KAK, take a step back, now take a deep breath. It's not that bad. I have an '06, one of the best bikes I've ever owned. Almost 16000 on the clock now and she purrs like a kitten. Yes, the cam chain rattles on first start up, all 14's do it but it doesn't mean anything. Mines done it since day one, quietens down after the oil change but comes back at about 1500 miles. Synthetic makes it worse but it's really no big deal and I'n no way hurts anything. It's just a characteristic of the machine. Ditto the left side valve cover leak. Mine mists on the left mid fairing and has done it for the last three years. I wipe it down with Simple Green every now and then. Yea it's a PITA but it's easy to fix with a couple of 10mm washers under the bolt heads. That's it, the bike has otherwise been near perfect and is one of my all time favorites.

* Last updated by: Kruz on 11/27/2011 @ 12:28 PM *

What clutch issue, the drag racers claim these clutches are almost bullet proof and some are running 230 to 240 HP at the back wheel?

KAK, I feel for ya on the clutch stiationm but that seems the only issue that is a mystery. Everything else is a simple fix.

Then I heard faint knocking for some time but it seems to have gone away?

https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=B4BD27CD-D56B-84E2-13FD8C4D6EF26B3E

the cam chain is making noise off and on and now the valve cover leak has come up.

M10 washers. $6/pack of 50, Lowe's.

Now I'm thinking about cancelling the trip. I have no idea how messy it might get during several hours and about 800 miles. If I do go, I'll have to keep on eye on it. Something that just shouldn't be.

No point in trying to snug down the cover bolts from what I've read here. Poor design.

The valve check is a hell of a job. I have been working on how tos and it has turned into a huge project in and of itself. Reall y not HARD, but it entails about 10 other jobs. Gonna put your bike OOC for a while. If you have kids a/o work a lot, ......huh- huhuh. hmmmmmmmmmm?

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/27/2011 @ 12:52 PM *

Hmmm...sorry Kak you're having second thoughts about your 14.It can happen.Disillusionment.I've experienced clutch issues...virtually the same as yours...but replacing the 'old' clutch perch/master corrected it.Okay....'shouldn't have to'...well...probably,but not worth getting rid of my bike for that.The cover leak....Pesky...yes....'kinda' disappointing...ya...but not worth gettin rid of a bike that has driven so well and given me so much back.I have explained the valve gasket fix here...EVERYONE who has done it has enjoyed seep free riding after the fix.It's not that big a deal to do it,and be done with it.I didn't get MY valves checked till 24,000+ miles...and they were virtually right at factory specs.Not sure you really need to do yours at 15K...but it's up to you.Cam Chain noise...I corrected mine with the manual tensioner from APE....easy deal...some people (here) make WAY too much outta some of these 'simple' fixes.I only speak of the stuff I've actually DONE..to MY bike.These 'mods' worked.Period.I think they will work for you as well.

The way the bike is put together..ya..can be a tad 'extreme' seeming at times...you know...ya just want to be able to NOT have to remove this or that to get to this or that,but....that's what it is.

The problems you've described...okay...not fun...BUT...you have 3 issues here that you want to be different.I say....get a NEW Kawasaki clutch perch/Master unit.Have a shop install it and bleed for ya.Second...relax,do the washer fix....it WILL stop your seeping.Third...get the manual tensioner from APE....Listen to what I tell you about installing it.Firgettabout the naysaying that goes on here.I've done it....and know what I'm talking about with this.No brag...just fact.I'd say...give these three things a go and I think your feeling about your rocketship will return to "hey...She's a friggin BLAST.....glad I kept her"....

Tapping noises can be a few things.They can come and go...depending on a lot of different conditions while riding.A knocking sound...that'd have me worried.A light occassional tapping...nah...I wouldn't be overly worried.Have you valves checked by a good mechanic if you're concerned.I rode mine very agressively....never had any 'bad' engine sounds....a slight tap a few times...had my valves checked like I said...all in spec.So...who knows what that was.You hear different things as you keep your bike over a period of time.I did anyway.None of the things I 'heard' caused any problems.She's gonna sound different in different temps and such.I will say...I ran concentrated Gumout Injector cleaner a few times during 51,000+ miles.I've no idea if that helped 'minimize' some of the 'noise' issues or whatever...but my plugs ALWAYS looked fine,until they reached the 'end' of their useful life.Also had a Muzzy 4 degree advance wheel on her.Maybe that helped ?IDK.

I was determined to do SOMETHING about that ugly cam chain noise...you know...I wasn't about to put up with something sounding THAT painful every startup.The APE tensioner worked like a charm.I NEVER had to readjust once in 51,000 miles.Despite what some people claim(here).Started quiet EVERYTIME....EVERYTIME.

My mechanic had my valves done in 1 and a half days(cause he had to have er overnight to check em cold).Easy peasy.NO drama.I knew the cover would 'probably' leak again after he installed it back on...and it did,and I washered it.No biggie.I'd already done it before.A bit of a 'hassle'...but...worth it for another 25,000 miles until the 'next' valve check.

To make his life easier,I removed ALL the bodywork I could so he didn't need to spend his time removing and reinstalling stuff.Wasn't that big of a deal...I'd removed the panels and such before...so...

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/27/2011 @ 1:18 PM *

checking the valves is not too much work. Adjusting them properly--- a-hem. prolly not too big a deal for a seasoned mech but then nothing is for those guys.

I was just gonna chime in one more time and say installing an APE would also fit very conveniently into doing the valve shim check/adjustment. Its all falling right into place...if you have the time, KAK.

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/27/2011 @ 1:31 PM *

I was gonna do my own valve check...yup.Got everything off to be able to do it...then...backed out.I just didn't trust doing the 'checking' having never done it before.It was okay...I didn't feel like I'd failed or anything.Just not something I wanted to 'chance' on an already great running motor.If a guy can confidently do that deal...that's awesome.Save a bunch of money for sure.

After the valve check...I listened carefully for any change in engine sounds.NONE....sounded exactly like it did before.Performance...the same.

I'll say again...engine heat and ambient temperature will have an effect on engine noise.And on shift quality as well.

I think I'll probably get slammed here for saying.."get a new clutch unit".IMO...there's something going wrong with your master/internals on it.You 'might' be able to repair the internals...and maybe not(they ARE rebuildable).I got tired of trying to figure out what the heck was happening with mine after I'd done all the procedures for bleeding and all.Got that new unit on there...voila!Never had another lever,clutch issue again.So IDK...it worked okay for me.Can't say about anyone else.Nothing wrong with replacing parts sometimes.That unit isn't THAT expensive.

Let me ask you one question here Kak...look at your slave cylinder there...the three bolts.IS THERE A BLACK PLASTIC SPACER in between the unit parts?And IS there any seepage of fluid under or around that spacer?Has that unit been removed from the case?Those spacers crack very easily if they're tightened too much...and they HAVE to be installed a certain way.Not just put in there and tightened down.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/27/2011 @ 1:59 PM *

ambient temperature will have an effect on engine noise.And on shift quality as well.

100% +1

."get a new clutch unit"

they HAVE to be installed a certain way

Apply nonpermanent locking agent to clutch slave cylinder screws. Remove C-clamp from clutch
slave cylinder. It is recommended that the plastic gasket be replaced. I reused mine. Around each screw hole in the gasket (if you removed it from the clutch slave cylinder), there is a slightly raised surface. The raised surfaces should point outward, toward the back of the clutch slave cylinder. The smooth side of the plastic gasket is installed against the edge of the sprocket cover hole. Tighten clutch slave cylinder with a 8mm socket.

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/27/2011 @ 2:20 PM *

Don't forget to have the longish tab going the correct direction and lining up with the correct bolt hole!One tab is LONGER than the other two(meaning,OD shape of the spacer..the tabs are all the same size otherwise).I think it goes on the 'bottom' part of the slave unit.Been a while since I did mine.You can see it in the manual diagram there.

Probably wouldn't even be noticed...but it's that way for a reason?I thought there was something wrong with it the first time I looked closely.Nope...it goes a certain way.

Ya...I reused mine as well...it eventually cracked.You know you've tightened too far when you hear that distinctive..."snap!" as you're tightening.OUCH!I bought two extra...just for that reason!They will crack without warning.A torque wrench would have come in nicely for these .

87 inch/lbs is what...about 6 ft/lbs?Something like that?That's just over finger tight...but I'm not sayin those bolts are 87 inch/lbs.Just sayin.Gotta be careful tightening those case bolts and all those in there.That case metal is pretty soft.They WILL strip before you can say..."oh shit...I KNEW I shoulda stopped"(No,I haven't stripped any out...but I've been darn close I know).

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/27/2011 @ 3:04 PM *

'89 GS ~ Had an output shaft seal leak. I could not fix the thing with the special tool, a new metal seal collar too. I forget if I sold it as is or had it fixed by the more skilled in that bike category; I gave up!

'9? GS ~ Had the gear box drained a lot. Could see brass each time I changed the oil. Kept seeing more each time. I said, no way am I going through this again. Sold it to anyone that showed up and obo'd me.

'06 ~ Had zero problems within that short 2K mule run.

'08 ~ Had the cam chain noise right after a dyno run > My fault, not the delicate tensioner system. Had a regular service interval and lost prime on a clutch master:
1. CCT-R; for cam chain tensioneRattle. The field fix idea is I had an idea on the cct. Took the one spring, wound it tighter around the ratchet plunger. That stopped the common/typical/some cct's will noise up on start up. Not mine. Thus begins the legendary, Bullet...
2... Proof, as in, "This side of..." Next, came the air in the clutch master. I know around here, some get LAP'Did [they], others get GAS'D (go and sit down)! That is when I dropped the ball, or more, dropped passed the bottom of the holes, did the lever catch air then. I then used the master's air bleed nipple and with one squeeze, the next was a waste, I should have stopped with one simple open/close, I had it on the one squeeze off. I lost that inch of freeplay. Hey, I was back to that 1/4 throw I know.
3. Recap my valve crap?; You mean, that is it? Yes, that is all I have to report as I snort; I've blown so many shifts, and I mean a good one the other day; I stab her up and down thinking this is it! Not one bit! She is in need of a sync but not really. The tune is off because this is about all that needs tuning on this thing... sans a valve inspect.

And for me to hear someone that caused the air pocket, can't get a lever back; Someone else shims a leak with a washer? Someone else removes a cover, I don't remember if that was reused or a new gasket(s) installed? Either way, someone has a leak/seep. And there has yet to be a bulletin out for anything other than, a tight bolt on a knock over switch, and a frame recall on a few and no others to report year after year.

HelLoooow? <<< I'm Dev Resivep and I whatever dis message.

* Last updated by: Hub on 11/27/2011 @ 4:00 PM *

I'm with ya HubMeister, most "problems" on these bikes are self inflicted.

I had A friend with a Kawasaki Vulcan cruiser, dropped the bike I'n the driveway and busted the clutch master cylinder. Called me after replacing it at wits end, couldn't get a hard lever after many attempts at bleeding so I told him to go pickup the beer and I'd be right over. Two minutes after I got there we leaned the bike over and she puked out a huge bubble, case closed, lever hard as a rock. KAK buddy, I don't know the whole story but sounds like you have a little trapped air somewhere.

"Two minutes after I got there we leaned the bike over and she puked out a huge bubble, case closed, lever hard as a rock".

I suggested this...worked with mine at least once.What do I know?I need to sit down now .

A gasket seep is NOT a mechanical problem in the sense of,say,a frame crack.I'm gonna guess...of the however many of the 14's were sold over the years....2/3rds of em had a valve cover seep.It would be FOOLISH and expensive for Kawasaki to call..."recall" on something so easily corrected.I'm sorry,but they're just not gonna do that for something as minimal as this.It doesn't harm anything.It won't cause an engine failure.MAYBE on a LONG SHOT it could cause a fire...MAYBE.But I've heard of NO 14's catching fire yet.This thing is so commonplace that they would go NUTSO trying to replace this deal everytime someone cried "FOUL".They're NOT going to admit that something is 'just not quite right' when they know guys will take care of it on their own(meaning...buying a NEW 60 dollar gasket and installing at the Kawasaki dealer...add labor onto that at 70+ bucks an hour) .That's MY take on this whole gasket thing.Some get it...some don't.IF you were within warranty...yeah...they'd cover it.But MOST of these seeps don't begin till the gasket has had MANY MANY heat cycles.When new...it wouldn't be expected to be heat affected...they DON'T leak.Not that I've ever heard anyway.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/28/2011 @ 12:54 AM *

my 08 has now covered 28000 miles, had the cam cover off 4 times now, on the 3 time got the dreaded weep, off again a smear of form-a-gasket on the front no leaky, happy bunny, fitted an ape tensioner no rattle, LSL bar conversion, no pump up, seat re-profiles, no sore but, front forks re-sprung and re-valved, rear shock changed for a wilber unit set to 368lbs ( we ride 2 up all of the time ) taken me 3 yrs to get it the way I want it, change it, no way, I love the bloody thing
B-A

* Last updated by: battleaxe on 11/28/2011 @ 5:45 AM *

sorry to hear of your troubles KAK!
i went out for a 150mile spin yesterday on twisty bumpy back roads and fell in love with the big zx all over again!
i also have a multistrada and regularly ride fireblades, R1s, KTMs and beemers!
its an 07, ive done just under 50,000miles on 3 continents from sub zero temp to over 40c, floods to desert conditions and i can say its been bulletproof!
my rocker cover has been off at least 3 times but im very careful putting it back together using gasket sealant, never did anything about the startup rattle, just accept it!
having looked at the new model, im not even tempted to change as i dont think its dynamically different enough! and as ive had alot of adventures with this bike so far, i cant see myself selling it on ( and the fact that with high mileage it wont be worth much anyway! :)

also in my experience, every bike (read machine) has some niggles but nearly all can be sorted, but occasionally you just get a bad one!
best of luck

KAK, wipe the leak at the cover/rubber/head. Take it for a ride. Go top the tank off before you come home. Maybe 30? 15 miles out, 15 back? Now, go look at that seep. It either is making a big ball of drip, or you don't see it = Seep. And seep says run the 800 mile loop. Bullet is not going to do anything funny is a seep.

A leak on the other hand, we come back, we find a paper towel wipe with a heavy load of it, not some 1/4 of a tear drop, then we start in with a seep again. And see how it would be a waste to remove the whole brake assembly, point the brake master up somehow, that all the bubbles go up the line?

And since that banjo is on the bottom, that too would be a waste at that L type bend. For what it's worth again, I'd probably open the little nipple up top again and do nothing but watch the fluid come out. The rez is above the master with that oil cap on. If I removed the cap first, no vacuum, I could then see the level can drop and push the air up and out of that nip. I doubt it will be sucked in? Not with the rez about to have that weight down in that tube. It should fill as you go, and with an open line? Gravity does its thing pretty well you leave it alone = Siphon effect.

I didn't catch all your woes you were experiencing but sounded like most were same things each one of us has had to endure while owning the bike, it's just not what you envisioned having to deal with. Yes my valve covers leaked. Yes, my hydraulic lines were a bitch more than any vehicle I have owned yet. Yes, when I did a valve job it was a pain, but who ever wants to have to do stuff like that ITFP? I don't think anyone has figured out how to make a 'perfect' bike in every respect. Perfection is a universal impossibility. Yet you can believe you have the perfect bike if you want. But there are plenty of other bikes out there. Try something different and you may just realize you never knew what you had till it was gone type o'thing. Well, that was my experience.
On the other hand, it kinda sounds like your not used to the 'Kawasaki' fit and finish thing. I know I still have hesitations when thinking about what I'll buy next. But then again most every bike I've owned up till the 14 was an old wreck and constant source of agony, so I really don't have a good reference point. The Yamaha I had held together better and for the punishment I gave then, so did the Hondas I've owned. By 'GS' I imagine you are talking Beemer not Suzuki. I have the Suzuki so I know if you were talking Suzy these things would not be bothering you. A Beemer type might complain more about a Kawasaki I'd imagine. I do know it kinda defeats the purpose if you hate your bike.

It would be FOOLISH and expensive for Kawasaki to call..."recall" on something so easily corrected.

It either is making a big ball of drip, or you don't see it = Seep. And seep says run the 800 mile loop. Bullet is not going to do anything funny is a seep.

I have the Suzuki so I know if you were talking Suzy these things would not be bothering you.

You wouldn't need oil leaks because there is enough that gets spilled doing oil changes. lol JK love my busa like I love my 14.

I think 'we' got off track here with our 'solutions'.I know we're trying to help...but it's becoming more and more convoluted IMO.

Kak's not too concerned about the gasket thing.He wants his clutch to work okay.THAT's what he's concerned about.His trip.Will the bike do okay.

The gasket seep is just that.A seep.THAT in itself is common with Kawasakis...zx12s'...on up to the 14.It's not something 'only 14'.THAT will not ruin a trip.It's not pouring oil...or losing it so bad that he needs to bring oil with him.He can easily correct it with a couple of washers and an hour's time.No biggie.

His clutch on the other hand...he wants it back the way it was.I don't blame him.I tried riding with an iffy feeling lever as well...no go.It just wasn't fun wondering about it.So I bought a new unit...had the shop install it.They bled it.It worked great after that.Shit happens.Parts fail.The 14 may be 'bulletproof'....but like Edge said...she aint perfect.I get Kak's frustration.I'd feel the same...have in fact.Something fails....you either fix it,or get depressed over it.Or whatever.He's tried everything with this lever thing.It could be several things.Or only ONE.

He can do a couple of things...or none at all...Kak..you can take your bike to the mechanic...have him bleed the system completely.Watch him if ya want.See what he's doing for future reference.OR....keep messing with it and do some more acrobatics 'trying' to get it right.OR....buy a new unit....and have it installed and bled for ya.Personally,I'd do the latter.It aint no 'shame' to just get it done,and be DONE with it.These clutch systems CAN be a royal pain sometimes.They can.I know.So do these other guys.The lever feel you're describing leads me to think that the internals are worn...something is blocking that return hole in there.That's what it sounds like to me.You get full lever feel after a few moments of using it.So it sounds like the fluid is being partially blocked from returning.The fluid isn't moving much...but it does move in the line.If it starts to build up back pressure,it's not gonna work right.

My(replacement) unit had a factory flaw in it...one that I replaced anyway...they machined the return hole incorrectly.All the bleeding and such in the world wasn't gonna correct it.Rebuilding it wasn't gonna correct it.What's different with yours is...you did have full lever feel at one time.So SOMETHING has changed that wasn't there before.What could that be?....rubber parts...or wear on something inside.It happens.If you read the SM...about clutch lever removal and the master thing,you'll see that they DO talk about the fluid return holes in there...about having them 'blocked'.It happens.Probably has happened with yours.IDK.I'd go the easy route and get some peace of mind about it and just buy a new unit.Long as you've covered all the bases here that we've suggested,and ya feel good(okay..not exactly good ) about replacing it...I would if it were mine.In fact...I did!

The clutch bleed deal can go really well...or terribly wrong.It can.I've had it both ways.You learn as ya go what works and what doesn't...that is...IF you intend on wrenching on your bike.I haven't gotten myself into something YET that I had to have the dealer fix for me...that I messed up.Not yet.But stuff happens.The bike is an awesome machine...badazz...but it does have some quirky deals inherent in it.I wouldn't concentrate so much on 'what's wrong'....I mean...what IS wrong is fixable.Your bike is a screamer.Worth keeping I think.

That noisy cam chain is VERY fixable.VERY.Some here have corrected it.I did for one.EASY.Problem free.Took all of about 30 minutes.NO DRAMA.

I think I know how ya feel...you want to be able to trust your bike.You can.These deals you're talking about are NOT gonna cause your bike to suddenly drop dead.Get em fixed...and ride worry free.These deals you have are common with this bike....so I wouldn't be thinkin "I got a friggin loser"...nope...you didn't.You fix these few deals here...you won't have to keep repairing your bike.You'll see.You CAN feel good about the 14.I would have NEVER hesitated to ride mine coast to coast and everywhere in between.And she suffered every deal that you're describing here.And I fixed every deal that you're describing here...with no ongoing problems.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/28/2011 @ 1:58 PM *

Your bumming me out with all of this my bike sucks BS! Man up fix it and have fun and if you lived down here I would help you fix it but you don’t!

Het, i was thinking the same thing today. i could help take care of all of your bike woes. You whole bike doesn't suck. Just the clutch. There has got to be some way to fix that.

BTW, KAK, where are you? You out there reading all of this outpouring of support?

Right. Not many places I can think of where you can make a statement and walk away and still get 22 replies trying to guide you. But then maybe we are just that bored? I dunno.

Hey Boobs, my last video said, 'you know how bored I am?' and then pee seed did to jerk the air cleaner out and turtle it... I'm so bored.

Kak- This is the best bike I have ever owned... Yes there are only 500 miles on the clock at this point (lol not bad for 4 days of ownership considering 1 of them it was at the dealer for a good portion of the day and the rest was spent wrenching). It feels very similar to the old 14 but totally different.... Yes it sounds wacked but the seat & suspension are so much better, kind of a cross between a gold wing seat on a nimble 600 chassis. Power has the good old smack you in the face and wake up or die like the old 14, but SMOOTHER. 1st gear is noticeably lower ( I had a 16T on the old 14 and it feels equal to that, and 2nd has that arm stretching acceleration).