Like I mentioned above-you want to tighten the bolts to just where you see the gasket seal "beginning" to slightly deform from being squeezed.Stop at that point,front and back(under the rubber skirt on the rear one).Gasket seal should look slightly wavy as it runs along the front bolt side,along the outside edge,and back around the rear corner of the valve cover.You don't want to overdo it.Even if it's not at the torque spec while tightening the bolt(s)-I'd stop.I also put some red(!)locktite on the bolt tips (after cleaning them off),then installed.It'll take a few hours to get the residual oil out from the gasket-so just check it and wipe away any oil around the area.The test is when ya start er up and give er a run.You'll get some more oil most likely,a small amount,but it should completely stop by the next ride.Wipe that whole area clean at first-the valve cover top,sides,and rear behind the engine there.Any extra is gonna flow down to the seal area after it gets hot, and sitting on the sidestand.It may have blown up under the stick coil rubber cover-clean all that off really well.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 1/13/2010 @ 4:10 PM *

Well, it would appear that I had a defective bolt on the back. It snapped off about 1/8" down the thread. One would think I had over-torqued it, but I hadn't tightened it as much as the front one (hell I had my torque wrench set at 5 ft pounds - factory torque is 7.25 ft pounds). I was watching the gasket and it was fine back there, and had not started to get wavy. The bolt obviously could not bottom out with the 2 extra washers on it, so I was fortunate because of that, I was able to turn the broken piece out of the hole using a metal scribe to catch on the uneven parts.

Once I had it to the point where it was almost out, I turned it out the rest of the way using a pair of hemostats.
I then removed the front bolt and new washers and put that bolt into the back hole so that I could make sure that the threads were good in the bolt hole - they were fine.

So none of the stealerships within 60 miles have the bolt in stock, and neither do any of the online retailers. So I ended up ordering 2 bolts (keeping a spare in case) from Bike Bandit, since everyone I could order from is going to have to order it from Kawa or from World of Powersports (who don't have them in stock either).

I found out the scribe trick from a friend of mine who has Connies. I called him to ask him if he had any ez-outs, and he said the same thing happened to him years ago with one of the valve cover bolts on one of his Connies.

So for anyone else who does this job, watch out for a crappy snappy valve cover bolt.

And thanks yet again Blue, for all the info. And since I do just happen to have some red Loctite on hand, I will do as you suggested.

* Last updated by: Rhavin on 1/13/2010 @ 5:28 PM *

And since I do just happen to have some red Loctite on hand, I will do as you suggested.

Is the heat of the engine sufficient to soften red locktight enough if you ever have to remove the bolts or tighten them?

Geez Rhavin-what luck eh?Glad ya got that bolt out okay.If I didn't have factory bolts,I'd just go and get me a good match looks-wise and fitwise,and bolt er up.Hardware store surely has one just like the stocker I would think.That's where I got my 3" allens for the heli-risers and genmars.Worked fine-looked stock.And Rook-that red locktite will come loose on that bolt when ya go to loosen,but I wouldn't go crazy when ya put it on there-just a dab.The frame fittings have the redlocktite on em-the subframe at the engine area.They came loose.(at least mine did).I don't "trust" the blue threadlocker on too many vibrating parts on my bike-don't want to experience a high speed failure from something coming off and hittin the rear tire!The red will break free okay-and a good rap with a ball peen hammer on the tool will bust the seal everytime.(for those stubborn ones!)5-7 ft/lbs is virtually finger tight-a bit more(or is it in/lbs?).Anyway-it's not real tight on there.(I know-it's more than finger tight-but not by a lot).

* Last updated by: blue07 on 1/14/2010 @ 12:42 AM *

Yes, it was one of those days yesterday

Red Loctite can be a pain to get loose on some parts. There is red on my Jeep's brake system and when I went to take the rotors off...let's just say that a lot of cussing ensued. It took a 4 pound hammer beating on the wrench to get those suckers loose. But those were big bolts with lots of Loctite on them, so I don't think it will be a problem with just a dab on the bike.

I didn't think to take a look for bolts at the hardware store, but then again the closest to me is a Lowes and I am not confident that they would have similar bolts.

Ya Rhavin-Lowe's will most likely have some.That is really weird about that bolt snapping.Do you think it was already broken in there when they installed it?That sounds strangely odd that they could tighten it down to spec,only to snap it in there?Weird-never heard of such a thing(I mean,they aren't THAT tight(are they?)Mine weren't.But I'll sure be careful if I need to get that cover off again.Thank GOD ya got er backed out.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 1/14/2010 @ 11:46 AM *

Hey Blue,

Sorry I have not replied sooner, it's been a bit hectic with work lately and I just haven't logged on here.
I don't know what was up with that bolt, other than maybe bum materials. I got the 2 new bolts from BikeBandit. I got the bolt in, so gtg with that. I decided to remove the flies as well since I was dickin' around on the bike anyway.

After I have checked/lubed my chain, and whenever the weather warms up a bit, I will take a test ride around the neighborhood and see how the it goes with the valve cover leak.

Don't be discouraged if it seeps just a tad at first.That'll disappear after a couple of runs-if not,just tighten those bolts down a bit more.It'll stop.

Thanks Blue. Still a bit chilly to take her out for a spin though, and there is a +- 6ft x 15ft slab of ice on the street in front of my driveway that I don't care to play with :)

I had the same problem on my 07 the left side was loose compared to the right side so i tightend the crap out of the left side and so far so good! but sounds like the washers will do the trick if it shows up again thanks guys!

had this fixed twice when I had a zx14 I said screw it cleaned it up and put the bike on stands and it stopped leaking. LOL true story . Before my buddy wrecked his 08 he had the same issue and fixed it the same way.LOL

I need to get this done quick, that burnt oil stink is driving me nuts and I'm getting oil mist all over the left side fairing. Makes me feel like I'm riding an old beater. LOL! You need 12 each M10 washers to do the cover fix right? Any particulal thickness? I figured I'd get a batch at Ace hardware, they stock metric fasteners.

* Last updated by: Kruz on 3/18/2010 @ 2:17 PM *

Kruz, The new valve cover seal may have a new design and being new and thick, will squeeze enough, you do not have to re-engineer the top cover with 10 coins from the fountain, hoping that fixes the leak. Mine is even 'sweat free' after 11k hard crankcase air pushing miles.

11,000?You're just breakin er in Bro-yer leak's just on up ahead there!Give er a few more miles-then you can be "one o' the guys"!! (only the two left outboard bolts Kruz-not the whole cover).BTW-I replaced mine with an 09 gasket-no worky-same deal.Still leaked.Washers did the trick.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 3/18/2010 @ 4:36 PM *

I checked mine and it has a slight leak on the left side to. Will they cover this under the ext warranty? The bike only has 8200 miles on it.

Does anyone know if any service manual-type info exists for which parts should have blue and which should have red loctite? Also, for this particular gasket leak issue, are only certain year models affected or is it mileage-relevant or just random?

Well it's about time to fix mine as well now that riding season is ramp'n up. Last fall she started leaking more & smoked once on start-up along with a little oil residue on the left mid-fairing. Anyway, I am wondering about washer thickness as well? (Thinking out loud)...It sounds like people are doing it different ways. Some use one washer under each of the 6 bolts, some two washers under each of the 6 bolts and some two washers under just the left side two bolts ("Blue's" method). Maybe it doesn't matter as long as you get something under there! I am debating on going the easy way and trying one "thick" washer under each bolt on the left side (only) and torque to specs. OR...I know Blue says two washers each under the two left bolts should do the job. But how thick are the washers Blue?

Below is a pic from "3000 psi and falling" (Bikeland) link HERE. He went with one washer under each bolt & torque to specs. Removing/installing one at a time. All seems OK.

Sorry if I am rambling & over-analyzing. I want to make sure it is done right the first time! What am I saying? Don’t know which way to go yet!

3/8ths M10 stainless is what I used Cool.Just the two outboard left bolts.No reason you couldn't use ONE each,long as it's at least as thick as "two"smaller ones together.Personally-trying to do all the bolts seemed like a huge hassle.The right side was perfect-all along the seal to the last area of the left side there.Guess ya could do em all-but if loosening that gasket up by removing those right side/middle bolts creates another leak point-geez-then ya gotta do it all again?Looks to be about the same thickness as two washers to me.In retrospect-WilliD did have a "temporary" solution.Parked his bike on the rear stand always-no more leak.That doesn't actually fix the problem though.I think if it's starting to come out,just a matter of time before you really need to do something.And I don't think it's being caused by engine pressure either.ALL the reported leaks are on the same area.Kickstand side only.I think it's just a design flaw in the bolt/thread depth(or).......A LOT of mechanics are replacing gaskets for customers-it's a fairly common deal with the 14 IMO.So it's actually quite the little money maker-without having to go crazy tearing down the motor or something-think Kawi "knew" about this at production time?Makes one wonder.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 3/26/2010 @ 6:15 PM *

I stopped mine by the dealer and they are going to fix it under warranty. He said there is an issue on certain bikes to where the dowels are to long too and they keep the gasket from compressing, he had never heard of the bolts being to long or the hole being to shallow.

Thanks Blue! Now to get some motivation and pull off the Tupperware. I will try it one bolt at a time, left side only. I will check out my local hardware store for the stainless 3/8" M10 washers. I now understand that 3/8 is the inch conversion for the inner-diameter which is one and the same = 10 millimeters. As far as thickness...will have to see what the local hardware store has and play it by ear.

Agree, "WilliDs" temporary solution is just that. To note, my bike is ALWAYS parked on the center stand. A rear stand or center stand is only going to slow it down. It's only a matter of time and the leak will get worse.

Yes, it does seem like this affects the majority of zx14 owners (as the miles add up). Last year, I looked at about 5 ZX-14s ('06-'07) at a local bike night and noticed ALL had the leak. Most of the owners were not even aware of the problem. Now it appears '08 and even '09s are starting to leak as well. Funny Kawi hasn't fixed this common defect. Great machine other than that and the noisy auto-cam-chain tension start-up issue.

* Last updated by: CoolWhip on 3/27/2010 @ 2:21 PM *

I'd suggest doing BOTH front and back bolts there Cool-just so the pressure is more even.Only takes a couple of minutes more-you don't want the rear to start leaking cause the front's tightened down!I think that valve cover has the possibility of flexing with uneven tightening.It's quite light actually.Pretty sure my rear one was also leaking,though it is possible it was blowback along the seal.I didn't take any chances-you can only enjoy removing the bodywork so many times!Bike night..."I noticed ALL"...yep,I'm thinkin the same thing.I'm just about convinced that sooner or later-every 14 is gonna start seepin from that left side.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 3/27/2010 @ 10:32 PM *

Blue, by "Both" front and back. I think you mean to REMOVE BOTH bolts at the same time on the left bank & put washers on each bolt? --Then, I will "step torque" each one going back and forth on each bolt. Looking at the book (I actually did something ) it says only 87 inch pounds = 7.25 lbs of torque. Wow...that's not much. I can see how important it is not to strip these. Still not motivated to do this (yet). Hopefully later in the week.

* Last updated by: CoolWhip on 3/28/2010 @ 3:59 PM *

Ya Cool..I wouldn't do one,tighten down,then do the other.Sequential tightening...that's how I would(and did) do it.And I didn't torque to book specs either,cause now you'll have a different circumstance with the "crush" ability from the washer.I could be over on the specs,or under-IDK.I just eyeballed the seal and when it looked snug and sealing,I stopped(the bolt was not stopped to it's limit,but snugged real good).It began to deform slightly from the squeeze,and kinda flatten outwards a tad.I did put red loctite on the bolt tips,but not much-just a dot or so on those threads.I know it won't loctite em in there so they can't be safely removed cause I had to do it twice-the second time after my mechanic installed a brand new gasket after checking the valves.That one leaked as well-same place.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 3/29/2010 @ 12:24 AM *

Ace hardware has the M10 stainless washers, I'm going to pickup a batch and get er done.

I dropped mine off at the dealer yesterday to get it replaced.