locker. I'm really hoping I remembered to add it... We'll see if I get around to that today or after the dyno tune tomorrow. Inspecting the screws from below- they don't look red or blue from thread locker...

Update: Small bolts have not been coated in threadlocker.

* Last updated by: danmin on 7/8/2025 @ 3:20 PM *

I don't remember doing or documenting was whether or not I added red loctite to the tiny screws of the billet intake plates. That's a required step... Richard says they WILL rattle out and fall into the engine eventually....Inspecting the screws from below- they don't look red or blue from thread locker...

Is this the throttle valve plates? I hope that's all it is. Fuel rail or not, you better make sure those screws are secure. Don't be in a hurry. Spend a couple weeks if you need to and make sure you're not going to destroy your engine. I have much respect for you doing all this work in an extremely short amount of time. Just relax and go back over your work. Take the throttle bodies out if you need to. If it costs you 20 hours, you invested that in making sure this thing won't self destruct. It's worth it, as much as it sucks to have to do it.

IDK how you have the ability to not move your residence for this turbo project as big as the project is. I'm glad you do. Use your advantages and just get everything ironed out. Heck, I'm coming by here just about every day and you have something all new going on. Just be cool my bro and take your time.